Stone mobility and longshore transport at reshaping breakwaters

Physical model tests have been performed in two different wave flumes to analyse the threshold of stone movement and quantify the frequency and length of displacements due to head-on wave attacks at a reshaping breakwater. Data on stone movements were obtained from the observation of cumulative displacements at the end of each wave attack and from video records during the attack. Threshold conditions, frequency of movement and displacement length are expressed as function of a suitably modified stability number.A simple model is defined relating longshore transport due to oblique wave attack to stone mobility. The transport model is based on the assumption that movement statistics is affected by obliquity only through the appropriate mobility index and that stones move during up- and down-rush in the direction of incident and reflected waves. Without any calibration, results compare favourably with experimental data available in literature in the range of low mobility conditions where movement statistics was observed. A calibration is provided in order to obtain an accurate transport formula valid in a wide mobility range i.e. for reshaping breakwaters and up to gravel beaches.     

A two layer model for wave dissipation in sea ice

Sea ice is highly complex due to the inhomogeneity of the physical properties (e.g. temperature and salinity) as well as the permeability and mixture of water and a matrix of sea ice and/or sea ice crystals. Such complexity has proven itself to be difficult to parameterize in operational wave models. Instead, we assume that there exists a self-similarity scaling law which captures the first order properties. Using dimensional analysis, an equation for the kinematic viscosity is derived, which is proportional to the wave frequency and the ice thickness squared. In addition, the model allows for a two-layer structure where the oscillating pressure gradient due to wave propagation only exists in a fraction of the total ice thickness. These two assumptions lead to a spatial dissipation rate that is a function of ice thickness and wavenumber. The derived dissipation rate compares favourably with available field and laboratory observations.     

Surface wave simulation during winter with sea ice in the Bohai Sea

Sea ice can attenuate wave energy significantly when waves propagate through ice covers.In this study,a third-generation wave model called simulating wave nearshore(SWAN)was advanced to include damping of wave energy due to friction in the boundary layer below the ice.With the addition of an eddy viscosity wave-ice model,the resulting new SWAN model was applied to simulate wave height in the Bohai Sea during the freezing winter.Its performance was validated with available buoy data near the ice edge,and the new model showed an improvement in accuracy because it considered the ice effect on waves.We then performed a wave hindcast for the Bohai Sea during a freezing period in the winter of 2016 that had the severest ice conditions in recent years and found that the mean significant wave height changed by approximately 16.52%.In the Liaodong Bay,where sea ice concentration is highest,the change reached 32.57%,compared with the most recent SWAN model version.The average influence of sea ice on wave height simulation was also evaluated over a five-year(2013-2017)hindcast during January and February.We found that the wave height decrease was more significant in storm conditions even the eddy viscosity wave-ice model itself showed no advantage on damping stronger waves.     

Optimization Design of Fairings for VIV Suppression Based on Data-Driven Models and Genetic Algorithm

Vortex induced vibration(VIV)is a challenge in ocean engineering.Several devices including fairings have been designed to suppress VIV.However,how to optimize the design of suppression devices is still a problem to be solved.In this paper,an optimization design methodology is presented based on data-driven models and genetic algorithm(GA).Data-driven models are introduced to substitute complex physics-based equations.GA is used to rapidly search for the optimal suppression device from all possible solutions.Taking fairings as example,VIV response database for different fairings is established based on parameterized models in which model sections of fairings are controlled by several control points and Bezier curves.Then a data-driven model,which can predict the VIV response of fairings with different sections accurately and efficiently,is trained through BP neural network.Finally,a comprehensive optimization method and process is proposed based on GA and the data-driven model.The proposed method is demonstrated by its application to a case.It turns out that the proposed method can perform the optimization design of fairings effectively.VIV can be reduced obviously through the optimization design.     

基于物理关联深度学习的海浪浪高预测方法

精确的海浪有效波高（简称浪高）预测对于海上生产生活具有重要意义。针对现有海浪浪高预测模型对不同海洋要素间关联信息考虑不足,以及长时序浪高数据本身存在非平稳性的问题,本文设计了一种考虑物理约束与差值约束的海浪浪高时间序列预测方法。该方法基于风速与浪高之间的物理关联,设计物理约束,并通过提取差分信息设计差值约束,结合现有基于深度学习的时间序列预测模型,实现浪高预测。采用黄海和东海的6个不同站点浮标数据进行了大量实验。实验结果表明,本文提出的方法可以利用海洋要素间的物理关联,有效提高浪高预测精度,并避免因不同要素间融合造成的信息间干扰;同时,利用差值约束,限制时间序列预测结果的变动范围。本文方法可以与不同类型的时间序列预测模型相结合,显著提升原有模型的性能,并在长时间序列的预测中体现出很好的鲁棒性,为海洋要素预测中物理与数据驱动模型的有效结合提供了思路和验证。     

