Boussinesq–Green–Naghdi rotational water wave theory

Using Boussinesq scaling for water waves while imposing no constraints on rotationality, we derive and test model equations for nonlinear water wave transformation over varying depth. These use polynomial basis functions to create velocity profiles which are inserted into the basic equations of motion keeping terms up to the desired Boussinesq scaling order, and solved in a weighted residual sense. The models show rapid convergence to exact solutions for linear dispersion, shoaling, and orbital velocities; however, properties may be substantially improved for a given order of approximation using asymptotic rearrangements. This improvement is accomplished using the large numbers of degrees of freedom inherent in the definitions of the polynomial basis functions either to match additional terms in a Taylor series, or to minimize errors over a range. Explicit coefficients are given at O(μ²) and O(μ⁴), while more generalized basis functions are given at higher order. Nonlinear performance is somewhat more limited as, for reasons of complexity, we only provide explicitly lower order nonlinear terms. Still, second order harmonics may remain good to kh ≈ 10 for O(μ⁴) equations. Numerical tests for wave transformation over a shoal show good agreement with experiments. Future work will harness the full rotational performance of these systems by incorporating turbulent and viscous stresses into the equations, making them into surf zone models.     

Assessment of hydrodynamic competence in extreme marine events through application of Boussinesq–Green–Naghdi models

Here in present work, rotational Boussinesq–Green–Naghdi models were applied to assess the hydrodynamic intensity through the study of the boulder transport in east coast of Philippines during typhoon Haiyan and damage to coastal residences in New Jersey coast due to hurricane Sandy. The hydrodynamic forces were quantitatively analyzed and correlated to both boulder transport distance and the structural damage state in the two cases. The boulder transport was found initiated at vicinity of infragravity swash bores. Inertial force generated by the acceleration in front of the bore was found increasingly large as boulder sizes increased therefore far from negligible as in some other literatures. Besides, transport distances were highly sensitive to wave-heights and boulder sizes, so that onshore positions might be a viable approach of identifying rough magnitudes of paleostorm before other information is available. Fragility functions to predict the damage state of coastal residences due to runups was derived and preliminary validated. Water velocity and the shielding parameter were identified as major predictors of damage while free board and water depth are relatively insignificant. Due to the relative lack of wind damage observed, nearshore hydrodynamics featuring instantaneous nonhydrostatic impact might be the persistent cause of massive littoral processes and low-level structural failure in coastal regions during extreme marine events. Nonhydrostatic phase-resolving models such as Boussinesq-type models would be necessary complements for the intermediate-scale assessment of marine hazards in coastal ocean.     

The numerical simulation of Pacific Ocean circulation with five-level model

A five-level oceanic primitive equation model has been developed. This model is integrated numerically with annual mean wind stress and heat flux at sea surface for 30 a. The ocean circulations tend to quasi-stability. The simulated results show that the computed annual mean currents and sea surface temperature agree well with the observations.     

A Eulerian–Lagrangian method for the simulation of wave propagation

A Eulerian–Lagrangian method (ELM) is employed for the simulation of wave propagation in the present research. The wave action conservation equation, instead of the wave energy balance equation, is used. The wave action is conservative and the action flux remains constant along the wave rays. The ELM correctly accounts for this physical characteristic of wave propagation and integrates the wave action spectrum along the wave rays. Thus, the total derivative for wave action spectrum may be introduced into the numerical scheme and the complicated partial differential wave action balance equation is simplified into an ordinary differential equation. A number of test cases on wave propagation are carried out and show that the present method is stable, accurate and efficient. The results are compared with analytical solutions and/or other computed results. It is shown that the ELM is superior to the first-order upwind method in accuracy, stability and efficiency and may better reflect the complicated dynamics due to the complicated bathymetry features in shallow water areas.     

Numerical simulation of waves generated by landslides using a multiple-fluid Navier–Stokes model

This work reports on the application and experimental validation, for idealized geometries, of a multiple-fluid Navier–Stokes model of waves generated by rigid and deforming slides, with the purpose of improving predictive simulations of landslide tsunamis. In such simulations, the computational domain is divided into water, air, and slide regions, all treated as Newtonian fluids. For rigid slides, a penalty method allows for parts of the fluid domain to behave as a solid. With the latter method, the coupling between a rigid slide and water is implicitly computed (rather than specifying a known slide kinematics). Two different Volume of Fluid algorithms are tested for tracking interfaces between actual fluid regions. The simulated kinematics of a semi-elliptical block, moving down a water covered plane slope, is first compared to an earlier analytical solution. Results for the vertical fall of a rectangular block in water are then compared to earlier experimental results. Finally, more realistic simulations of two- and three-dimensional wedges sliding down an incline are compared to earlier experiments. Overall, in all cases, solid block velocities and free surface deformations are accurately reproduced in the model, provided that a sufficiently resolved discretization is used. The potential of the model is then illustrated on more complex scenarios involving waves caused by multi-block or deformable slides.     

