RANS Modeling of Solitary Wave Propagation over A Submerged Rectangular Breakwater

In this paper a series of numerical simulations are performed to investigate the vortex shedding mechanism for a solitary wave propagating over a submerged breakwater by use of Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model combined with a k-ε model. Flows of different Reynolds numbers up to Re=1.4×105 corresponding to varying incident wave heights are considered in which the characteristic fluid velocity is represented by the maximum horizontal velocity above the submerged breakwater. For the verification of the accuracy of the numerical model, the incident waves and the velocity field in the vicinity of the breakwater are compared with experimental data. The result shows that the model is capable of describing vortex shedding for a solitary wave propagating over a rectangular submerged breakwater. Key features of vortex generation, evolution and dissipation are investigated. It is found that the vortex shedding and their evolution due to separated boundary layer over the breakwater are strongly related to the Reynolds number. A considerable number of vortices and complicated vortex pattern are observed as the Reynolds number increases.     

潜堤对波浪传播变形的物理模型试验研究

以不可渗透光滑潜堤为研究对象,基于波浪水槽试验,分析了规则波和不规则波通过淹没梯形潜堤时的波浪外部形态变化以及内部能量变化规律。探讨了不同波浪要素(周期、波高、淹没水深)对潜堤附近波高影响的变化规律。同时,探究了潜堤斜坡坡度、堤顶淹没水深对波浪频谱在频域分布的影响。研究结果表明:当波浪通过潜堤时,波浪主频能量衰减,波浪能量由低频向高频移动;潜堤斜坡坡度越大、堤顶水深越小,波浪主频能量衰减越剧烈;波浪通过潜堤后高频波能量占潜堤次生波能量的1%~30%。     

Experimental and Numerical Study on the Hydrodynamic Characteristics of Solitary Waves Passing Over A Submerged Breakwater

In this study, solitary waves passing over a submerged breakwater are investigated both experimentally and numerically. A total of 9 experimental conditions are carried out, including different incident wave heights and water depths. Numerical simulations are performed using a high-order finite-difference model solving Navier–Stokes (N–S) equations. The predicted water wave elevation, velocity and pressure show good agreement with experimental data, verifying the accuracy and capacity of the numerical model. Furthermore, parametric studies are conducted by numerical modelling to examine the effects of the geometrical features of submerged dike on hydrodynamic characteristics around the breakwater.     

Wave Forces on Submerged Semi-Circular Breakwater and Similar Structures

—The results of design and experiment of a submerged semi-circular breakwater at the Yangtzeestuary show that the submerged structure will be unsafe when the general empirical wave force formulafor semi-circular breakwater is used in design.Therefore,a new calculation method for the wave forces act-ing on a submerged semi-circular structure is given in this paper,in which the wave force acting on the in-side circumference of semi-circular arch is included,and the phase modification coefficient in the generalempirical formula is adjusted as well.The new wave force calculation method has been verified by the re-sults of seven related physical model tests and adopted in the design of the south esturary jetty of the firststage project of Deep Channel Improvement Project of the Yangtze River Estuary,the total jetty length be-ing 17.5km.     

Scaled Boundary Finite Element Analysis of Wave Passing A Submerged Breakwater

The scaled boundary finite element method （SBFEM） is a novel semi-analytical technique combining the advantage of the finite element method （FEM） and the boundary element method （BEM） with its unique properties. In this paper, the SBFEM is used for computing wave passing submerged breakwaters, and the reflection coeffcient and transmission coefficient are given for the case of wave passing by a rectangular submerged breakwater, a rigid submerged barrier breakwater and a trapezium submerged breakwater in a constant water depth. The results are compared with the analytical solution and experimental results. Good agreement is obtained. Through comparison with the results using the dual boundary element method （DBEM）, it is found that the SBFEM can obtain higher accuracy with fewer elements. Many submerged breakwaters with different dimensions are computed by the SBFEM, and the changing character of the reflection coeffcient and the transmission coefficient are given in the current study.     

Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between a A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

Experimental Research on Wave Transmission over Submerged Rubble-Mound Breakwaters

This paper discusses some previous, and presents some new experimental results on wave transmission oversubmerged breakwaters. The objective of this study is to evaluate wave transmission coefficient and develop two-dimensional (2D) model as an improvement to the existing wave transmission coefficient models. Factors which affect wave transmission over submerged breakwaters are discussed through series of laboratory experiments. Basic recommendations for evaluation and design of submerged rubble-monud breakwaters are presented.From the test results, calculation formula of wave transmission coefficient is proposed.     

Experimental Research on Wave Transmission over Submerged Rubble Mound Breakwaters

This paper discusses some previous, and presents some new experimental results on wave transmission over submerged breakwaters. The objective of this study is to evaluate wave transmission coefficient and develop a two-dimensional （2D） model as an improvement to the existing wave transmission coefficient models. Factors which affect wave transmission over stbmerged breakwaters are discussed through a series of laboratory experiments. Basic recommendations for evaluation and design of submerged rubble-monud breakwaters are presented. From the test results, a calculation formula of wave transmission coefficient is proposed.     

Bubble Size Distribution for Waves Propagating over A Submerged Breakwater

Experiments are carried out to study the characteristics of active bubbles entrained by breaking waves as these propagate over an abruptly topographical change or a submerged breakwater. Underwater sounds generated by the entrained air bubbles are detected by a hydrophone connected to a charge amplifier and a data acquisition system. The size distribution of the bubbles is then determined inversely from the received sound frequencies. The sound signals are converted from time domain to time-frequency domain by applying Gabor transform. The number of bubbles with different sizes are counted from the signal peaks in the time-frequency domain. The characteristics of the bubbles are in terms of bubble size spectra, which account for the variation in bubble probability density related to the bubble radius r. The experimental data demonstrate that the bubble probability density function shows a - 2.39 power-law sealing with radius for r 〉 0. 8 mm, and a- 1.11 power law for r 〈0.8 mm.     

Bble Size Distribution for Waves Propagating over A Submerged Breakwater

Experiments are carried out to study the characteristics of active bubbles entrained by breaking waves as these propagate over an abruptly topographical change or a submerged breakwater. Underwater sounds generated by the entrained air bubbles are detected by a hydrophone connected to a charge amplifier and a data acquisition system. The size distribution of the bubbles is then determined inversely from the received sound frequencies. The sound signals are converted from time domain to time-frequency domain by applying Gabor transform. The number of bubbles with different sizes are counted from the signal peaks in the time-frequency domain. The characteristics of the bubbles are in terms of bubble size spectra, which account for the variation in bubble probability density related to the bubble radius r. The experimental data demonstrate that the bubble probability density function shows a-2.39 power-law scaling with radius for r＞0.8 mm, and a-1.11 power law for r＜0.8 mm.     

Solitary wave propagation influenced by submerged breakwater

The form of Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu （1993） using velocity at an arbitrary distance and surface elevation as variables is used to simulate wave surface elevation changes. In the numerical experiment, water depth was divided into five layers with six layer interfaces to simulate velocity at each layer interface. Besides, a physical experiment was carried out to validate numerical model and study solitary wave propagation.“Water column collapsing”method （WCCM） was used to generate solitary wave. A series of wave gauges around an impervious breakwater were set-up in the flume to measure the solitary wave shoaling, run-up, and breaking processes. The results show that the measured data and simulated data are in good agreement. Moreover, simulated and measured surface elevations were analyzed by the wavelet transform method. It shows that different wave frequencies stratified in the wavelet amplitude spectrum. Finally, horizontal and vertical velocities of each layer interface were analyzed in the process of solitary wave propagation through submerged breakwater.     

Calculation of Wave Pressure and Pressure Spectrum for Perforate-Pipe Breakwater

Standing waves are formed due to the reflection when waves meet vertical wall,thereforestrong structures are needed to keep the wall stability under the serious wave attack.For the improvementof the working condition and increase of the stability of the wall,the lower reflecting breakwaters have at-tracted close attention Reports mostly from Japanese researchers are often concerned with the wall ofcaisson equipped with open windows.In this paper a kind of hollow-pipe perforated breakwater is exam-ined which waves may partially perforate into the harbour basin.The wave in front of the wall can onlyform partial standing wave and wave force is reduced obviously.And the theoretical calculation of waveforce and analysis of wave force spectrum are all derived.Comparison between the results from theoreticalcalculation and hydraulic modeling shows reasonable agreement.     

