蓬莱西庄海滩示踪砂试验研究

为了研究蓬莱西庄海岸侵蚀原因、揭示泥沙运移规律，利用萤光示踪砂和染色砾石进行侵蚀岸段的泥沙示踪研究．其主要结果如下：１．海滩泥沙运动完全由波浪控制，泥沙运移的速度和方向取决于破波的大小和方向．２．海滩泥沙以群体形式沿岸输移．３．在平直海岸上，泥沙可超越粘土质海蚀平台进入另一砂质海滩。     

一般高潮线与2 m等深线反映黄河三角洲冲淤变化的对比

黄河三角洲是我国乃至世界上陆地动态变化最快的地区之一,其冲淤变化备受关注.利用从遥感影像提取一般高潮线和从实测水深提取2 m等深线反映海岸冲淤的两种方法,对钓口河嘴、清水沟河嘴和清8河嘴分别进行了冲淤面积（淤积、蚀退和净造陆面积）的计算,并对两种方法得到的结果进行了对比.结果显示,两种方法相差较大,钓口河嘴、清水沟河嘴和清8河嘴,2 m等深线反映的冲淤面积（无论是淤积、蚀退还是净造陆面积）绝对值比一般高潮线反映的冲淤面积绝对值都明显偏大.在反映黄河三角洲冲淤变化上,遥感影像提取的一般高潮线可反映陆上三角洲的冲淤变化,实测水深则反映水下三角洲的冲淤变化.     

Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.     

Remotely sensing in detecting the water depths and bed load of shallow waters and their changes

Bed load is a type of sand drift and accumulation on the sea-bed. Sand drift is a very important index to survey the erosion or deposition of coastal zone. The change of water depths indicates the change of bed load in shallow waters. The conventional method for measuring water depth uses the shipboard echo sounder, which is accurate for point-measurement, but is a time-consuming and labor-intensive task. For periodic survey of bathymetry as synoptic scale, the remote sensing method may be a viable alternative. Wave spectrum bathymetric (WSB) method takes advantages of remote sensing to obtain the bathymetry of shallow waters safely, economically and quickly. The WSB method is feasible to detect the change of water depths over coastal zones where water depths are less than about 12 m. This remote sensing method is worthy to be well developed and efficiently applied to change detection of water depths and bed load in shallow waters.     

Sea Level Variations and Geomorphological Changes in the Coastal Belt of Pakistan

The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.     

现代黄河三角洲滨浅海区的灾害地质

利用卫星遥感、测深、浅地层剖面及钻孔资料研究了黄河三角洲海岸及近海海洋灾害地质,编制了黄河三角洲海洋灾害地质图。黄河三角洲海岸灾害地质以海岸侵蚀为主,根据1976—2001年海岸的变化速率,可将海岸分为快速侵蚀海岸、中等程度侵蚀海岸、稳定海岸和淤积海岸四类,快速侵蚀海岸和中等程度侵蚀海岸长期以来遭受侵蚀。灾害地质因素有浅层气、灾害地貌、活动断层、海底滑坡、底辟、隆起脊、埋藏冲沟一古河道。浅层气主要分布在老黄河口附近渤海海底,近岸少见。浅层灾害地貌主要分布在三角洲前缘斜坡上的扰动区。扰动区位置在整个三角洲上变动明显,有向岸移动的趋势,斜坡坡度减小,扰动强度减弱。底辟除了发生在废弃三角洲侵蚀区外,还发生在三角洲外的渤海海底下部。隆起脊位于黄河口东部渤海海底,沿NE—SW方向发育,顺隆起脊发育活动断层。     

Sea Level Variations and Geomorphological Changes in the Coastal Belt of Pakistan

The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.     

