Importance of wave-induced bed liquefaction in the fine sediment budget of Cleveland Bay,Great Barrier Reef

Data from a three-year long field study of fine sediment dynamics in Cleveland Bay show that wave-induced liquefaction of the fine sediment bed on the seafloor in shallow water was the main process causing bed erosion under small waves during tradewinds, and that shear-induced erosion prevailed during cyclonic conditions. These data were used to verify a model of fine sediment dynamics that calculates sediment resuspension by both excess shear stress and wave-induced liquefaction of the bed. For present land-use conditions, the amount of riverine sediments settling on the bay may exceed by 50–75% the amount of sediment exported from the bay. Sediment is thus accumulating in the bay on an annual basis, which in turn may degrade the fringing coral reefs. For those years when a tropical cyclone impacted the bay there may be a net sediment outflow from the bay. During the dry, tradewind season, fine sediment was progressively winnowed out of the shallow, reefal waters.     

长江河口近底层悬沙和沉积物的交换过程研究

大河河口的动力沉积过程一直是陆海相互作用研究的核心内容,其中水体泥沙的垂向交换是河口动力-沉积机制分析中的关键环节。基于2011年12月对长江河口及其邻近海湾采集的大范围、高密度的近底层悬沙、海床表层1~2cm(表层沉积物)和垂向向下约2~10cm的沉积物(次表层沉积物)同步3组303个样品,利用经验正交函数方法,对河口地区的悬沙和沉积物交换过程进行研究。结果表明:近底层水体悬沙的空间分布模式主要以粉砂粒级为主,空间分布差异性不大;表层及次表层沉积物的空间分布模式相似,但较近底层水体悬沙的分布复杂,存在明显的区域性特征,其中南汇边滩水域中部辐散区的沉积物表现为粗粉砂-细砂模式,其他区域由粉砂组分模式组成。近底层水体悬沙、表层和次表层沉积物的第一模态主要反映了粒径较细的泥沙运动,第二模态主要反映了粒径较粗的泥沙运动。在近底层水体悬沙与表层沉积物的垂向交换中,主要交换粒级为粉砂组分粒级。在表层沉积物与次表层沉积物的垂向交换中,南汇边滩中部辐散区的主要交换粒级为粗粉砂-细砂组分粒级,其他区域主要为粉砂组分粒级。     

Sedimentological processes in the southern margin of the Cretan Sea (NE Mediterranean)

The Cretan Basin can be characterized as a back-arc basin of the Hellenic Trench System, that is related to the subduction zone of the African Plate under the Eurasia Plate. The study area includes the narrow and relatively steep (gradient 1.5°) continental shelf of the island of Crete followed by the steep slope (2°–4°) and the rather flat deeper part of the Cretan basin (water depths >1700 m).Surficial sediments of the coastal zone are coarser and of terrigenous origin, while in deeper waters finer sediments, of biogenic origin, are more abundant. Sand-sized calcareous sediment accumulations, identified in middle-lower slope, may be attributed to the aggregation of seabed biogenic material related to the near bed current activity.High resolution profiles (3.5 kHz) taken from the inner shelf shows a typical sigmoid-oblique progradational configuration, implying prodelta sediment accumulation during the Holocene. In the upper-middle slope, sub-bottom reflectors indicate continuous sedimentation of alternating fine and/or coarse grained material. Small-scale gravity induced synsedimentary faults appeared, locally. In contrast, a series of gravity induced faults, identified in the lower slope, are associated with sediment instabilities due to seismotectonic activity. Sediment cores taken from the shelf-break consists of calcareous muddy sand with small amounts of terrigenous silt and fine sand, while the cores recovered from the middle slope has revealed a more homogeneous fine sediment texture of hemipelagic deposition.The prevailing accumulation processes in the southern margin of the Cretan basin are: (i) prodelta deposition in the inner-middle shelf; (ii) settling from bottom nepheloid layers in the shelf and upper slope; (iii) calcareous sediment formation due to settling from suspension and post accumulation aggregation (middle-lower slope); (iv) long-term episodic sediment gravity processes in the lower slope; and (v) to a lesser extent, redeposition from resuspension due to gravity processes and bottom currents.     