Experimental Study of Wave Pressure on a Breakwater Pier

Test studies on the wave pressure on a breakwater pier show that the influence of transmissivewave pressure on the outside wall of the breakwater pier is considerable,when the width of the pier is notvery large.The variations of transmissive wave pressure on the breakwater pier with different widths arecompared and the relationship is obtained between relative transmitting distance b/L and wave pressurereduction factor K,which may be used in the design of similar breakwater piers.     

Laboratory Observations on Internal Solitary Wave Evolution over A Submarine Ridge

Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume on internal solitary wave （ISW） of depression and elevation types propagating over a submarine ridge in semicircular/triangular shape. Tests were arranged in series for combinations of submarine ridges of different heights and ISW of different amplitudes. The resuhant wave motions were found differing from thee of surface gravity waves. In deeper water, where an ISW of depression-type prevailed, the process of wave breaking displayed downward motion with continuous eddy on the front face of the ridge followed by upward motion towards the apex of the obstacle. Experimental results also suggested that blockage parameter ξ could be applied to classify various degrees of ISW-ridge interaction, i.e., ξ 〈 0.5 for weak interaction, 0.5 〈 ξ 〈 0.7 for moderate interaction, and 0.7 〈 ξ for wave breaking.     

斜向波对直立式防波堤堤头作用的试验研究

直立式防波堤堤头在斜向波浪作用下波浪力的计算在现行的技术规范中尚属空白。通过物理模型试验给出了堤头结构设计所需的波压分布图，指出了波浪入射方向和地形对堤头所受波浪力的贡献有时可以超过波高和波周期，根据现行规范按波浪正向入射计算堤头所受的波浪力偏于安全。     

Calculation of Wave Reflection Coefficient for Perforated-Pipe Breakwater

The hollow-pipe perforated breakwater is of low reflection. In this paper the functions of reflection coefficients of both regular and random waves are theoretically derived, based on the concept of linear superimposition of reflected and incident waves and with the total flow rate continuity of integral form instead of the non-continuity of the boundary condition, and based on the concept of linear wave spectrum theory. Comparisons between theoretical results presented here and measurements of model tests show reasonable agreement.     

Wave Pressure Distribution over the Breast Wall of Mound Breakwater of Small Ports

In this paper, the mechanism of the interaction between the breast wall of mound breakwater and waves is expounded, then some new views and the law of variation of horizontal and vertical wave pressure over the breast wall are put forward. The results of this study have been adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbour Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.     

斜坡堤胸墙波压力的试验与分析

通过断面物理模型试验,获得了斜坡堤堤顶胸墙在肩宽B不同工况组合下,承受水平波浪力、底部浮托力的大量数据。对这些数据进行了分析,得出了斜坡堤堤顶胸墙波压力随肩宽B的变化规律。     

Wave Run-up on A Vertical Seawall Protected by An Offshore Submerged Barrier

Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave run-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall.     

Wave Attenuation Performance and the Influencing Factors of A Lower Arc-Plate Breakwater

Comprehensive experimental and numerical studies have been undertaken to investigate wave energy dissipation performance and main influencing factors of a lower arc-plate breakwater. The numerical model, which considers nonlinear interactions between waves and the arc-plate breakwater, has been constructed by using the velocity wave- generating method, the volume of fluid (VOF) method and the finite volume method. The results show that the relative width, relative height and relative submergence of the breakwater are three main influencing factors and have significant influence on wave energy dissipation of the lower arc-plate open breakwater. The transmission coefficient is found to decrease with the increasing relative width, and the minimum transmission coefficient is 0.15 when the relative width is 0.45. The reflection coefficient is found to vary slightly with the relative width, and the maximum reflection coefficient is 0.53 when the relative width is 0.45. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to increase with the relative wave height for approximately 85% of the experimental tests when the relative width is 0.19 0.45. The transmission coefficients at relative submergences of 0.04, 0.02 and 0 are clearly shown to be greater than those at relative submergences of 0.02 and 0.04, while the reflection coefficient exhibits the opposite relationship. After the wave interacts with the lower arc-plate breakwater, the wave energy is mainly converted into transmission, reflection and dissipation energies. The wave attenuation performance is clearly weakened for waves with greater heights and longer periods.