Beach erosion under rising sea‐level modulated by coastal geomorphology and sediment availability on carbonate reef‐fringed island coasts

This study addresses gaps in understanding the relative roles of sea‐level change, coastal geomorphology and sediment availability in driving beach erosion at the scale of individual beaches. Patterns of historical shoreline change are examined for spatial relationships to geomorphology and for temporal relationships to late‐Holocene and modern sea‐level change. The study area shoreline on the north‐east coast of Oahu, Hawaii, is characterized by a series of kilometre‐long beaches with repeated headland‐embayed morphology fronted by a carbonate fringing reef. The beaches are the seaward edge of a carbonate sand‐rich coastal strand plain, a common morphological setting in tectonically stable tropical island coasts. Multiple lines of geological evidence indicate that the strand plain prograded atop a fringing reef platform during a period of late‐Holocene sea‐level fall. Analysis of historical shoreline changes indicates an overall trend of erosion (shoreline recession) along headland sections of beach and an overall trend of stable to accreting beaches along adjoining embayed sections. Eighty‐eight per cent of headland beaches eroded over the past century at an average rate of ?0·12 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. In contrast, 56% of embayed beaches accreted at an average rate of 0·04 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. Given over a century of global (and local) sea‐level rise, the data indicate that embayed beaches are showing remarkable resiliency. The pattern of headland beach erosion and stable to accreting embayments suggests a shift from accretion to erosion particular to the headland beaches with the initiation of modern sea‐level rise. These results emphasize the need to account for localized variations in beach erosion related to geomorphology and alongshore sediment transport in attempting to forecast future shoreline change under increasing sea‐level rise.     

Seasonal impact on beach morphology and the status of heavy mineral deposition – central Tamil Nadu coast,India

The aim of the present research was to investigate the seasonal impact on nearshore beach dynamics and the status of heavy mineral distribution along central Tamil Nadu coast, India. Beach profile measurements were made in 10 profiling sites between Thirukadaiyur and Velankanni on monthly and seasonal basis from January 2011 to July 2012. Using beach profile data, variation in beach width, slope and volumetric changes have been calculated. Beach slope and nearshore wave parameters were used to quantify the longshore sediment transport rate. Beaches between Thirukadaiyur and Karaikkal attained predominant transport rate in northern direction whereas, the rest of the beaches are in southern direction. The seasonal action of wind and wave currents create nearshore bar during northeast (NE) monsoon and frequent berms at tidal zone during southwest (SW) monsoon. Surface sediment samples were collected in each location for quantifying the heavy mineral weight percentage during the period of pre- and post-Thane cyclone. Sediments were also studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD) to evaluate the changes and occurrence of heavy minerals in beach sands. The XRD results show that sediments in the study area have enriched heavy mineral distribution even after strong cyclonic event. It confirms the redistribution of heavy mineral deposits present in the coast. The results suggested that monsoonal action has influenced the seasonal changes in beach morphology and it does not affect the heavy mineral distribution.     

Modeling beach profile changes by typhoon impacts at Xiamen coast

For the Xiamen coast where typhoon frequently occurs, beaches are subject to severe erosion during typhoons. To investigate storm-induced beach profile changes at Xiamen coast, four inner XBeach models were applied using typhoon Dan as a case study. These numerical simulations utilized hydrodynamic and wave conditions determined from larger-scale outer and middle coupled Delft3D-FLOW and SWAN models. The models were validated against historic measurements of tidal level, storm tide, storm surge and beach profiles, thus showing the accuracy of outer and middle models to provide boundary conditions and the reliability of inner models to reflect beach profile changes during a typhoon process. The applicability of this modeling approach to Xiamen coast was verified. The results also demonstrated that an enormous amount of dune face erosion occurred at the selected beaches during the typhoon Dan process and the slopes in the vicinity of zero elevation for the chosen four beach profiles all turned out to be gentler after typhoon Dan. Nevertheless, these beaches suffered different impact degrees and processes during the typhoon influence period. Compared to swash and collision regimes, overwash and inundation regimes have the ability to alter beach profile rapidly in short time. Post-storm beach profile with and without vegetation indicated that vegetation is capable of protecting coastal beaches to some extent. By running the nested models, the simulated results can be employed in the management of the beach system and the design of beach nourishment projects at Xiamen coast.