苏北潮滩不同生态带沉积物分布特征

利用2004年1月3日在江苏盐城珍禽国家级自然保护区核心区新洋港采集到的表层和柱状沉积物样品,采用矩值法对该潮滩沉积物粒度和粒度参数进行了分析和计算,并对潮滩沉积物的水平和垂向分布特征以及不同植被对沉积物分布的影响进行了研究,结果表明:(1)自海向陆,光滩、互花米草滩、互花米草盐蒿混合滩、盐蒿滩和芦苇地5个亚带中,光滩沉积物的粒径明显较其它4个亚带处的粒径大,在接近互花米草滩时沉积物的粒径迅速变小,而互花米草滩等其它4个亚带处的沉积物粒径则变化不大。较低部位光滩沉积物的频率分布曲线呈不明显双峰分布,而较高部位的光滩及其它生态带内的沉积物频率分布曲线均为单峰,显示出物源较为单一的特点。(2)沉积物自海向陆粒度特征的变化规律反映了潮滩水动力条件对沉积物分布的影响,尤其是反映了盐沼植物在潮滩的发育过程中所起的重要作用。(3)周期性变化的潮动力作用、潮流不对称作用、植被以及潮滩不同部位淤积演化差异的影响造成了潮滩不同部位沉积物敏感组分粒度垂向变化的差异。     

山东半岛近海不同粉砂粒级含量分布的空间差异性及其沉积学意义

粉砂是现代陆架和河口沉积物最主要的粒级组分,但由于其复杂的沉积动力学行为,我们对于不同粉砂粒级的沉积学特征和行为并没有完全掌握。本文分析了山东半岛近海表层沉积物中不同粉砂粒级组分含量的空间分布特征,探讨了其控制因素。结果表明,山东半岛周边近海沉积物类型以泥质沉积为主,但不同粉砂粒级组分具有明显的空间分布差异性。极细粉砂、细粉砂与黏土组分的含量变化一致,表明了其相似的沉积动力学行为。粗粉砂组分的含量空间变化最大,在山东半岛的北部泥质条带、东部“泥楔”和南部近岸具有明显的高含量,其含量与其他各粉砂组分具有明显的负相关性。从表层沉积物的粒度组分与分布规律,可以证明研究区表层沉积物主要以黄河携带物质为主,但流入本区的一些中小型河流也明显提供了部分物源,只是其提供物质的扩散范围有限。结合水动力分析和物理海洋学等方面的认识,我们认为造成不同粉砂组分空间分布差异性的原因主要受物源、区域水动力学条件、局部地形（底形）等因素控制。另外,还发现了山东半岛“泥楔”沉积物的粗粉砂组分含量偏高、现代沉积速率也偏大,这些现象在空间上与“海洋锋面”位置一致,对于海洋锋面的沉积学意义还需要进一步的调查研究和数值模拟工作。     

不同悬沙组分对潮流的响应关系研究

通过建立一维水深平均悬沙模型,对典型潮流控制的海湾内不同悬沙组分对潮流的响应关系进行了研究。模型以泥沙的水平输运、再悬浮和沉降为主要物理过程,以M2,S2分潮及余流为主要动力因素,反演了湄洲湾支水道内粉砂、淤泥组分含量的时间序列,采用2007-08潮位、潮流、悬沙、底质同步观测资料进行分析和验证。通过三角傅里叶分析,将悬沙的时间序列分解为12个主要的谐波分量,模型分解得到的主要傅里叶分量具有M2分潮两倍的角速度与1/4日潮周期,该分量粉砂组分振幅6.1 mg/L,淤泥组分振幅1.5 mg/L;次主要傅里叶分量具有M2分潮的角速度,振幅受水平输沙、余流、M2分潮流共同影响,粉砂组分振幅4.9 mg/L,淤泥组分振幅1.2 mg/L。由于粉砂组分单位起动能力强、沉降速度高,且淤泥组分由于粘结力等因素起动条件较高,粉砂组分振幅高于淤泥组分。测站位置余流与涨潮流方向一致,余流致使涨潮过程中粉砂组分含量所占百分比上升,而落潮过程下降,淤泥组分则相反。     

Velocity profiles in a salt marsh canopy

Flow velocity profiles, measured in aSpartina anglica canopy in a laboratory flume, change with the location of measurement and plant stem density. The shear velocity above the canopy is larger than that within the canopy. The reduction ofu _* within the canopy will favor the deposition of cohesive sediment. The reducedu _* and flow turbulence within the canopy can enhance particle flocculation and settling velocity. The canopy exerts a strong influence on the concentration, settling velocity of the flocs, and deposition rate of the suspended sediment through effects on bed shear stress and turbulence of flow within the canopy.     

