The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution

In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible.     

Experimental study of wave–wave nonlinear interactions using the wavelet-based bicoherence

The wavelet-based bicoherence, which is a new and powerful tool in the analysis of nonlinear phase coupling, is used to study the nonlinear wave–wave interactions of breaking and non-breaking gravity waves propagating over a sill. Two cases of mechanically generated random waves based on Jonswap spectra are used for this purpose. Values of relative depth, k_ph (k_p is the wave number of the spectral peak and h is the water depth) for this study range between 0.38 and 1.22. The variations of wavelet-based total bicoherence for the test cases indicate that the degree of quadratic phase coupling increases in the shoaling region consistent with a wave profile that is pitched shoreward, relative to a vertical axis as seen in the experiments, but decreases in the de-shoaling region. For the non-breaking case, the degree of quadratic phase coupling continues to increase until waves reach the top of the sill. Breaking waves, however, achieve their highest level of quadratic phase coupling immediately before incipient breaking and the degree of phase coupling decreases sharply following breaking. In addition the wavelet-based bicoherence spectra provide evidence of the harmonics' growth which is reflected in the energy spectra. The bicoherence spectra also show that quadratic phase coupling between modes within the peak frequency as well as between modes of the peak frequency and its higher harmonics are dominant in the shoaling region, even though there are relatively high levels of quadratic phase coupling occurring between other frequencies. Furthermore, using the temporal resolution property of the wavelet-based bicoherence, we find that the quadratic wave interactions occur more readily during segments of time with large change of wave amplitude, rather than those segments having large wave amplitudes, but small gradients in amplitude.     

An experimental study of the relations between bispectra and nonlinear apparent features of wind waves

To investigate the nonlinear properties of wind waves, experiments are carried out in a wind-wave flume with slope bottom at different wind speeds and fetches. Both the internal structure and apparent features of the nonlin-earity of wind waves are studied by using bispectral and statistical analysis of surface elevations. The relations between bispectra and nonlinear apparent characteristics of wind waves are established and confirmed.     

Satellite altimeter observations of nonlinear Rossby eddy–Kuroshio interaction at the Luzon Strait

Satellite altimeter sea level data from 1993 to 2008 are used to analyze the interaction of nonlinear Rossby eddies with the Kuroshio at the Luzon Strait (LS). The sea level anomaly data show that the west Pacific (WP) is a source of nonlinear Rossby eddies, and the South China Sea (SCS) is a sink. The LS serves as a gateway between the two. The scale analysis indicates that eddies with a radius larger than 150 km are strong enough to significantly alter the Kuroshio and are able to modify the local circulation pattern. Statistical analysis indicates that the probability for eddies to penetrate through the Kuroshio may reach at least 60%. A case study of an anticyclonic mesoscale eddy passing through the LS in June–July 2004 indicates that the Kuroshio behaves as an unsteady flow with its stream path frequently modified, in a way of cutting off, meandering and branching during its interaction with the eddy. We therefore suggest that nonlinear Rossby eddies may play a significant role in modification of the local circulation system near the LS and in exchanges of the mass, momentum and energy between the WP and the SCS.     

Numerical simulation for the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water waves

This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory.     

Full-range nonlinear analysis of fatigue behaviors of reinforced concrete structures by finite element method

Ｆｕｌｌ－ｒａｎｇｅｎｏｎｌｉｎｅａｒａｎａｌｙｓｉｓｏｆｆａｔｉｇｕｅｂｅｈａｖｉｏｒｓｏｆｒｅｉｎｆｏｒｃｅｄｃｏｎｃｒｅｔｅｓｔｒｕｃｔｕｒｅｓｂｙｆｉｎｉｔｅｅｌｅｍｅｎｔｍｅｔｈｏｄ￥ＳｏｎｇＹｕｐｕ；ＺｈａｏＳｈｕｎｂｏ；ＷａｎｇＲｕｉｍ...     

