磨刀门河口枯季波生流场数值模拟研究

本文建立曲线坐标系下的双曲型缓坡方程波浪模型和考虑波浪辐射应力影响的深度平均2D潮流数学模型,首次研究了磨刀门河口2011年地形条件下的枯季波生流场。受波浪作用影响,落潮阶段,波浪作用方向与流向相反,在波浪顶托效应下拦门沙沙脊及外坡处流速普遍减小,形成两个主要回流区,口门外东西两侧浅滩处流速也减小,东西两汊及横洲深槽流速增大;涨潮阶段,波浪作用方向与流向相同,拦门沙沙脊及外坡处流速增大,沙脊处出现冲越流,口门两侧浅滩处流速增大,横洲深槽流速减小。     

Spatial distribution of wave overtopping water behind coastal structures

Spatial distribution of random wave overtopping water behind coastal structures was investigated using a numerical model based on Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver (RANS) and Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme (RANS-VOF). The computed spatial distributions of wave overtopping water behind the structure agree well with the measurements by Pullen et al (2008) for a vertical wall and Lykke Andersen and Burcharth (2006) for a 1:2 sea dike. A semi-analytical model was derived to relate spatial distribution of wave overtopping water behind coastal structures to landward ground level, velocity and layer thickness on the crest. This semi-analytical model agrees reasonably well with both numerical model results and measurements close to coastal structures. Our numerical model results suggest that the proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with a seaward slope when it is less than 1:3 and decreases with a seaward slope when it gets steeper. The proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with landward ground level and overtopping discharge. It also increases with the product of incident wave height and wavelength, but decreases with increasing relative structure freeboard and crest width. We also found that the extent of hazard area due to wave overtopping is significantly reduced by using a permeable structure crown. Findings in this study will enable engineers to establish the extent of hazard zones due to wave overtopping behind coastal structures.     

Sediment flux and equilibrium slopes in a barred nearshore

Estimates of time-integrated values of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux and the associated changes in bed elevation and local slope were determined for a crescentic outer nearshore bar in Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick, Canada, for eight discrete storm events. A 100 × 150 m grid of depth-of-activity rods spaced at 10 m intervals was used to monitor sediment behaviour on the seaward slope, bar crest and landward slope during the storms, at which time winds, incident waves and near-bed oscillatory currents were measured. Comparisons between storm events and between these events and a longer-term synthetic wave climatology were facilitated using hindcast wave parameters. Strong positive correlations between storm-wave conditions (significant height and total cumulative energy) and total volume flux contrasted strongly with the zero correlation between storm-wave conditions and net volume flux. ITVF values ranged up to 1646 m³ for the experimental grid and were found to have power function relations with significant wave height (exponent 2) and cumulative wave wave energy (exponent 0.4); values of INVF ranged from 0 up to 100 m³ for the same grid indicating a balance of sediment volume in the bar form through time. Sediment reactivation increased linearly with decreasing depth across the seaward slope and bar crest reaching maxima of 20 cm for the two largest storms; bed elevation, and thus slope, changes were restricted to the bar crest and upper landward slope with near zero morphological change on the seaward slope. The latter represents a steady-state equilibrium with null net transport of sediment under shoaling waves. Measurements of the asymmetry of orbital velocities close to the bed show that the energetics approach to predicting beach slope of Inman and Bagnold (1963) is sound. Gradients predicted vary from 0.01 to 0.03 for a range of angles of internal friction appropriate to the local sediment (tan ø = 0.3–0.6). These compare favorably with the measured seaward slope of 0.015 formed under average maximum orbital velocities of 1.12 m s⁻¹ (landward) and 1.09 m s⁻¹ (seaward) recorded during the period of the largest storm waves.     

