Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between a A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

聚焦波作用下透水潜堤消波特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压数值计算模型,本文系统研究了聚焦波作用下透水潜堤的消波特性,通过设置合理的计算工况,详细分析了波高、堤顶水深、谱峰周期、孔隙率以及堤顶宽度5种因素对透水潜堤消波特性的影响。与此同时,本文将透水潜堤的计算结果同不透水潜堤的计算结果进行了对比分析。计算结果表明:透水潜堤对聚焦波的消减作用要强于不透水潜堤,从而说明,透水潜堤能更有效地降低畸形波对海岸基础设施的影响;波高和堤顶水深是影响潜堤消波特性的重要因素,随入射波高增加、堤顶水深减小,透水潜堤对波浪的消减作用逐渐增强。透水潜堤对长周期波浪的消波效果较差。在本文考虑的孔隙率范围内,孔隙率越大,透水潜堤消波效果越好;当孔隙率为0.4,堤顶宽度为0.612 5 m时,透水潜堤可消减54%的入射波能,比不透水潜堤对入射波能的消减增加36.1%。本文研究结果可为进一步认识透水潜堤的消波特性和海岸防护工程设计提供相应的参考。     

Scattering of water wave by a submerged horizontal plate and a submerged permeable breakwater

Based on a two-dimensional linear water wave theory, this study develops the boundary element method (BEM) to examine normally incident wave scattering by a fixed, submerged, horizontal, impermeable plate and a submerged permeable breakwater in water of finite depth. Numerical results for the transmission coefficients are also presented. In addition, the numerical technique's accuracy is demonstrated by comparing the numerical results with previously published numerical and experimental ones. According to that comparison, the transmission coefficient relies not only on the submergence of the horizontal impermeable plate and the height of the permeable breakwater, but also on the distance between horizontal plate and permeable breakwater. Results presented herein confirm that the transmission coefficient is minimum for the distance approximately equal to four times the water depth.     

Scattering of water wave by a submerged horizontal plate and a submerged permeable breakwater

Based on a two-dimensional linear water wave theory, this study develops the boundary element method (BEM) to examine normally incident wave scattering by a fixed, submerged, horizontal, impermeable plate and a submerged permeable breakwater in water of finite depth. Numerical results for the transmission coefficients are also presented. In addition, the numerical technique's accuracy is demonstrated by comparing the numerical results with previously published numerical and experimental ones. According to that comparison, the transmission coefficient relies not only on the submergence of the horizontal impermeable plate and the height of the permeable breakwater, but also on the distance between horizontal plate and permeable breakwater. Results presented herein confirm that the transmission coefficient is minimum for the distance approximately equal to four times the water depth.     

柔性水囊潜堤消波特性的溃坝水槽试验研究

柔性水囊潜堤由橡胶制成,内部充水,具有结构简单、造价低廉等优点,能较好满足人工岛、跨海桥梁、海洋平台等基础设施建设工程对简单便携、拆装方便的临时防波堤的需求。为了探究柔性水囊潜堤的消波特性,在溃坝水槽内开展溃坝波与半圆柱形柔性水囊潜堤相互作用的试验研究,重点探究柔性水囊潜堤与溃坝波相互作用过程中水位变化特性,并与半圆柱刚性潜堤的性能进行比较;同时分析柔性水囊潜堤内部初始水压和浸没深度等参数对其消波性能的影响。结果表明：柔性水囊潜堤能够用作临时防波堤来衰减波浪;与半圆柱刚性潜堤相比,柔性水囊潜堤在降低溃坝波无量纲最大水位、提高消波性能方面更具优势;内部初始水压是影响柔性水囊潜堤消波性能的重要因素,适当降低内部初始水压,有利于增强柔性潜堤的变形程度,进而增加波能耗散,可获得更好的消波效果;而增加浸没深度即潜深,会使得柔性水囊潜堤对溃坝波的影响程度降低,消波效果减弱。     

Wave transformation over submerged permeable breakwater on porous bottom

A numerical model is presented in this study to investigate the wave transformation over a submerged permeable breakwater on a porous slope seabed. For this purpose, the time-dependent mild-slope equation is newly derived for waves propagating over two layers of porous medium. This new mild-slope equation involves the parameters of the porous medium, and it is a type of hyperbolic differential equation, therefore numerically efficient. The validity of the present model is verified based on the comparisons with the previous experiments. The effects of the permeable properties of both the porous seabed and the submerged permeable breakwater are discussed in detail. The geometry of the submerged permeable breakwater to the wave transformation is also investigated based on the numerical solutions.     

