Beach accretion and erosion, Burullus-Gamasa coast, Egypt

Several areas of erosion and accretion were observed along the Burullus-Gamasa beach. The accreted sands are coarser and less sorted than the eroded ones. Differentiation between them could be achieved on the basis of their grain-size fractions, shape of grain-size distribution curves and statistical grain-size parameter relationships.     

Dealing with erosion along the Danube Delta coast. The CONSCIENCE experience towards a sustainable coastline management

The most severe shoreline retreat (over 20 m/year) along the Danube Delta coast has been recorded in the coastal stretch confined by the Sulina branch (north) and Sahalin spit island (south). This erosive trend is caused by the natural evolution of some stretches of the Danube Delta coast, but strongly enhanced by the human activities. Human interventions result in the dramatic decrease in quantity of sediments reaching the coast and in the disruption of natural sediment circulation in the coastal area. EUROSION FP5 Project developed four concepts to be used in coastal studies: coastal sediment cell, coastal resilience, favourable sediment status and strategic sediment reservoir. The main objectives of this study regard the application of the CONSCIENCE methodology and test of the concepts in order to identify and understand the main threats for Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, especially the coastal erosion one, as well as to provide a sound working methodology for coastal managers to deal with these threats. The sediment budget computed in previous studies, as well as the field observations, indicate a lack of sediments for the littoral cell (unfavourable sediment status). In order to asses the vulnerability of the coast to short term extreme events (especially storms), simulations of water level changes were performed and calibrated with the field observations. A processes based numerical model was used to simulate the storm induced water level variations and the main input data were the bathymetry of the active beach, wind direction and speed (storm scenarios) and the characteristics of water and air. The results show large water level increases for the central part of the study zone, especially for northern wind directions.The main solution proposed to deal the problems arising from a sediment-starved coast, vulnerable to the extreme events, is artificial nourishment. Two strategic sediment reservoirs were identified, both of them at the northern boundary of the cell: the sediments dredged periodically from Sulina mouth and the sediments accumulated in Musura Bay, just north of Sulina jetties. The transfer of these sediments towards the central part of the littoral cell Sulina - Sahalin would decrease the erosion rates to a natural level and restore the natural coastal resilience. The methodology developed in CONSCIENCE Framework and applied to Danube Delta coastal zone provided good results when problems and solutions for the coastal zone were to be identified and tested. This methodology and its related results can be applied by the local coastal managers to Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, while this experience can be extended to other similar environments facing the same problems.     

Beach nourishment,a practical method of erosion control

Artificial beach nourishment, the placing of sand onto eroded beaches, is increasingly employed by coastal engineers as an alternative to structural control of shoreline erosion. Man-made beaches approximating natural forms and processes offer greater protection against storms than eroded beaches and provide increased recreational opportunities. It is hoped that maintenance nourishment will keep pace with subsidence and eustatic rise in sea level, primary causes of beach erosion. Even though negative impacts of beach restoration may be short-lived and limited in scope, sound ecological engineering practices require careful monitoring of dredging operations.     

广西北海银滩侵蚀动力研究

广西北海银滩是一处典型的强潮海滩,以滩面宽阔、砂质纯白为特征,为当地的一处著名旅游景点。近年来银滩也出现了岸线后退、滩肩消失、沉积粗化等侵蚀迹象。为了研究银滩侵蚀的动力机制,本文对银滩海水浴场当前的滩面高程、坡度以及滩面后退距离特征进行了调查和分析。并基于2016−2018年间的滩面高程动态变化,分析了冬、春季风浪和台风期间水位、波浪特征与滩面侵蚀之间的关系,并进而探讨了最有可能造成银滩侵蚀的台风路径。研究表明,1985年以来的滩面最大后退距离为80 m,侵蚀造成海滩上部滩面坡度降低,使得海滩上部的剖面形态向上凸状转化。冬、春季节的风浪叠加高水位可能会造成一定程度的滩面侵蚀,并在海滩上部形成脊槽地貌,但是这种侵蚀会被夏季西南向涌浪导致的回淤所恢复。造成银滩侵蚀后退的主要原因是2003年以来风暴潮重现频率增加。发源于西太平洋,经海南岛北部或雷州半岛进入北部湾的台风可以导致显著的海岸增水,最易于引起强烈的海滩侵蚀事件。银滩东侧的渔港码头阻断了自东向西的泥沙沿岸净输运,也是加剧银滩侵蚀的重要因素。     

