Determination and control of longshore sediment transport: A case study

The fishery harbor of Karaburun coastal village is located at the south west coast of the Black Sea. The significant waves coming from north eastern direction cause considerable rate of sediment transport along 4 km sandy beach towards the fishery harbor in the region. The resulting sediment deposition near and inside the harbor entrance prevents the boat traffic and cause a vital problem for the harbor operations. In order to determine the level and reasons of the sediment transport, the long-term observations of shoreline changes, the long-term statistical analysis of wind and wave characteristics in the region, and sediment properties have been performed. The data obtained from observations, measurements and analysis were discussed. The long-term statistics of deep water significant wave heights for each direction was discussed by comparing the results obtained from different data sources and methods. For shoreline evolution, the numerical study using one-line model was applied to describe the shoreline changes with respect to probable wave conditions. Initial shoreline was obtained from the digitized image in 1996 since there was no previous shoreline measurement of the site. The results were compared using the techniques of remote sensing obtained from sequent images using IKONOS and IRS1C/D satellites.     

Nitrogen cycling in the southern North Sea: consequences for total nitrogen transport

Nitrate and ammonium uptake rates were measured during a series of cruises in the well-mixed region of the southern North Sea from February to September. Water column-integrated uptake rates ranged between 0.01 and 8.7 mmol N m⁻² d⁻¹ and 0.01 and 12.2 mmol N m⁻² d⁻¹ for nitrate and ammonium, respectively, with ammonium uptake dominating after the phytoplankton spring bloom in May. A moored buoy continuously measuring nitrate and chlorophyll a and seabed current meters were also deployed in the central southern North Sea in the region of the East Anglian plume—a permanent physical feature which transports nutrients towards continental Europe. This enabled the flux of water and hence of nutrients across the southern North Sea to be determined and an assessment of the contribution of freshwater nutrients to the flux to be made. A simple box model is developed to relate the phytoplankton uptake of nitrate and ammonium to the transport of nitrate, ammonium and particulate organic matter (POM) across the southern North Sea. This showed the importance of the plume region of the North Sea in the processing of nitrogen, with nitrate dominating total nitrogen transport prior to the spring bloom (10 340×10³ kg N inflow to the plume in March) and transport of nitrogen as ammonium, nitrate and POM in approximately equivalent amounts during summer (2560, 2960 and 2151×10³ kg N inflow to the plume, respectively, in July). The box model also demonstrates more generally the need to assess nitrogen transport as nitrate, ammonium and POM if an improved understanding of the impact of nutrient input in shelf seas is to be achieved.     

Combined tidal velocity and duration asymmetries as a determinant of water transport and residual flow in Paranaguá Bay estuary

Net transports of water, salt and suspended particulate matter (SPM) for a cross-section in front of the Paranaguá Harbour (Paranaguá Bay, Brazil) are presented for eight distinct tidal cycles. Data include measurements over single spring and neap tidal cycles, during both wet and dry seasons. The main drive forces of circulation and SPM dynamics are identified. Advective transport dominated under moderate to high vertical salinity stratification and weak currents, while mixing processes dominated under well-mixed conditions generated by high currents and low freshwater input. Under partially mixed conditions, both advective and mixing processes were important. The tide-induced residual circulation dictated the magnitude and direction of residual currents and net transports of water and salt, but not of SPM transport. The SPM dynamics was intrinsically related to cyclical processes of erosion, resuspension and deposition driven by tidal currents. The turbulent mixing intensity conditioned the vertical mixing of SPM. Resuspension and vertical mixing were conspicuous in spring cycles, while the horizontal advection preponderated in the neaps. Lags between maximum currents and SPM peak concentrations occurred, with more pronounced hysteresis during ebb periods.     

Shoreline accretion and sand transport at groynes inside the Port of Richards Bay

The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m³/year and 4 600 m³/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne.