畸形波作用下锚泊方柱系泊张力特性研究

基于物理模型试验,探究畸形波和不规则波作用下浮体系泊张力差异问题。讨论相对波高、相对周期和畸形波参数α₁对系泊张力的影响。结果显示:畸形波参数α₁和浮体系泊张力显著相关。在α₁=2.0～2.83范围内,畸形波作用下迎浪侧系泊张力最大值可达不规则波作用的1.9倍。在相对波高H_s/d=0.032～0.097范围内,畸形波作用下迎浪侧系泊张力最大值显著大于不规则波的作用结果,但畸形波和不规则波对应的1/3值及平均值几乎一致。就相对周期影响而言,迎浪侧系泊张力最大差别出现在谱峰周期T_p0p范围内。频域方面采用小波分析方法讨论畸形波和不规则波作用下浮体系泊张力时频谱特征,两种波浪作用下系泊张力时频特征有显著差别。     

Three-dimensional linear solution for wave propagation with slopingbottom

This paper presents a three-dimensional analytic linear wave solution for surface gravity wave propagation over a sloping bottom that is valid for small, but realistic, slopes. The sloping-bottom linear model is compared to published laboratory data and to predictions of two-dimensional, constant-bottom nonlinear theories. The model is shown to describe the measured wave-height growth in the wave transformation region up to a limiting local Ursell number U_r of 0.35-1.0, depending on the wave type, although, as a linear model, it does not predict the harmonics observed in that range. For U_r<0.35, the harmonics can generally be neglected and the sloping-bottom linear theory agrees closely with both the published wave-height data and third-order Stokes nonlinear theory. As a three-dimensional linear model, superposition can be invoked to synthesize and relate wave structure in the transformation region to complex incident ocean spectra with both wind wave and swell components that arrive with a range of incidence angles. As such, the sloping-bottom linear model presented here should be a convenient useful tool for ocean modeling through a significant portion of the wave transformation region     

CODAR wave measurements from a North Sea semisubmersible

CODAR, a high-frequency (HF) compact radar system, was operated continuously over several weeks aboard the semisubmersible oil platform Treasure Saga for the purpose of wave-height directional measurement and comparison. During North Sea winter storm conditions, the system operated at two different frequencies, depending on the sea state. Wave data are extracted from the second-order backscatter Doppler spectrum produced by nonlinearities in the hydrodynamic wave/wave and electromagnetic wave/scatter interactions. Because the floating oil rig itself moves in response to long waves, a technique has been developed and successfully demonstrated to eliminate to second order the resulting phase-modulation contamination of the echo, using separate accelerometer measurement of the platform's lateral motions. CODAR wave height, mean direction, and period are compared with data from a Norwegian directional wave buoy; in storm seas with wave heights that exceeded 9 m, the two height measurements agreed to within 20 cm RMS, and the mean direction to better than 15° RMS     

Measuring directional wave spectra using the 3D-ACM WAVE on fixedand taut-wire moorings

Field data were analyzed from a simultaneous deployment of two 3D-ACM WAVE instruments; one on a fixed seabed frame in the nearshore zone, and the other further offshore on a taut-wire mooring. An intercomparison of measurements of vertical and horizontal wave-orbital currents with pressures was used to evaluate the velocity sensor response under field conditions. Results using the fixed frame have validated the measured horizontal wave-orbital velocities, but found the vertical velocities to be less coherent with the pressure time-series. The influence of the instrument mooring system on the velocity measurements was investigated. The oscillation of the taut-wire mooring was found to influence the magnitude of the measured horizontal wave-orbital velocities and induce a phase lag between velocity and sea-surface elevation. Examination of other data from similar taut-wire moorings indicates a systematic relationship between the length of the mooring cable and the measured phase lag, consistent with the behavior of the mooring system considered as a forced, linearly damped oscillator. A comparison was made between the spectra of wave direction derived from both velocity and pressure data with that derived solely from velocity data. The results show a high coherence for the fixed mooring, but significant directional variability in the higher frequencies (>0.13 Hz) on the taut-wire mooring we employed, which we attribute to the mooring oscillation. The analysis further indicates that on taut-wire moorings, the spectra of wave direction should be resolved solely from velocity data. Using these findings, directional wave spectra were produced for the nearshore and offshore sites from 233 coincident events over a two-month period, and these data are presented in a time-averaged spectral format     

