水下沙丘形态演化的数值模拟实验

水下沙丘在海洋、湖泊、河流等浅水砂质沉积区广泛分布。基于过程的数值实验方法探讨了沙丘形态演化问题,试图解释在沙丘形成过程中各因素的作用及它们之间的关系。模拟中考虑了以下的变量:水深、沉积物粒度、沉积层厚度以及台风作用。模拟结果显示,沙丘的空间分布控制了空间流场的参数k₂,沙丘波高受水深、沉积物粒度以及沉积层厚度等因素的影响,沉积层厚度决定了沙丘的形态是否饱满。在台风作用中,沙丘波峰的沉积物被侵蚀,高程降低,波高渐小;台风作用后,沉积物被重新输运至波峰,沙丘高度逐渐恢复。因此,沙丘的高度取决于台风作用的时间以及2次台风作用之间的间隔。沙丘形态和尺度在台风作用前后变化较小,但沙丘演化的速度却有所提高。根据台湾浅滩和北海南部地貌系统数据的验证,模拟具有较好的效果。     

不同泥沙输运公式在以潮流为主的浅海、陆架环境中的适用性探讨

泥沙运动问题是个非常复杂的问题。随着经济的发展、科技的进步、环境与工程等的需要,泥沙运动越来越成为研究的热点,但它同时也是研究的难点。地质学家、沉积学家、海洋学家以及工程学家等经常需要了解浅海、陆架上的泥沙运动情况,即泥沙输运率,包括大小与方向。但由于自然条件的复杂性与受技术条件的限制,海洋环境中泥沙运动的研究比河流中的要困难得多。国际上,Ｇａｄｄ等１９７８年在美国的纽约陆架,Ｈｅａｔｈｅｒｓｈａｗ１９８１年在欧洲北海地区对此研究得较早（约７０年代末）,研究较多,研究程度也较高;我国海洋环境中泥…     

南海湄公河水下三角洲上大沙丘的分布特征

根据2003和2004年冬季风之后的2次侧扫声呐调查结果,解释了湄公河水下三角洲上5个区85个水下大沙丘。沙丘尺度,高1.4~13.2 m,长72~672 m的属于Ashley (1990)分类的大和特大水下沙丘。沙丘普遍具有不对称的外形,陡坡指向W—SW。南海冬季季风引起的冬季环流汇同黑潮(分支)逆流是塑造沙丘的主要动力,据实测,金兰湾外冬季环流表层流速达1 ~1.4 m/s。水下沙丘形成于冰消期低海面时期,如今仍然顺南海冬季环流西侧自N向W—SW迁移,沙丘迁移速率约为2.78×10-5 m/s量级(按流速1.1 m/s计算)。     

渤海海峡沉积物输运的数值模拟

根据渤海海峡空间尺度的大小、潮流特征和沉积物的性质特征 ,构造了一个平面二维沉积物输运数值模型。模拟结果显示 ,在研究区内 ,成山头附近的海底沉积物净输运向东南和东北 ,渤海海峡西部的沉积物向西北输运 ,北部大连沿岸的沉积物顺着辽东半岛向西南方向输运 ,然后绕过辽东半岛的南端向北输运。在渤海海峡中部偏东 ,沉积物的净输运趋势形成一个反时针方向的旋涡 ,愈往中心沉积物的净输运率值愈小。海底冲淤趋势的计算结果与观测的结果相符 ,且中部泥区和山东半岛北部近岸泥区正好对应于海底淤积区 ,辽东半岛南岸的狭长泥带对应于淤积条带 ,泥质区的边缘为冲刷区。     

南海北部陆架坡折附近表层沉积物的粒度特征和其输运趋势

对南海北部陆架坡折附近取的50个表层沉积物样品,作粒度测试,计算粒度参数。粒度分析表明研究区的沉积物主要存在4种类型:含砾砂、砾质砂、砂质砾和含砾泥质砂;沉积物组分中砾石和砂占绝对优势,基本上不含黏土。综合因子分析和聚类分析的结果把研究区划分为4类沉积区:Ⅰ类沉积区属于内陆架沉积区,Ⅱ类沉积区属于陆架坡折上部沉积区,Ⅲ类沉积区属于陆架坡折下部沉积区,Ⅳ类沉积区区属于陆架边缘沉积区,每类沉积区都代表着不同的沉积环境。研究区沉积物的粒径趋势分析结果显示,陆架坡折附近的沉积物主要向内陆架和外陆架边缘或上陆坡输运,同时存在着跨陆架输运和沿陆架坡折输运现象,这与研究区实测的底流方向相一致。本研究表明,南海北部陆架坡折附近的沉积环境和沉积物输运模式比较复杂和特殊。本研究对今后陆架和陆坡区其他相关的研究具有十分重要的指导和借鉴意义。     