南海西北部英罗湾红树林保护区光滩近期冲淤变化分析

红树林岸外光滩高程变化是红树林可持续性发展的重要环境因素。本文以南海西北部英罗湾为研究区,利用多时相多源遥感影像提取水边线,并结合迭代的FVCOM水动力模型模拟方法,建立了2008年和2015年两个时期红树林岸外光滩数字高程模型(Digital Elevation Model, DEM)。利用两个时期的反演结果进行空间叠置分析,结果表明:2008年至2015年,湾顶光滩大部分呈现稳定-淤积状态;位于海湾中部至口门的光滩,从上部到下部整体呈现从淤积-稳定-侵蚀的趋势,其中光滩中部局部出现沟壑状侵蚀,与大型潮沟的发育和摆动有关;而光滩上部冲淤的空间差异性,主要由于红树林林区扩张形态以及人类活动的干预。     

舟山岛马岙岸段海岸演变与水下岸坡冲淤动态

利用不同年份的水深地形资料进行冲淤计算,结合实测水文泥沙、现场岸滩沉积地貌观察、新老海堤分布位置及以往浅地层探测和考古等资料综合分析发现,岸滩地貌形态从大约距今7 000 a前的一个古基岩港湾经受细颗粒泥沙长期不断地充填、淤积转化为近乎平直的岸段.在自然和人类活动的共同作用下,近370 a来海岸线以5.3 m/a的速度向海推移,潮滩以0.25 cm/a的速率沉积.近40余年来水下岸坡平均冲淤速率为-3.8~2.4 cm/a,横向冲淤调整有类似砂质海岸剖面塑造的特性,泥沙经受了在横向剖面"上部微淤、下部微冲"和纵向总体"东侧微冲、中西部微淤"的交替重复调整过程,目前朝着"上部微淤、下部微冲"的均衡剖面调整方向发展.     

冬季波浪与人工岛联合作用下日月湾海滩冲淤演变特征

人工岛作为一种新兴的海岸工程, 它的建设所引起的岸滩冲淤和防护问题日益受到人们的关注。本文以海南万宁市日月湾人工岛为例, 通过4期实测海滩剖面数据和多时相遥感影像, 分析了冬季波浪与人工岛联合作用对日月湾海滩冲淤变化的影响, 并结合海区波况, 探究了海滩冲淤变化机理。研究表明, 日月湾海区冬半年的平均有效波高与波浪周期明显强于夏半年, 且波浪强度整体上呈现逐年上升的趋势, 但在人工岛建设前后变化幅度较小; 人工岛建设对海滩地貌变化有强烈影响, 海滩呈现出岛后淤积而两侧侵蚀的显著特征, 岛影区海滩不断淤积, 岸线向海淤进达200m, 甚至可能与人工岛相连形成连岛沙坝, 人工岛后两侧海滩侵蚀, 岸线向陆一侧蚀退最大距离达50m; 海滩在冬季波浪和人工岛共同影响下, 岸滩自北向南依次表现为稳定、侵蚀、淤积、相对稳定、略有侵蚀或淤积、侵蚀、淤积的冲淤变化特征。     

Short-Term Morphological and Shoreline Changes at Trinkat Island,Andaman and Nicobar,India, After the 2004 Tsunami

The tsunami waves generated during the Sumatra-Andaman earthquake of 26 December 2004 devastated the coastal area along Trinkat Island, causing sudden changes to the morphology of the landforms. This study uses a series of satellite images to record the short-term morphological response and shoreline changes as well as the recovery of coastal land after its destruction. Results indicate that the island experienced substantial erosion and a significant reduction in land area. Shoreline erosion is more prevalent than accretion at an average linear regression rate of ～?9 m per year between 2004 and 2013. The major morphological changes at Trinkat Island were observed in coastal inlets, beaches, and bay head-lands. Straight beaches had almost recovered eight years after the tsunami; however, erosion is continually observed in other areas. Our study will help understanding the response and recovery of shorelines in Indian Ocean regions after the 2004 tsunami.     

