Theoretical and measured aeolian sand transport on a barrier island, Louisiana, USA

Over the past 100 years, the Isles Dernieres, a low lying barrier island chain along the coast of central Louisiana, Usa , has undergone more than 1 km of northward beach face retreat with the loss of 70% of its surface area. The erosion results from a long term relative sea level rise coupled with day to day wind and wave action that ultimately favours erosion over deposition. At a site in the central Isles Dernieres, 8 days of wind and beach profile measurements during the passage of one winter cold front documented aeolian erosion and deposition patterns under both onshore and offshore winds. For offshore winds, the theoretical erosion rate, based on wind shear velocity, closely matched the measured erosion rate; for onshore winds, the theoretical rate matched the measured rate only after being corrected by a factor that accounted for beach face morphology. In late February 1989, a strong cold front moved into coastal Louisiana. That cold front stalled over the Gulf of Mexico, resulting in 4 days of strong northerly winds at a study site on the Isles Dernieres. During those 4 days, the wind moved sand from the backshore to the upper beach face. When the cold front finally moved out of the area, the wind shifted to the south and decreased in strength. The onshore wind then restored some of the upper beach face sand to the backshore while increased wave activity moved the rest into the nearshore. The theoretical estimate of 1·28 m³ m^?1 for the rate of sand transport by the northerly wind compares well with the measured backshore erosion rate of 1·26 m³ m^?1, which was determined by comparing beach profiles from the start and end of the period of northerly winds. The theoretical estimate of 0·04 m³ m^?1 for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind, however, is notably less than the measured rate of 0·45 m³ m^?1. The large discrepancy between the two rates can be explained by a difference in the shear velocity of the wind between the beach face, where the erosion occurred, and the backshore, where the wind stress was measured. Using an empirical relationship for the wind shear drag coefficient as a function of coastal environment, the theoretical estimate for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind becomes 0·44 m³ m^?1     

Characteristics of particle size for creeping and saltating sand grains in aeolian transport

Creep and saltation are the primary modes of surface transport involved in the fluid‐like movement of aeolian sands. Although numerous studies have focused on saltation, few studies have focused on creep, primarily because of the experimental difficulty and the limited amount of theoretical information available on this process. Grain size and its distribution characteristics are key controls on the modes of sand movement and their transport masses. Based on a series of wind tunnel experiments, this paper presents new data regarding the saltation flux, obtained using a flat sampler, and on the creeping mass, obtained using a specifically designed bed trap, associated with four friction velocities (0·41, 0·47, 0·55 and 0·61 m sec^?1). These data yielded information regarding creeping and saltating sand grains and their particle size characteristics at various heights, which led to the following conclusions: (i) the creeping masses increased as a power function (q = ?1·02 + 14·19u_*³) of friction wind velocities, with a correlation (R²) of 0·95; (ii) the flux of aeolian sand flow decreases exponentially with increasing height (q = a exp(–z/b)) and increases as a power function (q = ?26·30 + 428·40 u_*³) of the friction wind velocity; (iii) the particle size of creeping sand grains is ca 1·15 times of the mean diameter of salting sand grains at a height of 0 to 2 cm, which is 1·14 times of the mean diameter of sand grains in a bed; and (iv) the mean diameter of saltating sand grains decreases rapidly with increasing height whereas, while at a given height, the mean diameter of saltating sand grains is positively correlated with the friction wind velocity. Although these results require additional experimental validation, they provide new information for modelling of aeolian sand transport processes.     

Coastal dunes and strandplains in southeast Queensland: Sequence and chronology

Parabolic dunes invade coastal strandplains and overlie prior blown dunes in southeast Queensland. These coastal dune landscapes were produced primarily by real changes in wind strength and frequency. Sand movement began in past glacial ages and in the most recent instance persisted into Holocene time. Four interglacial shores are identified with marine isotope stages 5, 7, 9 and 11, and allow estimation of the ages of the dune and beach sands, by correlation with the EPICA Dome C ice core, as follows: Triangle dune sand, n.d.; Garawongera dune sand, 65 ka; Woorim beach sand, 125 ka; Bribie beach sand, 245 ka; Bowarrady dune sand, 270 ka; Poyungan beach sand, 335 ka; Yankee Jack dune sand, 360 ka; Ungowa beach sand, 410 ka; Awinya dune sand, 430 – 486 ka; Cooloola dune sand, >486 ka.     