Research on ultrasonic-based investigation of mechanical properties of ice

Arctic sea ice area and thickness have declined dramatically during the recent decades. Sea ice physical and mechanical properties become increasingly important. Traditional methods of studying ice mechanical parameters such as ice-coring cannot realize field test and long-term observation. A new principle of measuring mechanical properties of ice using ultrasonic was studied and an ultrasonic system was proposed to achieve automatic observation of ice mechanical parameters (Young’s modulus, shear modulus and bulk modulus). The ultrasonic system can measure the ultrasonic velocity through ice at different temperature, salinity and density of ice. When ambient temperature decreased from 0°C to ?30°C, ultrasonic velocity and mechanical properties of ice increased, and vice versa. The shear modulus of the freshwater ice and sea ice varied from 2.098 GPa to 2.48 GPa and 2.927 GPa to 4.374 GPa, respectively. The bulk modulus of freshwater ice remained between 3.074 GPa and 4.566 GPa and the sea ice bulk modulus varied from 1.211 GPa to 3.089 GPa. The freshwater ice Young’s modulus kept between 5.156 GPa and 6.264 GPa and sea ice Young’s modulus varied from 3.793 GPa to 7.492 GPa. The results of ultrasonic measurement are consistent with previous studies and there is a consistent trend of mechanical modulus of ice between the process of ice temperature rising and falling. Finally, this ultrasonic method and the ultrasonic system will help to achieve the long-term observation of ice mechanical properties of ice and improve accuracy of sea ice models.     

Has wind–wave modeling reached its limit?

This article uses a comparison of four different numerical wave prediction models for hindcast wave conditions in Lake Michigan during a 10-day episode in October 1988 to illustrate that typical wave prediction models based on the concept of a wave energy spectrum may have reached a limit in the accuracy with which they can simulate realistic wave generation and growth conditions. In the hindcast study we compared the model results to observed wave height and period measurements from two deep water NOAA/NDBC weather buoys and from a nearshore Waverider buoy. Hourly wind fields interpolated from a large number of coastal and overlake observations were used to drive the models. The same numerical grid was used for all the models. The results show that while the individual model predictions deviate from the measurements by various amounts, they all tend to reflect the general trend and patterns of the wave measurements. The differences between the model results are often similar in magnitude to differences between model results and observations. Although the four models tested represent a wide range of sophistication in their treatment of wave growth dynamics, they are all based on the assumption that the sea state can be represented by a wave energy spectrum. Because there are more similarities among the model results than significant differences, we believe that this assumption may be the limiting factor for substantial improvements in wave modeling.     

地球系统模式FIO-ESM对北极海冰的模拟和预估

评估了地球系统模式FIO-ESM(First Institute of Oceanography-Earth System Model)基于CMIP5(Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5)的历史实验对北极海冰的模拟能力,分析了该模式基于CMIP5未来情景实验在不同典型浓度路径(RCPs,Representative Concentration Pathways)下对北极海冰的预估情况。通过与卫星观测的海冰覆盖范围资料相比,该模式能够很好地模拟出多年平均海冰覆盖范围的季节变化特征,模拟的气候态月平均海冰覆盖范围均在卫星观测值±15%范围以内。FIO-ESM能够较好地模拟1979-2005年期间北极海冰的衰减趋势,模拟衰减速度为每年减少2.24×104 km2,但仍小于观测衰减速度(每年减少4.72×104 km2)。特别值得注意的是:不同于其他模式所预估的海冰一直衰减,FIO-ESM对21世纪北极海冰预估在不同情景下呈现不同的变化趋势,在RCP2.6和RCP4.5情景下,北极海冰总体呈增加趋势,在RCP6情景下,北极海冰基本维持不变,而在RCP8.5情景下,北极海冰呈现继续衰减趋势。     

现场波浪观测技术发展和应用

介绍与海洋工程有关的应用于水下、水面、水上和太空不同空间位置的现场波浪观测技术。根据不同仪器量测的基本原理,分析其对工程应用的适合性和局限性;并讨论了现场波浪观测的发展趋势以及我国应采取的对策。     

Validation of Marine Geoid Models by Profile-wise GNSS Measurements on Ice Surface

Ship-board global navigation satellite system (GNSS) measurements are widely used to determine sea surface heights, marine geoid validation, and/or satellite altimetry calibration. However, the use of a vessel could be complicated near coastal areas due to shallow water. Therefore, in the area of sea ice formation, GNSS measurements on the ice surface could be a viable alternative to vessel-borne surveys. Importantly, the ice-covered water is not affected by short-term winds, which otherwise could have systematic influence on the instantaneous sea surface topography. This study tackles methodology and validation of marine geoid models by profile-wise GNSS measurements on ice in an archipelago of the Baltic Sea. The GNSS measurements were carried out on the three ice roads with total length 48 kilometers. The along-route standard deviation between the gravimetric geoid model and profile-wise GNSS heights remained within ±2.1 centimeters.     

