Response-based estimation of sea state parameters — influence of filtering

Reliable estimation of the on-site sea state parameters is essential to decision support systems for safe navigation of ships. The wave spectrum can be estimated from procedures based on measured ship responses. The paper deals with two procedures—Bayesian Modelling and Parametric Modelling—which both use complex-valued frequency response functions (FRF) to estimate the wave spectrum. It is therefore interesting to investigate how the filtering aspect, introduced by FRF, affects the final outcome of the estimation procedures. In order to do this, extensive numerical simulations—with known wave parameters—are carried out for a large container vessel. The study shows that filtering has an influence on the estimations, since high-frequency components of the wave excitations are not estimated as accurately as lower frequency components.     

冰区四季通用灯浮标的二阶波浪力计算

冰区四季通用灯浮标是一种为满足北方冬季冰冻港口一年四季的助航服务需求研制的新型灯浮标,二阶波浪力对其漂浮姿态和漂移运动有较大影响。文中研究了浮标受到的二阶波浪力的数值计算方法,计算了不同流速下罐形和锥形灯浮标的二阶波浪力。研究结果显示,罐形和锥形灯浮标受到的一阶波浪力相差不大,罐形的二阶波浪力明显小于锥形,具有一定的外形优势。     

Has wind–wave modeling reached its limit?

This article uses a comparison of four different numerical wave prediction models for hindcast wave conditions in Lake Michigan during a 10-day episode in October 1988 to illustrate that typical wave prediction models based on the concept of a wave energy spectrum may have reached a limit in the accuracy with which they can simulate realistic wave generation and growth conditions. In the hindcast study we compared the model results to observed wave height and period measurements from two deep water NOAA/NDBC weather buoys and from a nearshore Waverider buoy. Hourly wind fields interpolated from a large number of coastal and overlake observations were used to drive the models. The same numerical grid was used for all the models. The results show that while the individual model predictions deviate from the measurements by various amounts, they all tend to reflect the general trend and patterns of the wave measurements. The differences between the model results are often similar in magnitude to differences between model results and observations. Although the four models tested represent a wide range of sophistication in their treatment of wave growth dynamics, they are all based on the assumption that the sea state can be represented by a wave energy spectrum. Because there are more similarities among the model results than significant differences, we believe that this assumption may be the limiting factor for substantial improvements in wave modeling.     

The calibration of wind and wave model data in the Mediterranean Sea

Three sources of long-term wind and wave data are available in the Mediterranean Sea: numerical models, satellites and buoys. We make use of the overall information to obtain calibrated decadal time series at a large number of points, distributed at 0.5° intervals. We discuss the accuracy of the three sources and point out the errors that affect the accuracy of the final results.     

Elimination of directional wave spectrum contamination from noise in elevation measurements

The Surface Contour Radar (SCR) is a 36-GHz computer-controlled airborne radar which generates a false-color-coded elevation map of the sea surface below the aircraft in real time, and can routinely produce ocean directional wave spectra with post-flight data processing which have much higher angular resolution than pitch-and-roll buoys. The SCR range measurements are not error-free and the resulting errors in the elevations corrupt the directional wave spectrum. This paper presents a technique for eliminating that contamination.     

Cause and countermeasure of long-period oscillations of moored ships and the quantification of surge and heave amplitudes

Long-period oscillations of moored ships whose periods are about 1 or 2 min cause many troubles in many ports and harbours. It is necessary to investigate these phenomena and verify their causes and countermeasures in each case because they are strongly dependent on the environment of each port and harbour. From this point of view, long-period oscillations of moored ships in the Port of Shibushi in Japan were investigated by means of wave observations, the image processing of moored ship motions using the video camera and motion-capture software and numerical simulations. From observation results, the relationship between offshore long-period waves and long-period oscillations of moored ships was recognized and surge and heave amplitudes were quantified by using wave data in order to forecast moored ship motions. Furthermore, from observation and numerical results, it was revealed that long-period waves with the peak period of 120 s from the offshore typhoon kept or exaggerated the local harbour oscillation of 60–70 s and it caused long-period oscillations of moored ships. Numerical results in case of reducing the reflection coefficient of the target berth implied that it ceased the local harbour oscillation and it would give an effective countermeasure to reduce long-period oscillations of moored ships in the Port of Shibushi.     

