Wave attenuation mechanism of cross-plates applied in landslide-induced tsunami in river course

Since the impounding of the Three Gorges Reservoir, the channel of the Yangtze River has become a busy watercourse and the probability of landslide-induced tsunamis has increased. In the case of landslide-induced tsunamis in the Three Gorges Reservoir, even after shipping closures in advance, there are still facilities and objects in urgent need of protection within the risk zone of the watercourse, such as wharfs, marine fueling stations, berthed ships. The emergency protection against and decay of landslide-induced tsunamis in inland watercourses is a new challenge. In this study, 37 sets of wave decay experiments were conducted with the hydromechanics numerical method. The wave decay efficiencies of common simple structures including submerged horizontal plate, horizontal plate on the water surface, inclined thin plate and cross-plates in coastal areas were compared and analyzed. Cross-plates structure showed better wave decay capacity than other simple plates. The wave decay performance of cross-plates was related to five modes of energy dissipation and transformation, namely run-up/run-down, overtopping, reflecting, return flow and disturbed wave orbital path. The type of wave had little relation with the decay performance of cross-plates, but a strong correlation with cross-plates structure, especially the height of the vertical emerged plate. The best decay performance was observed when the ratio of wave amplitude to emerged vertical plate height was between 1 and 1.5, which can reduce up to about 80% of the incoming wave amplitude. Finally, the emergency way of cross-plates applied to the decay of landslide-induced tsunami in river course is discussed. This study provides a conceptual reference for related studies to practice the attenuation of landslide-induced tsunami in reservoirs.     

Validation of an operational forecasting system of sea dike risk in the southern Zhejiang Province,South China

In this study, an operational forecasting system of sea dike risk in the southern Zhejiang Province, South China was developed based on a coupled storm-surge and wave model. This forecasting system is important because of the high cost of storm-surge damage and the need for rapid emergency planning. A comparison with astronomical tides in 2016 and the validation of storm surges and high water marks of 20 typhoons verified that the forecast system has a good simulation ability. The system can forecast relatively realistic water levels and wave heights as shown under the parametric atmospheric forces simulated in a case study; the sea dikes in credible high risk were mainly located in the estuaries, rivers, and around the islands in the southern Zhejiang. Therefore, the forecast system is applicable in the southern Zhejiang with a support to the effective prevention from typhoon storm-surge damage.     

Experimental wave attenuation study over flexible plants on a submerged slope

Using plants is a kind of environmentally-friendly coastal protection to attenuate wave energy. In this paper, a set of experiments were conducted to investigate the wave attenuation performance using flexible grasses on a submerged slope, and the wave attenuation coefficient for these experiments was calculated for different still water depths, slope and grass configurations. It was found that the slope plays a significant role in wave attenuation. The wave attenuation coefficient increases with increasing relative row number and relative density. For a small relative row number, the two configurations from the slope top to its toe and from the slope toe to its top performed equally to a large extent. For a medium relative row number, the configuration from the slope toe to its top performed more poorly than that from the slope top to its toe; however, it performed better than that from the slope top to its toe for a high relative row number. With a single row of grasses close to the slope top from the slope toe, the wave attenuation coefficient shows double peaks. With increasing grass rows or still water depth, the grass location corresponding to the maximum wave attenuation coefficient is close to the slope top. The dimensional analysis and the least square method were used to derive an empirical equation of the wave attenuation coefficient considering the effect of relative density, the slope, the relative row number and the relative location of the middle row, and the equation was validated to experimental data.     

A New Multigrid 3D-VAR Optimization Method for Bottom Friction Using HF Radar Current Observation

This paper proposes a new method for data assimilation of the surface radial current observed by High Frequency ground wave radar and optimization of the bottom friction coefficient. In this method, the shallow water wave equation is introduced into the cost function of the multigrid three-dimensional variation data assimilation method as the weak constraint term, the surface current and the bottom friction coefficient are defined as the analytical variables, and the high spatiotemporal resolution surface radial flow observed by the high-frequency ground wave radar is used to optimize the surface current and bottom friction coefficient. This method can effectively consider the spatiotemporal correlation of radar data and extract multiscale information from surface radial flow data from long waves to short waves. Introducing the shallow water wave equation into the cost function as a weak constraint condition can adjust both the momentum and mass fields simultaneously to obtain more reasonable analysis information. The optimized bottom friction coefficient is introduced into the regional ocean numerical model to carry out numerical experiments. The test results show that the bottom friction coefficient obtained by this method can effectively improve the accuracy of the numerical simulation of sea surface height in the offshore area and reduce the simulation error.     