基于地统计学的粒径输运趋势分析在滦河水下三角洲的应用

利用均匀分布于滦河水下三角洲的85个表层沉积物粒度数据,基于地统计学的粒径输运趋势方法对滦河水下三角洲沉积物的输运趋势及影响因素进行了研究。半方差函数分析表明,以0.015°(地球大圆弧度)为插值半径加密后(规则分布)的平均粒径半方差值具有随变程增加而增加的趋势,并在变程值达到0.09°后趋于稳定,而原始数据的半方差值与变程相关性较差。以此(0.09°)为特征距离计算的粒径输运结果显示,滦河水下三角洲南部水深12 m以浅区域粒径输运趋势以向南为主,北部具有向西和向北的趋势;水深12～15 m范围内粒径输运趋势近似西南方向,且趋势较大;南部水深15 m以深地区粒径输运趋势方向为西北向,北部为东南向。粒径输运趋势整体上与实测潮流、余流和泥沙输运方向一致,显示潮流对研究区沉积物的输运具有控制作用。滦河水下三角洲地区沉积环境和输运趋势受河流、波浪、潮流、残留沉积和地形等多种因素影响,粒径输运趋势仅能够较好地解释潮流影响,对于残留沉积等复杂沉积过程的解释则相对有限。     

内孤立波过陆架陆坡地形的数值模拟研究

内波是海洋中普遍存在的波动形式。内孤立波是典型的非线性内波,多发于陆架边缘海,如南海等海域,对陆架海域有重要影响。本文针对内孤立波在陆架地形上的传播问题,先基于弱非线性与全非线性数值模型,模拟了不同振幅、地形高度条件下内孤立波的演化的过程,探讨了动力系数对内孤立波演化过程的影响,对比了两模型的模拟结果在内孤立波演化过程、能量分配以及能量耗散的差异,后分析了南海的动力系数分布特征。结果表明,在内孤立波不发生破碎的情况下,弱非线性模型与全非线性模拟结果相近。当发生破碎过程时,弱非线性模型可准确模拟头波,但无法通过强非线性的破碎过程耗散能量,只能以裂变的方式辐射能量。在弱非线性模型中,随地形高度增加,频散系数减小到零,平方非线性系数由负转正,立方非线性系数绝对值增大一个量级,并主导陆架地形上内孤立波的演化过程。通过对比南海夏季与冬季非线性内波动力系数空间分布,发现内孤立波在传播过程由于夏季平方非线性效应、立方非线性效应与频散效应较强的影响,其在夏季更易发生陡化与裂变,波列发生频率高。     

基于FVCOM的南海北部海域潮汐潮流数值模拟

基于非结构三角形网格的FVCOM(finite-volume coastal ocean model )数值模型, 对南海北部海域的潮汐、潮流进行了精细化数值模拟研究, 并根据模拟结果详细分析了M2, S2, K1, O1 分潮的潮汐和潮流特征。研究结果表明: 神泉港到甲子港海域表现为正规全日潮性质, 珠江口附近海区潮汐以不正规半日潮为主, 其他海域主要表现为不规则全日潮; 陆架海域和深水海域主要表现为往复流, 陆架坡折区存在较强的旋转流, 陆架坡折区为不规则半日潮流和不规则全日潮流的分界线; 东沙群岛附近海域以不规则全日潮流为主, 旋转方向为顺时针; 整个海域的最大流速分布与等深线基本平行, 东沙群岛附近速度明显变大, 最大值出现在台湾浅滩附近, 最大值超过70 cm/s; 南海潮波系统以巴士海峡传入的大洋潮波为主, 分为三支潮流, 以不同的形式进出南海北部海域; 余流在台湾浅滩附近达到最大, 超过6 cm/s, 自南向北进入台湾海峡, 近岸余流自东向西沿岸流动。本研究在东沙群岛周边的模拟结果与前人基于实测资料的分析吻合较好, 并且由于采用了高精度的三角网格, 本文对东沙群岛周边海域的潮汐潮流结构和性质的刻画和分析是迄今为止较为精细的, 同时本研究还提高了对沿岸验潮站调和常数的模拟精度。     