A general theory of three-dimensional wave groups Part I: The formal derivation

If we know that a wave of given exceptionally large crest-to-trough height occurs at a fixed point at an instant t_o in a random wind-generated sea state, we can predict what happens with a very high probability before and after t_o in an area surrounding . The expressions of the surface displacement and velocity potential in this area are obtained in closed form. They are exact to the first order in a Stokes expansion and hold for nearly arbitrary bandwidth and solid boundary. It will be shown in Part II that these expressions represent either the evolution of a single three-dimensional wave group or the collision of two wave groups, according to the configuration of the solid boundary. The theory was developed in a series of papers starting on 1981. This paper presents the whole theory in a compact form thanks to a radical simplification of the mathematical proof.     

On the stability of the moments of the maximum entropy wind wave spectrum

The stability of some current wind wave parameters as a function of high-frequency cut-off and degrees of freedom of the spectrum has been numerically investigated when computed in terms of the moments of the wave energy spectrum.From the Pierson-Moskovitz wave spectrum type, a sea surface profile is simulated and its wave energy spectrum is estimated by the Maximum Entropy Method (MEM). As the degrees of freedom of the MEM spectral estimation are varied, the results show a much better stability of the wave parameters as compared to the classical periodogram and correlogram spectral approaches. The stability of wave parameters as a function of high-frequency cut-off result the same as obtained by the classical techniques.     

Short gravity and capillary wave spectra from tower-based radar

Radar backscatter measurements made as part of Project MARSEN in 1979 from the Noordwijk tower off the Dutch coast are used to calculate apparent ripple (capillary and short-gravity wave) spectra by inverting the small-perturbation scattering theory. The measurements were made at 10 and 15 GHz for angles of incidence ranging from20degto70deg; this means that the range of Bragg-resonant spatial wavenumbers covered is from 1.43 to 5.90 cm^-1. Results of coincidentC- andX-band experiments by the Institute Francais du Petrole (IFP) andX-band experiments by a group of Dutch researchers (TNO) are compared with our results and good general agreement is found. Our initial results show a steeper falloff of the spectra with increasing wavenumber than reported previously, particularly at low windspeeds. When the spectra are modified to account for the difference between previous aircraft and tower measurements [1], the observed spectra agree well with the appropriate part of Pierson's wave spectrum as modified by Fung and Lee [2].     

Probability distributions of wave heights in bimodal seas in an offshore basin

This study aims at assessing the adequacy for describing bimodal sea states of different non-linear probability distributions that have been developed for single sea states. It is based on data collected at an offshore test basin. The measurements represent three bimodal sea states with individual unidirectional wave systems propagating at 60, 90 and 120 from each other. The wave spectra are separated into swell and wind sea components and the relative energy ratio between the areas under the associated spectral curves is estimated and is related with the statistics of the time series considered. Dependence is found between the normalized high order cumulants, which describe the non-Gaussian surface, and the predominant contribution of the wind sea energy. Furthermore, the probabilities of exceedance of the individual wave heights are estimated and compared with the Rayleigh model and with other models that take into account either the effect of spectral bandwidth or the effect of wave nonlinearities. The results are discussed with respect to three classes of sea states that reflect the relative contribution of swell and wind sea energy.     

A comparison of observed and calculated directional wave spectra in the East China Sea

Directional wave spectra measured by a cloverleaf buoy in the East China Sea during AMTEX '75 have been compared with those calculated with the operational numerical MRI wave model developed at the Meteorological Research Institute of the Japan Meteorological Agency (J.M.A.). It is shown that the numerical wave model MRI can predict rather well, not only the frequency spectrum, but also the angular distribution function of the spectrum. The frequency dependence of the calculated angular distribution function is quite similar to that observed; the angular distribution is narrower for the spectral components near the peak spectral frequency but widens toward high frequencies and approaches the cos²-distribution.     

