Distribution of vertical turbulent mixing parameter caused by internal tidal waves and solitary waves in the South Yellow Sea

Many observations show that in the Yellow Sea internal tidal waves (ITWs) possess the remarkable characteristics of internal Kelvin wave, and in the South Yellow Sea (SYS) the nonlinear evolution of internal tidal waves is one of the mechanisms producing internal solitary waves (ISWs), which is different from the generation mechanism in the case where the semidiurnal tidal current flows over topographic drops. In this paper, the model of internal Kelvin wave with continuous stratification is given, and an elementary numerical study of nonlinear evolution of ITWs is made for the SYS, using the generalized KdV model (GKdV model for short) for a continuous stratified ocean, in which the different effects of background barotropic ebb and flood currents are considered. Moreover, the parameterization of vertical turbulent mixing caused by ITWs and ISWs in the SYS is studied, using a parameterization scheme which was applied to numerical experiments on the breaking of ISWs by Vlasenko and Hutter in 2002. It is found that the vertical turbulent mixing caused by internal waves is very strong within the upper layer with depth less than about 30m, and the vertical turbulent mixing caused by ISWs is stronger than that by ITWs.     

NUMERICAL STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF WAVES AND TIDE-SURGE INTERACTION ON TIDE-SURGES IN THE BOHAI SEA

Abstract The author‘s combined numerical model consisting of a third generation shallow water wave model and a 3-D tide-surge model with wave-dependent surface wind stress were used to study the influence of waves on fide-surge motion. For the typical weather case, in this study, the magnitude and mechanism of the influence of waves on tide-surges in the Bohai Sea were revealed for the first time. The results showed that although consideration of the wave-dependent surface wind stresses raise slightly the traditional surface wind stress, due to the accumulated effects, the computed results are improved on the whole. Storm level maximum modulation can reach 0.4 m. The results computed by the combined model agreed well with the measured data.     

A THIRD GENERATION SHALLOW WATER WAVE NUMERICAL MODEL-YE-WAM

This paper pnesents a third gneration shallow Whter disode spedtal wave nbotal medeIYE-WAM based on the spedtal action balance equation. The mode accounts for all edevan effectsof currents on waves, incuding tmpotally and spatialy varying depth and current inded refraction,sttalning and fequency shift and also explidtly takeS into aanunt all source terms, speclally adePth-limited breaking dheipation. In addition, an energy forcing scheme is propond and applied to themode's open boundaries to areUn for the propagution of sedIs into the study spstem The upwinddiffeIenng scheme and a standard hybrid diffdrencing scheme for the propagaion terrn and a simpleEuler method for the source teme are employed.     

Numerical investigation of wake-collapse internal waves generated by a submerged moving body

The state-of-the-art OpenFOAM technology is used to develop a numerical model that can be devoted to numerically investigating wake-collapse internal waves generated by a submerged moving body.The model incorporates body geometry,propeller forcing,and stratification magnitude of seawater.The generation mechanism and wave properties are discussed based on model results.It was found that the generation of the wave and its properties depend greatly on the body speed.Only when that speed exceeds some critical value,between 1.5 and 4.5 m/s,can the moving body generate wake-collapse internal waves,and with increases of this speed,the time of generation advances and wave amplitude increases.The generated wake-collapse internal waves are confirmed to have characteristics of the second baroclinic mode.As the body speed increases,wave amplitude and length increase and its waveform tends to take on a regular sinusoidal shape.For three linearly temperature-stratified profiles examined,the weaker the stratification,the stronger the wake-collapse internal wave.     

Operational wave now- and forecast in the German Bight as a basis for the assessment of wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes

The knowledge of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes including their temporal and spatial resolution on the dike in combination with actual water levels is of crucial importance of any risk-based early warning system. As a basis for the assessment of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads, an operational wave now-and forecast system is set up that consists of i) available field measurements from the federal and local authorities and ii) data from numerical simulation of waves in the German Bight using the SWAN wave model. In this study, results of the hindcast of deep water wave conditions during the winter storm on 5–6 December, 2013(German name ‘Xaver') are shown and compared with available measurements. Moreover field measurements of wave run-up from the local authorities at a sea dike on the German North Sea Island of Pellworm are presented and compared against calculated wave run-up using the Eur Otop(2016) approach.     