同轴双浮子波能装置水动力特性研究

本文对同轴双浮子波能发电装置进行了深入研究。采用Fortran语言对AQWA进行二次开发,并施以线性及非线性PTO反力,实现了装置的运动模拟,获得了双浮子装置的水动力特性及捕能情况。研究表明,波浪周期及内外浮子质量对装置获能影响显著,建议选用质量比为0.8的双浮子装置,并将其放置于周期与外浮子固有周期接近的海域中以实现最优捕能。     

High resolution downscaled ocean waves (DOW) reanalysis in coastal areas

Large-scale wave reanalysis databases (0.1°–1° spatial resolution) provide valuable information for wave climate research and ocean applications which require long-term time series (> 20 years) of hourly sea state parameters. However, coastal studies need a more detailed spatial resolution (50–500 m) including wave transformation processes in shallow waters. This specific problem, called downscaling, is usually solved applying a dynamical approach by means of numerical wave propagation models requiring a high computational time effort. Besides, the use of atmospheric reanalysis and wave generation and propagation numerical models introduce some uncertainties and errors that must be dealt with. In this work, we present a global framework to downscale wave reanalysis to coastal areas, taking into account the correction of open sea significant wave height (directional calibration) and drastically reducing the CPU time effort (about 1000 ×) by using a hybrid methodology which combines numerical models (dynamical downscaling) and mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). The spatial wave variability along the boundaries of the propagation domain and the simultaneous wind fields are taking into account in the numerical propagations to performance similarly to the dynamical downscaling approach. The principal component analysis is applied to the model forcings to reduce the data dimension simplifying the selection of a subset of numerical simulations and the definition of the wave transfer function which incorporates the dependency of the wave spatial variability and the non-uniform wind forcings. The methodology has been tested in a case study on the northern coast of Spain and validated using shallow water buoys, confirming a good reproduction of the hourly time series structure and the different statistical parameters.     

海浪成长状态对TOPEX/Poseidon高度计风速反演的影响

以墨西哥湾同步高度计、浮标资料为例,研究了海浪成长状态对高度计风速反演的影响。同步的高度计风速和浮标风速比较显示,在墨西哥湾地区,海浪成长状态对高度计风速反演有较大影响。在考虑海浪成长状态影响的条件下,利用谱模型反演高度计风速,取得了较好的效果。与目前TOPEX/Poseidon高度计风速反演业务化算法相比,在海浪未充分成长条件下,考虑海浪成长状态影响后,根据谱模型反演获得的风速与浮标风速之间的均方根误差减小了30%,平均误差减小了83%。在利用谱模型算法反演高度计风速时,谱模型中的波龄因子(表示海浪成长状态)可以根据高度计测得的有效波高和风速获得,因此该方法具有广泛的适用性。     

Moving particle method for modeling wave interaction with porous structures

This paper presents a numerical model for simulating wave interaction with porous structures. Incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics in porous media (ISPHP) method is introduced in this study as a mesh free particle approach that is capable of efficiently tracking the large deformation of free surfaces in a Lagrangian coordinate system. The developed model solves two porous and pure fluid flows simultaneously by means of one equation that is equivalent to the unsteady 2D Navier–Stokes (NS) equations for the flows outside the porous media and the extended Forchheimer equation for the flows inside the porous media. Interface boundary between pure fluid and porous media is effectively modeled by the SPH integration technique. A two-step semi-implicit scheme is also used to solve the fluid pressure satisfying the fluid incompressibility criterion.The developed ISPHP model is then validated via different experimental and numerical data. Fluid flow pattern through porous dam with different porosities is studied and regular wave attenuation over porous seabed is investigated. As a practical case, wave running up and overtopping on a caisson breakwater protected by a porous armor layer are modeled. The results show good agreements between numerical and laboratory data in terms of free surface displacement, overtopping rate and pressure distribution. Based on this study, ISPHP model is an efficient method for simulating the coastal applications with porous structures.     

