Wintertime suspended sediment simulation in the Huanghai and East China Seas

A simulation of suspended sediment movement relating to tidal and wave forcing during a winter monsoon in November 1983 in the Huanghai and East China Seas continental shelf is attempted by using the model describing the cohesive/non-cohesive sediment resuspension generated by interactions between currents and waves.model simulation showed that sediment concentration was increased by resuspension at shallow depths during the strong storm conditions due to high bottom stress interacted between currents and waves. This result is in general agreement with observations in horizontal distribution of suspended sediment distribution.At three current meter mooring positions off the southern Shandong Peninsula resuspension occurred only at a depth of 22m,nearest coastal position and at deeper parts at depths of 51 and 80m wave-current interaction effects were not significant. It has shown that the present model simulation demonstrated the capability of reproduction of suspended sediment movement under wintertime extreme event reasonably well.     

A wave-resolving model for nearshore suspended sediment transport

This paper presents a wave-resolving sediment transport model, which is capable of simulating sediment suspension in the field-scale surf zone. The surf zone hydrodynamics is modeled by the non-hydrostatic model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The turbulent flow and suspended sediment are simulated in a coupled manner. Three effects of suspended sediment on turbulent flow field are considered: (1) baroclinic forcing effect; (2) turbulence damping effect and (3) bottom boundary layer effect. Through the validation with the laboratory measurements of suspended sediment under nonbreaking skewed waves and surfzone breaking waves, we demonstrate that the model can reasonably predict wave-averaged sediment profiles. The model is then utilized to simulate a rip current field experiment (RCEX) and nearshore suspended sediment transport. The offshore sediment transport by rip currents is captured by the model. The effects of suspended sediment on self-suspension are also investigated. The turbulence damping and bottom boundary layer effects are significant on sediment suspension. The suspended sediment creates a stably stratified water column, damping fluid turbulence and reducing turbulent diffusivity. The suspension of sediment also produces a stably stratified bottom boundary layer. Thus, the drag coefficient and bottom shear stress are reduced, causing less sediment pickup from the bottom. The cross-shore suspended sediment flux is analyzed as well. The mean Eulerian suspended sediment flux is shoreward outside the surf zone, while it is seaward in the surf zone.     

Modeling wave�Ccurrent bottom boundary layers beneath shoaling and breaking waves

The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution.     

Sediment waves on the Moroccan continental rise

A nearly continuous zone of sediment waves is present on the lower continental rise off western Morocco which parallels the regional bathymetric trends. The individual sediment waves within the zone migrate upslope with time and, in general, also trend parallel to the regional bathymetric contours. These observations suggest that geostrophic contour currents are responsible for the formation of sediment waves. Physical oceanographic measurements and sea-floor photographs indicate only a very weak bottom circulation in this region. This suggests either that strong bottom currents are not essential for the formation of sediment waves or that relatively stronger bottom currents flowed along the continental margin of Morocco in the recent past. Turbidity flows may also influence the distribution of these sediment waves.     

A simple system for laser-illuminated video imaging of sedimentsuspension and bed topography

A simple underwater video system has been developed for simultaneously imaging sediment suspension and monitoring bed profiles under waves and combined wave-current flows. This consists of a diode-laser-generated light plane and a black-and-white underwater video camera. The laser light illuminates suspended material in section and also provides a bed profile at the bottom. Orthogonal laser/camera pairs are used to obtain both cross-shore and alongshore views. During deployments, the system has been augmented by acoustic backscatter devices for measurement of sediment concentration. As with all video techniques, visibility is a limiting factor, but where turbidity is low to moderate, the results are encouraging. Results on cross-shore and alongshore bed elevation variations and suspension event stales obtained with the video/laser system are presented for two experiments: one at the National Research Council Wave Research Flume in Ottawa, Canada, and the other in the field at Queensland Beach, N.S., Canada,     

Frequency of sediment movement on the Washington continental shelf: A note

Several independent sets of field data have been analyzed in order to estimate the frequency of sediment movement on the continental shelf off Washington over an annual period and to identify the major components of the bottom velocity field causing this motion. Sediment motions resulting from: (1) bottom currents caused by surface wind stress and tides, and (2) wave-induced oscillatory bottom currents have been investigated. Analysis of a 260-day current record from 3 m off the seabed at 80 m depth on the continental shelf and a 205-day open-ocean wave record collected on Cobb Seamount 465 km west of the Washington coast suggest that the threshold of sediment motion was exceeded for approximately 22 days per year as a result of mean currents (20 min time averaged) and approximately 53 days per year from wave-induced oscillatory currents. Substantial variations can be expected from year to year, so these values represent order of magnitude estimates.     

