Toxicity testing of oil slick dispersants in Hong Kong

In Hong Kong, the toxicity of oil spill dispersants was assessed in a preliminary screening test, based upon TD₅₀ values in samples of ten fish. Later, an improved test was introduced, based upon new procedures developed in the United Kingdom and modified to suit conditions in Hong Kong. Products approved elsewhere were usually, but not always, approved in Hong Kong. Further work is needed to relate the test results to oil-spill damage in local waters.     

New procedures for the toxicity testing of oil slick dispersants in the United Kingdom

Under the Dumping at Sea Act 1974 the use of oil slick dispersants requres a licence from the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food in England and Wales. These licences are issued or refused on the basis of tests to assess the toxicity of the dispersant when used at sea or on beaches. This paper describes the rationale behind the development of the two toxicity tests used, together with the test methods adopted and the results of the tests.     

Computer simulation of nearshore bar formation

A computer simulation model, developed from a conceptual model of sediment transport patterns associated with nearshore bars, is presented. The model simulates wave shoaling, breaking and reformation along a profile normal to the shore from deep water to the beach and determines rates and directions of sediment transport under wave orbital currents and rip cell circulation. The model successfully generates a barred profile from an initial planar profile and under most conditions achieves a state of dynamic equilibrium with sediment circulating across the bars. Input values for wave height, wave period, offshore slope and tidal range were varied in turn in order to determine their individual effect on the shape of the equilibrium profile formed. Breaker type—spilling or plunging—is incorporated in the model and also appears to be a significant factor in determining the shape of the equilibrium profile.     

Wave-tide interaction modulates nearshore wave height

Ocean Dynamics - The combined hazard of large waves occurring at an extreme high water could increase the risk of coastal flooding. Wave-tide interaction processes are known to modulate the wave...     

Field observations of nearshore bar formation

The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Modelling environmentally friendly fairways using Lagrangian trajectories: a case study for the Gulf of Finland,the Baltic Sea

We address possibilities of minimising environmental risks using statistical features of current-driven propagation of adverse impacts to the coast. The recently introduced method for finding the optimum locations of potentially dangerous activities (Soomere et al. in Proc Estonian Acad Sci 59:156–165, 2010) is expanded towards accounting for the spatial distributions of probabilities and times for reaching the coast for passively advecting particles released in different sea areas. These distributions are calculated using large sets of Lagrangian trajectories found from Eulerian velocity fields provided by the Rossby Centre Ocean Model with a horizontal resolution of 2 nautical miles for 1987–1991. The test area is the Gulf of Finland in the northeastern Baltic Sea. The potential gain using the optimum fairways from the Baltic Proper to the eastern part of the gulf is an up to 44% decrease in the probability of coastal pollution and a similar increase in the average time for reaching the coast. The optimum fairways are mostly located to the north of the gulf axis (by 2–8 km on average) and meander substantially in some sections. The robustness of this approach is quantified as the typical root mean square deviation (6–16 km) between the optimum fairways specified from different criteria. Drastic variations in the width of the ‘corridors’ for almost optimal fairways (2–30 km for the average width of 15 km) signifies that the sensitivity of the results with respect to small changes in the environmental criteria largely varies in different parts of the gulf.     

Stream function finite elements for nearshore current

This paper presents a finite element method for the analysis of nearshore current, which is mainly induced by surface waves. The analysis is divided into two parts, i.e., the analysis of wave and the analysis of currents. The basic equations are conservation of wave number, wave energy, momentum and continuity. The first two are for wave analysis and the last two for the current analysis. The wave angle is determined from the conservation law of wave number. Using the resulting wave angle and the conservation of wave energy, the distribution of wave height is derived. The radiation stress is derived from the wave angle and height. The nearshore current flow is obtained from the conservations of momentum and continuity including the radiation stress. All the numerical procedures are based on the finite element method. For the analysis of the wave angle and wave height, the incremental iteration method and logarithmic function formulation are employed. For the analysis of the current flow, the stream function formulation is used. From the numerical computations, it is seen that the finite element method presented in this paper is very valuable in practical applications. The method is applied to the analysis of the nearshore current flow of Twan Bay in Japan.     