     

The Ayres raised beach,Isle of Man

The area fringing the north coast of the Isle of Man, known as the Ayres, consists of beach deposits lying three or four metres above high-tide level (about 6 m above O.D. at Douglas). This raised beach extends from Phurt on the east coast to Sartfield on the west where it is cut out by modern coastal erosion. The fossil fauna is recent in character; Lamplugh (1903) used this as a basis for correlation with other raised beaches and platforms around the island.     

Internal structure of mixed-sand-and-gravel beach deposits revealed using ground-penetrating radar

ABSTRACT Mixed‐sand‐and‐gravel beaches are a distinctive type of coarse‐clastic beach. Ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) and photographic records of previous excavations are used to investigate the stratigraphy and internal sedimentary structure of mixed‐beach deposits at Aldeburgh in Suffolk, south‐east England. The principles of radar stratigraphy are used to describe and interpret migrated radar reflection profiles obtained from the study site. The application of radar stratigraphy allows the delineation of both bounding surfaces (radar surfaces) and the intervening beds or bed sets (radar facies). The deposits of the main backshore berm ridge consist of seaward‐dipping bounding surfaces that are gently onlapped by seaward‐dipping bed sets. Good correspondence is observed between a sequence of beach profiles, which record development of the berm ridge on the backshore, and the berm ridge's internal structure. The beach‐profile data also indicate that backshore berm ridges at Aldeburgh owe their origin to discrete depositional episodes related to storm‐wave activity. Beach‐ridge plain deposits at the study site consist of a complex, progradational sequence of foreshore, berm‐ridge, overtop and overwash deposits. Relict berm‐ridge deposits, separated by seaward‐dipping bounding surfaces, form the main depositional element beneath the beach‐ridge plain. However, the beach ridges themselves are formed predominantly of vertically stacked overtop/overwash units, which lie above the berm‐ridge deposits. Consequently, beach‐ridge development in this progradational, mixed‐beach setting must have occurred when conditions favoured overtopping and overwashing of the upper beachface. Interannual to decadal variations in wave climate, antecedent beach morphology, shoreline progradation rate and sea level are identified as the likely controlling factors in the development of such suitable conditions.     

Discrimination of particle zonation on a pebble beach

The extent to which pebble shapes are zonally sorted on a pebble beach is examined. On the basis of comprehensive point samples from a pebble beach in west Wales, and using factor analysis, a pebble shape index for each point sample is derived. It is proposed that the sum of squares (%RSS) explained by a linear trend surface of shape index values, approximates to the degree to which the second derivative of pebble shape with respect to distance downbeach, tends towards zero. If the second derivative is zero there is no zonation of sample shape values but, rather, a uniform trend. Strength of zonation on one beach is calculated for eight beach samples during 1971. A heterogeneity index (Ht) is introduced to show the degree of difference between clustered point samples on the basis of shape and size. On the basis of %RSS and Ht value, discrimination between pebble facies type on the sample beach over time can be made.     

An analysis of beach profile changes subsequent to the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project,Sri Lanka

Man-made coastal structures directly affect sediment balance and sediment dynamics on the surrounding beaches. The Colombo Harbor Expansion Project has created about 5-km-long breakwater nearly perpendicular to the beach. The present study is focused on quantitatively and qualitatively analyzing the effect of the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project on economically important beaches in and around Colombo city area. In this study, the authors measured monthly variations of beach width, beach profile and the mean grain-size of the sediments at mean sea level for complete annual monsoon cycle. Data were analyzed to establish site-specific erosion vulnerability. Monitoring results show that cumulative beach erosion has increased after the construction of the breakwater (rate = 0.7 m/year from May 2000 to April 2011 and rate = 28.2 m/year from April 2011 to June 2012). In addition, the cumulative and site-specific sand accretion and erosion patterns have a clear relationship with the monsoon seasonality. Beaches were narrower during the stormy southwestern monsoon, whereas beaches were wider during fair weather of northeast monsoon and inter-monsoon periods. In contrast, the constructed breakwater obstructs natural longshore sediment dynamics. For example, a significant amount of sediments from the Kelani-Ganga River were buried in the Colombo Harbor due to alteration of prominent longshore sediments transportation on the western coast of Sri Lanka. Therefore, this study shows enhancement of coastal erosion in the studied southern beaches due to a lack of sediment deposition.     

