Modeling of the propagation of transient waves of moderate steepness

A theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A semi-analytical solution was derived by applying an eigenfunction expansion method. The solution is applied to analyze the effect of wave frequencies and wave steepness on the propagation of nonlinear waves. The main attention is paid to the wave profile, the wave energy spectrum, and the changes of wave profile and energy spectrum due to the interaction of wave components in a wave train. The results show that for waves of low steepness the nonlinear wave effects and effects associated with the interaction of water waves in a wave train are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves the effects associated with the interactions between waves in a wave train are becoming significant and a train of initially sinusoidal waves may drastically change its form within a short distance from its original position. The evolution of wave components has substantial effects on the wave spectrum. A train of initially very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short period of time. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical approaches. The free-surface elevation recorded by a system of wave gauges was compared with the results provided by the semi-analytical solution. Theoretical results are in a fairly good agreement with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed often even for relatively steep waves.     

Nonlinear wave profiles of wave–wave interaction in a finite water depth by fixed point approach

In this paper, a superposition of two periodic wave profiles in a finite water depth was investigated. This paper is focused on the improvement of a wave profile on the linear superposition of two waves. This improvement was realized by introducing an iterative method, which was based on a fixed point approach. Application of the fixed point approach to the wave superposition made it possible to obtain a wave profile of wave–wave interaction. The improved result of the wave profile was in good agreement with that of the nonlinear perturbation solution of the second order. It was interesting that the improved result revealed the higher-order nonlinear frequencies for two interacting Stokes waves while Dalzell's solution by a perturbation method could not predict them.     

A nonlinear wave profile correction of the diffraction of a wave by a long breakwater: Fixed point approach

The authors of the present paper have suggested an iterative scheme to calculate the nonlinear wave profiles [Jang and Kwon, 2005. Application of nonlinear iteration scheme to the nonlinear water wave problem: Stokes wave. Ocean Engineering 32, 1862–1872]. The scheme was shown to be good for estimating nonlinear wave profiles. In the study, the iterative scheme is applied to the wave-diffraction problem by a long breakwater to calculate a diffracted wave by the breakwater. The iterative solution of diffraction was compared with the linear solution of Sommerfeld, 1896. [Mathematische Theoried der Diffraction. Mathematical Annals 47, 317–374]. For a small wave slope, the two solutions were in good agreement. However, the scheme enabled us to observe the nonlinear behaviors of a beating phenomenon and of wave profile such as Stokes’ wave for a relatively large wave slope: as the wave slope becomes larger, we can examine the nonlinear wave characteristics of the actual shapes of waves, i.e., the crests are steeper and the troughs are flatter.     

NONLINEAR INTERACTIONS AMONG GRAVITY SURFACE WAVES

Based on the perturbation method, a fourth order theory for nonlinear interactions among three dimensional gravity waves in water of any uniform depth is presented in this paper. Two cases are considered: ( i ) wave number vectors fixed, frequencies perturbed, and ( ii ) wave number vectors and frequencies both fixed. According to this solution, expressions of thesame order for progressive waves, short-crested waves and nonlinear interaction between wave and vertical wall are also derived'     

三维完全非线性波浪水槽的数值模拟

用有限元求解拉普拉斯方程,建立了三维完全非线性数值波浪水槽.跟踪流体自由表面的方法为满足完全非线性自由表面条件的半拉格朗日法,对离散单元采用20节点的六面体二次等参数单元.并把数值计算结果与水面初始升高产生箱体内流体运动解析解和二阶斯托克斯波理论解进行了对比,结果表明该模型是稳定的、守恒的,能精确模拟非线性波浪的产生和传播.     