Neural-network predictability experiments for nearshore sandbar migration

Cross-shore migratory behavior of nearshore sandbars is commonly studied with nearshore bathymetric-evolution models that represent underlying processes of hydrodynamics and sediment transport. These models, however, struggle to reproduce natural cross-shore sandbar behavior on timescales of a few days to weeks and have uncertain skill on longer scales of months to years. One particular concern for the use of models on prediction timescales that far exceed the timescale of the modeled processes is the exponential accumulation of errors in the nonlinear model equations. The relation between cross-shore sandbar migration, sandbar location and wave height has previously been demonstrated to be weakly nonlinear on timescales of several days, but it is unknown how this nonlinearity affects the predictability of long-term (months to years) cross-shore sandbar behavior. Here we study the role of nonlinearity in the predictability of sandbar behavior on timescales of a few days to several months with data-driven neural network models. Our analyses are based on over 5600 daily-observed cross-shore sandbar locations and daily-averaged wave forcings from the Gold Coast, Australia, and Hasaki, Japan. We find that neural network models are able to hindcast many aspects of cross-shore sandbar behavior, such as rapid offshore migration during storms, slower onshore return during quiet periods, seasonal cycles and annual to interannual offshore-directed trends. Although the relation between sandbar migration, sandbar location and wave height is nonlinear, sandbar behavior can be hindcasted accurately over the entire lifespan of the sandbars at the Gold Coast. Contrastingly, it is difficult to hindcast the long-term offshore-directed trends in sandbar behavior at Hasaki because of exponential accumulation of errors over time. Our results further reveal that during periods with low-wave conditions it becomes increasingly difficult to predict sandbar locations, while during high waves predictions become increasingly accurate.     

Predictive uncertainty of a nearshore bed evolution model

Predictions of nearshore depth evolution using process-based numerical simulation models contain inherent uncertainties owing to model structural deficiencies, measurement errors, and parameter uncertainty. This paper quantifies the parameter-induced predictive uncertainty of the cross-shore depth evolution model Unibest-TC by applying the Bayesian Generalised Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation methodology to modelling depth evolution at Egmond aan Zee (Netherlands). This methodology works with multiple sets of parameter values sampled uniformly in feasible parameter space and assigns a likelihood value to each parameter set. Acceptable simulations (i.e., based on parameter sets with a nonzero likelihood) were found for a wide range of parameter values owing to parameter interdependence and insensitivity. The 95% uncertainty prediction interval of bed levels after the 33 days prediction period was largest (0.5–1 m) near the sandbar crests that characterize the Egmond depth profile, reducing to near-zero values in the sandbar troughs and the offshore area. The prediction interval built up during storms (when sediment transport rates are largest) and remained the same or even reduced slightly during less-energetic conditions. The prediction uncertainty ranges bracket the observations near the inner-bar crest, its seaward flank, and at the seaward flank of the outer bar, suggesting that elsewhere model structural errors (and, potentially, measurement errors) dominate over parameter errors. The interdependence and the non-Gaussian marginal posterior distribution functions of the free model parameters cast doubt on the ability of commonly applied multivariate normal distribution functions to estimate parameter uncertainty.     

Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand: Observations of nearshore sediment segregation and oceanic storms

