内波对风浪中短波波面斜率分布的影响

在小风速条件下,分层水中,水下运动物体所产生的内波,通过改变表面流场,使得风浪中的短波波面斜率分布发生了改变.由此,可以通过观察表面风浪中短波波面斜率分布的变化,识别出水下运动物体的移动轨迹     

内波对风浪中短波波面斜率分布的影响

在小风速条件下,分层水中,水下运动物体所产生的内波,通过改变表面流场,使得风浪中的短波波面斜率分布发生了改变。由此,可以通过观察表面风浪中短波波面斜率分布的变化,识别出水下运动物体的移动轨迹     

寒潮影响下江苏沿海风浪场数值模拟研究

基于第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型SWAN,建立自西北太平洋嵌套至东中国海、江苏沿海的三重嵌套模型,对2010年12月12日至15日江苏沿海寒潮大风引起的风浪过程进行了数值模拟研究。利用西北太平洋和江苏沿海实测数据对模型进行了验证,结果表明SWAN嵌套模型能较好地模拟江苏沿海寒潮风浪场的时空分布。通过响水站实测数据对江苏沿海底摩擦系数进行了率定,研究表明选取Collins拖曳理论中摩擦因数C_f=0.001时,有效波高模拟误差相对较小。寒潮风浪场的特征分析表明,有效波高分布与风场分布基本一致,寒潮风浪在江苏沿海北部影响较为显著,辐射沙洲附近由于其特殊地形影响相对较小。     

波浪作用下沙坝不稳定性实验研究

对波群、规则波和不规则波作用下沙质海岸上沙坝运动进行了实验研究。研究沙坝产生的机理和不稳定性,以及不同波浪下所产生的海岸平衡剖面形状。实验中发现,波浪作用下沙坝处于向岸和离岸运动的不稳定状态,其原因可由地形不稳定性分析。探讨了波群调制系数对沙坝运动的影响,讨论了不同波况对海岸剖面形态的影响。     

动力定位船舶二阶低频慢漂力模型试验研究

对一艘动力定位船舶二阶低频慢漂力进行了模型试验,并将试验得到的纵向慢漂力谱、横向慢漂力谱与势流理论方法得到的理论值进行比较,结果表明,该模型试验方法与理论计算较为吻合。可为动力定位系统的设计和应用提供参考。     

Mean drift forces on an articulated column oscillating in a wave tank

An analytical solution is presented for calculating the regular wave induced respones of an articulated column in a wave tank. Extension of the procedure leads to calculation of second order mean drift forces and moments. Hydrodynamic interaction between a cylindrical column and the parallel walls of the tank is shown theoretically to be highly significant and experimental data are presented to corroborate this finding.     

Mean drift forces on arrays of axisymmetric structures in a wave tank

An approximate method is presented for calculating drift forces on arrays of vertically axisymmetric bodies in a wave tank. It is assumed that the wave scattering properties of an isolated element and of the array in the open sea are known. The procedure described allows the open-sea results to be post-processed to give good estimates of drift forces when a structural array is placed in a wave tank. For the particular case of an array of vertical circular cylinders extending throughout the depth, the method is compared with accurate results from the full linear problem for scattering by the array both when the array is in the tank and when it is in the open sea. The results show how the mean forces on the array when in the tank may differ considerably from those experienced in the open sea.     

An experimental study of the surface drift currents in a wave flume

The Lagrangian surface drift current induced by surface gravity waves in a wave flume has been investigated experimentally by the particle tracking method. It was observed that in most regions of the flume, the time-mean surface drift current was in the opposite direction to that of the wave propagation. The secondary current in the form of a pair of longitudinal vortices caused by the lateral boundaries was analyzed. It is suggested that the convection of the vorticity generated by the wave-absorber and the lateral boundaries is an important factor in the determination of the time-mean drift in a wave flume.     