Numerical simulation of local scour around two pipelines in tandem using CFD–DEM method

In the field of offshore oil and gas engineering, the arrangement of multiple pipelines are becoming more common, the spacing between the pipelines and the incoming stream velocity will significantly affect the scouring process around the pipelines. In this study, the effect of space ratio (G/D) and the stream velocity on the scouring process around two pipelines in tandem are investigated using the coupled approach of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and discrete element method (DEM). Here G is the spacing between the pipelines and D is the diameter of the pipeline. Specifically, the effect of space ratio and the stream velocity are discussed by simulating the gap ratio (G/D) between two pipelines ranging from 1 to 3 with an interval of 1, under the stream velocity U = 0.5,1 and 2 m/s, The results indicate that when G/D ≤ 2, the equilibrium scour depth below the upstream pipeline (S1) is slightly larger than that under the downstream pipeline (S2), S1 and S2 slightly increase as the gap ratio increases. Whereas for G/D > 2, the equilibrium scour depth beneath the upstream pipeline is slightly smaller than that under the downstream pipeline, S1 and S2 slightly decrease as the gap ratio increases. Furthermore, the scour depths are highly dependent on and positively related to the incoming stream velocity, the equilibrium bed profiles are similar under the same incident stream velocity with different gap ratios.     

A Lagrangian mean theory on coastal sea circulation with inter-tidal transports Ⅱ. Numerical Experiments

The results of the new concept of coastal sea circulation are demonstrated by numerical simulations for the first time. The numerical experiments in three types of rectangular model seas illustrate the dependence of circulation on tidal phases due to the convectively nonlinear effect which is estimated by a newly defined drift dispersion index. Then, the present theory is applied in the Bohai Sea of China. At the Bohai Straits and the Huanghe River mouth area the circulation direction even reverses owing to different initial tidal phases which shows that the theory copes with nonlinearity well. The calculated M2 tideinduced residual circulation shows that a clockwise gyre exists in the center of an anticlockwise gyre in the central Bohai Sea due to the topographic features. In the Bohai Gulf the tide induced circulation shows a 3D structure with outflow at the surface and the inflow at the bottom which can partly explains the spread of the Huanghe River fresh water out of the Bohai Gulf and the inflow of the sediment from the Huanghe River.     

A Lagrangian mean theory on coastal sea circulation with inter-tidal transports Ⅱ. Numerical Experiments

The results of the new concept of coastal sea circulation are demonstrated by numerical simulations for the first time. The numerical experiments in three types of rectangular model seas illustrate the dependence of circulation on tidal phases due to the convectively nonlinear effect which is estimated by a newly defined drift dispersion in-dex. Then, the present theory is applied in the Bohai Sea of China. At the Bohai Straits and the Huanghe River mouth area the circulation direction even reverses owing to different initial tidal phases which shows that the the-ory copes with nonlinearity well. The calculated M2 tide-induced residual circulation shows that a clockwise gyre exists in the center of an anticlockwise gyre in the central Bohai Sea due to the topographic features. In the Bo-hai Gulf the tide induced circulation shows a 3D structure with outflow at the surface and the inflow at the bottom which can partly explains the spread of the Huanghe River fresh water out of the Bohai Gulf and the inflow of the sediment from the Huanghe River.     

Numerical simulation of nonlinear dispersive waves propagating over a submerged bar by IB–VOF model

It is a good test for a numerical model to simulate progressive waves propagating over a submerged bar with a relatively high ratio of slopes. In this paper, the combined IB–VOF model is used to predict nonlinear dispersive waves propagating over a submerged bar with both slopes of 1:2. The predicted free surface elevations are compared with the experimental data and numerical results presented by other researchers. The comparison shows that the IB–VOF model is able to provide satisfactory wave profiles in the shallow water with strong nonlinear effects and in the wave transmitted region with strong wave dispersion in particular. Moreover, the wave evolution behind the submerged bar is described in detail, including the spatial wave profile modulation, spectral analysis of the time-series waves, flow velocity and pressure fields, and kinetic energy distribution. The effect of fluid viscosity on the numerical simulations is also studied, and it is found that the effect on the wave evolution considered in this paper is not significant. Finally, the hydrodynamic force acting on the bar is calculated using the IB–VOF model.     