Effects of shoreline and bedrock irregularities on the morphodynamics of the Alexandria coast littoral cell,Egypt

Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*10⁶ m³) has increased slightly by 0.041*10⁶ m³ year^–1 as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge.     

Beach and dune erosion during storm surges

This paper presents the set-up and results of an extensive research programme concerning the erosion of coastal dunes during storm surges. A large number of two-dimensional and three-dimensional mobile-bed model tests has been carried out to investigate the process of dune erosion. The state of art after a series of small-scale tests is summarized. Attention is focussed on large-scale tests carried out in the Delta Flume with random waves up to 2 m significant height. Sediment concentration and orbital velocity measurements are discussed. The large-scale tests have confirmed the validity of a modelling technique based on the dimensionless fall velocity parameter H/Tw. The model results are being applied to check the safety of existing coastal dunes as a water-retaining structure that has to protect the major part of the Netherlands from inundation during storm surges.     

Approaches to the study of cheniers along the coastline of the Soviet Union

With the very extensive coastline in the north and northeast and the relatively shorter coastlines in the south, cheniers in the USSR can occur in a great variety of climatological conditions ranging from subarctic to subtropical. Cheniers in the USSR have been studied since approximately 1900, the investigations being mainly concerned with the palaeogeographical aspects. Since the 1960's, investigations have focussed on contemporary morphodynamics. Chenier formation appears to depend largely on the relative influence that marine and fluvial factors have on the formation of marginal deltaic plains. Research in this field is briefly reviewed.     

Subtidal macroalgal richness,diversity and turnover,at multiple spatial scales,along the southwestern Australian coastline

Patterns of species richness are governed by processes that act at vastly different spatial scales. In the marine system of southwest Australia, macroalgal assemblage structure and richness is thought to be strongly influenced by both the Leeuwin Current, which acts at large regional spatial scales, and small-scale processes such as competition, wave disturbance and habitat heterogeneity. We examined macroalgal species richness and diversity at multiple spatial scales using a three-factor hierarchal design. Spatial extents ranged from metres (between quadrats) to many hundreds of kilometres (between regions), and the study encompassed almost 2000 km of temperate coastline. Macroalgal assemblages were highly speciose and the number, identity, and diversity of species varied considerably at all spatial scales. Small scale variability, at the scale of site or quadrat, contributed most to total variation in species richness and diversity, suggesting that small-scale processes are important drivers of ecological pattern in this system. Species richness, diversity and taxonomic distinctness increased sequentially along the coastline, from warmer to cooler waters. Small scale variability was most likely maintained by wave disturbance and habitat heterogeneity at these scales, while regional scale diversity and richness clines were attributed to the fact that most species had cool-water affinities and the southern coast of Australia is a hotspot of floral speciation and diversity. Macroalgal assemblages in southwest Australia are speciose and largely endemic, and biodiversity patterns are structured by multiple processes operating at multiple spatial scales.     