Wave Run-up on A Vertical Seawall Protected by An Offshore Submerged Barrier

Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave run-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall.     

聚焦波浪在浅堤上传播变形高精度数值模拟研究

基于开源程序REEF3D,通过建立高精度二维数值波浪水槽,系统研究了聚焦波浪在浅堤上传播变形的规律,着重分析了聚焦波浪通过浅堤的水动力过程及能量变化规律,讨论了不同波浪要素对聚焦波浪传播特性的影响。除此之外,还考虑了双浅堤布置对聚焦波浪传播变形的影响。研究结果表明:极端波浪通过浅堤时,堤顶水深越小,波浪主频能量衰减越显著。在给定堤顶水深条件下,聚焦点与浅堤的相对位置对聚焦波浪能量的衰减影响较小。在双浅堤布置条件下,随着浅堤间距的增加,上下游浅堤的相互影响逐渐减弱,高频段的波浪能量也随之减小。     

Curved and Stepped Breakwater Wall

This paper introduces the main points of design and operation features of a curved combinative breakwater wall which can not only resist storm surge but also roll wave back and which has the functions of seawall, tide protection, anti-wave, land development, traffic and tourism. The new kind of breakwater optimized by wave model test has been utilized in the seawall in the coast regulation project in Zhanjiang City, and good results have been achieved.     

A parabolic equation for wave propagation over porous structures

A parabolic wave model was developed to simulate wave transformation over porous structures in the surf zone including wave-breaking and energy dissipation. This model is verified through experimental data for waves passing over a submerged permeable structure with porosities. The numerical results have shown good agreement with the results of laboratory experiments. The model is also applied to the real case of waves propagating over a porous submerged breakwater on a complicated bathymetry.     

3-D non-breaking regular wave interaction with submerged breakwaters

Modelling of the transformation and interaction of regular wave trains with submerged permeable structures is carried out. The existing literature, is summarized relevant theories presented, and theoretical results are compared with existing laboratory data. Special attention is paid to wave reflection. The influence of wave characteristics including oblique incidence, structure geometry and porous material properties on the kinematics and dynamics over and inside the breakwater is considered. Two different models are presented: an eigenfunction expansion 3-D model and a 2-D model based on a mild-slope equation for porous media to account for breakwater slope.     

双平板式透空堤消能效果评价方法

双平板式透空堤具有较为优越的消浪性能备受专家学者关注。目前关于其消浪性能的评价多采用透射波高法开展,仅考虑波高一个参数。本文采用透射波高法、波浪能量法和波能流法分别对平板式透空堤的消能效果进行评价,结果表明,综合考虑波高、水深和周期三个参数的波能流法更加全面与深入。探讨了双平板式透空堤迎浪向与背浪向处波能流的主要影响因素,结果表明,相对板宽、位置参数和波高大小对波能流的影响较板间距和潜深更加显著。     

新型开孔工字板组合式防波堤波浪力特性试验研究

开孔工字板组合式防波堤是基于透空板式防波堤的一种新型结构形式,具有自重轻、材料省的特点。为充分了解新型开孔组合式防波堤的受力特性,基于室内水槽物理模型试验,测量新型开孔工字板组合式防波堤上的波压力与结构总力,研究相对波高H/d、相对波长L/B对该新型防波堤结构表面压力的影响,讨论了该新型防波堤所受波浪力荷载与相对波高H/d、相对波长L/B的关系。结果表明,相对波高H/d是决定新型防波堤结构表面波压力和结构总力的主要影响因素。该新型防波堤结构波浪力荷载以垂直方向受力为主,新型防波堤结构所受竖向总力远大于水平总力,最大可达到15倍。新型防波堤水平总力随相对波长L/B先增大后趋于稳定。相对波长L/B=3.617是防波堤结构水平总力变化幅度的分界点。     

Hydrodynamic studies on vertical seawall defenced by low-crested breakwater

This paper presents results obtained from a series of experiments conducted in wave flume to assess the influence of the offshore low-crested breakwater as a defence structure in reducing the wave forces on vertical seawall. The main aim of the tests was to know the effect of crest elevation of the offshore low-crested breakwater as a rehabilitation structure for the existing damaged shore protection structures. In this study five relative breakwater heights are used and associated flow evolution was analyzed. With the sections proposed in this study, it is possible to achieve considerable reduction of wave force on the seawall. Modification factor is proposed to estimate the shoreward force on the seawall defenced by low-crested breakwater.     