海冰对海浪影响研究综述

受全球气候变化的影响,极区海浪尤其是北极海浪在过去几十年发生了显著的变化,使得海冰边缘区海冰与海浪的相互作用愈发显著。本文从物理海洋学的角度出发,较系统地总结了海冰对海浪作用研究的国内外现状,从理论和实测的角度分别探讨了海冰对海浪能量的耗散及其引起的波动频散关系的变化,同时分析了当前海冰覆盖海域海浪的数值模拟与现场观测研究,指出了未来开展有冰海域海浪数值模拟与预报所面临的主要问题,并对该方向今后的研究做出展望。总体来看,尽管海冰对海浪作用的机理复杂且与海冰类型高度相关,但是海冰对海浪能量的衰减与传播距离基本呈指数关系,并且海冰会一定程度上影响海浪的传播速度。未来依然需要更多不同海冰类型下海浪的观测数据以开展进一步的机理分析、模型检验和参数校准,进而实现高精度的业务化预报。     

基于现场观测数据的HY-2A卫星有效波高校正研究

Significant wave height(SWH) can be computed from the returning waveform of radar altimeter, this parameter is only raw estimates if it does not calibrate. But accurate calibration is important for all applications, especially for climate studies. HY-2a altimeter has been operational since April 2012 and its products are available to the scientific community. In this work, SWH data from HY-2A altimeters are calibrated against in situ buoy data from the National Data Buoy Center(NDBC), Distinguished from previous calibration studies which generally regarded buoy data as "truth", the work of calibration for HY-2A altimeter wave data against in situ buoys was applied a more sophisticated statistical technique—the total least squares(TLS) method which can take into account errors in both variables. We present calibration results for HY-2A radar altimeter measurement of wave height against NDBC buoys. In addition, cross-calibration for HY-2A and Jason-2 wave data are talked over and the result is given.     

利用综合评分方法评估CMIP5模式对北极海冰的模拟能力

北极海冰冰盖自20世纪以来经历了前所未有的缩减,这使得北极海冰异常对大气环流的反馈作用日益显现。尽管目前的气候模式模拟北极海冰均为减少的趋势,但各模式间仍然存在较大的分散性。为了评估模式对于北极海冰变化及其气候效应的模拟能力,我们将海冰线性趋势和年际异常两者结合起来构造了一种合理的衡量指标。我们还强调巴伦支与卡拉海的重要性,因为前人研究证明此区域海冰异常是近年来影响大尺度大气环流变异的关键因子。根据我们设定的标准,CMIP5模式对海冰的模拟可被归为三种类型。这三组多模式集合平均之间存在巨大的差异,验证了这种分组方法的合理性。此外,我们还进一步探讨了造成模式海冰模拟能力差别的潜在物理因子。结果表明模式所采用的臭氧资料集对海冰模拟能力有显著的影响。     

Interaction of uniform current with a circular cylinder submerged below an ice sheet

The problem of a uniform current passing through a circular cylinder submerged below an ice sheet is considered. The fluid flow is described by the linearized velocity potential theory, while the ice sheet is modelled through a thin elastic plate floating on the water surface. The Green function due to a source is first derived, which satisfies all the boundary conditions apart from that on the body surface. Through differentiating the Green function with respect to the source position, the multipoles are obtained. This allows the disturbed velocity potential to be constructed in the form of an infinite series with unknown coefficients which are obtained from the boundary condition. The result shows that there is a critical Froude number which depends on the physical properties of the ice sheet. Below this number there will be no flexural waves propagating to infinity and above this number there will be two waves, one on each side of the body. When the depth based Froude number is larger than 1, there will always be a wave at far upstream of the body. This is similar to those noticed in the related problem and is different from that in the free surface problem without ice sheet. Various results are provided, including the properties of the dispersion equation, resistance and lift, ice sheet deflection, and their physical features are discussed.     