Nearshore regions act as an interface between the terrestrial environment and deeper waters. As such, they play important roles in the dispersal of fluvial sediment and the transport of sand to and from the shoreline. This study focused on the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand, and the processes controlling the dispersal of sediment from the main source, the Waipaoa River. Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in water shallower than 15 m were observed from April through mid-September 2006. This deployment afforded observations during 3-4 periods of elevated river discharge and 5 dry storms.Similar wind, river discharge, wave, current, and turbidity patterns were characterized during three of the wet storms. At the beginning of each event, winds blew shoreward, increasing wave heights to 2-3 m within Poverty Bay. As the cyclonic storms moved through the system the winds reversed direction and became seaward, reducing the local wave height and orbital velocity while river discharge remained elevated. At these times, high river discharge and relatively small waves enabled fluvially derived suspended sediment to deposit in shallow water. Altimetry measurements indicated that at least 7 cm was deposited at a 15 m deep site during a single discharge event. Turbidity and seabed observations showed this deposition to be removed, however, as large swell waves from the Southern Ocean triggered resuspension of the material within three weeks of deposition. Consequently, two periods of dispersal were associated with each discharge pulse, one coinciding with fluvial delivery, and a second driven by wave resuspension a few weeks later. These observations of nearfield sediment deposition contradict current hypotheses of very limited sediment deposition in shallow water offshore of small mountainous rivers when floods and high-energy, large wave and fast current, oceanic conditions coincide.Consistently shoreward near-bed currents, observed along the 10 m isobath of Poverty Bay, were attributed to a combination of estuarine circulation, Stokes drift, and wind driven upwelling. Velocities measured at the 15 m isobath, however, were directed more alongshore and diverged from those at the 10 m isobath. The divergence in the currents observed at the 10 and 15 m locations seemed to facilitate segregation of coarse and fine sediment, with sand transported near-bed toward the beach, while suspended silts and clays were exported to deeper water.     

Rates of erosion of till in the nearshore zone

Measurements of vertical erosion of till in water depths ranging from 1.1 m to 5 m have been obtained using a modified micro-erosion meter. Measurements in this environment are hindered by poor underwater visibility and losses due to high erosion rates and ice action. There is considerable spatial and temporal variability in the erosion rates measured but average values show a general increase from 11 mm y^?1 in 6 m of water to about 35 mm y^?1 in 2.3 m of water and even higher rates closer to shore. The measured values in shallow water are in good agreement with long-term rates extrapolated from shoreline recession. It is suggested that erosion occurs through abrasion and fluid stressing, and that these mechanisms are aided by softening of the upper surface of the till, possibly through cyclic ‘fatigue failure’.     

The nearshore circulation off Long Island,August 1978

The subinertial circulation within 2 to 12 km of the Long Island coast is described from a set of observations of the velocity and density fields during August 1978. The flow was characteristically to the southwest, increasing offshore and decreasing with depth. This southwest flow was driven by an externally imposed shoreward rising sea level which was modified at the coast by local wind-driven divergences and convergences. Upwelling and downwelling circulations maintained isopycnal tilts which in turn geostrophically sheared the flow. Nearly complete compensation was observed during steady periods, reducing the near-bottom flow to within ∼80% of its barotropic magnitude. This decreased the effectiveness of bottom stress on the subinertial flow. Even with fairly uniform alongshore bathymetry, the flow was substantially not two-dimensional, because of bathymetric divergences, bottom slope interaction, and bottom stress variations. These effects, in addition to the greater responsiveness of the shallower water columns, tend to define a nearshore regime partially uncoupled from a midshelf regime. The boundary in this case was often observed between 25- and 30-m contours (4 to 8 km offshore).     

Evaluation of nearshore wave models in steep reef environments

To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a quantitative evaluation of nearshore numerical wave models in reef environments, we review and compare three commonly used models with detailed laboratory observations. These models are the following: (1) SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) (Zijlema et al. 2011), a phase-resolving nonlinear shallow-water wave model with added nonhydrostatic terms; (2) SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) (Booij et al. 1999), a phase-averaged spectral wave model; and (3) XBeach (Roelvink et al. 2009), a coupled phase-averaged spectral wave model (applied to modeling sea-swell waves) and a nonlinear shallow-water model (applied to modeling infragravity waves). A quantitative assessment was made of each model’s ability to predict sea-swell (SS) wave height, infragravity (IG) wave height, wave spectra, and wave setup ( \( \overline{\eta} \) ) at five locations across the laboratory fringing reef profile of Demirbilek et al. (2007). Simulations were performed with the “recommended” empirical coefficients as documented for each model, and then the key wave-breaking parameter for each model (α in SWASH and γ in both SWAN and XBeach) was optimized to most accurately reproduce the observations. SWASH, SWAN, and XBeach were found to be capable of predicting SS wave height variations across the steep fringing reef profile with reasonable accuracy using the default coefficients. Nevertheless, tuning of the key wave-breaking parameter improved the accuracy of each model’s predictions. SWASH and XBeach were also able to predict IG wave height and spectral transformation. Although SWAN was capable of modeling the SS wave height, in its current form, it was not capable of modeling the spectral transformation into lower frequencies, as evident in the underprediction of the low-frequency waves.     