Solitary wave propagation influenced by submerged breakwater

The form of Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu （1993） using velocity at an arbitrary distance and surface elevation as variables is used to simulate wave surface elevation changes. In the numerical experiment, water depth was divided into five layers with six layer interfaces to simulate velocity at each layer interface. Besides, a physical experiment was carried out to validate numerical model and study solitary wave propagation.“Water column collapsing”method （WCCM） was used to generate solitary wave. A series of wave gauges around an impervious breakwater were set-up in the flume to measure the solitary wave shoaling, run-up, and breaking processes. The results show that the measured data and simulated data are in good agreement. Moreover, simulated and measured surface elevations were analyzed by the wavelet transform method. It shows that different wave frequencies stratified in the wavelet amplitude spectrum. Finally, horizontal and vertical velocities of each layer interface were analyzed in the process of solitary wave propagation through submerged breakwater.     

中咀湾避风港工程波浪分析及其应用

中咀湾是一个天然的避风良港,一般情况下外海波浪影响很小,主要受局部风场产生的局部风浪影响。本文采用曹宏生在Massel的扩展缓坡方程基础上推导出来的考虑陡变地形和能量耗散效应的缓坡方程为控制方程,结合固边界的反射边界条件,构成波浪传播变形的联合折射、绕射和反射的数学模型。文中将此方法运用在中国台州市大陈岛中咀湾避风港中,用波浪数学模型计算极端高水位和设计高水位时3种波况分别在3组重现期时工程海域的波浪要素,提供防波堤的堤前波高,并分析比较此处实心式和透空式防波堤的防浪性能。     

不规则波作用下垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数试验研究

垂直挡板式透空堤作为一种新型的透空式防波堤结构,通过将挡浪板垂直设置于波能最集中的水体表层来消减波浪,透浪系数是其最关键的指标。通过物理模型试验,分析不规则波作用下入射波高、波周期、挡板相对入水深度、相对堤宽、相对挡板超高、相对面板超高等因素对垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数的影响规律,并在Wiegel公式的基础上拟合了垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数的计算公式。可作为今后类似透空式防波堤结构透浪系数的近似估算,具有一定的参考价值。     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

孤立波低顶海堤越浪的数值模拟研究

灾害性波浪是中国沿海地区最具破坏性的自然灾害之一。采用开源程序OpenFOAM中interFoam求解器,对低顶海堤（在风暴潮和海平面上升情况下所面临的不利工况）的孤立波越浪特性开展数值模拟研究。通过孤立波冲击海堤的基准算例,验证模型在模拟波浪爬升和越浪过程中大变形波面以及剧烈波浪力方面的精度。基于验证的数值模型,对孤立波在低顶海堤上的越浪特征以及防浪墙高度对越浪的影响开展参数化研究。结果表明堤顶超高减小导致更为剧烈的越浪。针对尚无低顶海堤孤立波越浪量经验公式的问题,提出新的适用于堤顶超高小或为0的孤立波越浪量经验公式。此外,研究发现增加防浪墙高度可有效减少越浪,但防浪墙所受的波浪力也增大。综合考虑防浪墙减少越浪以及自身所受波浪力,针对文中研究采用的海堤截面和波浪条件,建议无量纲防浪墙高度取为1.00。     

Wave reflection from vertical breakwater with porous structure

This paper presents numerical solutions for the wave reflection from submerged porous structures in front of the impermeable vertical breakwater. A new time-dependent mild-slope equation involves the parameters of the porous medium including the porosity, the friction factor and the inertia coefficient, etc. is derived for solving the boundary value problem. A comprehensive comparison between the present model and the existing analytical solution for the case of simple rectangular geometries of the submerged structure is performed first. Then, more complicated cases such as the inclined and trapezoidal submerged porous structures in front of the vertical breakwater with sloping bottom are considered. This study also examines the effects of the permeable properties and the geometric configurations of the porous structure to the wave reflection. It is found that the submerged porous structure with trapezoidal shape has more efficiency to reduce the wave reflection than that of triangular shape. The numerical results show that the minimum wave reflection is occurred when the breakwater is located at the intermediate water depth.