Spatial and temporal variability of titanomagnetite placer deposits on a predominantly black sand beach

Titanomagnetite forms rich placer deposits along the northwest coast of New Zealand. These deposits were sampled along 3 shore-normal transects spaced over the southern 2 km of a dissipative high-energy beach on the west coast in 5 field campaigns covering one year. The percentage of opaque minerals (mainly titanomagnetite) was extremely high in the upper 30 m of the beach face, extending seaward where these opaque minerals were gradually replaced with variable amounts of lighter augite, hornblende and plagioclase. The pattern appeared to be divided into two regions, a lower seaward and an upper landward region, separated by a point where either marine dominated over aeolian processes or where swash dominated over breaking processes. In the seaward region, the percentage of opaques increased and particle size fined landward as undertow removed the lighter larger particles seaward. In the landward region, the percentage of opaques and particle size were more constant, or even showed the reverse pattern as wind transported the lighter material shoreward, or swash asymmetry transported the heavier material seaward. The similarity of settling velocities over the whole beach face suggests that sorting by size rather than weight plays a dominant role in separating the mineral assemblages. Considerable variations existed between transects. This could be explained by the spatial changes in surfzone waves and currents that were associated with proximity to the southern headland and various rip current channels that characterised this dissipative site. Surprisingly, the percentage of opaques decreased when the wave conditions of the day of sampling were more energetic. In contrast to many other placer deposits, these deposits are abundant on the beach face, forming an armouring layer during lower wave energy conditions. During higher wave conditions, the surface layer erodes allowing lighter augite, plagioclase and hornblende to be released from the sediments below.     

Patterns of unsuccessful shell-crushing predation along a tidal gradient in two geographically separated salt marshes

Gradients in salt marsh ecosystems that result from reduced tidal inundation time in the high marsh offer an opportunity to assess the importance of predation as a selective agent (indexed by the time-averaged record of unsuccessful predation, which integrates potentially confounding short-term – inter-seasonal and inter-annual – fluctuations in predation pressure). Spatial patterns in selection pressure are expected to decrease landward from the seaward edge of the marsh. Interaction between shell-breaking predators and their snail prey, Littoraria irrorata, however, generated a pattern in the frequency of sublethal injury (shell repair), standardized for snail size, that did not follow this simple, single-variable prediction of decreasing repair frequencies with distance from the seaward edge of the marsh, based on inundation time alone. Patterns of repair frequency increased landward from the seaward edge of the marsh, only declining as predicted after a zone of dense stands of salt marsh grass. The interaction of tidal inundation time and primary habitat structure ( e.g. physical vegetative barriers to dispersion of predators into the marsh) is hypothesized to shape selection gradients in salt marshes, as inferred from the record of unsuccessful predation.     

Peak Dynamic Pressure on Semi- and Quarter-Circular Breakwaters Under Wave Troughs

A series of physical tests are conducted to examine the characteristics of the wave loading exerted on circular-front breakwaters by regular waves. It is found that the wave trough instead of wave crest plays a major role in the failure of submerged circular caissons due to seaward sliding. The difference in the behavior of seaward and shoreward horizontal wave forces is explained based on the variations of dynamic pressure with wave parameters. A wave load model is proposed based on a modified first-order solution for the dynamic pressure on submerged circular-front caissons under a wave trough. This wave loading model is very useful for engineering design. Further studies are needed to include model uncertainties in the reliability assessment of the breakwater.     

Layer thicknesses and velocities of wave overtopping flow at seadikes

Seadikes often fail due to wave overtopping and a failure of the landward slope. Therefore, these aspects have to be taken into account for the design of seadikes. In present design, the calculation of the crest height of seadikes is essentially based on using a design water level and the corresponding wave run-up height. An average overtopping rate is generally considered for wave overtopping which can not account for the stresses and other effects due to extreme individual overtopping events. Landward slope design is more or less based on experience. It can be concluded from failure analysis that dike failures on the landward slope are rather initiated by individual overtopping events, in particular by the related overtopping flow velocities and layer thicknesses which are relevant for the prediction of erosion, infiltration and slip failure. Therefore, overtopping flow velocities and layer thicknesses are required in addition to average overtopping rates as hydraulic boundary conditions for the geotechnical stability analysis of seadikes.The objective of the present paper is the theoretical and experimental determination of overtopping flow velocities and layer thicknesses on the seaward slope, the dike crest and the landward slope of a seadike. Overtopping parameters are derived on the basis of small scale model tests which are required for the design of the landward slope and to avoid dike failures by wave overtopping in the future. For the prediction of the layer thicknesses and the velocities of the overtopping flow on the seaward slope, the dike crest and the landward slope, a set of theoretical formulas is derived and validated by hydraulic scale model tests.     