Sea Level Change Analysis and Models Identification Based on Short Tidal Gauge Measurements in Alexandria,Egypt

Sea level change analysis and models identification are important factors used for coastal engineering applications. Moreover, sea level change modeling is used widely to evaluate and study shoreline and climate changes. This study intends to analyze and model Alexandria, Egypt sea level change by investigating yearly tide gauge data collected in a short duration (2008–2011). The time-frequency method was used to evaluate the meteorological noise frequencies. Two models were used to predict the time series data: Neural Network Autoregressive Moving Average (NNARMA) and Adaptive Neuro-Fuzzy Inference System (ANFIS). The time-frequency analysis and models identification results showed that no extreme events were detected for Alexandria point during the monitoring period. Therefore, the NNARMA and ANFIS models can be used to identify the sea level change. The estimates of the models were compared with the three different statistics, determination coefficient, root mean square errors, and auto-correlation function. Comparison of these results revealed that the NNARMA model performs better than the ANFIS model for the study area.     

Heavy metals distribution in mangrove sediments along the mobile coastline of French Guiana

The accumulation of nine heavy metals in fine-grained sediments from the mangrove fringed coast of French Guiana is evaluated. The dynamic features of the South American tropical coastline, from the Amazon to the Orinoco Rivers, result in mangrove sediments being alternately submitted to phases of erosion and net sedimentation a few tens of years long. This process influences the distribution of the heavy metals associated with these frequently re-mobilized deposits. Sedimentary cores and mangrove plant samples were collected, at different seasons, in various swamps characterized by different properties (content of sedimentary organic matter, distance from sea water and fresh water). The ranges of measured concentrations expressed in μmol g^− 1 were the following: Cu (0.06 to 0.61), Co (0.12 to 0.68), Pb (0.08 to 0.18), Ni (0.32 to 0.76), Cr (0.61 to 1.40), Zn (1.25 to 5.94), Mn (4.36 to 45.4) and Fe (441 to 1128). No differences were found between sediments from mangroves developing upstream and downstream of urban areas, i.e. Cayenne and Kourou. This suggests that the content of mangrove sediments in heavy metals along the coastline of French Guiana is essentially the result of the continuous alternation of accumulation and transport phases occurring upstream after departing from the Amazon watershed. The sources of this heavy metals content are thus difficult to identify. However it is well known that the alluvium produced by the natural erosion of the Amazonian soils is naturally enriched in mercury. Also, the run-off from gold mining activities is known to contribute to mercury pollution. Ranges in total Hg were between 0.15 and 2.57 nmol g^− 1, with mean values close to 0.41 nmol g^− 1, and were clearly correlated with total organic carbon except for some outstanding high values, which may be a result of rapid geochemical changes. Heavy metal concentrations showed variations with depth. The redox conditions and the decay processes affecting the organic matter control the cycling of iron and manganese, which in turn control the concentrations and associations of heavy metals. These preliminary results suggest that the variations in heavy metal content with depth or between mangrove areas result largely from diagenetic processes rather than changes in metal input resulting from local human activities.     

Distribution of ciliates in relation to environmental factors along the coastline of the Gulf of Gabes, Tunisia

We studied the seasonal distribution of the ciliate community coupled with environmental factors along the coast at three stations sampled (from March 2006 to February 2007) in the Gulf of Gabes (Tunisia, Eastern Mediterranean Sea). A total of 56 species belonging to 11 orders, were identified. Harbor of Gabes station was more diversified (45 species) than both Tabia (26 species) and Karboub (31 species) stations. The ciliate assemblage was numerically dominated by Spirotrichea in Tabia (82% of the total abundance), in the Harbor of Gabes (86% of the total abundance), whereas, in Karboub, Spirotrichea represented only 40% of the total abundance. The unexpected lower quantitative importance of Spirotrichea in Karboub station was apparently the result of the high salt concentration found in water samples throughout the study, probably originating from the saline area surrounding Karboub station, known as Sabkha. The distribution of species in the nearshore of the Gulf of Gabes seemed most likely influenced by the combined effects of temperature, salinity and hydrographic conditions.     