The effect of surface moisture on the entrainment of dune sand by wind: an evaluation of selected models

Abstract Reliable predictions of wind erosion depend on the accuracy of determining whether erosion occurs or not. Among the several factors that govern the initiation of soil movement by wind, surface moisture is one of the most significant. Some widely used models that predict the threshold shear velocity for particle detachment of wet soils by wind were critically reviewed and evaluated. Wind‐tunnel experiments were conducted on pre‐wetted dune sand with moisture contents ranging from 0·00 to 0·04 kg kg^?1. Sand samples were exposed to different wind speeds for 2 min. Moisture content was determined gravimetrically before and after each experiment, and the saltation of sand particles was recorded electronically with a saltiphone. Shear velocities were deduced from the wind speed profiles. For each moisture content, the experiments were repeated at different shear velocities, with the threshold shear velocity being determined by least‐squares analysis of the relationships between particle number rates and shear velocity. Within the 2‐min test runs, temporal changes in particle number rates and moisture contents were detected. A steep increase in the threshold shear velocity with moisture content was observed. When comparing the models, large differences between the predicted results became apparent. At a moisture content of 0·007 kg kg^?1, which is half the moisture content retained to the soil matrix at a water tension (or matric potential) of ?1·5 MPa, the increase in ‘wet’ threshold shear velocity predicted with the different models relative to the dry threshold shear velocity ranged from 117% to 171%. The highest care should therefore be taken when using current models to predict the threshold shear velocity of wet sediment. Nevertheless, the models of Chepil (1956; Proc. Soil Sci. Soc. Am., 20, 288–292) and Saleh & Fryrear (1995; Soil Sci., 160, 304–309) are the best alternatives available.     

Relations between dune morphology, air flow, and sediment flux on reversing dunes, Silver Peak, Nevada

Relations between wind speed, sediment flux and dune morphology were measured for two reversing dunes situated in the south-western part of the Silver Peak dunefield in Clayton Valley, west-central Nevada. The larger dune was 120 m in length with a height of 12.5 m and the smaller dune 80 m long and 6 m high. Both dunes were sharp crested, aligned approximately E-W perpendicular to the dominant wind direction, and had slightly concave stoss profiles. Twenty-seven rotating cup anemometers were placed (0.3 m elevation) along N-S transects on each of the dunes. At each anemometer site a passive wedge-shaped sediment trap was used to measure sediment flux. Amplification of wind speed was observed towards the crest on the stoss side of both dunes with speed-up factors (u_crest/U_base) ranging from 1·50–3·19, with a corresponding increase in sediment flux by 1–2 orders of magnitude. In general, the ratio of crest flux to base flux (q_c/q_t,) increased with increasing incident basal wind speed on both dunes. Direct measurements of the stoss slope variation in sediment flux relative to the dune crest are in good agreement with Owen's transport model. Friction speed (u) was approximated from near surface (0·3 m) point wind speed. Although not all assumptions of the Owen model are upheld, the modified model performance is sufficiently robust to predict short-term variation in stoss sediment flux on the study dunes. Improved models that adequately account for variation in sediment flux under changing air flow and transport conditions are necessary for the prediction of longterm evolution of dunes. In this regard, further progress in model development will require increased understanding of the spatial and temporal variability of airflow and the short term response of sediment flux to these flow conditions.     