一种近岸波浪动能发电装置

设计了一种近岸波浪动能发电设备,其特有的双通道结构可将海水的双向流动转化为叶轮的单向旋转。同时,根据近岸波浪能的特点,分析了近岸海水动能和远离海岸波浪波高的关系,研究了通过发电设备的水流速度和设备的流通面积。     

Swells of the East China Sea

Over the past few decades, an increasing number of marine activities have been conducted in the East China Sea, including the construction of various marine structures and the passage of large ships. Marine safety issues are paramount and are becoming more important with respect to the likely increase in size of ocean waves in relation to global climate change and associated typhoons. In addition, swells also can be very dangerous because they induce the resonance of floating structures, including ships. This study focuses on an investigation of swells in the East China Sea and uses hindcast data for waves over the past 5 years in a numerical model, WAVEWATCH III (WW3), together with historical climate data. The numerical calculation domain covers the entire North West Pacific. Next, swells are separated and analyzed using simulated wave fields, and both the characteristics and generation mechanisms of swells are investigated.     

反射波和折射波VSPCDP同时成像

介绍了反射波和折射波的 Ｖ Ｓ Ｐ Ｃ Ｄ Ｐ 同时成象方法,通过模型资料试算证实,对于大偏移距与深度比 Ｖ Ｓ Ｐ 资料或速度梯度大的 Ｖ Ｓ Ｐ 资料,反射波和折射波 Ｖ Ｓ Ｐ Ｃ Ｄ Ｐ 同时成像方法行之有效,而反射波 Ｖ Ｓ Ｐ Ｃ Ｄ Ｐ 迭加方法会得到错误的成像结果。     

Modification on Lynett and Liu’s model for internal solitary wave propagation over variable bathymetry

1 INTRODUCTION As an important wave phenomenon, taking place inside the ocean, the internal wave has drawn attentions of many scientists. More and more in- formation about it have been provided by both CTD and ADCP data and the images captured by the synt…     

GENERALIZED WAVE EQUATION FINITE ELEMENT METHOD FOR SOLVING TWO-DIMENSIONAL TIDAL WAVES

The study of tidal circulation has a long history . The numerical simulation of tidal flow has been developed greatly with the development of computer techniques in the past two decades. The generalized wave equation finite-element method is a relatively new numerical model for studying shallow water flow . This method was used to simulate tidal waves of the Gulf of St. Lawrence in Canada . The very good agreement of the numerical results with the field data indicated that the model is an effective and promising numerical method for solving two-dimensional tidal wave problems .     

Modification on Lynett and Liu＇s model for internal solitary wave propagation over variable bathymetry

A two-dimensional, depth-integrated model proposed by Lynett and Liu （2002） was checked carefully, and several misprints in the model were corrected after detailed examination on both the theory and the numerical program. Several comparisons were made on wave profile, system energy and maximum wave amplitude. It is noted that the modified model can simulate the propagation of the internal solitary waves over variable bathymetry more reasonably to a certain degree, and the wave profiles obtained based on the modified model can better fit the experiment data reported by Helfrich （1992） than those from original model.     

PROGRESS OF STUDIES ON THE INTERNAL TIDE GENERATED BY THE PASSAGE OF BAROTROPIC TIDE OVER CONTINENTAL SHELF/SLOPE

Various aspects of studies on internal tides are reviewed .Both beam-like structure and modal structure of internal tides may exist in the ocean . Bottom intensifications are caused by many factors .e.g. upstream blocking , which is the result of nonlinear interaction among waves . The energy may decay very fast so that internal tides are mostly locally generated .Internal tides may have considerable residual currents.In a 3-D frame, numerical study revealed that internal waves may interfere with each other to cause strong motions fer from the generation sources.The mechanism that determines how the lee waves break to form various nonlinear waves such as solitary waves, hydraulic jumps and internal surges or bores remains unclear. Analytic study is difficult , so numerical method may be effective . A radiation condition on the open boundary must be employed. A complete 3-D model may gain interesting result.Study on internal tides in China is limited to field observations and data analysis .     

A background error covariance model of significant wave height employing Monte Carlo simulation

The quality of background error statistics is one of the key components for successful assimilation of observations in a numerical model.The background error covariance(BEC) of ocean waves is generally estimated under an assumption that it is stationary over a period of time and uniform over a domain.However,error statistics are in fact functions of the physical processes governing the meteorological situation and vary with the wave condition.In this paper,we simulated the BEC of the significant wave height(SWH) employing Monte Carlo methods.An interesting result is that the BEC varies consistently with the mean wave direction(MWD).In the model domain,the BEC of the SWH decreases significantly when the MWD changes abruptly.A new BEC model of the SWH based on the correlation between the BEC and MWD was then developed.A case study of regional data assimilation was performed,where the SWH observations of buoy 22001 were used to assess the SWH hindcast.The results show that the new BEC model benefits wave prediction and allows reasonable approximations of anisotropy and inhomogeneous errors.     