Nonlinear wave effect on the slow drift motion of a floating body

The slow drift motion of a floating body in a two-dimensional wave field has been investigated using a time-domain, fully nonlinear numerical model with non-reflective open boundaries. Preliminary computations were conducted for incident bichromatic waves, in which wave theories with different orders were applied in generating the waves required. The results show that the use of low-order theories generates undesirable free waves, and that fourth-order terms contribute markedly to low-frequency input. The motion of a rectangular floating body in response to nonlinear bichromatic waves was computed. The numerical results for small-amplitude incident waves agree reasonably well with the second-order approximation for both the steady and difference-frequency (Δσ) components in the body's motion. For relatively large waves, however, the 2Δσ component becomes predominant compared with the Δσ component. The motion of the body in irregular waves with different wave parameters has also been presented in order to discuss the validity range of a second-order approximation.     

On the effects of wave drift on the dispersion of floating pollutants

The movement of floating pollutants such as oil slicks on the surface of the sea is due to a number different factors, among which wave drift is certainly significant.In principle, it has been known since Stokes' time that a floating particle is subject to the movement caused by the orbital motion of water particles and that an average drift velocity results because the trajectories are not closed. In the past, however, this effect was often either disregarded or simply included with the surface wind induced current. In recent times the difference between the two effects has been conceptually clarified, so that the average wave drift in random one-dimensional seas has been the object of research and the results are now included in most handbooks and models for oil slick forecasting.Due to the chaotic nature of the wave field, however, the drift also causes floating substances to disperse, and this phenomenon is a much more neglected area of research. Recent work by Bovolin et al. [IAHR Congress, 1997] and Sobey and Barker [J. Coast. Res. 13 (1997)] has brought the subject to attention, and computational tools can now be made to quantify the effect and to verify when and how it should be taken into consideration in oil slick accident practise.The work presented in this paper is based on random simulation of the wave induced Eulerian velocity field in a directional sea, by making use of standard offshore wave directional models and on the ensemble averaging of floating particles trajectories in order to compute the spatial dispersion.     

地震与波浪联合作用下海洋平台动力特性分析

主要针对地震与波浪联合作用下空间导管架式海洋平台结构的动力响应特性进行研究。以春晓平台结构为例,利用ANSYS程序进行了动力响应的数值计算,分析中考虑了地震设防烈度、风浪条件及场地土类型等因素对结构响应的影响,并与地震单独作用下的结构响应进行了对比。分析结果表明,抗震设防烈度较低、中等及较大风浪条件下对海洋平台结构进行抗震分析时有必要考虑地震与波浪的联合作用。     

波浪作用下桩桩周围局部冲刷研究

通过系统的物理模型试验,考虑波高、周期、水深、泥沙粒径、桩柱直径等影响因素,研究桩柱周围的局部冲刷形态、尺度高。分析了桩柱周转局部产中刷的三种基本类型,得出最大冲刷深度随波数的变化规律,提出了最大冲刷黉度的计算方法。     

A note on wave action conservation in a dissipative current wave motion

We consider steady, slowly varying water waves propagating on a steady current over a gently sloping bed, so-called current depth refraction. All expressions are correct to second order in wave amplitude. Formulating the energy equation for the fluctuating motion in terms of wave action (wave energy divided by intrinsic angular frequency) results in an expression, where the dissipative term is strikingly similar to wave action itself. It is simply the ‘extra’ dissipation (per unit area) caused by the fluctuating motion (i.e. total dissipation minus the effect of current acting on total mean bed shear stress) divided by the intrinsic angular frequency. We call it ‘wave action dissipation’. An inconsistency in Phillips' (1977) book is pointed out. A new formula for the calculation of wave amplitudes along rays is set forth.     