A preliminary study on the intensity of cold wave storm surges of Laizhou Bay

Dike failure and marine losses are quite prominent in Laizhou Bay during the period of cold wave storm surges because of its open coastline to the north and flat topography. In order to evaluate the intensity of cold wave storm surge, the hindcast of marine elements induced by cold waves in Laizhou Bay from 1985 to 2004 is conducted using a cold wave storm surge–wave coupled model and the joint return period of extreme water level, concomitant wave height, and concomitant wind speed are calculated. A new criterion of cold wave storm surge intensity based on such studies is developed. Considering the frequency of cold wave, this paper introduces a Poisson trivariate compound reconstruction model to calculate the joint return period, which is closer to the reality. By using the newly defined cold wave storm surge intensity, the ‘cold wave grade' in meteorology can better describe the severity of cold wave storm surges and the warning level is well corresponding to different intensities of cold wave storm surges. Therefore, it provides a proper guidance to marine hydrological analysis, disaster prevention and marine structure design in Laizhou Bay.     

湖泊水体叶绿素a含量估算的波段宽度变化影响分析——以太湖为例

为研究不同波段宽度遥感数据对监测水体叶绿素a含量的影响,以太湖水体实测高光谱遥感反射率数据为基础,分析计算不同波段宽度下遥感反射率的归一化值与叶绿素a浓度之间的相关系数。随着波段宽度在75.93nm范围内不断递增,最大相关系数逐渐减小,最大正相关波段向长波方向移动,最大负相关波段向短波方向移动。而波段宽度在31.6nm范围内变化时,最大正相关波段和最大负相关波段都会保持相对稳定。通过对不同波段处相关系数平均值和标准差的对比分析认为,718.77^~34.58nm为叶绿素a遥感监测的最佳波段范围。这将对遥感传感器的波段设置,以及实际水体叶绿素a遥感监测时的波段选择,具有重要的参考价值。     

Numerical Simulation and Analysis of Storm Surges Under Different Extreme Weather Event and Typhoon Experiments in the South Yellow Sea

In this study,a coupled tide-surge-wave model was developed and applied to the South Yellow Sea.The coupled model simulated the evolution of storm surges and waves caused by extreme weather events,such as tropical cyclones,cold waves,extratropical cyclones coupled with a cold wave,and tropical cyclones coupled with a cold wave.The modeled surge level and significant wave height matched the measured data well.Simulation results of the typhoon with different intensities revealed that the radius to the maximum wind speed of a typhoon with 1.5 times wind speed decreased,and its influence range was farther away from the Jiangsu coastal region;moreover,the impact on surge levels was weakened.Thereafter,eight hypothetical typhoons based on Typhoon Chan-hom were designed to investigate the effects of varying typhoon tracks on the extreme value and spatial distribution of storm surges in the offshore area of Jiangsu Province.The typhoon along path 2 mainly affected the Rudong coast,and the topography of the Rudong coast was conducive to the increase in surge level.Therefore,the typhoon along path 2 induced the largest surge level,which reached up to 2.91 m in the radial sand ridge area.The maximum surge levels in the Haizhou Bay area and the middle straight coastline area reached up to 2.37 and 2.08 m,respectively.In terms of typhoons active in offshore areas,the radial sand ridge area was most likely to be threatened by typhoon-induced storm surges.     

The Nonlinear Interaction Process in the wave Assimilation Model and Its Experiments

This paper presents a composite interaction formula based on the discrete-interaction operator of wave-wave nonlinear interaction for deriving its adjoint source function in the wave assimilation model.Assimilation experiments were performed using the significant wave heights observed by the TOPES/POSEIDON satellite,and the gradinet distribution in the physical space was also analyzed preliminarily.     

Experimental Investigation of Wave Load and Run-up on the Composite Bucket Foundation Influenced by Regular Waves

In the design of wind turbine foundations for offshore wind farms, the wave load and run-up slamming on the supporting structure are the quantities that need to be considered. Because of a special arc transition, the interaction between the wave field and the composite bucket foundation(CBF) becomes complicated. In this study, the hydrodynamic characteristics, including wave pressure, load, upwelling, and run-up, around the arc transition of a CBF influenced by regular waves are investigated through physical tests at Shandong Provincial Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering, Ocean University of China. The distributions of the wave pressures and upwelling ratios around the CBF are described, and the relationship between the wave load and the wave parameters is discussed. New formulae based on the velocity stagnation head theory with linear wave theory and the second-order Stokes wave theory for wave kinematics are proposed to estimate the wave run-up. Moreover, the multiple regression method with nonlinear technology is employed to deduce an empirical formula for predicting run-up heights. Results show that the non-dimensional wave load increases with the increase in the values of the wave scattering parameter and relative wave height. The wave upwelling height is high in front of the CBF and has the lowest value at an angle of 135? with the incoming wave direction. The performance of the new formulae proposed in this study is compared using statistical indices to demonstrate that a good fit is obtained by the multiple regression method and the analytical model based on the velocity stagnation head theory is underdeveloped.     