A wave modulation model of ripples over long surface waves

A study is presented on the modulation of ripples induced by a long surface wave (LW) and a new theoretical modulation model is proposed. In this model, the wind surface stress modulation is related to the modulation of ripple spectrum. The model results show that in the case of LW propagating in the wind direction with the wave age parameter of LW increasing, the area with enhanced shear stress shifts from the region near the LW crest on the upwind slope to the LW trough. With a smaller wave age parameter of LW, the ripple modulation has the maximum on the upwind slope in the vicinity of LW crest, while with a larger parameter the enhancement of ripple spectrum does not occur in that region. At low winds the amplitude of ripple modulation transfer function (MTF) is larger in the gravity wave range, while at moderate or high winds it changes little in the range from short gravity waves to capillary waves.     

Impacts of tropical cyclone inflow angle on ocean surface waves

The inflow angle of tropical cyclones(TC) is generally neglected in numerical studies of ocean surface waves induced by TC.In this study,the impacts of TC inflow angle on ocean surface waves were investigated using a high-resolution wave model.Six numerical experiments were conducted to examine,in detail,the effects of inflow angle on mean wave parameters and the spectrum of wave directions.A comparison of the waves simulated in these experiments shows that inflow angle significantly modifies TC-induced ocean surface waves.As the inflow angle increases,the asymmetric axis of the significant wave height(SWH) field shifts 30u clockwise,and the maximum SWH moves from the front-right to the rear-right quadrant.Inflow angle also affects other mean wave parameters,especially in the rear-left quadrant,such as the mean wave direction,the mean wavelength,and the peak direction.Inflow angle is a key factor in wave models for the reproduction of double-peak or multi-peak patterns in the spectrum of wave directions.Sensitivity experiments also show that the simulation with a 40u inflow angle is the closest to that of the NOAA statistical SLOSH inflow angle.This suggests that 40u can be used as the inflow angle in future TC-induced ocean surface wave simulations when SLOSH or observed inflow angles are not available.     

Wave uplift force on horizontal panels: a laboratory study

Accurate estimation of wave uplift force is essential to the designs of reliable coastal and marine structures. We presents a series of laboratory work here on the impact of regular waves on horizontal panels, from which an empirical formula to estimate accurately the wave uplift force on panels is established. The laboratory measurements show that the wave uplift force depends mainly on the incident wave height, the wave period, the wave length, the panel width, and the clearance between the subsurface of the panel and the still water level. Among these factors, the impact of the panel width on uplift forces is relatively complicated. Result shows that the relative panel width(i.e., the ratio of panel width to wave length) plays a more important role in estimating the wave uplift force. Based on our comprehensive laboratory measurements, we further developed an empirical formula to compute wave uplift force on horizontal panels through dimensionless analysis. Compared with other empirical formulas, this formula uses dimensionless variables of clear physical meanings, thus can describe the interaction between waves and the panels in a better way. In addition, the efficiency of the formula to estimate wave uplift force on horizontal panels is verified against existing works. Therefore, the findings in this study shall be useful for understanding the mechanism of wave uplift force on horizontal panels and numerical model validation.     

Determination of fractional energy loss of waves in nearshore waters using an improved high-order Boussinesq-type model

Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking i...     

Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.     

Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves

Wave-number spectrum technique is proposed to retrieve coastal water depths by means of Synthetic Aperture Radar （SAR） image of waves. Based on the general dispersion relation of ocean waves the wavelength changes of a surface wave over varying water depths can be derived from SAR. Approaching the analysis of SAR images of waves and using the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, this indirect technique of remote sensing bathymetry has been applied to a coastal region of Xiapu in Fujian Province, China. Results show that this technique is suitable for the coastal waters especially for the near-shore regions with variable water depths.     

两种海浪模式对一次台风浪过程的模拟分析

以CCMP（Cross—Calibrated,Multi—Platfoml）风场为驱动场,分别驱动目前国际先进的第3代海浪模式ww3（WAVEWATCH—III）、SWAN（Simulating WAves Nearshore）,对2010年9月发生在东中国海的台风“圆规”所致的台风浪进行数值模拟,就台风浪的特征进行分析,并对比分析两个海浪模式的模拟效果。结果表明：1）以CCMP风场分别驱动WW3、SWAN海浪模式,可以较好地模拟发生在东中国海的台风浪,风向与波向保持了大体一致,波高与风速的分布特征保持了很好的一致性;2）综合相关系数、偏差、均方根误差、平均绝对误差来看,两个模式模拟的有效波高（SWH—Significant Wdve Height）都具有较高精度,SWAN模拟的SWH略低于观测值,WW3模拟的SWH与观测值更为接近;3）台风浪可给琉球群岛海域带来5m左右的大浪,台风浪进入东海后,波高、风速都有一定程度的增加,当台风沿西北路径穿越朝鲜半岛时,受到半岛地形的巨大影响,风速和波高都明显降低。