粉沙质海岸泥沙运动特性研究

文章对粉沙质海岸的泥沙运动特性进行了系统、全面的研究.从5个方面进行了论述:粉沙质海岸的界定、泥沙基本水力特性、泥沙运移型态、航道骤淤的统计特性和航道淤积计算.提出粉沙质海岸的界定应综合考虑泥沙平均中值粒径、黏土含量和泥沙粒径分选性三方面因素;泥沙基本水力特性是起动流速小、沉降速度大、沉积密实快,泥沙运动十分活跃;泥沙...     

Sediment transport on an estuarine intertidal flat: Measurements and conceptual model of waves, rainfall and exchanges with a tidal creek

Sediment (silt) transport on a wave-dominated estuarine intertidal flat dissected by a tidal creek that connects to the watershed freshwater network is investigated by analysing field data from Waikopua, New Zealand, and by applying simple models. The intention is to expand understanding beyond the case of the idealised, two-dimensional wave-dominated flat. During fairweather (no waves), there is a continuous exchange of silt between the bed of the tidal creek and the upper flat, and that exchange is controlled by the elevation of the flat with respect to the creek bed. Rainfall in the watershed does not fundamentally alter the way the intertidal flat and the creek interact, but it does increase silt loads in the creek, which in turn increases the amount of silt exchanged with the upper flat. Waves on the flat are fetch-limited, and frictional dissipation causes waves to reduce in height at the edge of the water body. Under some circumstances, a frictional-dissipation zone may occupy the entire middle-plus-upper flat. There is a maximum in wave-orbital speed at the bed (U_sigb) in the middle reaches of the flat, which arises from the particular balance between down-fetch wave growth, wave dissipation by bottom friction, and attenuation through the water column of wave-orbital motions under the short-period waves. There is a progressive decoupling of suspended-silt concentration (SSC) from U_sigb moving from the bottom to the top of the flat, such that SSC is highest towards the top of the flat, where U_sigb is virtually zero. We suggest that this is due to wave activity retarding the settling of suspended silt, and explore that idea with a simple model that is capable of reproducing the essential features of the data set. The results are assimilated in a conceptual model of the system, which shows the balances that control net silt transport in the creek and on the different parts of the flat, three different silt sources, and the role of waves and rainfall. The conceptual model also points at the feedbacks between sediment-transport processes and morphology that are inherent in the system. Implications of those feedbacks to long-term morphodynamics are essentially unexplored.     

围海工程对邻近港区泥沙回淤的影响研究—以漳州港招商局中银码头区为例

针对港区附近围海造地造成的港区泥沙回淤量增大问题，以漳州港招商局中银码头区为例，全面分析了漳州港海域的地形地貌、水动力特征、泥沙特性和岸滩自然演变。根据工程建设前后地形变化，结合岸线回填量和九龙江输沙资料，分析了围海造地对岸滩演变及港区码头回淤的影响。研究表明，围海工程实施后，邻近港区的泥沙回淤由自然回淤、滩地抬高和回填引起的浑水回淤三部分组成。当围海工程结束，新岸滩调整达平衡后，泊位及港池的回淤将逐渐降至正常自然回淤强度。     

Grain-size distribution patterns of suspended sediment in response to hydrodynamics on the Dafeng intertidal flat, Jiangsu, China

1Introduction The sediment dynamics of intertidal flats in-volves erosion, transport, and settling processes. A-mong these, the mechanisms of sediment transportare a key question. Progress has been made in awide range of associated areas, including sedime…     

Sand transport under combined current and wave conditions: A semi-unsteady,practical model

For the general purposes of morphodynamic computations in coastal zones, simple formula-based models are usually employed to evaluate sediment transport. Sediment transport rates are computed as a function of the bottom shear stress or the near bed flow velocity and it is generally assumed that the sediment particles react immediately to changes in flow conditions. It has been recognized, through recent laboratory experiments in both rippled and plane bed sheet flow conditions that sediment reacts to the flow in a complex manner, involving non-steady processes resulting from memory and settling/entrainment delay effects. These processes may be important in the cross-shore direction, where sediment transport is mainly caused by the oscillatory motions induced by surface short gravity waves.The aim of the present work is to develop a semi-unsteady, practical model, to predict the total (bed load and suspended load) sediment transport rates in wave or combined wave-current flow conditions that are characteristic of the coastal zone. The unsteady effects are reproduced indirectly by taking into account the delayed settling of sediment particles. The net sediment transport rates are computed from the total bottom shear stress and the model takes into account the velocity and acceleration asymmetries of the waves as they propagate towards the shore.A comparison has been carried out between the computed net sediment transport rates with a large data set of experimental results for different flow conditions (wave-current flows, purely oscillatory flow, skewed waves and steady currents) in different regimes (plane bed and rippled bed) with fine, medium and coarse uniform sand. The numerical results obtained are reasonably accurate within a factor of 2. Based on this analysis, the limits and validity of the present formulation are discussed.     