Numerical simulation of the world ocean circulation and its climatic variability for 1948–2007 using the INMOM

The results of simulating global ocean circulation and its interannual variability in 1948–2007 using INM RAS ocean general circulation model INMOM (Institute of Numerical Mathematics Ocean Model) are presented. One of the INMOM versions is also used for the Black Sea dynamics simulation. The CORE datasets were used to set realistic atmospheric forcing. Sea ice area decrease by 2007 was reproduced in the Arctic Ocean that is in good agreement with observations. The interdecadal climatic variability was revealed with significant decrease of Atlantic thermohaline circulation (ATHC) and meridional heat transport (MHT) in North Atlantic (NA) since the late 1990’s. MHT presents decrease of heat transport from NA to the atmosphere since the mid-1990’s. Therefore the negative feedback is revealed in the Earth climate system that leads to reducing of climate warming caused primarily by anthropogenic factor for the last decades. Long-term variability (60 years) of ATHC is revealed as well which influences NA thermal state with 10 year delay. The assumption is argued that this mechanism can make a contribution in the ATHC own long-term variability.     

Strength characteristics of cemented sand–bentonite mixtures with fiber and metakaolin additions

Compacted sand–bentonite mixtures have been used as a good alternative hydraulic barrier material to compacted clays. This study presents the results of a laboratory investigation on the strength characteristics of cement-stabilized sand–bentonite (CSB) mixtures and the effects of adding small amounts of fibers and metakaolin to the mixture material for strength improvement. The strength characteristics of the mixture materials were examined using unconfined compressive strength (UCS) tests and splitting tensile strength (STS) tests, with emphasis on evaluating the effects of different proportions of bentonite, fibers, and metakaolin within the CSB mixtures with a constant value of cement content. The test results indicated that the maximum improvements in UCS and STS were all attained in the CSB mixture with 10% bentonite content, and the inclusion of fibers and metakaolin of 1% each within the same CSB mixture led to an increase in UCS of about 40 and 70%, respectively. The addition of fibers also increased the ductility of the mixture material and was more effective for the improvement of tensile strength compared to that of metakaolin. The contribution of metakaolin to early-age strength (i.e., 3 and 7 days) of CSB mixture was found to be small due to the relatively low cement content in the mixture.     

Velocity Field of the Oyashio Region Observed with Satellite-Tracked Surface Drifters during 1999–2000

Based on the surface drifters that moved out from the Sea of Okhotsk to the Pacific, the surface velocity fields of mean, eddy, and tidal components in the Oyashio region are examined for the period September 1999 to August 2000. Along the southern Kuril Island Chain, the Oyashio Current, having a width of ∼100 km, exists with velocities of 0.2–0.4 m s⁻¹. From 40°N to 43°N, the Subarctic Current flows east- or northeastward with velocities of 0.1–0.3 m s⁻¹, accompanied by a meandering Oyashio or Subarctic front. Between the Oyashio and Subarctic current regions, an eddy-dominant region exists with both cyclonic and anticyclonic eddies. The existence of an eastward flow just south of Bussol' Strait is suggested. The 2000 anticyclonic warmcore ring located south of Hokkaido was found to have a nearly symmetric velocity structure with a maximum velocity of ∼0.7 m s⁻¹ at 70 km from the eddy center. Diurnal tidal currents with a clockwise tidal ellipse are amplified over the shelf and slope off Urup and Iturup Islands, suggesting the presence of diurnal shelf waves. From Lagrangian statistics, the single-particle diffusivity is estimated to be ∼10 × 10⁷ cm²s⁻¹.     

Numerical simulation of water circulation in the central part of the Sea of Japan and study of its long-term variability in 1958–2006

The response of circulation in the Sea of Japan (SJ) to the CORE-calculated real atmospheric forcing for 1958–2006 is reconstructed using the general ocean circulation model developed at the Institute of Computational Mathematics, Russian Academy of Sciences (ICM RAS). Features of the interannual variability of the circulation in the intermediate and deep layers of the central part of SJ are studied from the numerical simulation results. For this, the spatiotemporal variability of the relative vorticity is calculated. Frequency spectra of this variability are calculated at depths of 500 and 800 m and the layer-average between these levels. The spectra have a quasi-discrete structure with maxima in vicinities of 4–5, 7, and 10-year periods. Coincidence is ascertained between frequencies corresponding to these periods and earlier determined frequencies of the inter-annual variability of the temperature field observed in the intermediate layer of the SJ in the second half of the 20th century.     