苏北废黄河三角洲海岸线动态演变分析

以苏北废黄河三角洲海岸1989、1995、2006和2010年4期Landsat TM影像为数据源,运用一般高潮线法,对各期影像分类处理后提取海岸线,分析了研究区海岸线21年间动态演变的时空分布特征,并初步探讨其主要控制因素。结果表明:(1)北翼灌河口—中山河口岸段在1989-2010年21年间整体表现为蚀淤交替,淤积岸段逐渐向南迁移,主要集中分布于普港和新滩港岸段,平均淤积速率最大达39.82 m/a(2006-2010);中部岬角中山河口—扁担河口岸段在研究期间平均蚀退速率为13.79 m/a,其中南段侵蚀强度最高,可达23.23 m/a,为整个研究区海岸侵蚀最快的岸段,北段次之,中段最低,随时间推进,总体侵蚀渐缓;南翼扁担河口—夸套河口岸段21年间平均蚀退速率达17.30 m/a,夸套河口以南则呈现快速淤积-缓慢淤积-蚀淤基本平衡的过渡态势。(2)近20多年来,废黄河三角洲海岸由于受到海岸轮廓形态、动力作用(波浪、潮流、沿岸流与重力等)及人类活动(保滩护岸工程、盐田与围垦工程及港口工程等)的影响,各岸段呈现出不同的侵蚀-淤积特点。     

江苏沿海贝类软体中麻痹性贝毒素种类及含量变化的多年观测研究

Paralytic shellfish toxins(PSTs) are notorious neurotoxins that threaten public health and food safety worldwide.Although PST monitoring programs have recently been established throughout China, the profiles and variation of PSTs in important commercial clams(e.g., Mactra veneriformis, Ruditapes philippinarum, and Meretrix meretrix) along the Jiangsu Province coastline remain largely unexplored. In this study, a validated hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry(HILIC-MS/MS) method was used to examine PST profiles and levels in 540 clam samples from natural production areas along Jiangsu Province coastline during2014–2016. Although the PST levels(≤6.38 μg saxitotoxin equivalents(eq)/kg) were consistently below European Union regulatory limits(≤800 μg saxitotoxin eq/kg) during this time period, saxitotoxin, decarbamoylsaxitotoxin,and gonyautoxins 1 and 4 were detected, and nearly 40% of the samples were saxitotoxin-positive. The PST levels also varied significantly by seasons, with peak values observed in May during 2014–2016. This is the first systematic report of PSTs in clams from Jiangsu Province, and additional research and protective measures are needed to ensure the safety of clams harvested in this area.     

Spatial variation of the intertidal sediments and macrozoo-benthic assemblages along Eighty-mile Beach, North-western Australia

The extensive intertidal flats along Eighty-mile Beach in North-western Australia appear to be monotonous and homogeneous and seem ideally suited to study tidal zonation in macrozoo-benthic communities and their possible correlates with characteristics of the sediment. In October 1999, we sampled benthic invertebrates and sediments at a total of 895 sampling stations distributed over six different locations, each location separated by 15 km of unsampled foreshore along Eighty-mile Beach. To test for the presence or absence of patterns of tidal zonation (distinct height-related zones of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups) or patchiness (distinct patches of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups not related to tidal height) each location was divided into three along-shore sections and each section (transect) was examined at two or three tidal heights. Zonation was observed for sediment grain sizes. Sediments were coarser at the highest intertidal level and finer towards the low water line. Benthic assemblages also differed among tidal heights, but in terms of species-composition the differences were not consistent among the locations. Each location supported a unique collection of benthic invertebrates. Therefore the hypothesis of the presence of distinct zones of specific species or zoobenthic taxonomic groups was rejected; the presence of benthic patches was confirmed. The distribution of sediments and the composition of benthic assemblages were surprisingly poorly correlated compared to those reported in 12 previous quantitative studies around the world. One possible explanation might be that super-cyclone Vance, which hit the study-area only six months before this study, contributed to this poor correlation. Alternatively, the poor correlation may indicate that biotic interactions are more important than the assumed abiotic structuring.     

