Large-amplitude internal Kelvin waves trapped off Split (Middle Adriatic Sea)

The paper documents the occurrence of long-period internal Kelvin waves in Split Channel in spring 2002. The analyses were performed on thermohaline and current data measured at three moorings and one hydrographic section. The internal oscillation had a period of 5–6 days, being larger just after the generation which was probably excited by the alongshore Sirocco wind. The recorded current amplitude was up to 0.3 m s⁻¹ in the surface layer, while the observed pycnocline displacement was 10–15 m. The oscillation was reproduced by one-dimensional two-layered model of a channel, imposing nodal lines at its entrances. Cross-shore properties of the oscillation, such as observed offshore decrease in pycnocline amplitude, are explained by the dynamics of an internal Kelvin wave propagating along channel boundaries, because the internal Rossby radius is smaller than the width of the channel. Conclusively, the observed oscillation probably represents the fundamental mode of internal waves trapped in the channel complex off Split.     

Internal tides and sediment movement on Horizon Guyot,Mid-Pacific Mountains

Internal tidal currents are the likely cause of erosional features such as current ripples, sand waves, and truncated bedding horizons on the sediment cap of Horizon Guyot. Current meter data obtained over a 9 month period in 1983–1984 at about 213 m above the guyot show that the tidal currents are anomalously strong for mid-oceanic depths, probably the result of topographically induced generation of internal tidal waves. An analysis of the initiation of motion of the foraminiferal sand by the internal tidal currents indicates that these currents, particularly during the months of March–May, are likely to transport the surficial sediment and generate the observed bedforms.     

Strengths and weaknesses of the global ocean conveyor: Inter-basin freshwater disparities as the major control

According to the current paradigm of modern climatology and oceanography, the global ocean thermohaline circulation works as the so-called “global ocean salinity conveyor belt” – a system of currents connecting different ocean basins and most notably – the northern North Atlantic and northern North Pacific Oceans – the most distant regions of the world ocean. It is shown here that a slight disparity in freshwater redistribution between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans can be sufficient for building up and maintaining a global conveyor-type ocean thermohaline circulation. On the other hand, relatively small changes in this disparity leading to change in sea surface salinity contrasts between and in the north-south within the northern parts of these two oceans can easily change the conveyor.     

Sand suspension and transport on the Middelkerke Bank (southern North Sea) by storms and tidal currents

Estimates have been made of the suspended sand transport at two sites on the Middelkerke Bank, in the southern North Sea, from suspended sand profiles and current meter measurements over a period of approximately 40 days. Sand resuspension was mainly due to waves while transport was dominated by a few hours when large waves coincided with peak flood currents. Soulsby's relationships for the stress under combined currents and waves were found to be poor predictors for the observed near-bed concentrations; the mean stress, , predicting 45% of the variance while the maximum stress, , predicted just 15%, and overestimate the effects of the waves. When the influence of the stress due to the waves is reduced, the variance explained increases to 67%. The sand transport rate on the steep slope of the bank was 10 times that of the southern end, and was up-slope at 25° to the bank axis, in the direction of the major axis of the tidal ellipse. The transport on the steep slope was mainly in the size range 100–140 μm which did not occur in any significant proportion in samples of the sea bed at that site but was advected from deeper water to the southeast. Excluding this finer component the transport rates of coarser sand (>200 μm) at the two sites were similar over the 40-day period. The up-slope transport during storms suggests that waves play an important part in the bank maintenance and are not simply the mechanism which prevents the continual growth of the sand bank due to asymmetrical transport by the tidal currents alone. The transport rates are consistent with a time-scale of 10²–10³ years for the formation of the Middelkerke Bank.     

Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport

A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a_c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.     

Transient sea-ice polynya forced by oceanic flow variability

In the Weddell Sea during the winters of 1974–1976 a significant opening in the sea-ice cover occurred in the vicinity of a large bathymetric feature — the Maud Rise seamount. The event is commonly referred to as the Weddell Polynya. Aside from such a large-scale, relatively persistent polynya in the Weddell Sea, transient, small-scale polynya can also appear in the sea-ice cover at various times throughout the winter and at various locations with respect to the Maud Rise. The underlying causes for the occurrence of such transient polynya have not been unambiguously identified. We hypothesize that variations in the mean ocean currents are one major contributor to such variability in the sea-ice cover. Analysis of the sea-ice equations with certain idealized patterns of ocean currents serving as forcing is shown to lead to Ekman transports of sea ice favorable to the initiation of transient polynya. Aside from the actual spatial pattern of the idealized ocean currents, many other factors need also be taken into account when looking at such transient polynya. Two other such factors discussed are variations in the sea-ice thickness field and the treatment of the sea-ice rheology. Simulations of a sea-ice model coupled to a dynamical ocean model show that the interaction of (dynamical) oceanic currents with large-scale topographic features, such as the Maud Rise, does lead to the formation of transient polynya, again through Ekman transport effects. This occurs because the seamount has a dynamic impact on the three-dimensional oceanic flow field all the way up through the water column, and hence on the near surface ocean currents that are in physical contact with the sea ice. Further simulations of a sea-ice model coupled to a dynamic ocean model and forced with atmospheric buoyancy fluxes show that transient polynya can be enhanced when atmospheric cooling provides a positive feedback mechanism allowing preferential open-ocean convection to occur. The convection, which takes hold at sites where transient polynya have been initiated by sea-ice–ocean stress interaction, has an enhancing effect arising from the convective access to warmer, deeper waters. To investigate all of these effects in a hierarchical manner we use a primitive equation coupled sea-ice–ocean numerical model configured in a periodic channel domain with specified atmospheric conditions. We show that oceanic flow variability can account for temporal variability in small-scale, transient polynya and thus point to a plausible mechanism for the initiation of large-scale, sustained polynya such as the Weddell Polynya event of the mid 1970s.     