Documenting channel features associated with gas hydrates in the Krishna–Godavari Basin,offshore India

During the India National Gas Hydrate Program (NGHP) Expedition 01 in 2006 significant sand and gas hydrate were recovered at Site NGHP-01-15 within the Krishna–Godavari Basin, East Coast off India. At the drill site NGHP-01-15, a 5–8 m thick interval was found that is characterized by higher sand content than anywhere else at the site and within the KG Basin. Gas hydrate concentrations were determined to be 20–40% of the pore volume using wire-line electrical resistivity data as well as core-derived pore-fluid freshening trends. The gas hydrate-bearing interval was linked to a prominent seismic reflection observed in the 3D seismic data. This reflection event, mapped for about 1 km² south of the drill site, is bound by a fault at its northern limit that may act as migration conduit for free gas to enter the gas hydrate stability zone (GHSZ) and subsequently charge the sand-rich layer. On 3D and additional regional 2D seismic data a prominent channel system was imaged mainly by using the seismic instantaneous amplitude attribute. The channel can be clearly identified by changes in the seismic character of the channel fill (sand-rich) and pronounced levees (less sand content than in the fill, but higher than in surrounding mud-dominated sediments). The entire channel sequence (channel fill and levees) has been subsequently covered and back-filled with a more mud-prone sediment sequence. Where the levees intersect the base of the GHSZ, their reflection strengths are significantly increased to 5- to 6-times the surrounding reflection amplitudes. Using the 3D seismic data these high-amplitude reflection edges where linked to the gas hydrate-bearing layer at Site NGHP-01-15. Further south along the channel the same reflection elements representing the levees do not show similarly large reflection amplitudes. However, the channel system is still characterized by several high-amplitude reflection events (a few hundred meters wide and up to ~ 1 km in extent) interpreted as gas hydrate-bearing sand intervals along the length of the channel.     

Damping of gravity–capillary waves on water surface covered with a visco-elastic film of finite thickness

Results of laboratory studies of the damping of gravity–capillary waves on a water surface covered with a film of petroleum product (diesel fuel) in a wide range of change in a film thickness are presented. A nonmonotonic dependence (with a local maximum) of a damping coefficient on film thickness is discovered. Numerical calculations of the dispersion equation for gravity–capillary waves in the presence of a viscoelastic film of arbitrary thickness, which confirmed the existence of the maximum of the damping coefficient as a function of film thickness, are performed. Based on a comparison of the calculation results and the data of laboratory measurements of wave characteristics, the values of parameters in the diesel fuel films are estimated in a wide range of a change in their thickness.     

Synchronization of Activity–Rest Cycle Indicators in Mice with Geomagnetic Field Variations in the Millihertz Frequency Range

Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - The synchronization of mice motor activity, which reflects the activity–rest cycle, with variations in the X component of the geomagnetic field...     

Hydrometeorological characteristics of the Black-Sea region in the years with extreme values of the Sargasso–Black-Sea index

We analyze the annual average values and the anomalies of some hydrometeorological characteristics averaged over the period since January till March near the South Coast of Crimea and in the open part of the Black Sea. It is shown that the sea-surface temperature, the surface temperature of air, and the atmospheric precipitation in the Black-Sea region are lower than the climatic mean values for the extremely high values of the index of North-Atlantic Oscillation (NAO index) (NAO ≥ 1) and the surface temperature gradient between the Sargasso and Black Seas (SBS index) (SBS ≥ 1). In the years with NAO ≤ − 1 and SBS ≤ − 1, the indicated characteristics exceed the climatic mean values. The entire process of changes in the sign of anomalies of the hydrometeorological characteristics runs with a period close to 20 yr.     

Delivery of chemical elements with atmospheric precipitations to the coastal regions of the Crimea in 2004–2008

We study the space-and-time variations of the delivery of fluxes of 26 elements (Na, K, Rb, Cs, Cu, Ag, Au, Ca, Sr, Ba, Zn, Cd, Hg, Hf, Ta, As, Sb, Cr, Se, Mo, W, Mn, Br, Fe, Co and Ni) with atmospheric precipitations to the sea surface in the regions of Sevastopol and the South Coast of Crimea. It is established A series of general regularities of the delivery of the sum of these elements and their soluble and insoluble forms. We also give the characteristics of their space-time variability.     

Hydrodynamic and water column properties at six stations associated with mussel farming in Pelorus sound, 1984–85

Mussel farming places a benthic organism in a pelagic environment; it is therefore important to understand the driving force that transports the food to the mussels. The hydrodynamic regimes in the sidearms and embayments in Pelorus Sound are dominated by the lunar tide, and a net estuarine circulation in the main channel flowing inwards along the bottom and outwards along the top. Salinity gradients extend throughout the sound from the river inflows, with strongest density stratification in the sidearms and embayments: nearest the head of the sound. There, the water column is separated at the pycnocline into upper and lower layers which tend to move in different directions or at different velocities. Local circulation patterns modify tidal flushing patterns, producing extended residence times in some embayments, whereas other embayments off the side of the main channel tend to be flushed more rapidly by through‐flow water and have shorter residence times than would otherwise be expected. The changing inflow of fresh water modifies the local hydraulic regimes in the inner sounds, especially during flood conditions.     

Transfer of the Substance of a Colored Drop in a Liquid Layer with Travelling Plane Gravity–Capillary Waves

Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - The evolution of the distribution pattern of an ink droplet freely falling on the wavy surface of a liquid is traced by video-recording methods. A...