系泊方式与结构外形对水下中部悬置构筑物稳定性影响的数值模拟研究

针对水下中部悬置构筑物,本文基于ANSYS中的Fluent和Aqwa模块,比较了单索单点系泊、三索单点系泊、三索三点系泊及球形、圆柱-半球形、碟形三种外形对其水中稳定性的影响。由数值模拟结果显示,在200 m水深,水流速度为2 m/s作用下,碟形构筑物采用三索单点系泊方式的稳定性更为优。     

基于砂质海岸剖面形态数值模拟的参数敏感度分析

为了探究XBeach模型中系统的参数调试对模拟剖面演变的影响,该文基于波浪水槽实验通过广义似然不确定性估计法(GLUE)对XBeach模型中的波浪非线性(facua)、沙滩湿崩塌临界坡度(wetslp)、波能耗散(alpha)等调试参数进行敏感性分析,阐述所选参数的物理意义及控制方程,选取不同的参数值观察岸滩剖面演变过程,并通过Brier Skill Score评价方法对模拟效果进行评价。结果表明改变参数值大小会得到不同的岸滩剖面模拟形态。其中参数facua控制波形,波浪由于非线性作用于岸滩会使剖面发生不同趋势的演变,改变facua参数值能够改变模拟剖面演化的趋势,使得模拟地形剖面演变产生较大的变化;参数wetslp作为湿崩塌临界斜率,改变其数值大小模拟地形改变的首要特征为剖面坡度;参数alpha作为波能耗散系数,改变其值会影响破波所释放的能量,从而影响剖面的侵淤程度。最终选取三者值分别为0.65、0.2、1.3,与水槽实验结果拟合最好。该结果对于XBeach的研究及应用具有一定的参考意义。     

舟山岛马岙岸段海岸演变与水下岸坡冲淤动态

利用不同年份的水深地形资料进行冲淤计算,结合实测水文泥沙、现场岸滩沉积地貌观察、新老海堤分布位置及以往浅地层探测和考古等资料综合分析发现,岸滩地貌形态从大约距今7 000 a前的一个古基岩港湾经受细颗粒泥沙长期不断地充填、淤积转化为近乎平直的岸段.在自然和人类活动的共同作用下,近370 a来海岸线以5.3 m/a的速度向海推移,潮滩以0.25 cm/a的速率沉积.近40余年来水下岸坡平均冲淤速率为-3.8~2.4 cm/a,横向冲淤调整有类似砂质海岸剖面塑造的特性,泥沙经受了在横向剖面"上部微淤、下部微冲"和纵向总体"东侧微冲、中西部微淤"的交替重复调整过程,目前朝着"上部微淤、下部微冲"的均衡剖面调整方向发展.     

Hydrodynamic and sedimentary responses to two contrasting winter storms on the inner shelf of the northern Gulf of Mexico

Results are presented from the deployment of three bottom-mounted instrumentation systems in water depths of 6–9 m on the sandy inner shelf of Louisiana, USA. The 61-day deployment included nine cold front passages that were associated with large increases in wind speed. Two of the most energetic cold front passages were characterized by distinct meteorological, hydrodynamic, bottom boundary layer, and sedimentary responses and may potentially be treated as end-member types on a continuum of regional cold front passages. Arctic surges (AC storms) have a very weak pre-frontal phase followed by a fairly powerful post-frontal phase, when northeasterly winds dominate. Migrating cyclones (MC storms) are dominated by a strong low-pressure cell and have fairly strong southerly winds prior to the frontal passage, followed by strong northwesterly winds.

On the basis of measurements taken during this study, AC storms are expected to have a lower average significant wave height than MC storms and are dominated by short-period southerly waves subsequent to the frontal passage. Currents are weak and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but become very strong and southwesterly following the passage. Sediment transport rate during AS storms was not as high as during MC storms, and the mean and overall direction tended to be southwesterly to westerly, with low-frequency flows producing easterly transport, and wind-wave flows producing southeasterly transport.