台风作用下长江口北槽挟沙能力研究

台风作用下水体的挟沙能力研究对深入认识台风暴潮作用下泥沙运动规律、滩槽演变特征以及提升数学模型和物理模型技术等方面具有重要意义。文中从台风波能对泥沙的悬浮作用入手,建立了台风浪作用下的挟沙能力公式;依据能量叠加原理,完善了传统的河口海岸挟沙能力公式（窦国仁挟沙能力公式）,使公式能够同时概括潮流、波浪和台风浪作用下的泥沙运动特征,并应用近年来长江口北槽实测的台风期近底水沙资料对公式进行了率定验证,在此基础上分析了台风期北槽近底含沙量变化特征。     

粉砂质海岸大风天泥沙运动研究

根据黄河三角洲五号桩海域6级大风前后现场悬沙、沉积物和实测水流资料,研究了淤泥质粉砂海岸大风过程后泥沙分布特征和运动规律。发现大风天气海底泥沙对波浪作用反应灵敏,悬沙和底沙分布规律与波浪作用吻合,为波浪作用下海底泥沙运动的理论研究以及海区工程开发提供了科学依据。     

厦门湾口外近岸陆架区海底沙波发育特征

利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响.结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10～60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°～1°;平面上沙波区...     

Field Observation and Analysis of Wave-Current-Sediment Movement in Caofeidian Sea Area in the Bohai Bay, China

In order to study the mechanism of flow-sediment movement, it is essential to obtain measured data of water hydrodynamic and sediment concentration process with high spatial and temporal resolution in the bottom boundary layer (BBL). Field observations were carried out in the northwest Caofeidian sea area in the Bohai Bay. Near 2 m isobath (under the lowest tidal level), a tripod system was installed with AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current), ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers), OBS-3A (Optical Backscatter Point Sensor), ADV (Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters), etc. The accurate measurement of the bottom boundary layer during a single tidal period was carried out, together with a long-term sediment concentration measurement under different hydrological conditions. All the measured data were used to analyze the characteristics of wave-current-sediment movement and the BBL. Analysis was performed on flow structure, shear stress, roughness, eddy viscosity and other parameters of the BBL. Two major findings were made. Firstly, from the measured data, the three-layer distribution model of the velocity profiles and eddy viscosities in the wave-current BBL are proposed in the observed sea area; secondly, the sediment movement is related closely to wind-waves in the muddy coast area where sediment is clayey silt: 1) The observed suspended sediment concentration under light wind conditions is very low, with the peak value generally smaller than 0.1 kg/m3 and the average value being 0.03 kg/m3; 2) The sediment concentration increases continuously under the gales over 6-7 in Beaufort scale, under a sustained wind action. The measured peak sediment concentration at 0.4 m above the seabed is 0.15-0.32 kg/m3, and the average sediment concentration during wind-wave action is 0.08-0.18 kg/m3, which is about 3-6 times the value under light wind conditions. The critical wave height signaling remarkable changes of sediment concentration is 0.5 m. The results show that the suspended load sediment concentration is mainly influenced by wave-induced sediment suspension.     