碟形浮标观测方向波谱误差分析及修正

改进了方向波谱的分析方法及噪声谱经验公式，使本法随测波环境及仪器特性自动修正经验参值，更易于实际应用。基于Maximum heave/pitch quad-spectrum method，由时域及频率域上的浮标动力反应数值计算，推求反应增益因子及相位延迟项，并进一步将其导入方向波谱计算，使其能修正资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟不一致及主波向误差。经数值仿真验证，该方法的确能消减因资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟及对主波向估算所造成之影响。应用花莲现场观测资料验证改良之主波向估算方法，得出是否考虑波浪运动与浮标运动间之振幅响应因子及相位延迟因子，所得之主波向的差异介于0－12℃之间。     

Tsunami Wave Interaction with Data Buoys

To plan for proper mitigation measures, one should have an advanced knowledge of the phenomenon of tsunami propagation from the deep ocean to coastal waters. There are a few methods to predict tsunamis in the ocean waters; one method is the effective use of data buoy measurements. Although data buoys have been used along the Indian waters there has been a tremendous growth in the number of buoy deployment recently. Under the National Data Buoy Programme (NDBP) of India, the 2.2 m diameter discus data buoys were deployed along the east and west coasts of India for measuring meteorological and ocean parameters. It would be advantageous if these buoys could be efficiently used to measure rare events such as tsunamis. Understanding the dynamic behavior of the buoy is of prime importance if a tsunami warning system is to be successful. This may be accomplished through experimental or numerical studies. A comprehensive experimental study has been conducted to understand the dynamic behavior of a wave rider buoy exposed to a variety of waves. It is common that tsunami waves are represented in terms of shallow water waves, namely solitary and cnoidal waves. Hence, in the present study, the discus type data buoy is scale modeled and tested under the action of solitary and cnoidal waves in the laboratory. The time histories of wave elevations, as well as heave and pitch motions of the buoy model, were analyzed through a spectral approach as well as through wavelet transformations. The wavelet approach gives more detailed insight into the spectral characteristics of the buoy motion in the time scale. The harmonic analyses were performed for the cnoidal wave elevations and subsequent motion characteristics that give an insight into the energy variations. The details of the model, instrumentation, testing conditions and the results are presented in this paper.     

An intercomparison of GEOSAT, TOPEX and ERS1 measurements of wind speed and wave height

Mean monthly values of altimeter wind speed and wave height are compared with data from NDBC buoys. As a result of these comparisons, corrections are made to the raw data products available from these satellites. Data from the GEOSAT, TOPEX and ERS1 missions corrected in this fashion are used to show that there have been no measurable changes in the global wind and wave climate during the 10 years spanned by these various missions. It is proposed that the corrected values of wind speed and wave height provide the basis for the formation of a long-term global data base which spans the periods of these multiple missions.     

Spectral wave data assimilation for the prediction of waves in the North Sea

Spectral observations from pitch-and-roll buoys have been assimilated in a North Sea wave model, in order to study their impact on the wave analysis and forecast. The assimilation is based on Optimal Interpolation (OI) of a limited number of characteristic spectral parameters. In a case study, the propagation of the corrections through the model domain is followed, and it is clarified for which wave conditions the data assimilation has the largest influence on the forecast: this is especially the case for swell waves with long travel times between the assimilation site and the location where validation is carried out. A 1-year test has been carried out in which an analysis and subsequent forecast were produced four times a day. From a statistical analysis of the results a modest but systematic improvement of the 12-h forecast is found. When only swell cases are selected, the impact is more pronounced. It is argued that for shelf seas like the North Sea, more progress is to be expected from extension of the ‘conventional' observations network (buoys and wave radars) than from satellite measurements.     