A Numerical Investigation of the Reduction of Solitary Wave Runup by A Row of Vertical Slotted Piles

To improve the current understanding of the reduction of tsunami-like solitary wave runup by the pile breakwater on a sloping beach, we developed a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM in this study. The Navier Stokes equations were applied to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combined with an LES model to solve the turbulence and a VOF method to capture the free surface. The adopted model was firstly validated with existing empirical formulas for solitary wave runup on the slope without the pile structure. It is then validated using our new laboratory observations of the free surface elevation, the velocity and the pressure around a row of vertical slotted piles subjected to solitary waves, as well as the wave runup on the slope behind the piles. Subsequently, a set of numerical simulations were implemented to analyze the wave reflection, the wave transmission, and the shoreline runup with various offshore wave heights, offshore water depths, adjacent pile spaces and beach slopes. Finally, an improved empirical equation accounting for the maximum wave runup on the slope was proposed by taking the presence of the pile breakwater into consideration.     

Transport of salt and suspended sediments in a curving channel of a coastal plain estuary: Satilla River, GA

This study describes the transport of salt and suspended sediment in a curving reach of a shallow mesotidal coastal plain estuary. Circulation data revealed a subtidal upstream bottom flow during neap tide, indicating the presence of a gravitational circulation mode throughout the channel. During spring tide, landward bottom flow weakened considerably at the upstream end of the channel and changed to seaward in the middle and downstream areas of the reach, suggesting the importance of tidal pumping. Salt flux near-bottom was landward at both ends of the channel during neap tide. At spring, however, the salt flux diverged along the bottom of the thalweg suggesting that tidal pumping caused a transfer of salt vertically and laterally into the intertidal zone. Thus, landward flux of salt is maintained even in the presence of subtidal seaward flow along the bottom at the downstream end of the channel.Landward bottom stress is greater than seaward stress, preferentially transporting suspended sediments upstream. Compared with salt, however, the weight of the suspended sediments causes less upward transfer of sediments into the intertidal zone. Flood flow carried more suspended sediments landward at the upstream end compared with the downstream end. We speculate that secondary flow in the curving channel picks up increasing amounts of suspended sediments along the sides during flood and adds them to the axial flow in the thalweg. Since the landward flow along the bottom of the thalweg weakens and even reverses during spring tide, there appears to be a complex re-circulation system for sediments re-suspended in curving channels that complicates the picture of a net transport of sediments landward.     

Estimation of the Effect of Lateral Flow on Piled Bridge Abutments in Soft Ground Considering Piled Slabs as a Countermeasure of the Abutments

The effectiveness of a simple method to estimate the lateral movement of piled bridge abutments due to lateral flow from the safety factor (Fs) of slope stability analysis was studied. This was accomplished through the construction and measurement of actual piled bridge abutments and its backfill, with and without piled slabs as a countermeasure. To do this, a computer program SLOPILE (VER 3.0) considering the lateral earth pressure acting on a row of piled bridge abutment was developed. SLOPILE (VER 3.0) can calculate the slope stability for both planar failure surfaces in infinite slopes and arc failure surfaces based on Fellenius or Bishop simplified methods. SLOPILE (VER 3.0) was utilized to design the piled bridge abutment reinforced by a piled slab at a real site. The piled slab can effectively prevent the lateral flow of soft ground and satisfy not only the safety factor of a slope but also the allowable bearing capacity of piles. To verify the design method, an instrumentation system was adapted. The instrumentation results from a case study clearly showed that the piled slab effectively resisted the lateral movement of a bridge abutment due to placement of backfill. Also, the surcharge loads due to backfill were supported by the piled slab and transmitted to the bedrock through the piled slab.     

