双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分布５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下波高、周期的统计分布，并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

双峰谱型海浪的统计性质

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料,分析讨论了双峰谱形下波高、周期的统计分布,以及波高与周期联合分布及混合浪的有效波高和有效波周期的计算问题,得到若干重要结论.     

双峰谱型海浪波高与周期的联合分布

本文利用实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，以３种典型谱型分别讨论了双峰谱型下波高与周期的联合分布，并与理论结果进行了比较。     

双峰谱型海浪波高与周期的联合分布

本文利用实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，以３种典型谱型分别讨论了双峰谱型下波高与周期的联合分布，并与理论结果进行了比较。     

南海深水区双峰型海浪谱特征研究

基于南海深水区波浪实测资料,对双峰型海浪谱的演化过程进行了分析,并对双峰型海浪的波高、波向、谱峰周期、出现时间和常用双峰谱模型的适用性等方面进行了研究。结果表明,双峰型海浪出现时波高普遍小于2m,其涌浪部分谱峰周期约11.37s;Ochi-Hubble谱在南海的适用性较好。研究成果可为南海深水区油气资源的开发、设计提供参考。     

由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征

采用目前国际上最新的随机波分析方法,由协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,对美国国家浮标44008站2002年6月一典型的双峰海浪谱资料进行谱分析.以实测平均谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟.得到模拟波面估计谱与实测谱极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致.说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征.利用实测海浪谱密度,统计波特征量的周期概率分布,得到理论周期概率密度与估计周期概率密度分布相符较好,且与模拟波面的波周期分布也较好的一致.利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.得到变换高斯过程计算的波高与周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.     

斋堂岛东南海域波浪特征及海浪谱分析

利用斋堂岛东南海域2013年至2014年的实测波浪资料,统计分析了本海域波浪特征,为波浪能资源评估提供基本波浪参数。统计结果表明,本海域年平均有效波高为0.60 m,最大波高为5.30 m,平均周期为3.3 s,最大周期为8.3 s,常浪向为E-SE向。本文亦讨论了本海域波高分布和波高与周期的关系,并基于JONSWAP谱谱型的基本结构,拟合得到适用于本海域的海浪谱谱型,可为海洋能发电装置的布设及相应的工程建设提供一定的参考。     

胶州湾双峰谱型波浪的统计特征

本文对胶州湾实测双峰海浪谱的资料进行了统计分析和谱分析，探讨了双峰谱型海浪的波要素概率分布及其群性特征，并与单峰谱型海浪进行了比较．最后通过双峰谱的合成波高、周期与实测值的比较，对采用能量迭加方式的式（９）和式（８）进行一些讨论，主要结果列于本文最后一节．     

胶州湾双峰谱型波浪的统计特征

本文对胶州湾实测双峰海浪谱的资料进行了统计分析和谱分析，探讨了双峰谱型海浪的波要素概率分布及其群性特征，并与单峰谱型海浪进行了比较，最后通过双峰谱的合成波高，周期与实测值的比较，对采用能量迭加式的式（９）和式（８）进行一些讨论，主要结果列于本文最后一节。     

大洋波浪特征：西太平洋波浪调查研究报告

本文分析了西太平洋实测的波高分布、同期分布、波高和周期的联合分布,以及波谱的分析。分析结果指出,大洋波浪的波高和周期都大于近海波浪的波高和周期。分布特征也不同于近海。波浪多属混合浪,会出现典型的双峰谱。     

Representation of double-peaked sea wave spectra

About 1000 measured wave spectra from the North Atlantic and 6000 from the North Sea, were analysed so as to determine the frequency of occurrence of double-peaked spectra in sea states of different intensity. This type of spectrum did not occur so often close to coast and in high sea states. A four-parameter theoretical formulation was proposed to represent double-peaked spectra and was shown to provide an excellent fit to measured spectra. The average values of the spectral parameters describing the two peaks did not show any clear dependence on significant wave height.     