NUMERICAL STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF WAVES AND TIDE-SURGE INTERACTION ON TIDE-SURGES IN THE BOHAI SEA

Abstract The author‘s combined numerical model consisting of a third generation shallow water wave model and a 3-D tide-surge model with wave-dependent surface wind stress were used to study the influence of waves on fide-surge motion. For the typical weather case, in this study, the magnitude and mechanism of the influence of waves on tide-surges in the Bohai Sea were revealed for the first time. The results showed that although consideration of the wave-dependent surface wind stresses raise slightly the traditional surface wind stress, due to the accumulated effects, the computed results are improved on the whole. Storm level maximum modulation can reach 0.4 m. The results computed by the combined model agreed well with the measured data.     

Accuracy of the staggered-grid finite-difference method of the acoustic wave equation for marine seismic reflection modeling

Seismic wave modeling is a cornerstone of geophysical data acquisition, processing, and interpretation, for which finite-difference methods are often applied. In this paper, we extend the velocity-pressure formulation of the acoustic wave equation to marine seismic modeling using the staggered-grid finite-difference method. The scheme is developed using a fourth-order spatial and a second-order temporal operator. Then, we define a stability coefficient (SC) and calculate its maximum value under the stability condition. Based on the dispersion relationship, we conduct a detailed dispersion analysis for submarine sediments in terms of the phase and group velocity over a range of angles, stability coefficients, and orders. We also compare the numerical solution with the exact solution for a P-wave line source in a homogeneous submarine model. Additionally, the numerical results determined by a Marmousi2 model with a rugged seafloor indicate that this method is sufficient for modeling complex submarine structures.     

Separation of up-going and down-going wave fields of vertical cable data

The vertical cable method for acquiring and processing pre-stack 3-D marine seismic data is based on the technology developed by the US Navy for antisubmarine warfare. In order to achieve the maximum utilization of vertical cable field data, a new separation method of the up-going and down-going wave fields of the vertical cable data processing was developed in this paper, which is different from the separation of the down-going and up-going wave fields of normal VSP data processing. In tests with synthetic modeling data andactual field data, this newly developed method performs well and is also computationally simpler without pre-assumption conditions.     

GENERALIZED WAVE EQUATION FINITE ELEMENT METHOD FOR SOLVING TWO-DIMENSIONAL TIDAL WAVES

The study of tidal circulation has a long history . The numerical simulation of tidal flow has been developed greatly with the development of computer techniques in the past two decades. The generalized wave equation finite-element method is a relatively new numerical model for studying shallow water flow . This method was used to simulate tidal waves of the Gulf of St. Lawrence in Canada . The very good agreement of the numerical results with the field data indicated that the model is an effective and promising numerical method for solving two-dimensional tidal wave problems .     

The Characteristics of Storm Wave Behavior and Its Effect on Cage Culture Using the ADCIRC+SWAN Model in Houshui Bay,China

The current storm wave hazard assessment tends to rely on a statistical method using wave models and fewer historical data which do not consider the effects of tidal and storm surge.In this paper,the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN was used to hindcast storm events in the last 30 years.We simulated storm wave on the basis of a large set of historical storms in the North-West Pacific Basin between 1985 and 2015 in Houshui Bay using the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN to obtain the storm wave level maps.The results were used for the statistical analysis of the maximum significant wave heights in Houshui Bay and the behavior of wave associated with storm track.Comparisons made between observations and simulated results during typhoon Rammasun(2014)indicate agreement.In addition,results demonstrate that significant wave height in Houshui Bay is dominated by the storm wind velocity and the storm track.Two groups of synthetic storm tracks were designed to further investigate the worst case of typhoon scenarios.The storm wave analysis method developed for the Houshui Bay is significant in assisting government's decision-making in rational planning of deep sea net-cage culture.The method can be applied to other bays in the Hainan Island as well.     

Long-term variation of storm surge-associated waves in the Bohai Sea

When investigating the long-term variation of wave characteristics as associated with storm surges in the Bohai Sea, the Simulating Waves Nearshore(SWAN) model and ADvanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC) model were coupled to simulate 32 storm surges between 1985 and 2014. This simulation was validated by reproducing three actual wave processes, showing that the simulated significant wave height(SWH) and mean wave period agreed well with the actual measurements. In addition, the long-term variations in SWH, patterns in SWH extremes along the Bohai Sea coast, the 100-year return period SWH extreme distribution, and waves conditional probability distribution were calculated and analyzed. We find that the trend of SWH extremes in most of the coastal stations was negative, among which the largest trend was-0.03 m/a in the western part of Liaodong Bay. From the 100-year return period of the SWH distribution calculated in the Gumbel method, we find that the SWH extremes associated with storm surges decreased gradually from the center of the Bohai Sea to the coast. In addition, the joint probability of wave and surge for the entire Bohai Sea in 100-year return period was determined by the Gumbel logistic method. We therefore, assuming a minimum surge of one meter across the entire Bohai Sea, obtained the spatial SWH distribution. The conclusions of this study are significant for offshore and coastal engineering design.     