钱塘江河口细颗粒泥沙絮凝沉降特性研究

钱塘江口河口上游河流和海域来沙多为细颗粒泥沙,粘性细颗粒泥沙由于其特殊的表面电化学性质遇到强电解质海水而产生絮凝沉降,是形成河口淤积的原因之一。影响絮凝的因素很多,除了电解质,还有泥沙粒径的大小、盐度、含沙量、PH值、温度、有机质含量、矿物成分、水流速度及紊动情况等。本文通过粒度分析、静水沉降、动水沉降等各种实验手段分析钱塘江口泥沙的基本特性,找出最佳絮凝盐度以及泥沙不淤流速等值,初步探讨了细颗粒泥沙的絮凝机理,为治理钱塘江口提供科学依据。     

利用坐底观测估算济州岛西南海域再悬浮临界应力

底边界层中沉积物的再悬浮和沉降是控制陆架海悬浮沉积物的输运的关键过程。沉积物输运过程的数值^*模拟也依赖于沉积物侵蚀和沉降的关键参数的研究。本文根据济州岛西南泥质区的坐底观测估算了此处临界应力。通过底边界层声学仪器ADV和PC-ADP的流速和悬浮物浓度同步观测,基于湍生成与耗散平衡假设,使用惯性耗散法计算沉降速度。这种方法得到的沉降速度ws平均值为0.91 mm s^-1,标准差为0.20 mm s^-1,此结果远大于Soulbsy（1997）和LISST-ST现场观测粒径分析仪等经验方法的结果。这主要是由于两种方法的本质不同,惯性耗散法形象的刻画了底边界层的水动力,并且更加合理的现场估计沉降速度w_s,然而Soulsby的方法通常适用于静水环境。我们提出了一种估计临界应力的新方法,根据悬浮颗粒物浓度时空变化的统计分析（深度平均的悬浮颗粒物浓度对时间求导数）和对应的底应力估算侵蚀临界应力τ_ce和沉降临界应力τ_cd。侵蚀临界应力τ_ce和沉降临界应力τ_ce的变化范围为0.11-0.25 Pa,对应的中值分别为0.20 Pa和0.16 Pa,这也证实了侵蚀临界应力略大于沉降临界应力。除此之外,我们还使用了另一种方法估算临界应力,通过沉降速度间接估算的临界应力范围为0.06-0.17 Pa。     

The process of sedimentation on the surface of a salt marsh

An unditched salt marsh-creek drainage basin (Holland Glade Marsh, Lewes, Delaware) has a sedimentation rate of 0·5 cm year^?1. During normal, storm-free conditions, the creek carries negligible amounts of sand and coarse silt. Of the material in the waters flooding the marsh surface, over 80% disappears from the floodwaters within 12 m of the creek. About one-half of the lost material is theoretically too fine to settle, even if flow were not turbulent; however, sediment found on Spartina stems can account for the loss.The quantity of suspended sediment that does reach the back marsh during these normal tides is inadequate to maintain the marsh surface against local sea level rise. This suspended sediment is also much finer than the deposited sediments. Additionally, remote sections of low marsh, sections flooded by only the highest spring tides, have 15–30 cm of highly inorganic marsh muds.This evidence indicates that normal tidal flooding does not produce sedimentation in Holland Glade. Study of the effects of two severe storms, of a frequency of once per year, suggests that such storms can deposit sufficient sediment to maintain the marsh.The actual deposition of fine-grained sediments (fine silt and clay) appears to result primarily from biological trapping rather than from settling. In addition, this study proposes that the total sedimentation on mature marshes results from a balance between tidal and storm sedimentation. Storms will control sediment supply and movement on micro- and meso-tidal marshes, and will have less influence on macro-tidal marshes.     