Wave attenuation by flexible,idealized salt marsh vegetation

Wave attenuation by vegetation is a highly dynamic process and its quantification is important for understanding shore protection potential and modeling coastal hydrodynamics. Data documenting the interactions of Spartina alterniflora, represented by polyolefin tubing, and single- and double-peaked irregular waves were collected in a large-scale laboratory flume. The laboratory provided a controlled environment to evaluate wave attenuation, including the parameters of stem density, submergence, wave height, and peak period. Wave attenuation appeared to be most dependent on stem density and the ratio of stem length to water depth. Wave attention increased slightly with wave height while no clear trend with respect to wave period was seen. Treating double-peaked spectra as superimposed wave systems revealed a preferential dissipation of the higher-frequency wave system relative to the lower-frequency wave system under emergent conditions. Wave energy loss occurred at all frequencies of both spectral types, with dissipation increasing with frequency above the spectral peak. Parameterizing the spectral equilibrium range as a function of frequency showed a steepening of the spectral tail compared to the − 4 power law under emergent conditions. An empirical relationship defining the bulk drag coefficient for S. alterniflora as a function of the stem Reynolds number is found to serve as a first estimate for engineering applications.     

Representation of double-peaked sea wave spectra in Jiaozhou Bay

The spectrum shape characteristics of double-peaked sea wave spectia actually measured in the Jiaozhou Bay were analysed and one representation of double-peaked sea wave spectra with six-parameters which can be determined from a given sea wave spectrum is proposed in this paper. After verifying by fitting process with the data sets of double-peaked sea wave spectra measured in the Jiaozhou Bay, it can be seen from the results that the representation mentioned above may be used to express the double-peaked sea wave spectra generated in the Jiaozhou Bay under various sea states, and that the absolute values of maximum deviation index (D.I.) do not exceed 30. 0.     

南海北部台风海浪谱的双峰性和成长性

本论文通过对南海北部三次台风过境期间基于浮标观测的海浪谱进行分析,发现虽然大部分成熟的台风海浪谱为单峰结构,但实际上在台风海浪的成长和衰减阶段,双峰谱占据了很大的比例。双峰谱的形成主要是由于风浪和涌浪的叠加以及不同波分量之间的非线性相互作用,我们可以通过能量密度的成长率对谱型变化进行高效的预报。此外,台风海浪的主要波向依赖于台风中心相对观测点的位置,而波向的分散情况在相距台风中心较远的区域无明显规律。本文提出了一个新的六参数波浪谱型拟合双峰谱,其拟合效果相较于前人的谱型更好。通过验证,形状参数和谱宽度之间的理论关系依然适用于单个谱峰。通过分析谱参量的变化特征,证明了谱参量不仅与台风强度和台风路径相关,还存在很强的交互相关。最后通过拟合海浪谱数据,本文得到了台风影响下海浪有效波高和有效周期之间的成长关系,这对海洋工程实际应用具有重要意义。     

响水近岸海域波浪特性研究

基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料,分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性,研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性,并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间,年平均值为0.56 m;最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间,年平均值为0.93 m;平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s,年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节,波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言,通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面,本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%,且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值,其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右,高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间,分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系,发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性,但受波浪浅水变形影响,各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。     

三阶海浪波高分布及其应用

在三阶海浪非线性波高分布模式的基础上，引进描述分布函数结构形式的重要统计量，即概率分布的离差系数与偏差系数。给出这两个统计量与非线性控制参数之间的解析关系式，从而给出了反映风浪不同状态下的波高分布特征。与传统的瑞利分布相比，本文的结果有更广泛的实用意义。并把理论结果应用于黄河口波浪统计学的研究。     

Spectral wave characteristics off Gangavaram,Bay of Bengal

Spectral wave characteristics were studied based on waves measured for 1 year during 2010 off Gangavaram, Bay of Bengal. Maximum wave height of 5.2 m was observed on 19 May 2010 due to the influence of cyclonic storm LAILA. The wave spectrum was single-peaked during 57 % of the time and the double-peaked spectrum observed was mainly swell-dominated. Low-frequency waves (0.05–0.15 Hz) were predominantly from 150° to 180°, whereas high-frequency waves (>0.15 Hz) during November–January were mainly from 90° to 120°, and during July and August from 180° to 210°. Annual average significant wave height was similar to the value (1 m) observed in the eastern Arabian Sea.     

Dynamic pressures and run-up on semicircular breakwaters due to random waves

The dynamic pressures due to random waves of predefined spectral characteristics exerted on a semicircular breakwater model at five different elevations along the depth are measured. In addition, the wave run-up on the model and its reflection characteristics are measured. The results on the variation of the frequency pressure spectra along the depth and the run-up spectra are reported in this paper. The average spectral characteristics as well as statistical properties of the above two parameters are presented. The average reflection coefficient is reported as a function of the wave steepness, described as the ratio of the significant wave height to the square of the peak period.