Trace metal fluxes to nearshore Long Island Sound sediments

Sediments are very important as trace metal ‘sinks’ in coastal areas. In this paper we present data on the concentrations and calculated fluxes of the trace metals, Fe, Mn, Cu, Pb, Zn, Cd and Ag at nearshore sites in Long Island Sound. In both areas a percentage of the metal accumulation can be ascribed to local human activities with the highest anthropogenic metal fluxes occurring closest to their source.     

Effects of beach slope breaks on nearshore groundwater dynamics

Interactions between fresh groundwater and seawater affect significantly the nearshore pore water flow, which in turn influences the fate of nutrients and contaminants in coastal aquifers prior to discharge to the marine environment. Field investigations and numerical simulations were carried out to examine the groundwater dynamics in the intertidal zone of a carbonate sandy aquifer on the tropical island of Rarotonga, Cook Islands. The study site was featured by distinct cross‐shore slope breaks on the beach surface. Measured pore water salinities revealed different distributions under the influences of different beach profiles, inland heads, and tidal oscillations. Fresh groundwater was found to discharge around a beach slope break located in the middle area of the intertidal zone. The results indicate a strong interplay between the slope break beach morphology and tidal force in controlling the nearshore groundwater flow and solute transport. The fresh groundwater discharge location was largely determined by the beach morphology in combination with the tidal force. The nearshore groundwater flow can be very sensitive to beach slope breaks, which induce local circulation and flow instabilities. As slope breaks are a common feature of beaches around the world, these results have important, general implications for future studies of nutrients transport and transformations in nearshore aquifers and associated fluxes via submarine groundwater discharge.     

Estimating particulate dispersiveness and accumulation at nearshore ocean dumpsites

The characteristics controlling the dispersion and accumulation of ocean-dumped sewage sludge are analysed for eight sites in the United Kingdom, Europe, and the United States. Based on the assumption that the sludge consists of a rain of fine materials descending on a sandy substrate, annual dispersiveness from both the local dumpsite and the dumpsite region is calculated as a fraction of sludge solids dumped during a given year. Using actual dumping amounts, indices of local and regional sludge accumulation are then calculated. The local index ranges from less than 1 for slightly impacted sites to 35 for the most severely impacted location. The regional index is less than 1 in all but one case. The index appears to be useful as a predictive tool for assessing impact from a given dumping scenario.     

Phytoplankton community composition in nearshore coastal waters of Louisiana

Phytoplankton community compositions within near-shore coastal and estuarine waters of Louisiana were characterized by group diversity, evenness, relative abundance and biovolume. Sixty-six taxa were identified in addition to eight potentially harmful algal genera including Gymnodinium sp. Phytoplankton group diversity was lowest at Vermillion Bay in February 2008, but otherwise ranged between 2.16 and 3.40. Phytoplankton evenness was also lowest at Vermillion Bay in February 2008, but otherwise ranged between 0.54 and 0.77. Dissolved oxygen increased with increased biovolume (R2 = 0.85, p < 0.001) and biovolume decreased with increased light attenuation (R2 = 0.34, p = 0.007), which supported the importance of light in regulating oxygen dynamics. Diatoms were dominant in relative abundance and biovolume at almost all stations and all cruises. Brunt-V?is?l? frequency was used as a measure of water column stratification and was negatively correlated (p = 0.02) to diatom relative percent total abundance.