Probability distribution of surface slope for nonlinear random sea waves and calculation of whitecap

Ｂａｓｅｄｏｎｔｈｅｎｏｎｌｉｎｅａｒｍｏｄｅｌｏｆｔｗｏ－ｄｉｍｅｎｓｉｏｎａｌｒａｎｄｏｍｓｅａｗａｖｅｓ，ａｓｔａｔｉａｔｉｃａｌｄｉｓｔｒｉｂｕｔｔｔ崳铮睿铮妫鳎幔觯澹螅酰颍妫幔悖澹螅欤铮穑澹澹幔悖簦簦铮簦瑁澹簦瑁椋颍洌铮颍洌澹颍椋螅洌澹颍椋觯澹洌猓酰螅椋睿纾簦瑁澹澹穑幔睿螅椋铮睿铮妫簦瑁澹悖瑁幔颍幔悖簦澹睿螅簦簦椋悖妫酰睿悖簦簦铮睿幔睿洌洌椋颍澹悖簦悖幔欤悖酰欤幔簦椋铮睿螅铮妫澹幔悖瑁铮颍洌澹颍恚铮恚澹睿簦拢幔螅澹洌铮睿簦瑁澹洌椋螅簦颍椋猓酰簦椋铮睿铮妫鳎幔觯澹螅酰颍妫幔悖澹螅欤铮穑澹洌澹颍椋觯澹洌椋睿簦瑁椋螅穑幔穑澹颍幔鳎瑁椋簦澹悖幔穑悖铮觯澹颍幔纾澹恚铮洌澹欤椋螅穑颍铮穑铮螅澹洌猓酰螅椋睿纾簦瑁澹欤椋恚椋簦螅酰颍妫幔悖澹螅欤铮穑澹幔螅幔悖悖椋簦澹颍椋铮睿铮妫鳎幔觯澹猓颍澹幔耄椋睿纾裕瑁澹鳎瑁椋簦澹悖幔穑悖铮觯澹恚纾澹澹穑颍澹螅螅澹洌猓觯簦瑁澹恚铮洌澹欤洌澹穑澹睿螅铮睿簦瑁颍澹澹穑幔颍幔恚澹簦澹颍螅鳎瑁椋悖瑁悖幔睿猓澹洌澹簦澹颍恚椋睿澹洌椋睿穑颍椋睿悖椋穑欤澹猓簦瑁澹欤椋睿澹幔颍鳎幔觯澹螅穑澹悖簦颍酰恚幔睿洌簦瑁颍澹澹耄椋睿洌螅铮妫鳎幔觯澹鳎幔觯澹椋睿簦澹颍幔悖簦椋铮睿     

Comparison of the seven large meanders of the Kuroshio

In this paper, a comparison among the seven large meanders of the Kuroshio is made in order to probe into their similarity and differences. The major results are described as follows.1. Although the three phases for the seven large meanders such as their formations, maturity, as well as decline are very similar to one another, each meander has its own trivial difference in detail.2.The paths of the first six large meanders in the mature phase may be classified into ten types: U1, V1, U2, V2, U1', V1', U2', V2',φ and W.3.The seven large meanders may be grouped into two patterns, i. e. , pattern Ⅰ and pattern Ⅱ. Pattern Ⅰ includes the first and the fourth large meanders, and pattern Ⅱ includes the rest of the above meanders.4. Four standards for identifying the large meanders of the Kuroshio are put forward.     

Numerical modelling of the depth variation and the fluctuation of the thermocline under the effects of wind in the Bohai Sea

In this paper, numerical modelling of the fluctuation of the thermocline in the Bohai Sea has been made using a two-dimensional nonlinear model in stratified ocean and the model for the depth of the thermocline under the effects of wind stirring. The computed results depict the variations of the fluctuation of the thermocline driven by different kinds of wind fields. The fluctuation of the thermocline in the Bohai Sea varies somewhat with different directions, paths and locations of typhoon (cyclone). Under the effects of strong wind, the thermoclines both sink due to mixing and fluctuate. Furthermore, the fluctuation of the thermocline speeds up mixing. At last, the thermoclines disappear after 12-15 h when the strong wind increases from Force 6 to Force 9.     

Estimations of the parameters of the flux of sediments near the west coast of the Bakal’skaya Spit under the conditions of heavy storms in 2007

On the basis of the wind-energy method, we estimate the distributions of the parameters of a longshore flux of sediments formed near the west coast of the Bakal’skaya Spit (in the northwest part of the Crimea) under the conditions of heavy storms whose action caused a significant erosion of the west coast of the spit and retreat of the coastline in January and November 2007. The calculations are carried out by using the actual directions and velocities of the winds recorded in the investigated region. We analyze the trends of changes in the formation of the coastal zone caused by the nonuniform distribution of the intensity of longshore transportation of sediments. In analyzing the causes of formation of gullies in the barrier of the Bakal’skoe Lake and in the narrow distal part of the body of the spit, we make an attempt of interpretation of the quantities characterizing the force of the frontal action of waves. The obtained numerical results are confirmed by the data of field observations.     