Effects of the Santa Cruz harbor on coastal processes of northern Monterey Bay,California

An average of 230,000 cubic meters of sand is provided to the beaches of northern Monterey Bay each year by littoral transport from upcoast and from local river input. Two jetties constructed as part of a small craft harbor interrupted the littoral flow of sand and significantly altered the area's natural coastal processes. A wide protective beach immediately formed upcoast against a formerly retreating beach cliff. Sand now filling the harbor mouth each winter has led to expensive yearly dredging as well as seasonally or permanently depleted downcoast beaches. Seacliff retreat, always a problem in the area, is caused primarily by surf attack of weaker stratigraphic units and erosion along joint sets and faults, causing collapse of the bluffs. The seasonal loss of protective beaches has led to a two- to three-fold increase in the rate of downcoast cliff retreat following harbor construction except where protective rip-rap has been emplaced by property owners.     

Morphological characteristics and medium-term evolution of the beaches between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco)

This work presents the results of a combined study on the beach morphology and the evolution at short- and medium-term of the littoral between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco). It is an interesting sector showing a great increase of human occupation and coastal structures. The monitoring program allowed for the reconstruction of the beach morphological behavior and the seasonal changes. The studied beaches presented reflective profiles recording little seasonality, with the most notable morphological changes being strictly related to storms. Surf Similarity and Surf Scaling parameters highlighted the existence of intermediate and reflective beach states, characterized by plunging breakers. Aerial photographs and a satellite image have been geo-referenced and elaborated with GIS tools to reconstruct the short- and medium-term evolution of the littoral and the sediment transport pathways. The littoral showed important erosion at short- and medium-term related to a negative sedimentary budget because of offshore transport. Sand accumulation was recorded close to the main ports, i.e., Marina Smir and Marina Kabila. These port structures constituted impermeable, fixed limits, which divided the studied area into littoral cells. Other free, transit limits were also observed.     

Longshore grain size trends in the Kakinada-Mulapeta Beach,east coast of India

Shore-normal and shore-parallel variations in grain size statistics of beach sand have been studied over a period of one year along the Kakinada-Mulapeta coast. The southern beaches of this coast have been accretionary while the northern ones erosional since 125 years. The grain size gradings, beach and nearshore processes help in identifying (i) the Groins-fishing harbour beach influenced predominantly by the tidal regime. (ii) the Mulapeta-Vakalapudi beach influenced by refracted wave regime and (iii) the Vakalapudi-fishing harbour beach affected by both wave and tidal regimes at relatively subdued levels.     

An approximation to short-term evolution and sediment transport pathways along the littoral of Cadiz Bay (SW Spain)

This work presents the results of a beach-monitoring program carried out in the Bay of Cadiz (SW Spain), which consists of urban, natural and nourished beaches. In the present study, 24 topographic profiles have been monthly monitored during the 1996–1998 period, in order to draw the morphodynamic behavior of this coast and the general characterization of short-term coastal trends. This way, total volumetric budgets have been calculated for each beach profile in order to group beaches in different erosive/accreting sectors. Studied beaches recorded both erosion and accretion: the greatest accretionary trends have been observed at Aguadulce, La Costilla and Rota beaches, with values ranging from 30 to 70 m³/m. The largest erosion episodes have been recorded in the southernmost end of Valdelagrana spit, with values over 50 m³/m, and in Rota and Vistahermosa, after nourishment works. Main erosion and accretion pathways have been related to the existence of natural and human structures, which blocked the longshore drift suggesting the existence of littoral cells.     