浅水浮式生产储油系统(FPSO)二阶定常力数值仿真研究

应用三维线性势流理论和Ir J A Pinkster的近场分析方法,对超大型浮式生产储油系统(32万吨FPSO)的二阶波浪定常力进行了数值仿真分析,研究浅水情况下,不同水深对FPSO受到二阶波浪定常力的影响,对浅水油田中FPSO的设计应用有一定的实用意义。     

Numerical study on the reverse drift force of floating BBDB wave energy absorbers

The motions and time-mean horizontal drift forces of floating backward-bent duct buoy wave energy absorbers in regular waves are calculated taking account of the oscillating surface-pressure due to the pressure drop in the air chamber above the oscillating water column within the scope of the linear wave theory. The present numerical results show that the time-mean drift forces of backward-bent duct buoys are in the reverse direction of propagation of the incident waves over specific frequency ranges as found by McCormick through his experimental work. The drift force has been calculated by the near-field method. A brief discussion on Maruo’s formula which shows that the time-mean drift force must be in the direction of propagation of the incident waves, has also been presented.     

波浪作用下大尺径圆柱周围局部冲刷

通过系列模型试验，对波浪作用下墩柱周围局部冲刷地形及其形成机理进行了分析，认为最大冲刷深度发生在墩柱前方，与防波堤前冲淤形态类似，分为细沙型和粗沙型。在对各影响因子分析基础上，提出墩柱周围最大冲刷深度计算公式，试验资料表明，该公式与试验值有着良好的一致性。     

Pipeline breakout from sea floor under wave action

The vertical stability of a submarine pipeline laid half-buried on the sea floor under wave action is studied. As the wave-induced lifting force acts to detach the pipe from the sea floor, mud suction resistance will be developing at pipe-soil interface, acting to hold the pipe in place. This couples the pipe equilibrium with the seabed response which is modelled as a poroelastic media, following the formulation of Biot. Conditions for pipe detachment or breakout from the sea floor are investigated for typical seawave, pipe, and seabed parameters. A general power law will describe the slow quasistatic breakout of the pipe. In the case when the forcing wave period is much shorter than the quasistatic breakout time, the response function of the coupled pipe-seabed system will involve weak nonlinear terms of higher harmonics. The possibilities for resonating the system in such case are examined by including the inertia of the pipe in the analysis.     

Longshore sorting on a beach under wave action

Sorting of sediment on a beach under wave action takes several forms. Stratified layers of finer and coarser sediment, which depend on wave climate, grain size and beach slope are formed. This complex problem can be simplified by defining the cross-shore and longshore sorting according to the angle between the breaking wave and the coast. In the present study, longshore distribution of sediment as well as corresponding beach profiles was measured in a wave basin. Three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments were performed with regular waves. Eighteen sets of experiments performed in longshore sorting mechanism using two different sand beds. The sorting of the bed material and the formation of armour coats along the beach were defined by grain size distributions and dimensionless parameters for sandy beaches.The rate of sediment transport with grain size sorting was measured in a wave basin. A method introduced sorting process was presented in this study. The sediment rate based on sorting mechanism was also discussed with known methods. It has been found that the non-uniformity of the grain size and hence sorting of the beaches play a very important role in the sand transport due to wave motion in a similar way to the case of steady flow in alluvial channels.     

Stokes drift estimation for deep water waves based on short-term variation of wave conditions

The paper provides a simple analytical method which can be used to give estimates of the Stokes drift based on short-term variation of wave conditions. This is achieved by providing bivariate distributions of wave height and surface Stokes drift as well as wave height and volume Stokes transport for individual random waves within a sea state. The paper presents and discusses statistical aspects of these Stokes drift parameters, as well as examples of results corresponding to typical field conditions.     

波浪与带窄缝多箱体作用共振现象的模拟研究

针对波浪与带有窄缝多箱体结构作用产生的流体共振问题,建立了基于域内源造波技术的二维非线性时域数值波浪水槽模型,其中自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,窄缝内流体引入人工阻尼来等效由于涡旋运动和流动分离引起的黏性耗散,计算域边界采用高阶边界元进行离散。通过模拟三箱体间两窄缝内相对波高变化,并与已发表的数值与实验结果对比,验证了本模型的准确性。同时通过大量的数值计算,分析了箱体数量对窄缝内水体共振频率、共振波高以及对结构反射波高和透射波高的影响。