Study of evolution forecast of the area of the Huanghe River mouth

From 1979 to 1989, the current Qingshuigou course of the Huanghe River formed a sub - delta which resembles a beak extending into the Laizhou Bay. It covers 618 km2 in area. To meet the needs of developing and constructing the Huanghe River Delta and under the presupposition of keeping the current course for 15-20 a, we forecast mainly by using the OM (1, 1) model that the front border of the sub-delta will be close to 119°30'E and its area will become 923 km2by the end of the year 2000. The Huanghe River will make land 760 km2 in area.     

Probability distribution of surface slope for nonlinear random sea waves and calculation of whitecap coverage

Based on the nonlinear model of two-dimensional random sea waves, a statistical distribution of wave surface slope exact to the third order is derived by using the expansion of the characteristic function and direct calculations of each order moment. Based on the distribution of wave surface slope derived in this paper, a whitecap coverage is proposed by using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking. The whitecap coverage expressed by the model depends on three parameters which can be determined in principle by the linear wave spectrum and three kinds of wave-wave interaction.     

Ecological characteristics of the abundance and distribution of bacteria in the waters nearby the front of the Hangzhou Bay

- Abundance of total bacteria, heterotrophic bacteria, coliform and oil degradable bacteria and their relations with salinity and suspended matter in the frontal waters in the Hangzhou Bay are described. The results obtained show that the highest abundances of total bacteria , heterotrophic bacteria are encountered around the front and near the northern shore of the Hangzhou Bay, where a positive correlation ( r =0. 70) between the total bacteria abundance and the total suspended matter (TSM) is persent. Moreover,the abundance of oil degradable bacteria being an indicator of oil pollution, is also high in that region.     

Manifestation of the non-linearity of the relationship ‘temperature-salinity-density’ in the sub-arctic frontal zone of the Pacific Ocean

The values of the function (T, S) on theT, S straight lines with different angular coefficients have been analysed. It is shown that at the point of contact of theT, S straight lines with the corresponding isopycnals, has a conventional maximum and the density ratio isR=1. It is inferred that a conventional density maximum may occur and that theT, S gradients are compensated at the oceanic fronts separating the sub-arctic and subtropical water structures.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Submergence of the Sublittoral–Bathyal Species into the Abyssal Zone of the Sea of Japan

Oceanology - The bathymetric ranges of the same deep-sea (>2000 m) species in the Sea of Japan and outside it are compared. Among 85 deep-sea species of the Sea of Japan mega- and...     

Abnormality of the monsoon wind in the sea area along the southeastern coast of China and the response of the northern area of the South China Sea during the ENSO events

Variations of monsoon wind field in the sea area along the southeastern coast of China during the ENSO events and its influence on the sea level and sea surface temperature (SST) are explored mainly on the basis of the data of monthly mean wind at 850 hPa and five coastal stations during 1973-1987. The results from the analyses of the data and theoretical estimation show that the southwest wind anomalies appeared in the study area during the events, and northeast wind anomalies occurred in general before the events. With the coastline of the area being parallel basically to the direction of the wind, an Ekman transport will result in an accumulation of the water near the coast or a departure of the water from the coast. As a result , the sea level and SST there will be affected markedly. During the events, southwest wind will intensify in the summer, and northeast wind will weaken in the winter. Their total effect is that a large negative anomaly of the sea level and SST will occur. The estimations indi     

Issues of the Holocene transgression on the southern plain of the Changjiang Delta

The paper deals with the question of Holocene transgression on the southern plain of the Changjiang Delta.At the beginning of the transgression, the paleovalleys of the Changjiang and Qiantang Rivers were covered by sea water at first.The shoreline of 8000-7500 yr BP coincided with the -7m isobath of paleotopography. Sea level had already been the present level about 7000-6500 years ago, and the Holocene transgression reached its maximum extent. During the period, the Changjiang and Qiantang Rivers and the Dongtiaoxi valley were turned into estuaries; the eastern area of Shanghai became a shallow sea; some of the bays and lagoons were distributed on the Hang-Jia-Hu and Tao-Ge Plain; the hilly region around the Taihu Lake was coastal marsh and freshwater swamp. Gangshen on the west of Shanghai was formed 7000-4000 yr BP, and during the last 4000 years, the eastern coastal plain of Shanghai advanced quickly toward the sea, and partial clear land of the western Taihu Lake was enclosed and charged into a fre     