Morphodynamics of a mesotidal rocky beach: Palmeras beach,Gorgona Island National Natural Park,Colombia

The response of a rocky beach to different possible combinations of hydrodynamic conditions (tides, waves, oceanic currents) has been little studied. In this work, the morphodynamic response to different hydrodynamic forcing is evaluated from sedimentological and geomorphological analysis in seasonal and medium term (19 years) scale in Palmeras beach, located in the southwest of Gorgona Island National Natural Park (NNP), a mesotidal rocky island on the Colombian Pacific continental shelf. Palmeras is an important nesting area of two types of marine turtles, with no anthropogenic stress. In the last years, coastal erosion has reduced the beach width, restricting the safe areas for nesting and conservation of these species. Until now, the sinks, sources, reservoirs, rates, and paths of sediments were unknown, as well as their hydrodynamic forcing. The beach seasonal variability, from October 2010 to August 2012, was analyzed based on biweekly or monthly measurements of five beach profiles distributed every 200 m along the 1.2 km of beach length. The main paths for sediment transport were defined from the modeling of wave currents with the SMC model (Coastal Modeling System), as well as the oceanic currents, simulated for the dry and wet seasons of 2011 using the ELCOM model (Estuary and Lake COmputer Model). Extreme morphologic variations over a time span of 19 years were analyzed with the Hsu and Evans beach static equilibrium parabolic model, from one wave diffraction point which dominates the general beach plan shape. The beach lost 672 m³/m during the measuring period, and erosional processes were intensified during the wet season. The beach trends responded directly to a wave mean energy flux change, resulting in an increase of up to 14 m in the width northward and loss of sediments in the beach southward. This study showed that to obtain the integral morphodynamic behavior of a rocky beach it is necessary to combine information of hydrodynamic, sedimentology and geomorphology in different time scales.     

山东青岛灵山湾南部海滩的时空演变及其影响因素*

全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,是海滩侵蚀防护的前提;基于卫星图像资源全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,对于缺乏长期连续实测数据的海滩的侵蚀防护具有重要意义。本研究基于谷歌地球引擎合成并下载灵南海滩(灵山湾南部海滩)1984—2021年的880幅卫星图像,聚焦海滩剖面提取干湿线和水边线在剖面上的位置;结合模拟潮位分析海滩剖面形态,计算海滩坡度和平均高、低潮线等,采用多指标研究灵南海滩的时空演变;结合历史资料分析影响灵南海滩演变的主要因素,并利用海滩实测数据评估利用卫星图像提取的海滩岸线的误差。结果表明,大量卫星图像的应用提高了研究结果的时间分辨率、精度和可靠性。在1984—2021年间,灵南海滩部分岸段发生了阶段性快速侵蚀,侵蚀速率为5.2~60 m/a,总侵蚀量达30~78 m,持续时间为0.5~11年,该快速侵蚀主要是挖沙、养殖场改建和废弃等人为因素造成的,风暴潮起次要的辅助作用。除上述快速侵蚀时段外,灵南海滩普遍发生慢速侵蚀,侵蚀速率一般小于2 m/a,这是相对海平面上升和河流入海泥沙锐减等的结果。     

Factors influencing human beach choice on three South African beaches: A multivariate analysis