Experimental study of sand streaks formed in turbulent boundary layers

Fine- to medium-grained sand transported as bedload moves in lanes parallel to the flow that are thought to be preserved as parting lineation. A series of six flume experiments was designed to discover the morphology and spacing of these lanes, here called sand streaks, as functions of local shear velocity, U* (9 × 10^-3 to 4.8 × 10^-2 m s^-1), depth (5 × 10^-2 and 9.5 × 10^-2 m), mean grain diameter (150, 200, 290, 1380 μm), and sediment bedload concentration (0.0–0.39). Low U* flows produce predominantly straight, non-intersecting sand streaks, moderate U* flows produce sub-parallel and en échelon sand streaks, and moderate to high U* flows produce wavy sand streaks and secondary streaks with a spacing an order of magnitude larger. The wavy sand streaks are thought to be composed of sand grains in suspension close to the bed. An upper grain-size limit for the sand streak structure occurs at a grain size between 290 and 1380μm. The spacings of the fine-and medium-grained sand streaks, at low to moderate U* (0.9 × 10^-2 to 3 × 10^-2m s^-1), are similar to those predicted for low-speed fluid streaks, although the fine-grained sand forms more closely-spaced streaks than the medium-grained sand. The spacings of sand streaks formed at moderate to high U* and at bedload concentrations greater than 0.15, are wider than those predicted for the low-speed fluid streaks. The wider spacing is thought to reflect a new type of flow immediately above the moving bed layer in which the formation of low-speed streaks is inhibited. This results from an increase in either grain concentration or grain size. The spacing of parting lineation, also wider than that predicted for low-speed streaks, may reflect this.     

Rate and budget of blown sand movement along the western bank of Lake Nasser,southern Egypt

Three sets of Landsat? satellite images for the years 1993, 1998, and 2003 show that the sand dunes at the southwestern Desert of Egypt are generally moving towards southeast direction with a mean annual creeping speed over ground attaining 15 m/year. The manual-stickled field measurements show that the net annual extension of the longitudinal dunes in the coastal area is between 4 and 5 m/year, while the inland longitudinal dunes showed a net movement ranging between 5 and 6 m/year. Seasonal variations of drift potential and sand movement refer to a strongly high energy wind desert environment in the spring season, high energy wind desert environment in the summer season, and relatively high to intermediate in the autumn and winter seasons, respectively. The total annual estimated volume of transported sand which falls down into Lake Nasser basin attains 16,225,808 m³ as calculated by Bagnold's equation and quantities of sand collected from the sand traps. Comparing this value with the total volume of Lake Nasser Basin, which attains 120?×?10⁹ m³, we can conclude that the sand sheets or sand accumulations may represent serious natural hazards to Lake Nasser in some locations. However, the sand drifting towards the lake may be obstructed by high contour topography hindrance, and the mean grain size of the sand sheets is bigger than 0.25 mm, which needs high wind velocity more than 4 m/s. In addition, the direction of the prevailing wind is N-NNW to S-SSE, and this direction sometimes is parallel to Lake Nasser in some places according to the meandering of the lake. The total lengths of hazardous areas along the western bank of Lake Nasser, which receive the most amounts of the drifted sands, attain 43.6 km only.     

Field measurements of the flux and speed of wind-blown sand

A field experiment was conducted to measure the flux and speed of wind-blown sand under known conditions in a natural setting. The experiment, run at Pismo Beach, California, involved a tract 100 m long (parallel with the wind) by 20 m wide. The site was instrumented with four arrays of anemometers to obtain wind velocity profiles through the lower atmospheric boundary-layer, temperature probes to determine atmospheric stability and wind vanes to determine wind direction. From these measurements, wind friction speeds were derived for each experimental run. In order to measure sand saltation flux, a trench 3 m long by 10 m wide (transverse to the wind direction) by 0·5 m deep was placed at the downwind end of the tract and lined with 168 collector bins, forming an ‘egg-box’ pattern. The mass of particles collected in each bin was determined for four experimental runs. In order to assess various sand-trap systems used in previous experiments, 12 Leatherman traps, one Fryberger trap and one array of Ames traps were deployed to collect particles concurrently with the trench collection. Particle velocities were determined from analysis of high-speed (3000 and 5000 frames per second) motion pictures and from a particle velocimeter. Sand samples were collected from the trench bins and the various sand traps and grain size distributions were determined. Fluxes for each run were calculated using various previously published expressions, and then compared with the flux derived from the trench collection. Results show that Bagnold's (1941) model and White's (1979) equation most closely agree with values derived from the trench. Comparison of the various collector systems shows that the Leatherman and Ames traps most closely agree with the flux derived from the trench, although these systems tended to under-collect particles. Particle speeds were measured from analysis of motion pictures for saltating particles in ascending and descending parts of their trajectories. Results show that particle velocities from the velocimeter are in the range 0·5–7·0 m s^?1, compared to a wind friction velocity of 0·32–0·43 m s^?1 and a wind velocity of 2·7–3·9 m s^?1 at the height of the particle measurements. Descending particles tended to exceed the speeds of ascending particles by ～ 0·5 m s^?1.     