Distribution of Pacific-origin water in the region of the Chukchi Plateau in the Arctic Ocean in the summer of 2003

1Introduction Besidestheprecipitationandriverdischarges,the watersinthePacificOceanandtheAtlanticOceanare thesourcesoftheArcticOceanwater.TheAtlantic waterenterstheArcticOceanviatheFramStraitand theBarentsSea.Foritsdenserfeatureduetohigh salinity,mostofitsinkstothenorthofSvaldbardand circulatesinallthedeepbasinsintheArcticOcean, formingthedeepandbottomwatersoftheArcticO- cean(Aagaardetal.,1985;Rudelsetal.,1999).The BeringStraitistheonlychannelforthePacificwater toflowintotheArcticOce…     

Comparison of Dirichlet–Neumann operator expansions for nonlinear surface gravity waves

The Dirichlet–Neumann operator for the water-wave problem was introduced and expanded by Craig and Sulem [Craig, W., Sulem, C., 1993. [CS] Numerical simulation of gravity waves. J. Comput. Phys. 108, 73–83] and in a slightly different form and for 3D waves by Bateman, Swan and Taylor [Bateman, W.J.D., Swan, C., Taylor, P.H., 2001. [BST] On the efficient numerical simulation of directionally spread surface water waves. J. Comput. Phys. 174, 277–305]. This approach is supposedly superior to techniques derived earlier by West et al. [West, B.J., Brueckner, K.A., Janda, R.S., Milder, D.M., Milton, R.L., 1987. [WW] A new numerical method for surface hydrodynamics. J. Geophys. Res. 92 (C11), 11803–11824] and Dommermuth and Yue [Dommermuth, D.G., Yue, D.K.P., 1987. [DY] A high-order spectral method for the study of nonlinear gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 184, 267–288] under seemingly more restrictive assumptions. This paper extracts the Dirichlet–Neumann operator expansions from West et al. and Dommermuth and Yue. Concerning the operator expansions alone it is found that Bateman et al. is identical to West et al. and Dommermuth and Yue while Craig and Sulem is slightly different due to minor differences in the operator definition. For application to the free-surface boundary conditions West et al. devised a consistent truncation at nonlinear order. This alters the equivalence of the different approaches when it comes to the evaluation of the temporal derivative of the free surface elevation, which is decisive for wave evolution. In this regard Craig and Sulem is found to be identical to West et al. while Bateman et al. is identical to Dommermuth and Yue. Pseudo code is provided for alternative computational schemes in Fourier-space and physical space, respectively, along with a discussion of efficiency and potential flexibility.     

The evolution of rifting on the volcanic margin of the Pelotas Basin and the contextualization of the Paraná–Etendeka LIP in the separation of Gondwana in the South Atlantic

The Pelotas Basin is the classical example of a volcanic passive margin displaying large wedges of seaward-dipping reflectors (SDR). The SDR fill entirely its rifts throughout the basin, characterizing the abundant syn-rift magmatism (133–113 Ma). The Paraná–Etendeka Large Igneous Province (LIP), adjacent to west, constituted the pre-rift magmatism (134–132 Ma). The interpretation of ultra-deep seismic lines showed a very different geology from the adjacent Santos, Campos and Espírito Santo Basins, which constitute examples of magma-poor passive margins. Besides displaying rifts totally filled by volcanic rocks, diverse continental crustal domains were defined in the Pelotas Basin, such as an outer domain, probably constituted by highly stretched and permeated continental igneous crust, and a highly reflective lower crust probably reflecting underplating.The analysis of rifting in this portion of the South Atlantic is based on seismic interpretation and on the distribution of regional linear magnetic anomalies. The lateral accretion of SDR to the east towards the future site of the breakup and the temporal relationship between their rift and sag geometries allows the reconstitution of the evolution of rifting in the basin. Breakup propagated from south to north in three stages (130–127.5; 127.5–125; 125–113 Ma) physically separated by oceanic fracture zones (FZ). The width of the stretched, thinned and heavily intruded continental crust also showed a three-stage increase in the same direction and at the same FZ. Consequently, the Continental-Oceanic Boundary (COB) shows three marked shifts, from west to east, from south to north, resulting into rift to margin segmentation. Rifting also propagated from west to east, in the direction of the final breakup, in each of the three segments defined. The importance of the Paraná–Etendeka LIP upon the overall history of rupturing and breakup of Western Gondwanaland seems to have been restricted in time and in space only to the Pelotas Basin.