海平面上升对长江三角洲附近沿海潮滩和湿地的影响

于１９８８－１９９１年，对长江三角洲附近沿海潮滩和湿地进行较全面的调查，利用高程－面积法、沉积速率法，并引进未来冲淤趋势参数，对全区１４个典型潮滩断面进行海平面上升影响的估算。结果表明，当海平面上升０．５ｍ和１．０ｍ时，全区潮滩面积分别比１９９０年的减少９．２％和１６．７％；湿地面积减少２０％和２８％，并发生高级类型向低级类型的逆向演替。各岸段损失率相差悬殊，以侵岸段较大，淤涨岸段将减缓淤涨，甚至     

渤海海峡沉积物输运的数值模拟

根据渤海海峡空间尺度的大小、潮流特征和沉积物的性质特征 ,构造了一个平面二维沉积物输运数值模型。模拟结果显示 ,在研究区内 ,成山头附近的海底沉积物净输运向东南和东北 ,渤海海峡西部的沉积物向西北输运 ,北部大连沿岸的沉积物顺着辽东半岛向西南方向输运 ,然后绕过辽东半岛的南端向北输运。在渤海海峡中部偏东 ,沉积物的净输运趋势形成一个反时针方向的旋涡 ,愈往中心沉积物的净输运率值愈小。海底冲淤趋势的计算结果与观测的结果相符 ,且中部泥区和山东半岛北部近岸泥区正好对应于海底淤积区 ,辽东半岛南岸的狭长泥带对应于淤积条带 ,泥质区的边缘为冲刷区。     

1976年以来江苏盐城滨海湿地景观变化及驱动力分析

基于1976年的地形测绘数据和1987,1992,1997,2002,2007年的遥感数据提取土地利用和景观的时空变化,进而分析近40 a来江苏盐城滨海湿地的景观变化和驱动力。研究表明:自1976年以来盐城滨海湿地中的自然湿地总面积呈逐渐减少的趋势;景观的主要变化特征表现为以獐茅、碱蓬群落为代表的自然湿地的大面积减少,和以鱼塘、农业用地为代表的人工湿地的大面积增加。景观指标分析表明盐城滨海湿地景观总体上有破碎化程度加剧的趋势。结果分析认为,这种变化既受到政策导向型的各类滩涂开发等人为干扰活动的影响,也受到滨海湿地自然演化和潮滩蚀淤等自然因素的影响。尽快改变盐城滨海湿地现有的开发利用模式,使各种人类活动对整个生态系统的压力减到最小,以获得经济、社会、生态效益的统一。     

辽东湾绥中海岸侵蚀研究

通过不同时期海图对比、分析遥感图像和多年现场监测资料,分析了辽东湾绥中沙质海岸侵蚀的特点,认为海岸组成物质松散与海岸动力作用强烈是本区现代海岸侵蚀的基本条件;陆源物质入海量减少、海动力作用、沿岸工程建筑和海上采砂是其海岸蚀退的主要影响因素。     

Response of the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria to climate and non-climate forcing

Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise.     

南海北部湾表层悬浮体分布规律

受实测数据海域位置的限制,目前基于遥感手段对北部湾表层悬浮体的研究,在部分海域如海湾西部精度不高,且缺乏对悬浮体浓度（suspended sediment concentration,SSC）季节变化的研究。基于2003—2017年MODIS-Aqua卫星L1B数据,结合海南岛西部、广西沿岸和越南沿岸实测数据,建立表层SSC的反演模型,获得北部湾海域2003—2017年月均表层SSC分布,并对其影响因素进行初步探讨。结果显示：北部湾表层SSC存在3个终年高值区,包括广西沿岸、海南岛西侧和红河三角洲沿岸;受河流输沙和海洋动力季节变化影响,SSC表现为冬季和夏季较高、春季最低的季节变化特征;热带气旋过境导致北部湾海域SSC增高,其中热带风暴“贝碧嘉”过境时位于路径右侧的雷州半岛西部SSC较多年平均值增幅达75%。     