Microbial influence on erosion,grain transport and bedform genesis in sandy substrates under unidirectional flow

Interpreting the physical dynamics of ancient environments requires an understanding of how current‐generated sedimentary structures, such as ripples and dunes, are created. Traditional interpretations of these structures are based on experimental flume studies of unconsolidated quartz sand, in which stepwise increases in flow velocity yield a suite of sedimentary structures analogous to those found in the rock record. Yet cyanobacteria, which were excluded from these studies, are pervasive in wet sandy environments and secrete sufficient extracellular polysaccharides to inhibit grain movement and markedly change the conditions under which sedimentary structures form. Here, the results of flume experiments using cyanobacteria‐inoculated quartz sand are reported which demonstrate that microbes strongly influence the behaviour of unconsolidated sand. In medium sand, thin (ca 0·1 to 0·5 mm thick) microbial communities growing at the sediment–water interface can nearly double the flow velocity required to produce the traditional sequence of ripple→dune→plane‐bed lamination bedforms. In some cases, these thin film‐like microbial communities can inhibit the growth of ripples or dunes entirely, and instead bed shear stresses result in flip‐over and rip‐up structures. Thicker (ca≥1 mm thick) microbial mats mediate terracing of erosional edges; they also, foster transport of multi‐grain aggregates and yield a bedform progression consisting of flip‐overs→roll‐ups→rip‐ups of bound sand.     

Deflection of sand movement on a sinuous longitudinal (seif) dune: use of fluorescent dye as tracer

Sand was marked by fluorescent dye in order to trace sand movement and deposition on a longitudinal (seif) sand dune in the Sinai desert. The wind regime was monitored simultaneously. Tracing the dyed sand was possible after light to moderate sand storms and was graphically represented on maps.The dune was subjected to a seasonally bidirectional wind regime, with the wind hitting the dune obliquely on either side. On the windward flank the sand was transported parallel to the wind direction. On the lee flank sand movement was deflected towards parallelism with the crest line. Sand movement was deflected if the dune had a sharp profile which favored separation of wind flow on the lee flank. The deflection depended on the angle of incidence between the wind and the crest line: when the angle of incidence was < 40°, sand on the lee flank was transported parallel to the crest line; when the angle of incidence was nearly perpendicular to the crest, movement along the lee flank abated and deposition occurred. Where the dune was low, flat and blunt, as in a zibar dune, there was no boundary-layer separation and no deflection of sand movement on the lee flank. The deflected movement along the lee flank resulted in elongation of the longitudinal (seif) dune.     