High-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone

Sediment-level oscillations with heights of about 6 cm and shore-normal lengths of order 10 m have been measured in the swash zone of a high-energy, coarse-sand beach. Crests of oscillations were shore parallel and continuous alongshore. The oscillations were of such low steepness (height-to-length ratio approximately 0.006) that they were difficult to detect visually. The period of oscillation ranged between 6 and 15 min and decreased landward across the swash zone. The sediment-level oscillations were progressive landward with an average migration rate in the middle to upper swash zone of 0.8 m min⁻¹. Migration was caused mostly by erosion on the seaward flank of the crest of an oscillation during a period of net seaward sediment transport. Thus, the observed migration was a form migration landward rather than a migration involving net landward sediment transport. The observed sediment-level oscillations were different than sand waves or other swash-zone bedforms previously described.     

Characteristics of topography and vegetation at boundaries between the beach and dune on residential shorefront lots in two municipalities in New Jersey,USA

Natural and cultural characteristics at seaward boundaries of residential lots are examined to identify ways of making these boundaries more naturally functioning. Field data on lot size, house size, type and location of the seaward-most vertical structure, and window height are compared with topography and vegetation on the backdune, foredune, foreslope, and flat seaward of the foredune. Results indicate that intensively developed coastlines can retain natural dune features on private property if residents allow ecological boundaries to replace cultural boundaries. Appropriate management actions include: (1) discouraging planting of exotics, (2) building houses at higher elevations, so residents can retain views of the sea as dunes grow, (3) elevating boardwalks to facilitate transfers of sediment and biota, (4) discouraging use of fences to demarcate lot lines, (5) restricting use of sand-trapping fences, and (6) placing cultural features on landward sides of lots to provide space for nature to evolve.     

Distribution of bottom stress and tidal energy dissipation in a well-mixed estuary

Estimates of area-averaged tidal bottom stress are made for four channel segments of the Great Bay Estuary, N.H. Current and sealevel measurements are used to estimate acceleration and pressure gradient terms in the equation of motion, while the equation of motion itself is used to infer the remaining stress term. Dynamic terms, bottom stress values, friction coefficients and energy dissipation rates are estimated for each site. The analysis shows that while throughout the estuary the principal force balance is between the frictional stress and the pressure gradient forcing, RMS values of total bottom stress range from 2·67 to 10·38 Nm^?2 and friction coefficients vary from 0·015 to 0·054. Both stress and energy dissipation are largest in the seaward portion of the estuary with an order of magnitude decrease in dissipation at the most inland site.These distributions of stress and energy dissipation are consistent with cotidal charts of the principal semi-diurnal tidal constituent (M₂) which indicate that the estuary is composed of a highly dissipative more progressive tidal wave regime seaward and a less dissipative standing wave regime landward.     

Atmospheric forcing of fine-sand transport on a low-energy inner shelf: south-central Louisiana,USA

Hydrodynamic and sediment transport measurements from instrumentation deployed during a 54-day winter period at two sites on the Louisiana inner shelf are presented. Strong extratropical storms, with wind speeds of 7.8 to 15.1 m s^-1, were the dominant forcing mechanism during the study. These typically caused mean oscillatory flows and shear velocities about 33% higher than fair weather (averaging 12.3 and 3.2 cm s^-1 at the landward site, and 11.4 and 2.7 cm s^-1 at the seaward site, respectively). These responses were coupled with mean near-bottom currents more than twice as strong as during fair weather (10.3 and 7.5 cm s^-1 at the landward and seaward sites, respectively). These flowed in approximately the same direction as the veering wind, causing a net offshore transport of fine sand. Weak storms were responsible for little sediment transport whereas during fair weather, onshore sand transport of approximately 25-75% of the storm values appears to have occurred. This contradicts previous predictions of negligible fair-weather sediment movement on this inner shelf.     