Numerical model simulations of continental shelf flows off northern California

The three-dimensional circulation on the continental shelf off northern California in the wind events and shelf transport (WEST) experiment region during summer 2001 is studied using the primitive equation regional ocean modeling system (ROMS). The simulations are performed with realistic topography and initial stratification in a limited-area domain with a high-resolution grid. Forcing consists of measured wind-stress and heat flux values obtained from a WEST surface buoy. The general response shows a southward coastal upwelling jet of up to and a weakening or reversal of currents inshore of the jet when upwelling winds relax. Model results are compared to WEST moored velocity and temperature measurements at five locations, to CODAR surface current observations between Pt. Reyes and Bodega Bay, and to hydrographic measurements along shipboard survey lines. The model performs reasonably well, with the highest depth-averaged velocity correlation (0.81) at the inshore mooring (40 m water depth) and lowest correlation (0.68) at the mid-depth mooring (90 m depth). The model shows generally stronger velocities than those observed, especially at the inshore moorings, and a lack in complete reversal of southward velocities observed when upwelling winds relax. The comparison of surface velocities with CODAR measurements shows good agreement of the mean and the dominant mode of variability. The hydrography compares closely at the southern and northern edges of the survey region (correlation coefficients between 0.90 and 0.97), with weaker correlations at the three interior survey lines (correlation coefficients between 0.44 and 0.76). Mean model fields over the summer upwelling period show slight coastal jet separation off Pt. Arena and significant separation off Pt. Reyes. The cape regions also experience relatively strong bottom velocities and nonlinearity in the surface flow. Across-shelf velocity sections examined along the shelf reveal a double jet structure that appears just north of Bodega Bay and shows the offshore jet strengthening to the south. We examine the dynamics during an upwelling and subsequent relaxation event in May 2001 in which the WEST measurements show evidence of a strong flow response. The alongshelf variability in the upwelling and relaxation response introduced by Pt. Reyes is evident. Analysis of term balances from the depth-averaged momentum equations helps to clarify the event dynamics in different regions over the shelf. A clear pattern in the nonlinear advection term is due to the spatial acceleration of the southward jet around the capes of Pt. Arena and Pt. Reyes during upwelling. Results from a three-dimensional Lagrangian analysis of water parcel displacement show significant southward displacement in the coastal jet region, including a strong signal from the double jet. Alongshelf variability in parcel displacements and upwelling source waters due to the presence of Pt. Arena and Pt. Reyes is also apparent from the Lagrangian fields. A cyclonic eddy-like recirculation feature offshore of Pt. Arena prior to the upwelling event causes large patches of onshore-displaced parcels. Additionally, across-shelf variability in the response of water parcels along the D line includes decreased vertical displacement and increased alongshelf displacement in the offshore direction.     

A case study of internal solitary wave propagation during ASIAEX 2001

During the recent Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment (ASIAEX), extensive current meter moorings were deployed around the continental shelf-break area in the northeastern South China Sea. Thirteen RADARSAT SAR images were collected during the field test to integrate with the in situ measurements from the moorings, ship-board sensors, and conductivity/temperatire/depth (CTD) casts. Besides providing a synoptic view of the entire region, satellite imagery is very useful for tracking the internal waves, locating surface fronts, and identifying mesoscale features. During ASIAEX in May 2001, many large internal waves were observed at the test area and were the major oceanic features studied for acoustic volume interaction. Based on the internal wave distribution maps compiled from satellite data, the wave crests can be as long as 200 km with an amplitude of 100 m. Environmental parameters have been calculated based on extensive CTD casts data near the ASIAEX area. Nonlinear internal wave models have been applied to integrate and assimilate both synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and mooring data. Using SAR data in deep water as an initial condition, numerical simulations produced the wave evolution on the continental shelf and compared reasonably well with the mooring measurements at the downstream station. The shoaling, turning, and dissipation of large internal waves at the shelf break have been studied and are very important issues for acoustic propagation.     

