Estimation of JONSWAP Spectral Parameters by Using Measured Wave Data

- This paper presents the method of determining JONSWAP spectrum by using measured wave data. If Hs, Tz and Tc are the measured significant wave height, average zero-up crossing wave period and average period between wave crests respectively and let y = T Z / TC; this paper provides equation to solve y fromf(y,y) = 0. From the solutions of this equation and by using LSM, the expression relating y as a function of y (for 2.54相似文献   

Efficient Simulation of Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum.The evolution of initial random wave trains is numerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schruedinger equation (mNLSE),and some involved influence factors are also discussed.Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied,a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train,and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips parameter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves.The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.     

Prediction of wave height and period for a constant wind velocity using the JONSWAP results

The results of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), carried out in the North Sea in 1969, are used to derive formulae for significant wave height and wave period in terms of the wind speed (assumed constant) and fetch or duration. Values from the wave height formula are compared with those from the formulae of Bretschneider (1973) and Darbyshire (1963). It is proposed that the JONSWAP results be used for the prediction of fetch and duration limited waves formed under the action of the local wind field.     

Bode积分定理在舵减摇H∞设计中应用

针对舵减摇系统的 H∞混合灵敏度问题,研究了控制系统设计中的限制因素,指出舵减摇控制系统的性能(灵敏度特性)要受到Bode积分定理的约束,因此在船舶横摇自然频率附近的频段内性能不能做到太低.考虑这些限制条件,并从基本的性能要求出发,详细说明了舵减摇系统 H∞设计中权函数的确定.经过多次重新设计和对比,给出了一组最为合理的设计结果.仿真结果表明,所设计的 H∞控制系统满足性能要求,而且取得了很高地减摇效果.     

Laser doppler anemometer measurements of irregular water wave kinematics

The location of offshore structures for the purpose of recovering deep water resources has provided the impetus to more accurately predict forces acting on the structure so that costs can be minimized while the structure can safely withstand environmental forces. Accurate prediction of wave kinematics is a vital step in the more accurate prediction of environmental forces. In this study, a laser Doppler anemometer is used to measure the horizontal velocity under the largest wave occurring in an irregular sea generated in a laboratory wave tank. Specifically, JONSWAP and Pierson-Moskowitz wave spectra were generated in the wave tank and the horizontal velocity was measured at locations both above and below the still water level beneath the wave crest. The laboratory measured velocity values tend to lie between those predicted by linear extrapolation and Wheeler stretching. The results are not consistently predicted by either of the stretching methods, and therefore, it is not known which method will give a more accurate prediction before the data are measured.     

波致应力的近似求解及其太平洋特征分析

基于波致应力计算中对海浪谱和波浪增长率公式的敏感性分析,选择适当的波致应力近似求解方法,计算和探讨了太平洋波致应力的时空分布特征。敏感性分析中,选择了4种常用的波浪增长率公式和3种经验解析海浪谱。推导了计算波致应力的单波公式,并将其与JONSWAP谱积分公式和Elfouhaily谱积分公式进行比较,同时使用了由风速和有效波高资料构造的Elfouhaily谱积分公式计算太平洋波致应力。结果表明:Belcher等(1993)的波浪增长率计算公式估算的波致应力与实验数据吻合度较好,同时适用ERA-interim数据;当波龄小于1.2时运用Elfouhaily谱积分公式更合适,当波龄大于1.2时运用单波公式更快速有效;太平洋的波致应力分布与风场之间存在明显的相关性;2009年1月、4月、7月和10月太平洋波致应力的季节性特征分析表明四个季节的西风带波致应力较其他地区都更强盛,而在时间变化上1月和10月为波致应力整体较为强盛的时期。     

风浪波高和周期的联合概率密度分布

本文采用有代表性的44008美国国家浮标站2003年1～3月实测的海浪谱密度资料,选取三次大风过程进行风浪谱分析。通过对实测平均海浪谱与PM谱、JONSWAP谱及Torsethaugen谱的比较,得到PM谱拟和最好。然后用国际上最先进的随机波分析方法,根据协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,以实测平均谱与PM谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟。得到由模拟波面统计的特征值及估计的谱与实测谱结果极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致。说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征。利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算波高-周期联合概率密度分布,得到变换高斯过程计算的波高、周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布。     

Problems inherent in using aircraft for radio oceanography studies

Some of the disadvantages relating to altitude stability and proximity to the ocean are described for radio oceanography studies using aircraft. The random oscillatory motion introduced by the autopilot in maintaining aircraft altitude requires a more sophisticated range tracker for a radar altimeter than would be required in a satellite application. One-dimensional simulations of the sea surface (long-crested waves) are performed using both the JONSWAP spectrum and the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum. The results of the simulations indicate that care must be taken in trying to experimentally verify instrument measurement accuracy. Because of the relatively few wavelengths examined from an aircraft due to proximity to the ocean and low velocity compared to a satellite, the random variation in the sea surface parameters being measured can far exceed an instrument's ability to measure them.     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

广东阳西近岸海域海浪谱分析

根据广东阳西近岸海域测站1a实测共4 949组的原始随机波面观测记录,用自相关函数法和快速傅里叶变换法进行谱估计,得到波谱各特征参数,并与实测波面统计的特征值进行比较,经分析,选用快速傅里叶变换法估计研究海域的实测谱,对粗谱进行平滑和分析,筛选出研究海域海浪的样本谱498个,将平滑后的谱形无维量化,得到广东阳西海域海浪无维量平均谱曲线并求出对应谱参数,计算得到谱峰频率f0为0.121,特征频率μ10、μ20分别为1.929、2.733,谱宽度ε、ν为0.83、1.39.采用5种理论频谱模式对实测无维量谱进行拟合,根据拟合结果推荐γ=1.920 5的JONSWAP谱或者b=5.7、δ=6.0、k=0.5的莆田谱作为广东阳西近岸海域的海浪谱型,对该海区的工程建设、海浪预报警报和海浪理论研究具有较好的参考作用,对我国其他类似海域也有一定的参考价值.     