Knowledge of recreational use patterns, preferences and opinions of beach users can be useful in developing beaches in such a way as to ensure quality recreational experiences. This paper investigated, by means of questionnaire survey, a) the factors influencing human beach choice on three beaches with different levels of development and b) whether respondents on the different beaches considered different characteristics important on an ideal beach. By means of multiple discriminant analysis, visitors could be classified according to the beaches they were interviewed on, based solely on the different reasons given for visiting the beach as well as on the characteristics they considered important on a beach.Although factors relating to level of beach development were the most important in influencing beach choice on highly developed King's Beach and undeveloped Sardinia Bay, traditional/historical, socio-economic factors and accessibility (all unrelated to beach development) were more important on semi-developed Joorst Park, visited by people of a lower-socio-economic level. These people considered Joorst Park underdeveloped but were prevented by socio-economic restraints from visiting a beach of their choice, eg King's Beach. The highly and semi-developed beaches were visited for their facilities, social activities and accessibility. The undeveloped beach was visited for experiencing nature, peace and quiet, its few people and because dogs were allowed there. In addition, respondents' opinions were obtained on litter, additional facilities, preferred distances between groups on the beach and in the surf and whether dogs and off-road vehicles should be allowed on beaches. More basic facilities (toilets and refuse bins) were considered necessary on all beaches, especially on the semi-developed beach. Beyond a minimal level of amenities, additional comforts were undesired by users on the undeveloped beach and limited funds should rather be used to upgrade and improve beaches such as Joorst Park, that are already developed to attract people with greater demands for a wider range of facilities. However, beaches with different levels of development are necessary to cater for people who desire different recreational experiences. Limiting beach access beyond a certain number of visitors seems to be unpopular with the public.     

International viewpoint and news

The investigations were carried out in order to evaluate change of the beaches profile during the period 1993–2008 and to elucidate main trends of the coastal dynamics. Morphometric indicators (beach width, height and inclination) were measured every year during the period 1993–2008 in 70 measuring stations located along the coastline. It was determined that the dynamic shoreline of the mainland during 1993–2008 receded by 10.2 m and the dynamic shoreline of the Curonian Spit advanced into the sea by 8.3 m. The different morphometric beach indicators changed to varying extents over the period 1993–2008, but comparison of values for 1993 and 2008 showed that those changes were small. The average beach width increased by 1.2 m on the mainland coast and by 0.5 m on the Curonian Spit coast. The average beach height also increased negligibly: by 0.5 m on the mainland coast and by 0.1 m on the Curonian Spit coast. The average beach slope inclination increased by 0.012 (from 0.065 to 0.077) on the mainland coast and by 0.005 (from 0.073 to 0.078) on the Curonian Spit coast. The measurements show that, despite being the most dynamic elements in the coastal system, these beaches managed to retain their morphometric indicators almost unchanged during the period of observation.     

Spatial and temporal variations of sediment size on a mixed sand and gravel beach

Mixed sand and gravel beaches have been the subject of comparatively few studies in the UK. This paper describes the sediment distribution before, during and after a programme of beach nourishment along a section of mixed sand and gravel beach forming part of the Pevensey Bay Coastal Defences, in East Sussex, UK. The beach was recharged in September 2002, and beach profiles were measured along three cross-shore transects from August 2002 to February 2003. Sediment samples were taken along the transects between August and November 2002, and a total of 147 sediment samples were analysed, 40 before nourishment and 107 after nourishment. The majority of the sediment samples were strongly bimodal, with mean sizes varying between a minimum of 0.18 mm (2.48 ?) for the sand fraction and a maximum of 27 mm (− 4.74 ?) for the gravel. The recharge material was also bimodal but contained more fine sediment than the natural beach material, particularly on the upper beach. The recharge sediment had grain sizes and sorting similar to some of the natural material but lower bimodality parameters than any of the natural sediment. The sediment distributions after recharge contained significantly more fine sediment, particularly on the upper beach. Over time, the beach profile lowered and fine sediment appeared to be selectively transported seawards from the beachface.     

Evaluation of criteria for predicting erosion and accretion on an estuarine sand beach, Delaware Bay, Jew Jersey

Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the performance of four criteria that predict beach erosion and accretion due to wave-induced cross-shore sediment movement (Dean 1973; Sunamura and Horikawa 1974; Hattori and Kawamata 1980; Kraus et al. 1991). Each criterion defines a relation, between a wave and sediment parameter, and includes a coefficient that discriminates beach erosion and accretion events. Relations, based on small-scale laboratory and field data, were evaluated for predicting erosion or accretion at the study site. Significant wave heights at the study site, monitored near high water, ranged from 0.08 to 0.52 m with periods of 2.4 to 12.8 s. Median grain sizes of sediments on the beach foreshore, gathered at low water, ranged from 0.33 to 0.73 mm. All four criteria showed a clustering of erosion and accretion events. Relations derived from small-scale laboratory data were better predictors of erosion on the profile at the field site than those derived from field data gathered on exposed ocean environments. The planar profile and dominance of incident waves of low height and short period are similar to laboratory conditions characterized by initial planar beach slopes and monochromatic waves. Decreasing the value of the empirical coefficient to account for the differences in the magnitude of wave energy and grain size increases the performance of the criteria tested to predict erosion of the profile.     