使用参数化初猜测谱算法提取VV极化Sentinel-1 SAR图像的海浪要素并与ECMWF再分析数据以及浮标数据进行验证对比

The purpose is to study the accuracy of ocean wave parameters retrieved from C-band VV-polarization Sentinel-1Synthetic Aperture Radar(SAR) images, including both significant wave height(SWH) and mean wave period(MWP), which are both calculated from a SAR-derived wave spectrum. The wind direction from in situ buoys is used and then the wind speed is retrieved by using a new C-band geophysical model function(GMF) model,denoted as C-SARMOD. Continuously, an algorithm parameterized first-guess spectra method(PFSM) is employed to retrieve the SWH and the MWP by using the SAR-derived wind speed. Forty–five VV-polarization Sentinel-1 SAR images are collected, which cover the in situ buoys around US coastal waters. A total of 52 subscenes are selected from those images. The retrieval results are compared with the measurements from in situ buoys. The comparison performs good for a wind retrieval, showing a 1.6 m/s standard deviation(STD) of the wind speed, while a 0.54 m STD of the SWH and a 2.14 s STD of the MWP are exhibited with an acceptable error.Additional 50 images taken in China's seas were also implemented by using the algorithm PFSM, showing a 0.67 m STD of the SWH and a 2.21 s STD of the MWP compared with European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) reanalysis grids wave data. The results indicate that the algorithm PFSM works for the wave retrieval from VV-polarization Sentinel-1 SAR image through SAR-derived wind speed by using the new GMF C-SARMOD.     

Wave-tide-surge coupled model simulation for Typhoon Maemi

1 IntroductionThe main reason for coupling the tide and surgehydrodynamic model with a surface wave model canbe found in the physical interactions taking place inthe surface and bottom boundary layers. During thesevere storm conditions such interactions a…     

Testing and verifying the wind wave model with an optimized source function

With the purpose of revealing the actual advantages of the new source function that was earlier proposed in [5] for use in numerical wind wave models, its testing and verification was carried out by means of modification of the WAM (Cycle-4) model. The verification was performed on the basis of a comparison of the results of wave simulation for a given wind field with the buoy observation data obtained in three oceanic regions. In the Barents Sea, this kind of comparison was made for wave observations from a single buoy with an interval of 6 hours for a period of 3 years. In two regions of the North Atlantic, the comparison was performed for 3 buoys in both regions for observation periods of 30 days with an interval of 1 hour. Estimations of the simulation accuracy were obtained for a series of wind wave parameters, and they were compared with the original and modified WAM model. Advantages of the modified model consisting of the enhancement of the calculation speed by 20–25% and a 1.5- to 2-fold increase in the simulation accuracy for the significant wave height and the mean period were proved.     

Full scale CFD seakeeping simulations for case study ship redesigned from V-shaped bulbous bow to X-bow hull form

Increasing propulsion efficiency, safety, comfort and operability are of the great importance, especially for small ships operating on windy sites like the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. Seakeeping performance of ships and offshore structures can be analysed by different methods and the one that is becoming increasingly important is CFD RANS. The recent development of simulation techniques together with rising HPC accessibility enables performance of advanced seakeeping simulations for ships in a full scale. The paper presents CFD seakeeping analysis for a case study vessel in two variants: V-shaped bulbous bow hull form (as built) and innovative hull form (X-bow type). The study presents the influence of redesigning the ship on selected seakeeping aspects. The advanced CFD model, with the application of overset mesh technique, was described in detail. Selected numerical results were validated on the basis of experimental testing in a towing tank and showed good agreement. The approach demonstrated here of performing the CFD seakeeping simulations for the analysis of ship performance in a full scale and close to real loading conditions has direct application to the design process as well as in determination of optimal operational parameters of any ship.     

近海工程环境应用中各种风资料的平均时间分析

本文从近海工程设计应用的需要出发，对于通常使用的不同来源的测风资料平均时间进行了分析，这些资料来源包括：岸边及近海探查与生产设施上的气象台站、天气观测船、浮标、商船气象报、从受灾情况估计出的极大风速以及动力诊断模型估计出的海面风速。