降雨条件下的导航X波段雷达海浪参数反演算法研究

X波段的电磁波受降雨影响容易产生衰减,这导致导航X波段雷达在降雨时无法用于海浪观测。本文提出了一种新的降低降雨影响的算法来反演海浪参数。首先,对X波段雷达图像做主成分分析,获得波浪变化的主成分,利用一维傅里叶变换得到波数谱,对其滤波减小降雨对雷达图像的影响;然后,选取JONSWAP(Joint North Sea Wave Project)谱作为理论谱,建立以观测谱与理论谱的最小化差异为目标函数的模型,求解该模型估算海浪的有效波高。与浮标测量的有效波高相比,该方法反演的有效波高的均方根误差是0.23 m,证明了该方法的可行性。     

A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.     

A new formula for the sea state and structural parameters influencing the stability of homogeneous reshaping berm breakwaters

The berm recession of a reshaping berm breakwater has a very important role for the stability of this kind of structure. Based on a 2D experimental modeling method in a wave flume, the recession of the berm due to sea state and structural parameters has been studied. Irregular waves with a JONSWAP spectrum were used. A total of 215 tests have been performed to cover the impact of sea state conditions such as wave height, wave period, storm duration and water depth at the toe of the structure, and structural parameters such as berm elevation from still water level, berm width and stone diameter on berm recession. In this paper, first a new dimensionless parameter is introduced to evaluate the combined effect of wave height and wave period on berm recession using results of the experimental work. Then, a formula that includes some sea state and structural parameters is derived using the new dimensionless parameter for estimating the berm recession. A comparison is made between the estimated berm recessions by this new formula and formulae given by other researchers to show the preference of using the new dimensionless parameter. The comparison shows that the recession estimated by the new formula has not only a better correlation with the present experimental data, but also has an improved correlation with other experimental results within the range of parameters tested. Outside the range of parameters tested the Lykke Andersen (2006) formula performed best.     

Influence of Energy Directional Spread on Wave Spectral Refraction

Pierson- Moskowitz Spectrum, JONSWAP Spectrum as well as Bretschneider- Mitsuyasu Spectrum are used in this paper for analyzing the influence of wave energy directional spread on refraction of wave spectrum due to both current and topography of sea bed. The author's calculation indicates that such kind influence on the characteristic value of wave height as well as the average direction of wave energy propagation can not be ignored.     

Spectral characteristics of high shallow water waves

The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper.     

The SWAN model used to study wave evolution in a flume

The SWAN numerical model is used to model the evolution of JONSWAP wave spectra and hence the significant wave height of waves in a tank. Comparison with experiment has shown that modelling triad interactions in the numerical model leads to too low predictions of spectra and significant wave height and should therefore be excluded. The modelling of the breaking constant was also investigated, by looking at the use of a constant breaking constant, Nelson formula, and Goda formula (added into SWAN for this study). Using a constant value of 0.78 within SWAN gave the best comparison between theory and experiment.     

海浪谱高阶谱矩的计算

分析了海浪谱高阶谱矩不存在的原因。在Ｇｌａｚｍａｎ研究结果的基础上计算了目前工程上常用的ＰＭ谱和ＪＯＮＳＷＡＰ谱的０阶到８阶的谱矩值,以方便实际工程的应用。     

波浪谱形对不规则波数值模拟的影响

通过数值模拟分析了波浪谱形对不规则波浪数值模拟结果的影响.采用不同参数的JONSWAP谱模拟入射波要素,基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪的传播,分析了波浪谱形状对波浪数值模拟结果的影响.结果表明,采用抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪时,入射波浪谱形对模拟结果影响不明显;但由于模型中非线性项的影响,采用不规则波模拟的波高分布和采用规则波模拟的结果略有差别.     

Diffraction of a directionally spread wave group by a cylinder

The problem of diffraction of a directionally spread focused wave group by a bottom-seated circular cylinder is considered from the viewpoint of second-order perturbation theory. After applying the time Fourier transform and separation of vertical variable the resulting two-dimensional non-homogeneous Helmholtz equations are solved numerically using finite differences. The detailed formulation of the second-order radiation condition is presented. Numerical solutions of the problem are obtained for JONSWAP amplitude spectra for the incoming wave group with various types of directional spreading. The results are compared with the corresponding results for a unidirectional wave group of the same amplitude spectrum. Finally we discuss the applicability of the averaged spreading angle concept for practical applications.     

深水风浪的平均波长与平均周期的关系

在Gaussian波场基础上,推导出以P-M谱和平均JONSWAP谱代表的充分成长和有限风区的深水风浪平均波长与平均波周期之间的关系为.推导中运用了Rice跨零点问题的解并通过滑动时间平均技术估计4阶谱矩.在风浪水槽进行了实验,实验结果与有限风区下推导出的关系相比较,符合较好.