A locally nonlinear interpretation of PUV measurements

A time domain method is presented for analyzing simultaneous measurements of pressure and the horizontal components of velocity obtained beneath irregular multidirectional wave fields. This new method differs from the usual linear directional analyses applied to PUV data in two important aspects. First, the essential nonlinearity of the measured waves is not sacrificed to achieve a solution. Therefore, predictions of sea surface elevation and directional kinematics throughout the water column accurately portray the actual nonlinear character of the waves. Second, the analysis method is `local' in that it can be applied to segments of PUV time series much shorter than an individual wave. The viability of the locally nonlinear methodology developed in this paper is proven by demonstrating agreement with higher-order theoretical steady waves. Predictions of sea surface elevation and wave kinematics are also made using actual measurements from PUV instruments at two ocean sites off the west coast of the United States.     

Second-order theory for coupling 2D numerical and physical wave tanks: Derivation,evaluation and experimental validation

A full second-order theory for coupling numerical and physical wave tanks is presented. The ad hoc unified wave generation approach developed by Zhang et al. [Zhang, H., Schäffer, H.A., Jakobsen, K.P., 2007. Deterministic combination of numerical and physical coastal wave models. Coast. Eng. 54, 171–186] is extended to include the second-order dispersive correction. The new formulation is presented in a unified form that includes both progressive and evanescent modes and covers wavemaker configurations of the piston- and flap-type. The second order paddle stroke correction allows for improved nonlinear wave generation in the physical wave tank based on target numerical solutions. The performance and efficiency of the new model is first evaluated theoretically based on second order Stokes waves. Due to the complexity of the problem, the proposed method has been truncated at 2D and the treatment of regular waves, and the re-reflection control on the wave paddle is also not included. In order to validate the solution methodology further, a series of nonlinear, periodic waves based on stream function theory are generated in a physical wave tank using a piston-type wavemaker. These experiments show that the new second-order coupling theory provides an improvement in the quality of nonlinear wave generation when compared to existing techniques.     

非线性弱色散波内部流场的重构

基于势流理论和级数直接求逆方法,本文建立了基于Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程或Ｇｒｅｅｎ－Ｎａｇｈｄｉ方程给出的水深平均流速或某特征流速及波面信息重构非线性弱色散波内部流场的算法。以Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的孤立波解为例,用本反演方法计算了孤立波的表面水平流速及底部水平流速。结果表明本算法是有效的。本反演算法可用于获取非线性弱色散波的内部流场的详细信息。     

潜堤后高阶自由谐波的研究

基于高阶边界元方法的完全非线性数值水槽模型模拟潜堤地形上波浪的传播变形,通过与实验值进行比较,考察数学模型的正确性.采用两点法分离得到堤后高倍频自由波来研究入射波参数、水深对堤后高倍频自由波的影响.研究发现:基频波、二阶和三阶自由波幅值分别与入射波波幅成线性、二次和三次函数关系,基频波幅值基本不随波浪周期变化,而二阶和...     

Generating–absorbing sponge layers for phase-resolving wave models

The accurate generation and absorption of water waves in phase-resolving models are critical issues in representing nearshore processes. Here, we present a source function method for combined wave generation and absorption using modified sponge layers. This technique can be easily adapted to a wide variety of systems, and does not require the solution of Green's functions but rather the simpler knowledge of solutions for free waves. These solutions may be linear or nonlinear, regular or irregular, and generated waves can be made arbitrarily accurate through simple selection of sponge layer coefficients. Generating–absorbing sponge layer systems are shown to have a close correspondence to relaxation zones for wave generation if relaxation coefficients are chosen appropriately.     

Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory

In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height.     

A coupled-mode system with application to nonlinear water waves propagating in finite water depth and in variable bathymetry regions

A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations is presented, modelling the evolution of nonlinear water waves in finite depth over a general bottom topography. The vertical structure of the wave field is represented by means of a local-mode series expansion of the wave potential. This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional terms, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The present coupled-mode system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion, and the local-mode series exhibits fast convergence. Thus, a small number of modes (up to 5–6) are usually enough for precise numerical solution. In the present work, the coupled-mode system is applied to the numerical investigation of families of steady travelling wave solutions in constant depth, corresponding to a wide range of water depths, ranging from intermediate depth to shallow-water wave conditions, and its results are compared vs. Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, as well as with fully nonlinear Fourier methods. Furthermore, numerical results are presented for waves propagating over variable bathymetry regions and compared with nonlinear methods based on boundary integral formulation and experimental data, showing good agreement.     