长江河口波-流共同作用下的全沙数值模拟

针对长江河口地形、水文、泥沙运动等复杂的特点,建立了波-流共同作用下的二维全沙及河床演变模型.在合理计算研究区域流场等的基础上,利用切应力概念确定悬沙扩散方程中的源函数;通过系列数值试验和实测资料的统计分析,在经典的泥沙临界起动速度中引入反映河床底质结构及固结程度的局地系数;选用由流速、盐度、含沙量浓度确定的泥沙颗粒絮凝沉降速度,从而提高长江口悬沙场数值模拟精度.在底沙输运计算中,提出一种较为合理确定有关参数的方法.通过洪、枯季大、中、小潮水文、泥沙资料和典型台风引起航槽冲淤变化的实测资料验证,表明该文提出的模型能较合理地反映长江河口流场、泥沙场及地形的演变.     

Floc size variability under strong turbulence: Observations and artificial neural network modeling

The flocculation of cohesive sediment in the presence of waves is investigated using high-resolution field observations and a newly-developed flocculation model based on artificial neural networks. Vertical profiles of suspended sediment concentration and turbulent intensity are estimated using measurements of current profile and acoustic backscatter. The vertical distribution of floc size is estimated using an artificial neural network (ANN) that is trained and validated using floc size measurements at one vertical level. Data analysis suggests a linear correlation between suspended sediment concentration and turbulence intensity. Observations and numerical simulations show that floc size is inversely related to sediment concentration, turbulence intensity and water temperature. The numerical results indicate that floc growth is supported by low concentration and low turbulence. In the vertical direction, mean size of flocs decreases toward the bottom, suggesting floc breakage due to increasing turbulence intensity toward the bed. A significant decrease in turbulent shear could occur within the bottom few-cm, related to increased damping of turbulence by sediment induced density stratification. The results of the numerical simulations presented here are consistent with the concept of a cohesive sediment particle undergoing aggregation-fragmentation processes, and suggest that the ANN can be a precise tool to study flocculation processes.     

Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport

A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a_c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.     

Field observation and analysis of wave-current-sediment movement in Caofeidian Sea area in the Bohai Bay,China

In order to study the mechanism of flow-sediment movement, it is essential to obtain measured data of water hydrodynamic and sediment concentration process with high spatial and temporal resolution in the bottom boundary layer （BBL）. Field observations were carried out in the northwest Caofeidian sea area in the Bohai Bay. Near 2 m isobath （under the lowest tidal level）, a tripod system was installed with AWAC （Acoustic Wave And Current）, ADCP （Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers）, OBS-3A （Optical Backscatter Point Sensor）, ADV （Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters）, etc. The accurate measurement of the bottom boundary layer during a single tidal period was carried out, together with a long-term sediment concentration measurement under different hydrological conditions. All the measured data were used to analyze the characteristics of wave-current-sediment movement and the BBL. Analysis was performed on flow structure, shear stress, roughness, eddy viscosity and other parameters of the BBL. Two major findings were made. Firstly, from the measured data, the three-layer distribution model of the velocity profiles and eddy viscosities in the wave-current BBL are proposed in the observed sea area; secondly, the sediment movement is related closely to wind-waves in the muddy coast area where sediment is clayey silt： 1） The observed suspended sediment concentration under light wind conditions is very low, with the peak value generally smaller than 0.1 kg/m^3 and the average value being 0.03 kg/m^3; 2） The sediment concentration increases continuously under the gales over 6-7 in Beaufort scale, under a sustained wind action. The measured peak sediment concentration at 0.4 m above the seabed is 0.15-0.32 kg/m^3, and the average sediment concentration during wind-wave action is 0.08-0.18 kg/m^3, which is about 3-6 times the value under light wind conditions. The critical wave height signaling remarkable changes of sediment concentration is 0.5 m. The results show that the suspended load sediment concentration is mainly influenced by wave-induced sediment suspension.     

Experimental study on bed-load sediment transport under irregular wave and current combined flow

Using an irregularly oscillating tray and flume,a series of experiments are completed to evaluate bed-load sediment transport rate under irregular wave-current coexistent fild.Testing conditions include three interaction angles 0°,45°,90° and two kinds of median sizes (0.38 and 1.10 mm).The results of transport rate show that the net sediment transport rate can be expressed approximately as the function of the maximum bottom shear stress of waves,mean shear stress of current and the grain size.     