A sand budget for the Alexandria coastal dunefield, South Africa

The sand in the Alexandria coastal dunefield is derived from the sandy beach which forms the seaward boundary of the dunefield. Sand is blown off the beach onto the dunefield by the high-energy onshore-directed dominant wind. The dunefield has been forming over the past 6500 years. Sand transport rates calculated from dune movement rates and wind data range from 15 to 30 m³ m ^-1 yr^-1 in an ENE direction. The sand transport rate decreases with increasing distance from the sea due to a reduction in wind speed resulting from the higher drag imposed upon the wind by the land surface. Aeolian sand movement rates of this order are typical of dunefields around the world. The total volume of sand blown into the dunefield is 375 000 m³ yr^-1. Sand is being lost to the sea by wave erosion along the eastern third of the dunefield at a rate of 45 000 m³ yr ^-1. The dunefield thus gains 330 000 m³ of sand per year. This results in dunefield growth by vertical accretion at about 1.5 mm yr^-1 and landward movement at about 0.25 m yr^-1. The dunefield is a significant sand sink in the coastal sand transport system. The rate of deposition in coastal dunefields can be 10 times as high as rates of deposition in continental sand seas. The higher rate of deposition may result from the abundant sand supply on sandy beaches, and the higher energy of coastal winds. Wind transport is slow and steady compared to fluvial or longshore drift transport of sediment, and catastrophic aeolian events do not seem to be significant in wind-laid deposits.     

Ripple formation in combined transdirectional steady and oscillatory flow

Measurements are described of the geometry of ripples formed on beds of sand exposed to a steady current at right angles to an oscillatory flow. Four different sands were studied. The oscillation was produced by an oscillating tray set into the bed of a steady-flow flume. It was observed that straight-crested ripples formed by oscillatory flow would usually develop a ‘serpentine’ form when the superimposed steady current exceeded a certain limit. For amplitudes of the tray velocity U_∞ less than about 0.38 m s^-1 this limit corresponded to U_∞/ū_*c>31, where ū_*c is the shear velocity measured just upstream of the oscillating tray. It is suggested that the serpentine form is caused by the interaction of vortices carried back and forth between adjacent ripples. On this assumption, the wavelength of the serpentine form would be proportional to the product of period of oscillation and near-bed steady current velocity. The present measurements appear to support this hypothesis although there is also evidence that the wavelength is influenced by preferred spacing patterns between vortices. The measurements also show the ratio of the amplitude of the serpentine form to its wavelength to be approximately constant. Empirical relationships are derived relating ripple geometry to flow and sediment properties. It is observed that the influence of Reynolds number and sediment properties on the geometry is very weak. It is suggested that this is typical of ripples formed with relatively low sediment transport rates. It is also found that, under the present experimental conditions, the ripple spacing in the direction of oscillation is almost independent of the magnitude of the steady current and in close agreement with the wavelengths previously measured in an oscillating water tunnel. This suggests that the additional inertia effects associated with oscillating tray rigs were not sufficient to affect bed geometry under the present test conditions.     

Aerodynamic entrainment threshold: effects of boundary layer flow conditions

Experimental data are presented demonstrating the influence of boundary layer flow conditions on aerodynamic entrainment of grains in the absence of intersaltation collisions. New methods are proposed for (1) the unambiguous determination of aerodynamic threshold for any grain population and (2) approximation of the probability density function (PDF) distributions of threshold shear velocity for aerodynamic entrainment. In wind tunnel experiments, the orderly spatial development of flow conditions within a developing boundary layer over the roughened surface of a flat plate constrains the aerodynamic threshold condition in terms of both mean and fluctuating values. Initial grain dislodgements and subsequent erosion from narrow strips of loose, finely fractionated ballotini were recorded photographically as wind speed was increased. Boundary layer parameters, including average threshold shear velocity (U_*t), were calculated using the momentum integral method. Direct observations show that sporadic oscillation of grains preceded dislodgement. At slightly higher velocities most grains rolled over their neighbours before entering saltation. Initial entrainment in spatially semi-organized flurries of 50 or more grains was followed by quiescent periods at airflow velocities close to threshold. These observations provide strong circumstantial evidence linking both the nature and spatial pattern of initial grain motions to sweep events during the fluid bursting process. For each grain fraction, values of U_*t were found to span an unexpectedly wide range and to decrease downwind from the leading edge of the plate as turbulence intensity increased. A probabilistic entrainment model is applied to the aerodynamic threshold condition so as to incorporate the effects of changing turbulent flow regimes over the plate. Analysis of strip erosion curves gives both an objective definition of the threshold condition and usable approximations of the PDF for U_*t required by the model and for future stochastic treatment of the threshold condition.     