利用混合光谱分解估测珠江口悬浮泥沙浓度

利用遥感技术估测水体中的悬浮泥沙的浓度已经成为一门成熟的技术,但将其应用于河口地区悬浮泥沙的监测仍然存在一些限制。限制之一是遥感数据（例如MODIS）的空间分辨率太低,不适合应用于河口等狭小水域的监测。相比较而言,Hyperion高光谱遥感数据有196个波段,覆盖400-2500nm的光谱范围,光谱分辨率为10nm,空间分辨率为30m,其高光谱分辨率及高空间分辨率,显示了其在河口水体悬浮泥沙遥感中的巨大潜力。利用2006年12月4号的Hyperion数据、同步实测的高光谱数据及悬浮泥沙浓度数据,对珠江口海域悬浮泥沙浓度进行了研究。利用混合光谱分解模型计算了珠江口悬浮泥沙浓度的分布。分析结果表明,混合光谱分解模型可以作为遥感监测水体悬浮泥沙浓度的定量模型。     

Remote sensing of coastal interactions in the Mediterranean region

The coastal regions of the Mediterranean are the site of countless economic and recreational activities, but are threatened by dramatic dangers of misuse and pollution. Adequate tools are needed to study the environmental pressure imposed on these regions by the conflicting needs of protecting their ecological balance and exploiting their natural resources. Coastal ecosystems are very sensitive to the environmental impact of land use in watersheds, along the coast and further inland, of fluvial discharges, and of marine processes. Weathering, erosion, or waste disposal on land, as well as other activities at sea, such as shipping, dumping or oil extraction, are but a few of the factors which would require that the coastal areas be suitably monitored. Modern techniques of environmental assessment call for the use of integrated observation systems. The collection of data with traditional coastal installations remains an important component of such research. However, the large space scales and short time scales of many near-coastal and/or marine processes require the use of (orbital) remote sensors. In particular, optical sensors, operating in the visible/infrared spectral region, have shown their usefulness for providing novel information on physical, geo-chemical and biological processes of the coastal area. Optical remote sensing of the coastal zone finds applications in studies of land use, surface cover, hydrology and coastal ecology at large; of water quality and sediment transport, coastal runoff and circulation, or dynamical processes (looking, e.g., at the evolution of pigment and/or temperature patterns, and their distribution as related to plankton dynamics, currents or river plumes); as well as in those of energy transfer, carbon cycling and climatology in general. Selected applications of optical observation techniques in the Mediterranean region, conducted in the framework of international demonstration programmes (i.e. the Ocean Colour European Archive Network, OCEAN, Project), provide examples of the remote sensing potential in the field of integrated coastal/marine environmental management.     

Coastal sedimentation in East Sussex during the Holocene

Lithostratigraphic and biostratigraphic evidence is presented which suggests that shoreward movement of sediment, resulting in the formation of a barrier beach, has been the dominant method of accretion in the Eastbourne area, with longshore drift probably being of only secondary importance. A model of coastal evolution for this area has been constructed. It appears that distinct phases of accretion have occurred during the Holocene as well as a change in the type of sediment transported into this area. Originally of silty clay then sand and finally of gravel, a distinct coarsening-upwards in the sedimentary sequence is apparent. A loss of sediment since the 18th century has resulted in the erosion of Eastbourne's beaches. This current episode of erosion may have important implications for land use. The study of Iron Age forest clearance in the Combe Haven valley of East Sussex exemplifies the inter-relationship of sedimentation between river and coastal systems. At the heart of this relationship is the hypothesis that forest clearance resulted in a substantial release of colluvial material, and a concurrent increase in river discharge. Biostratigraphic evidence, supported by radiocarbon dating, suggests that the development of the floodplain in the Combe Haven valley may be directly linked to forest clearance, and that the estuary of this river was modified by the increase in discharge due to reduced evapotranspiration and increased run off, causing a marine incursion into the lower course of the Combe Haven valley. The results from the two areas discussed suggest cyclic erosion phases associated with a change from one sediment type to another.