Sediment movement under unidirectional flows: an assessment of empirical threshold curves

A selection of threshold data sets from previous investigations is used to re-examine, selectively, some of the empirical curves that are most commonly used for the prediction of sediment threshold. Simple analytical formulae are derived describing single line curves for mean threshold values and envelopes for the initial movement of discrete particles and the commencement of mass sediment transport phases of the critical condition.The complexity of factors governing the prevailing conditions at threshold, together with the randomness of events, limits deterministic solutions; however, the curves provide an approach that can be used readily in practical applications. In contrast, the envelope presentation is more of a stochastic approach to the definition of threshold. It recognises that there is no definitive threshold condition under which a particular particle size can be displaced, but rather that a range of threshold values exist.The empirical threshold relationships were derived on the basis of a relatively large amount of data. However, the sources utilised have interpreted the ‘critical condition’ in various ways, implying that the formulae must be treated with caution in applications.     

浅水不规则波浪中油轮运动研究

本文对一般油轮在浅水不规则波浪中六自由度运动进行了试验分析,并对其碰底情况做了研究。试验时对有流情况下不同波高、不同装载的条件进行了分析比较。模型的六自由度运动是用非接触式六自由度运动测量与分析方法求得。该方法应用位置测量仪（ＰＳＤ）对安置在模型上的红外线发光源（ＬＥＤ）进行测量,然后所编制的软件计算出模型的六个自由度运动情况。     

Seismic features and origin of sediment waves in the Qiongdongnan Basin, northern South China Sea

Sediment waves have been documented around the world for several decades, and their origins are still debated because of their various characteristics in different settings. Based on numerous high-resolution seismic profiles and two boreholes, sediment waves are identified in deepwater areas of the eastern Qiongdongnan Basin, and their distribution and seismic features are illustrated. Combined with the bathymetry, the potential origins of these sediment waves are discussed. Drilling in the central canyon revealed that the channel infill comprises some along-slope fine-grained turbidites, which are good reservoir for gas plays. The sediment waves are distributed on the banks of the central canyon and their seismic features indicate that most of them are caused by turbidity current overflows along the canyon. Although previous researches on these sediment waves suggested that they were of westward-flowing contourite origin, detailed topographic map derived from the seafloor reflector on seismic data shows that there is a N–S trending ridge at the east part of sediment wave zones, which could block and divert the bottom current. According to the geometry of sediment waves, the flow thicknesses across the entire wave field are calculated as 280–560 m, and the current velocity falls in the range of 30–130 cm/s, which would favor a fine-grained composition and could be a good reservoir because of the better sorting of turbidites than contourites or other gravity flow deposits.     

磨刀门拦门沙区域枯季波流共同作用近底切应力和泥沙运动研究

On the basis of the measurement data pertaining to waves, current, and sediment in February 2012 in the mouth bar of the Modaomen Estuary, the Soulsby formulae with an iterative method are applied to calculating bottom shear stresses （BSS） and their effect on a sediment resuspension. Swell induced BSS have been found to be the most important part of the BSS. In this study, the correlation coefficient between a wavecurrent shear stress and SSC is 0.86, and that between current shear stresses and SSC is only 0.40. The peaks of the SSC are consistent with the height and the BSS of the swell. The swell is the main mechanism for the sediment re-suspension, and the tidal current effect on sediment re-suspension is small. The peaks of the SSC are centered on the high tidal level, and the flood tide enhances the wave shear stresses and the SSC near the bottom. The critical shear stress for sediment re-suspension at the observation station is between 0.20 and 0.30 N/m2. Tidal currents are too weak to stir up the bottom sediment into the flow, but a WCI （wave-current interaction） is strong enough to re-suspend the coarse sediment.     

基于潮间带现场数据的底部切应力算法对比

底部切应力作为水动力和泥沙输移模型中的关键参数,对底床泥沙起动、侵蚀淤积速率的研究十分重要.目前基于现场实测流速数据计算底部切应力的理论方法有6种:LP-mean法、LP-max法、TKE法、TKE W法、RS法和ID法,这些方法都有其特定的适用条件.河口海岸浅水区域水流和波浪作用复杂,遴选合适的方法计算底部切应力非常...