Wave-Ice interaction

1 INTRODUcTIONlt is weIl known by whalers and sealers tha in iee covered seas wave is attenuatedas it lnoves inward from the ice edge. But Systematic obsewation on the attenuationphenomenon is rare. Some examples are given in the references [l-3]. In these referenceS,direct measurementS on wave attenuation dije to ice covers are repeded. Theoretical foundationis needed to explain these observations in order to generelize the resultS. These generalizedlesults can then be appIted to wave-…     

Simulated South Atlantic transports and their variability during 1958–2007

South Atlantic transports, as simulated by a global ocean-sea ice model forced with the Coordinated Ocean-ice Reference Experiments version 2 (CORE-II) interannually varying air-sea reanalysis data sets, are analyzed for the period 1958–2007. The ocean-sea ice model is configured at three different resolutions: from eddy-permitting to coarsened grid spacing. A particular focus is given to the effect of eddy fluxes and inter-ocean exchanges on the South Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation (SAMOC), as well as on the main factors contributing to the interannual variability during the integration period. Differences between refined and coarsened grid spacing models are more evident in coastal areas and in regions of high eddy activities. Major discrepancies are associated to both the parameterization of eddy fluxes and the coarse representation of the bathymetry. The refined grid spacing model produces higher values of both SAMOC index, defined as the maximum of the zonally-integrated northward cumulative volume transport (CVT) from surface to bottom across ∼34° S, and meridional heat transport (MHT). All models show high correlations between SAMOC index and MHT, as well as a strengthening of the transports in the 1980–2007 period. The strengthening of the SAMOC index is mainly dominated by surface and mode waters in all models. In surface and intermediate layers, the regions contributing to this trend are located east of 40° W. These changes are compensated by the strengthening of the poleward transport in deeper layers, mostly in the western part of the basin. The MHT trend is connected with the combined effect of a heat transport increase through the Drake Passage and a reduction of the heat loss through the eastern section between Africa and Antarctica, mainly associated with a strengthening in heat entering into the basin through the Agulhas system.     

基于Argo浮标的南极海冰范围变化分析

南极海冰的生消冻融与全球气候变化息息相关,多年以来受到国际社会的高度关注。目前已有诸多关于南极海冰范围变化的研究,但大部分是基于卫星遥感影像来展开分析。Argo观测网遍布全球各大洋,为海冰范围研究提供了一种新的思路,即根据浮标GPS点的南部边界推算南极海冰边界,由浮标的年、月累积数据得到南极海冰范围的年际、月际变化规律。对于这种研究思路提出了三种实现方法:(1)绘制专题图,可以清晰直观地看到南极海冰在2—9月间的生消变化情况;(2)利用南极附近浮标GPS点数量占全球比例的变化情况来分析海冰变化规律,在月际变化趋势上与影像数据一致,在年际变化上稍显不足;(3)使用点密度分析方法估计海冰边界,建立基于浮标GPS点密度的海冰-海水分界模型,可得到南极海冰范围变化规律的定量分析结果。浮标数据与影像数据互为补充,可为全球气候变化研究提供更多参考。     

Uncertainty Analysis of Wind-Wave Predictions in Lake Michigan

With all the improvement in wave and hydrodynamics numerical models, the question rises in our mind that how the accuracy of the forcing functions and their input can affect the results. In this paper, a commonly used numerical third-generation wave model, SWAN is applied to predict waves in Lake Michigan. Wind data are analyzed to determine wind variation frequency over Lake Michigan. Wave predictions uncertainty due to wind local effects are compared during a period where wind has a fairly constant speed and direction over the northern and southern basins. The study shows that despite model calibration in Lake Michigan area, the model deficiency arises from ignoring wind effects in small scales. Wave prediction also emphasizes that small scale turbulence in meteorological forces can increase prediction errors by 38%. Wave frequency and coherence analysis show that both models can predict the wave variation time scale with the same accuracy. Insufficient number of meteorological stations can result in neglecting local wind effects and discrepancies in current predictions. The uncertainty of wave numerical models due to input uncertainties and model principals should be taken into account for design risk factors.     

Extreme wave crest distribution by direct numerical simulations of long-crested nonlinear wave fields

The wave crest height qualification checks are required during the wave calibration before the model test in wave basin. However, the reliable criteria of nonlinear wave crest probability distribution in 3-h duration (full-scale) has not been well established yet. We investigate wave crest-height statistics of long-crested nonlinear wave fields using high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can take the effects of both second-order bound waves and third-order free waves into account. The energy dissipation effects due to wave breaking were included by employing an eddy viscosity model. Sensitivity analyses to the wave breaking onset criterion have been performed. Validation is provided by comparing the obtained numerical results with the available calibration test data. Based on extensive and direct numerical simulations, semi-empirical single realization distributions for wave calibration have been developed through 3-parameter Weibull fitting and systematic regression analyses. Particular attention has been paid to the tail of upper bound of wave crest distributions. The effects of wave steepness and water depth on the maximum wave crest height in 3-h duration have been examined. It is found that with the increase of wave steepness, the extreme wave crest height increases until it reaches a critical value. In addition, for the scale water depth k_ph < 1.36, the maximum crest height decreases as the water depth increases, while in the opposite case the maximum crest height increases as the water depth increases. Moreover, it is confirmed that that the fourth-order nonlinearity does not have significant effects on the distribution of the wave crest height.