Effect of source width and tidal elevation changes on aeolian transport on an estuarine beach

Data from a moderate energy, meso-tidal beach on the east side of Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA, revealed the significance of both beach width as a source for aeolian transport and the effect of tidal rise on source width. Wind speeds averaged over 17·1 min, recorded 6 m above the crest of a 0·5 m high dune, ranged from 11·6 to 12·7 m s^?1 during the experiment. The highest observed rate of transport on the beach was 0·0085 kg m^?1 s^?1, monitored at rising low tide when the average wind speed was 11·6 m s^?1 across 0·35 mm diameter surface sediments. The wind direction was oblique to the shoreline, creating a source width of 34 m. The reduction in the width of the beach as a source for aeolian transport during rising tide was approximately arithmetic, whereas the reduction in volume of sediment trapped was exponential. Aeolian transport effectively ceased when source width was less than 8 m. Wind conditions, moisture content of the surface sediments and presence of binding salts did not appear to vary dramatically, and no coarse grained lag deposit formed on the surface of the beach. The decrease in rate of sediment trapped through time in the tidal cycle is attributed to differences in source width. Sediment deposited in the litter behind the active beach by strong winds during the rising tide was eroded during the high water period by the high waves and storm surge generated by these winds, and net losses of sediment were observed despite initial aeolian accretion.     

The stability of sublittoral, fine-grained sediments in a subarctic estuary

The erodibility of natural estuarine sediments was measured in sit along a longitudinal transect of Manitounuk Sound, Hudson Bay, using the benthic flume Sea Carousel. Sedimentation processes along the transect varied from continuous, rapid, post-glacial sedimentation in the inner Sound, to glacial outcrops and seabed reworking of the outer Sound. The grain size and physical bulk properties reflect changes in depositional environment and correlate with sediment erosion threshold stress (τ_c), erosion rate (E), erosion type and still-water mass settling rate. There was a steady increase in τ_c (0·8–2·0 Pa) with distance down the Sound in parallel with the decreasing sedimentation rate (0·003–0·001 m yr^?1) and increasing sediment bulk density (1650–2010 kg m^?3). The near-surface friction coefficient varied up to 68° in proportion to the clay content of post-glacial material. Glacial sediments were characterized by variable results and generally higher friction coefficients. Seabed erosion in Sea Carousel began with surface creep of loose aggregates, pellets and organic debris. This was followed by Type I bed erosion at rates that varied between 0·0002 and 0·0032 kg m^?2 s^?1 (mean 0·0015). Type I peak erosion rate was inversely related to applied bed shear stress (τ_o). Type II erosion succeeded Type I, often after a broad transitional period. Simulations of suspended sediment concentration in Sea Carousel were made using four commonly used erosion (E) algorithms. The best results were obtained using Krone's dimensionless ratio relationship: E=M(τ_o/τ_c-1). Simulations were highly sensitive to the definition of erosion threshold with sediment depth [τ_c(z)]. Small errors in definition of τ_c(z) caused large errors in the prediction of suspended sediment concentration which far exceeded differences between the methods tested.     

Entrainment of planktonic foraminifera: effect of bulk density

Depositional hydrodynamics have been studied using settling rate distributions of Norwegian deep sea sediments (between Jan Mayen Island and the Vøring Plateau), together with Shields’ critical shear stress velocities. Planktonic foraminifera are the dominant sand sized component of these sediments. The bulk density of the foraminifera was calculated from their settling velocity, sieve size and shape. Density decreases from 2·39 g cm^?3 at 0·05 mm diameter to 1·37 g cm^?3 at 0·35 mm diameter. These density and size data were used to construct a threshold sediment movement curve. From the similarity in their Shield's critical shear-stress velocities and the observed correlation of foraminifera size with decreasing percentage of fine fraction, it is concluded that the two components, the sand size foraminifera and the quartz and carbonate silt, are transport-equivalent.     