Detection of nonlinear waves and their contribution to ocean wave spectra Part II: Observation

This is a Part II of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. As shown in Part I, bound waves in deep sea are detectable by extracting secondorder Doppler spectra from the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio waves scattered from the sea surface. There is a remarkable agreement between the calculated and measured Doppler spectra, considering the noise levels in measured Doppler spectra and the uncertainties in directional properties. The theoretical expression for bound waves is thus verified. Furthermore, the upper limit in calculating the Doppler spectra for the second-order approximation is presented from field observations, although we cannot conclude that it is equivalent to the limitation of the second-order bound wave theory. It is shown that analysis of radio wave scattering by the sea surface is one useful means of understanding the nonlinear properties of ocean waves.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

A note on the theoretical comparison of wave staffs and wave rider buoys in steep gravity waves

The sea surface displacements measured by a wave staff, fixed in horizontal position, and a wave rider buoy, which moves with the water particles, are compared. Second-order theory shows that, to this approximation, the second harmonic in the surface displacement is not measured by the wave rider. Here a simple approximation to maximum amplitude gravity waves is considered; then a freely floating wave rider gives an approximately sinusoidal record at a lower frequency than the wave, while a tethered wave rider gives results depending on the mooring system. The horizontal motion of a tethered buoy still affects the measurements, particularly of the second and higher harmonics.     

Effects of stratification and mesoscale eddies on Kuroshio path variation south of Japan

Bimodality of the Kuroshio current path south of Japan is investigated, focusing on the effects of stratification and mesoscale eddies. For this purpose, wind-driven numerical experiments are executed in barotropic and two-layered ocean models. Stratification has two effects on the path selection of the Kuroshio south of Japan. First, it makes an alongshore path stable at intermediate wind stress strength τ₀ by arresting an eddy southeast of Kyushu. This enables an alongshore path to appear in the entire experimental range of τ₀. Second, the upper limit of τ₀ which allows a meandering path decreases from ( in the Sverdrup transport at the Tokara Strait) to () as Δρ/ρ₀ increases from 2.0×10^-3 to 4.0×10^-3. While an anticyclonic eddy imposed upstream (southeast of Kyushu) can cause the transition from an alongshore to a meandering path, it occurs most easily when (). The transition from a meandering to an alongshore path requires an eddy imposed downstream (east of the meandering segment) which suppresses redevelopment of the meandering segment and breaks the balance between the advective and beta effects. Applicability of the results to previously observed path variations is discussed.     

Measurements of static and dynamic mooring line damping and their importance for floating WEC devices

The dynamic response of the mooring line will be a dominant factor to consider in their use for the station keeping of a wave energy converter (WEC). Due to the relatively small size of WECs and their being moored in relatively shallow waters the effect of waves, tide and current can be of greater significance than for other floating offshore systems. Axial line stretching and high-frequency ‘top-end’ dynamics can importantly modify damping and top-end loading.If a ‘farm’ of devices is to be considered then limitations in sea space may necessitate that the devices be relatively densely packed. This will mean that the ‘footprint’ of the mooring should be constrained, to ensure that the moorings from each device do not interfere and this will have great significance for the loading experienced by the line. One must also consider how the mooring system might change the response of the WEC and so alter its ability to extract power from the waves. Unlike a typical offshore system, the design of moorings for a WEC device must consider reliability and survivability, and the need to ensure efficient energy conversion.The design and operation of a chain mooring for a WEC is considered here. Generic experimental measurements of mooring line damping were conducted in the Heriot-Watt University wave basin at a scale of 1:10. The measurements were conducted on a single mooring line for surge motions and include the study of axial stretching and high top-end dynamics. The laboratory procedures were designed to resemble tests undertaken earlier at ‘full’ scale in 24 m water depth. The measurements were also compared with numerical studies. The experimental findings for WEC devices, supports the conclusion that dynamic mooring line motion will be an important variable, needing to be considered carefully within the design.     

Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan

This paper presents an analysis of a set of available freak wave measurements gathered from several periods of continuous wave recordings made in the Sea of Japan during 1986–1990 by the Ship Research Institute of Japan. The analysis provides an ideal opportunity to catch a glimpse of the statistics of freak waves in the ocean. The results show that a well-defined freak wave may occur in the developed wind–wave condition: S(f)∝f⁻⁴, with single-peak directional spectra. The crest and trough amplitude distributions of the observed sea waves including freak waves are different from the Rayleigh distribution, although the wave height distribution tends to agree with the Rayleigh distribution. Freak waves can be readily identified from the wavelet spectrum where a strong energy density occurs in the spectrum, and is instantly surged and seemingly carried over to the high-frequency components at the instant the freak wave occurs.