海南岛三亚湾海滩研究*

海南岛三亚湾及其周边海滩可分为两种主要类型:一类是岩礁海岸海滩,发育于基岩和珊瑚礁岛波影区或珊瑚礁平台后侧,多为背叠式砂砾滩,滩窄、坡陡,具有数道陡坎,在岛礁背风侧常发育不同阶段的连岛坝,如白排人工岛西南端海滩、鹿回头湾大洲后侧及对岸的海滩、鹿回头湾和小东海海滩;另一类是沙坝海岸海滩,发育于向外海敞开的大沙坝的向海侧,海湾内砂质沉积物丰富,形成滩脊式或背叠式砂质滩,滩面宽坦,物质较细,如三亚湾和大东海海滩。因湾口朝向与湾内岛礁分布发育情况不同,湾内受常浪和台风强浪作用的强度与频率不同,加之现代泥沙补给情况的差异,这一类海滩的形态结构亦不尽相同。如三亚湾西侧近岬角处,波能辐聚,动力强,侵蚀作用突出,滩面呈近直线形倾斜,并形成两道陡坎;三亚湾中部,受岛礁保护,滩面宽阔,波浪消能空间充足,物质丰富,发育滩脊型海滩,滩面呈上凸形,基本稳定;三亚湾东侧,虽有岛礁掩蔽,但由于人为修建的绿地草坪带和水泥碎砖石小径等,建设高度过低, 束狭了激浪带的自由作用宽度,减小了波浪消能范围,破坏了海滩的整体结构,同时阻断了沙坝向海滩的供沙, 使滩面坡度加大,物质粗化,局部与小径相接处形成侵蚀陡坎、椰树等倾斜,呈侵蚀状态。     

Some results of coastal defences monitoring by ground laser scanning technology

A general coastal retreat affects almost all the beaches of the Apulia region (southern Italy). In particular, the coastal strip of the Gulf of Manfredonia shows an evident retreat due to human activity. To control coastal erosion, several defence interventions have been realised: breakwaters, shore parallel defences, and, above all, several types of groynes (rectilinear, hook-shaped, T-shaped) were built along the shoreline in accordance with local request. Nowadays, there are about 300 coastal defences built up to protect against human activities. A laser scanner survey of these defences, using a Leica Geosystems HDS3000, was carried out between April 2006 and September 2008 to collect data about the beach profiles and changes occurring in the defence framework. The survey work consists of 3D rendering of defences in order to make comparisons between scans of different periods. Overlap between the points cloud of the whole coastline showed that defences preserved their own profile when no human interventions took place. Moreover, throughout the length of the investigated area, not a single trend occurred in the beach profile: according to the defence framework, some stretches of coast display advancing trend, while others are stable or retreating. Therefore, this preliminary study indicated that the changes that occurred in the beach profiles and defence structures are mainly due to human interventions.     

Experimental control of beach face dynamics by watertable pumping

The dynamic sediment budget on the intertidal face of sandy surf beaches is influenced by interaction of swash/backwash flows with the beach watertable. Watertable height variations are coupled to tides and pass into the beach as a slow wave of diminishing amplitude and increasing lag. High-frequency pulses from the onshore wave train also propagate into the beach. The height at which the watertable outcrops on the beach face is affected by antecedent tide and wave history and influences balance of sand deposition and entrainment during swash and backwash. Experimental lowering of the watertable by pumping an array of wells induces sand deposition. Energy expended in pumping is less than 0.3% of the onshore flux in the wave train.