昌黎海岸风成沙丘砂组构特征及其与海滩砂的比较

对昌黎海岸沙丘砂进行薄片统计,重砂矿物分析,电镜扫描,粒度分析及与海滩砂的对比研究发现,沙丘砂在物质组成、颗粒形态、石英砂表面结构特征和粒度特征方面均继承了海滩砂特征,不过,海滩砂中也有沙丘砂的某些特征,反映了两者沉积的混合。这是由于向岸风和离岸风共同作用的结果。     

Berm development on a monsoon-influenced microtidal beach

The mechanisms of berm development along a microtidal-high energy beach is examined. Such a beach with medium-sized sand and monsoon wave-controlled profile at Valiathura, south-west coast of India, is selected for this study. The waves which very rarely fall below 1 m, often exceed 4 m during the monsoon period of May to October. The erosion-accretion pattern of the beach shows a cyclicity and the berm development is mainly due to the onshore migration and welding of longshore bars on to the beach following the monsoon rough season. The stages of berm development in the present microtidal beach are more or less similar to the model presented by Hine for a mesotidal case, except for the following intermediate additional stages. The longshore bar develops due to the erosion of beach when the wave steepness was above 0·04, gets flattened when it falls below 0·04, and then reforms nearer to the shoreline as a swash bar. This reformed bar gets divided and the inner bar gets welded on to the beach, followed by the outer bar developing the berm. During the onshore migration of the longshore bar and berm development the beach face becomes partially reflective with the surf scaling parameter, ε_b between 2·5 and 33. The inshore is dissipative with the inshore surf scaling parameter, ε_s?33. The offshore side of the longshore bar is partially reflective with its surf scaling parameter, ε_bar between 2·5 and 33. The breakers are spilling or plunging. Vertical growth of the berm is mainly due to the changes in swash-limit caused by the variations in wave steepness, breaker height and type. Vertical growth stops when the beach-face attains equilibrium with the grain size-wave energy relationship, and a wave steepness below 0·02 helps to sustain this state.     

A comparison between Shields' threshold criterion and the movement of loosely packed gravel in a tidal channel

Observations of the threshold of movement of loosely packed gravel in a tidal current are described. For gravel with equivalent ‘spherical’ diameters D in the range 0.2 ?D? 5.0cm the critical friction velocity u*_c, corresponding to the initiation of sediment transport, is given by u*_c=7.0 D^0.2. At large values of D within the quoted range, the value u*_c is significantly lower than would be obtained by a Shields experiment (u*_c∞D^0.5). By comparing our values of u*_c with those obtained under well-controlled laboratory conditions, the discrepancy with Shields is shown to be due to the open spacing between, and exposure of, individual pebbles on the seabed. By comparing our results with those from upland gravel streams and flume experiments, it is suggested that Shields assumed an excessively large water depth to particle size ratio as a constraint within which the critical sediment entrainment number 0_c is valid.     

Disturbance of beach sediment by off-road vehicles

A three-year investigation was undertaken to examine the effects of off-road vehicles (ORVs) on the beach at Fire Island, New York. Within the National Seashore over 45,000 vehicle trips per year are concentrated in the zone seaward of the dune toe. The experimental approach was adopted in order to assess the environmental effects of ORVs. Specially developed instrumentation was used to measure the direct displacement of sand by vehicles traversing the beach. Direct displacement data were reduced graphically and analyzed by stepwise linear regression. The results of 89 field experiments (788 cases) showed that slope, sand compaction, and number of vehicle passes in the same track were the principal factors controlling the measured net seaward displacement of sand. The data suggest that ORV use levels within the National Seashore could be contributing to the overall erosion rate by delivering large quantities of sand to the swash zone (max. of 119,300 m³/yr). However, with proper management downslope movement of sand could be reduced by an order of magnitude. While vehicular passage over the open beach displaces sand seaward, it is not known if such activity actually increases the amount of erosion, measured as net loss to the beach face.