浑厚山体随高程增加由表及里地震动响应研究

为探究浑厚山体不同高程由表及里地震动响应规律,以冷竹关山体为例,采用离散元软件建立地形与风化介质组合模型,并从底部边界输入汶川地震波信号,研究该山体两侧边坡的内外动力响应规律。结果表明,随着高程的增加,靠大渡河一侧边坡坡体内与坡表的加速度放大系数均表现出先增大后减小的节律性变化,在近坡顶时增大较快并达到最大值;靠近瓦斯沟一侧边坡坡表受地形起伏的影响,加速度放大系数存在凸坡放大、凹坡减小的特征;相同高程,随边坡由表及里深度的增加,加速度放大系数表现为逐步减小,当距坡表150~200 m时放大曲线趋于平缓;随高程的增加,加速度放大系数由表及里的减小速度变缓,且放大曲线收敛平缓的深度增大;随岩体风化程度的增加,岩体介质波速降低,共振效应使得加速度响应增大,与此同时,斜坡地形与介质组合效应使得坡表峰值加速度放大系数在2.0附近。     

CALCULATIONS OF WAVE BREAKING PROBABILITY AND DISTRIBUTION OF BREAKING WAVE HEIGHTS IN DEEP WATER

lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(…     

Climate projections of spatial variations in coastal storm surges along the Gulf of Mexico and U.S. east coast

Using statistically downscaled atmospheric forcing, we performed a numerical investigation to evaluate future climate's impact on storm surges along the Gulf of Mexico and U.S. east coast. The focus is on the impact of climatic changes in wind pattern and surface pressure while neglecting sea level rise and other factors. We adapted the regional ocean model system(ROMS) to the study region with a mesh grid size of 7–10 km in horizontal and 18 vertical layers. The model was validated by a hindcast of the coastal sea levels in the winter of 2008. Model's robustness was confirmed by the good agreement between model-simulated and observed sea levels at 37 tidal gages. Two 10-year forecasts, one for the IPCC Pre-Industry(PI) and the other for the A1 FI scenario, were conducted. The differences in model-simulated surge heights under the two climate scenarios were analyzed. We identified three types of responses in extreme surge heights to future climate: a clear decrease in Middle Atlantic Bight, an increase in the western Gulf of Mexico, and non-significant response for the remaining area. Such spatial pattern is also consistent with previous projections of sea surface winds and ocean wave heights.     

A relationship between wave steepness and wave age for wind waves in deep water

Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity wave in deep water, a new relationship between wave steepness and wave age is revealed based on the “3/2-power law” (Toba, 1972), in which wave steepness is a function of wave age with a drag coefficient as a parameter. With a given wave age, a larger drag coefficient would lead to larger wave steepness. This could be interpreted as the result of interaction between wind and waves. Comparing with previous relationships, the newly proposed one is more consistent with observational data in field and laboratory.     

Hydrodynamic conditions in front of a vertical wall with an overhanging horizontal cantilever slab

Transforming wave heights from offshore to the shoreline is the first step of any coastal engineering work. Wave breaking is analyzed to understand hydrodynamic conditions. For vertical breakwaters and sea walls, wave reflection is an important process that affects the determination of the wave height. Many of the design formulas presented in the literature depend on empirical studies based on the structures tested. In this study, the hydrodynamic conditions in front of a vertical wall with an overhanging horizontal cantilever slab with a foreshore slope of 1/20 are determined experimentally under regular wave conditions to assess the applicability of the formulas of Goda (2000) for predicting the nearshore wave height and breaker index equation (Goda, 2010). The selection of wave measurements used to determine the design wave height, the reflection coefficients, and wave breaking is also analyzed, and the reflection equations are derived from the dataset covering different breaker types. Small-scale tests show that the incident wave height is a good representative of the design wave height and that the values predicted by Goda are in good agreement with actual measurements. However, the predicted H_max values are overestimated. In addition, the inception of the wave breaking point is postponed because of the reflection and/or turbulence left over from preceding waves, which is an effect of the vertical wall. At higher water levels, the effect of the vertical wall on the inception point becomes more significant.