Modeling of propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current

A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.     

Numerical study of nonlinear freak wave impact underneath a fixed horizontal deck in 2-D space

Freak waves are extreme and unexpected surface waves with huge wave heights that may lead to severe damage to ships and offshore structures. However, few researches have been conducted to investigate the impact underneath fixed horizontal decks caused by freak waves. To study these phenomena, a 2-D numerical wave tank is built in which nonlinear freak waves based on the Peregrine breather solution are generated. As a validation, a regular-wave-induced underneath impact is simulated and compared to the existing experimental measurements. Then the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact is investigate with different values of deck clearance above the mean free surface. In addition, a comparative simulation of a “large” regular wave based on the 2nd-order Stokes wave theory with the same crest height and wave length of the nonlinear freak wave is carried out to reveal the unique features of the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact. By applying a fluid–structure interaction (FSI) algorithm in which the bottom deck and front side wall are simplified as Euler beams in 2-D and discretized by the finite element method (FEM), the hydroelastic effects are considered during the impact event. The vertical force acting underneath the bottom deck, the transversal force acting on the front side wall, the structural displacements of the elastic deck and wall are analyzed and discussed respectively, from which meaningful conclusions are drawn.     

Gerris在海洋大振幅内孤立波数值模拟中的应用

本文运用基于自适应网格的流体动力学开源软件Gerris,来建立基于Boussinesq近似下的二维不可压缩Euler方程组的数值模型,以模拟不同层化条件下稳定状态的完全非线性大振幅内孤立波。文中比较了完全非线性的用Gerris实现的Euler模型与弱非线性的KdV理论模型在刻画大振幅内孤立波结构及特征参数上的差异,说明在模拟大振幅内孤立波时,高阶非线性不应忽略。Euler模型模拟结果表明,完全非线性大振幅内孤立波的等密度面半宽度随深度变化,这使得基于KdV方程解析解、利用卫星SAR(Synthetic Aperture Radar)图像提取内孤立波极值间距来反演内波振幅的可行性存疑,需要重新评估。此外,本文用两组实测数据验证了用Gerris实现的Euler模型模拟大振幅内波的有效性。     

Generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume

A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.     

PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅰ. A SOLUTION FOR NON-LINEAR PROGRESSING WAVES

Two-dimensional non-linear hydrodynamical equations are solved by using perturbation method and treating slopping beaches as bottom boundary conditions so that a kind of solution for nonlinear progressing waves is obtained. The first order of approximation is the same potential function as used by Biesel, and the second order is calculated numerically. Based on the solution, wave characteristics before breaking, especially the wave set-down, are discussed. It turns out that for the whole course of waves propagating from deep to shallow waters the theory proposed in this paper has a wider valid range of application than others.     

Second-Oorder Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a constant plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special case of slope angle b=p/2, this solution can be reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves were also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves were also discussed. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determining determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.     

Long Waves Associated with Bichromatic Waves

A numerical model of low frequency waves is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the nu-merical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave setup. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved with a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in modeling low frequency waves associated with incident bichromalic waves.     

Transparent boundary condition for simulating nonlinear water waves by a particle method

Open boundaries are important when simulating water waves. In this study, a transparent boundary condition at an open boundary was developed for simulating nonlinear water waves propagating to a distant area using the Moving Particle Semi-implicit method. The novelty of this study is that the technique of wave analysis used in the experiment was introduced into the particle simulation to absorb incident waves; the simulation cost was reduced by employing inflow and outflow regions instead of a long dissipation region. Incident waves in front of the boundary were evaluated using Fourier analysis, and the particles on the transparent boundary were forced to move at the velocity of the analytical solution for Stokes waves in order to absorb the incident waves. The analysis was restricted to periodic waves. Wave propagation was simulated for two wave periods using the developed transparent boundary condition. The results showed that this transparent boundary transmitted the incident waves with small reflection and the simulation cost was lower than that for wave damping by a conventional highly viscous region.