辽东湾近岸堆积冰表面形态特征分析

2005 年 1 月在辽东湾盘锦市附近的海滨进行了堆积冰表面形态的现场调查.使用全站仪测量了 5 条不同起伏程度的堆积冰表面轮廓剖面,利用表面起伏高度数据和表面轮廓线在平均高度处的切角数据分析了堆积冰表面形态特征.对堆积冰区内的 3 个冰脊进行了内部层状结构观测,外部破碎冰块尺寸测量和 1 个冰脊涨、落潮时表面高度变化测量.利用这些数据,描述了冰脊内的分层结构;统计分析了冰脊外表层的破碎冰块尺寸并得到描述它们的主要参数值.此外,对冰脊涨、落潮时的表面形态进行了三维仿真绘图并计算了其表面形态参数.     

Worst scenarios of tsunami effects along the Mediterranean coast of Egypt

Scenarios of tsunami effects represent a very useful technique for the definition and evaluation of tsunami hazard and risk for the Egyptian coast. This paper is an attempt to develop different worst scenarios of tsunamigenesis toward the Egyptian Coast for five segment localities along three different sub-regions (Hellenic Arc, Cyprean Arc and Levantine Coast) in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. These segments are the southwest Hellenic Arc, southeast Hellenic Arc, northeast Hellenic Arc, west of Cyprean Arc and Levantine. For each of them, the scenario takes into account a seismic fault capable of generating an earthquake with magnitude equal to or larger than the highest magnitude registered in that region in historical times. Then the ensuing tsunamis are simulated numerically, highlighting the basic features of the wave propagation and roughly identifying the coastal sectors that are expected to suffer the heaviest tsunami effects. The output data indicated that the first wave of tsunamis from different segments attacked the nearest reference localities (city located nearest each segment) along the Egyptian shore between 28 and 50 min after an earthquake. Tsunamis from these earthquake scenarios produced maximum run-up heights ranging from 1.7 to 9.4 m at the shore. A Beirut Thrust scenario (Levantine segment) included the fact that only a small portion of the fault extended out into the sea, leading to a small effective tsunami source area. In contrast, the southwest Hellenic Arc segment (as in the A.D. 365 earthquake) has high displacement (15 m) and a long extensional fault, forming a highly effective tsunami source area.     

Winter distribution of diatom assemblages along the coastline of R. O. Korea in 2010

Diatoms are a globally successful and eukaryotic photosynthetic organism with an ornamented silica external wall. The relationship between their valve morphology and habitat means that diatoms can be used as bioindicators to characterize the aquatic environment. To estimate the differential distribution and diversity of diatom assemblages along the coastal line, we collected phytoplankton samples from 114 coastal sites of waters of R. O. Korea. We applied the unweighted pair-group technique usin...     

Towards a calculation of organic carbon release from erosion of Arctic coasts using non-fractal coastline datasets

Changing environmental conditions in the Arctic will affect patterns of coastal erosion processes and thus modify the carbon cycle in the Arctic Ocean. To address this issue, a coastal classification of the Arctic was established to provide the first reliable estimate of organic carbon input from coastal erosion to the Arctic Ocean. The calculation relies on geomorphic parameters and the length of the coastline in the form of a line dataset used in geographical information systems (the World Vector Shoreline). The statistical self-similarity of Arctic shorelines (i.e. the fact that they exhibit similar features and hence different lengths at different scales) hampers the calculation process. Delineating the same section of shoreline at different spatial scales produces changes in the calculated length of the coastline and therefore in the volume of sediment released by up to 30% in some cases. The amount of change differs depending on the type and morphology of the coastline. The length of the World Vector Shoreline does not correlate well to any one scale and is inappropriate for use at the global level. Computations of erosion based on areas instead of lengths (i.e. buffers instead of shoreline lengths) provide a valuable yet simple substitute to the length-based method. Differences in quantities of eroded sediment are, on average, 70% less affected by scale changes when areas are used. Area-based methods are therefore recommended for circum-polar, computation-demanding, shoreline-based erosion calculations.