Sediment concentrations,flow conditions,and downstream evolution of two turbidity currents,Monterey Canyon,USA

The capacity of turbidity currents to carry sand and coarser sediment from shallow to deep regions in the submarine environment has attracted the attention of researchers from different disciplines. Yet not only are field measurements of oceanic turbidity currents a rare achievement, but also the data that have been collected consist mostly of velocity records with very limited or no suspended sediment concentration or grain size distribution data. This work focuses on two turbidity currents measured in Monterey Canyon in 2002 with emphasis on suspended sediment from unique samples collected within the body of these currents. It is shown that concentration and grain size of the suspended material, primarily controlled by the source of the gravity flows and their interaction with bed material, play a significant role in shaping the characteristics of the turbidity currents as they travel down the canyon. Before the flows reach their normal or quasi-steady state, which is defined by bed slope, bed roughness, and suspended grain size, they might pass through a preliminary adjustment stage where they are subject to capacity-driven deposition, and release heavy material in excess. Flows composed of fine (silt/clay) sediments tend to be thicker than those with sands. The measured velocity and concentration data confirm that flow patterns differ between the front and body of turbidity currents and that, even after reaching normal state, the flow regime can be radically disrupted by abrupt changes in canyon morphology.     

粉沙质海岸泥沙运动和淤积分析计算

介绍了粉沙质海岸的泥沙运动特点,通过理论分析和水槽试验揭示出粉沙质海岸的泥沙淤积物中悬移质和推移质的比例,并提出粉沙质海岸淤积计算的方法。     

基于第三代浅水波浪模型的海区泥沙骤淤数值预报及工程应用

在简要介绍现有近岸波浪数值模型的基础上,对应用了最新波浪研究成果、适用于海岸、湖泊和河口地区的第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型的研究和应用进行了详细论述。通过该模型数值计算得到黄程山局部区域不同风向的有效波高分布,将模型与海区泥沙骤淤机理相结合,进而得到整个区域平均含沙量的分布,并数值预报近岸区域骤淤量随时间的变化,研究成果可为海区大风浪情况下骤淤预报提供理论指导,本文最后讨论了泥沙骤淤计算模型未来发展的趋势。     

River flooding, storm resuspension, and event stratigraphy on the northern California shelf: observations compared with simulations

Coast-hugging surface flood plumes occur on the inner shelf of northern California during the winter season, generating dense, near-bottom suspensions which may attain fluid mud concentrations as particles settle. The period of storm-heightened waves may continue into the flood period, leading to gravity-driven seaward displacement of the bottom suspension; or the wave regime may ameliorate, leaving the suspension to consolidate as a short-lived, inner-shelf flood bed. Such beds tend to be resuspended within days or weeks by subsequent storm events that may recreate the original high concentrations. The sediment is thus dispersed seaward by gravity flows, to be deposited as a muddy flood bed on the central shelf. The locus of deposition of these “high-concentration regimes” is a function of the relative intensities of river discharge and storm wave height. Greater discharge piles thicker storm beds nearer shore, while intense wave regimes allow deposition of the fluid mud further seaward. During events with high values of both parameters, large amount of fluid mud may bypass over the shelf edge. In contrast, “low-concentration regimes” occur during storm periods when there has been no recent flood deposition on the inner shelf. The shelf floor is better consolidated than in the previous case, and the resulting suspended sediment concentrations are lower. As a consequence, low-concentration regimes are winnowing and bypassing regimes, and the beds deposited are thinner and sandier. Algorithms describing deposition by high and low-concentration regimes have been embedded in a probabilistic model. A simulation of a 400-year sequence of beds deposited by winter storms and floods suggests that on the Eel shelf, the Holocene transgressive systems tract consists of back-stepping, seaward-fining event beds, whose timelines (bedding planes) dip more gently than do their gradational facies boundaries. At these longer time scales, flood beds dominate over storm beds.     

海南岛崖州湾表层沉积物空间分布特征及其受控机制

基于崖州湾海域141个表层沉积物粒度分析数据,研究表层沉积物的粒级组分、粒度参数及其沉积动力环境特征。结果表明,研究区底质类型主要有泥质砂质砾、砾质泥质砂、砂、粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂和粉砂6种,砂质粉砂分布最为广泛;粒径总体趋势表现为自北向南由细变粗再变细的NEE条带状分布特征,分选系数总体偏高,反映了该区复杂的物源和水动力条件。运用Flemming三角图式,结合粒度象、研究区物源、水动力条件及地形特征,将研究区划分为3个沉积环境:近岸主要受控于波浪掀沙和搬运作用,粒径较细,表现为波控沉积特征;中部主要受控于径流、波浪和潮流共同作用,粒径粗,分选差,表现为河口沉积特征;南部主要受控于潮流输沙作用,波浪作用减弱,粒径细,分选相对较好,表现为相对低能的沉积环境。沉积物输移趋势分析显示研究区中西部为一沉积物汇聚中心,近岸侵蚀物质、宁远河输运物质以及外海潮流输运物质均向该处运移。