杭州湾淤泥质海岸岸线变化及其动态模拟

通过对杭州湾北岸南竹港-龙泉岸段实测岸滩断面资料的统计分析,进而对淤泥质海岸岸线变化、影响因素及其动态模拟预报进行探讨。结果表明:因长江来沙减少以及侵蚀/淤积波自东向西移动,导致近10a来该岸段岸滩处于侵蚀状态,其中岸线整体后退;因季节性的波侯作用,岸滩具有冬淤夏冲的特征,岸线则表现为冬涨夏退,因局部工程作用影响的岸线则具有冬退夏涨的特征。此外,基于-3m和-8m等深线构建的径向基函数神经网络模型预报岸线的变化是可行的。     

The phase difference effects on 3-D structure of wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater

In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of the wave forces on them is of great importance. In this paper, the influences of the phase difference on wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater installed in the three-dimensional (3-D) wave field are studied numerically. We extend the earlier model [Hur, D.S., Mizutani, N., 2003. Coastal Engineering 47, 329–345] to simulate 3-D wave fields by introducing 3-D Navier–Stokes solver with the Smagorinsky's sub-grid scale (SGS) model. For the validation of the model, the wave field around a 3-D asymmetrical structure installed on a submerged breakwater, in which the complex wave deformations generate, is simulated, and the numerical solutions are compared to the experimental data reported by Hur, Mizutani, Kim [2004. Coastal Engineering (51, 407–420)]. The model is then adopted to investigate 3-D characteristics of wave pressure and force on a caisson of composite breakwater, and the numerical solutions were discussed with respect to the phase difference between harbor and seaward sides induced by the transmitted wave through the rubble mound or the diffraction. The numerical results reveal that wave forces acting on the composite breakwater are significantly different at each cross-section under influence of wave diffraction that is important parameter on 3-D wave interaction with coastal structures.     

2D Wave setup behind submerged breakwaters

In addition to reducing the incoming wave energy, submerged breakwaters also cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area, which is relevant to the whole shadow zone circulation, including alongshore currents and seaward flows through the gaps. This study examines such a leading hydraulic parameter under the simplified hypothesis of 2D motion and presents a prediction model that has been validated by a wide ensemble of experimental data. Starting from an approach originally proposed by Dalrymple and Dean [(1971). Piling-up behind low and submerged permeable breakwaters. Discussion note on Diskin et al. (1970). Journal of Waterways and Harbors Division WW2, 423–427], the model splits the rise of the mean water level into two contributions: one is due to the momentum flux release forced by wave breaking on the structure, and the other is associated with the mass transport process. For the first time, the case of random wave trains has been explicitly considered.     

Role of piles in mitigating the movement of pipes in soft grounds during embankment loading

Abstract

Pipes buried in soft ground can be damaged due to the vertical and lateral movement of the ground during the construction of the embankment. To investigate such a movement of the soft ground, full-scale tests using embankment piles and stabilizing piles were conducted for 70?days. A pile-supported embankment has been used to reduce the deformation of soft ground by transferring the embankment load through piles to the firm layer below the soft ground, whereas stabilizing piles have been employed to resist the lateral earth pressure that is induced in soft ground by embankment loads. The Coupling Area (CA), which was defined as the quantitative index to determine the resistance effect of both settlement and lateral flow of the soft ground when the embankment was reinforced, is adapted. The analysis results of the CA indicate that the piled embankment was more effective for preventing the damage to buried pipe installed near the embankment, while the stabilizing piles had almost the same effect as the piled embankment when the pipe was buried far away from the embankment.     

Approximate calculation of oblique wave transmission from a single-row of rectangular piles

Transmissions of oblique incident wave from a row of rectangular piles are analyzed theoretically. The incident angle of plane wave is taken as , there then is the transmission coefficient (This is a paradox). In this paper, by means of the approximate relation between the transmitted and incident wave angle found from the shape of a slit, the paradoxical phenomenon is removed. On the basis of the continuality of the pressure and flux and the analysis of flow resistance at the row of rectangular piles, formulas of reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained. The transmission and reflection coefficients predicted by the present model quite agree with those of laboratory experiments in previous references