MC storms had the most energetic waves of any storm type, with peaks in significant wave height occurring during both the pre- and post-frontal phases. The wave field during MC storms tended to be more complex than during AS storms, with an energetic, northerly swell band gradually giving way to a southerly sea band as the post-frontal phase progressed. Currents during MC storms were moderate and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but became much stronger and southeasterly during the post-frontal phase. Shear velocity was high during both the pre- and post-frontal phases of the storm, although sediment transport was highest following the frontal passage. Mean and overall sediment transport was directed southeasterly during MC storms, with low-frequency and wind-wave flows producing northerly transport. In summary, the data sets presented here are unique and offer insight into the morphosedimentary dynamics of mid-latitude, micro-tidal coasts during extratropical storms.     

Applicability of sediment transport models to evaluate medium term evolution of tidal inlet systems

This paper derives local formulae to estimate bed roughness and suspended transport and present a method to calculate net sediment transport at tidal inlet systems, combining field data and a range of well established empirical formulations. To accomplish this, measurements spanning a spring-tidal cycle of mean water levels, waves, near-bed flow turbulence and bed forms were obtained from the Ancão Inlet, Ria Formosa lagoon system, Portugal. High-resolution hydrodynamic data were gathered using acoustic equipments and by measuring sediment properties (grain-size diameter and bed form dimensions) under fair-weather conditions. The results compared favourably with available direct and indirect field observations of sediment transport rates. The approach appears to be robust and widely applicable and so can be applied to the same conditions in any tidal inlet system. This is of particular importance when attempting to understand sediment transport at inlet mouths, and has practical applications in a range of coastal engineering and coastal management areas concerned with navigation safety, coastal erosion, ecosystem health and water quality. The study discusses the applicability of the method on evaluating system flushing capacity, giving important insights on multiple inlet evolution, particularly with regard to their persistence through time. The methodological framework can be applied to assess the long-term stability of single- and multiple-inlet systems, provided that estimates of sediment storage at ebb-tidal deltas are available and sediment transport estimates during storm events are statistically considered.     

Contribution of hydrodynamic conditions during shallow water stages to the sediment balance on a tidal flat: Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, Normandy, France

Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m³) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed.     

黄海、东海陆架区沉积物中氮的形态分布及与浮游植物总量的关系

利用分级浸取分离法将黄海、东海陆架区沉积物氮分为转化态氮(TF-N)和非转化态氮,并将可转化态氮区分为4种形态:离子交换态氮IEF-N 、碳酸盐结合态氮CF-N 、铁锰氧化态氮IMOF-N及有机态和硫化物结合态氮OSF-N。 对各形态氮的平面、垂直和沉积剖面年际分布进行了分析,并进一步探讨了该区域氮形态与古生产力的替代指标——生物硅(BSi)的相关性,揭示了氮形态的地球化学特征及与浮游植物总量的关系。结果表明,黄海、东海陆架区表层沉积物中可转化态氮占总氮的百分比为16.81%,可转化态氮中4种形态氮的平均含量为:IMOF-N(66.65 μg/g)>IEF-N(22.96 μg/g)>OSF-N(17.40 μg/g)>CF-N(11.26 μg/g),IMOF-N是可转化态氮的优势形态;柱状沉积物中各形态氮垂直分布不同,长江口沉积物中各形态氮垂向变化幅度大于南黄海中部;离子交换态氮IEF-N和铁锰氧化态氮IMOF-N对浮游植物总量贡献较大。     

涌潮水沙动力过程现场观测研究进展

涌潮是潮波传播过程中产生的一种自然现象,是潮波非线性畸变的结果。涌潮有波状和破碎形态之分,波状涌潮是一系列平行向前传播的涌波构成的波列,破碎涌潮则是前锋陡立向前推进的水滚。基于国内外涌潮水沙动力过程现场观测的主要成果,从形成机理出发,归纳涌潮生成的必要条件,剖析潮波运动非线性和摩擦效应对涌潮生成的影响;针对典型的波状和破碎涌潮,总结潮头的自由表面特征参数、流动结构和传播演化特征;回顾涌潮局部湍流和混合过程、泥沙输运和沉积的研究进展,评述涌潮脉冲过程对河口生态环境的影响。涌潮的周期性传播引起自然系统的大规模混合,对潮汐河口区域的生态环境平衡具有重要意义。涌潮现象的研究推动潮汐学的发展,现场观测是涌潮研究的基础。随着仪器设备和分析手段的进步,涌潮多尺度生成与演化机制、涌潮多物理过程耦合作用机理和涌潮脉冲过程的生态效应定量评价是今后需要深入研究的问题。