Magnitude and cross-shore distribution of bed return flow measured on natural beaches

Field measurements of cross-shore currents 0.25 m from the bed were made on two natural beaches under a range of incident wave conditions. The results indicated the presence of a relatively strong, offshore-directed mean current, both within and seaward of the surf zone. Typical velocities within the surf zone were of the order of 0.2–0.3 m/s. This bed return flow, or “undertow”, represents a mass conservation response, returning water seaward that was initially transported onshore in the upper water column, primarily above the trough of the incident waves. The measurements demonstrated that the bed return flow velocity increases with the incident wave height. In addition, the crossshore distribution of the bed return flow is characterised by a mid-surf zone maximum, which exhibits a strong decrease in velocity towards the shoreline and a more gradual decay in the offshore direction. Several bed return flow models based on mass continuity were formulated to predict the cross-shore distribution of the bed return flow under an irregular wave field and were compared with the field data. Best agreement was obtained using shallow water linear wave theory, after including the mass transport associated with unbroken waves. The contribution of the unbroken waves enables net offshore-directed bottom currents to persist outside the region of breaking waves, providing a mechanism, other than rip currents, to transport sediment offshore beyond the surf zone.     

Bed load transport on the shoreface by currents and waves

Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m²/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities.     

Structure and kinematics of waters in the region of the Argentine Islands in the autumn of 1998

On the basis of the data of the complex oceanographic experiment carried out in the course of the second Ukrainian Antarctic expedition in March 1998, we study the structure and kinematics of waters in the region of the archipelago of Argentine Islands. The regularities of thermohaline stratification of waters are discovered. We determine the most important environmental parameters premoting the variability of hydrophysical fields on time scales varying from several days up to a week, analyse the data of actual observations over the currents, and estimate the relative contribtions of diurnal and semidiurnal tidal waves to the total dispersion of hydrophysical parameters of the environment. The residual currents are filtered out. We propose a hypothesis about the mechanism of their formation. Various types of tidal currents are revealed and the directions of propagation of diurnal and semidiurnal tidal waves are determined. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Interannual Variations of Sea Level at the Nansei Islands and Volume Transport of the Kuroshio Due to Wind Changes

Interannual variations of sea level at the Nansei Islands and volume transport of the Kuroshio during 1967–95 are calculated by integrating variations carried by windforced Rossby waves. Effects of eddy dissipation and ocean ridges are considered. Ridge effect is inferred by comparing between the calculated and observed sea levels. The calculation is satisfactory to sea levels and Kuroshio transport for the whole period. They are mostly caused by Rossby waves forced by wind and modified by the ridges, and are due to barotropic wave primarily and the first baroclinic wave secondly. The calculated Kuroshio transport well represents variations of several-year scales with maximums in respective duration of the large meander (LM) of the Kuroshio, as well as bi-decadal variation that transport was small during the non-LM period of 1967–75 and large during the LM-dominant period of 1975–91. Mean volume transport of the subtropical gyre is estimated at 57 Sv (1 Sv = 10⁶ m³s^–1) and divided by the Nansei Shoto Ridge into those of the Kuroshio in the East China Sea (25.5 Sv) and a subsurface current east of this ridge (31.5 Sv). The Subtropical Countercurrent and a southward deep current east of the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge are estimated at 16 Sv and 7 Sv, respectively. The calculated transports of the Kuroshio and other subtropical currents reach maximums at every El Niño event due to strong excitement of upwelling barotropic Rossby wave.     

Erosional channel incision and the origin of large sediment waves in Trondheimsfjorden,central Norway

An erosional channel and upslope-climbing sediment waves have been observed in Ytre Orkdalsfjorden and the marine fjord branch Gaulosen off the mouth of Gaula River in Trondheimsfjorden, central Norway. The submarine channel (up to 100–150 m wide and 12 m deep) is interpreted as the pathway of hyperpycnal flows and turbidity currents. It can be traced for 20 km on the seafloor from the mouth of Gaula River down to 500 m of water depth. Based on swath bathymetry and seismic data, the sediment waves are shown to have an accumulated thickness of 50–60 m. They are up to 8 m high, have up to 1-km-long crests, and wavelengths of 100–900 m. The sediment waves are attributed to hyperpycnal flows and turbidity currents overflowing the banks of the channel. Many of the sediment waves were instigated by pre-existing topography created by mass movements since early Holocene times.     

Feeding Strategy of Japanese Sand Lance Larvae in Relation to Ciliated Protozoa in the Vicinity of a Thermohaline Front

Larval feeding and survival strategies are described on a Japanese sand lance, Ammodytes personatus Girard, collected in the vicinity of a thermohaline front in the Ise Bay, in comparison with those of other predominant larvae, Hexagrammos spp. and Sebastiscus marmoratus (Cuvier). First-feeding A. personatus larvae (3.1–3.9 mm NL) fed primarily on tintinnid ciliates, subsequently switching to copepod nauplii (4.0–7.9 mm NL larvae) and post-naupliar copepods (8.0–11.3 mm NL larvae). First-feeding Hexagrammos spp. larvae (6.5–6.9 mm NL) fed primarily on post-naupliar copepods, and first-feeding S. marmoratus larvae (<4.0 mm NL), mostly on copepod nauplii. The different food preferences of these species at first-feeding were related to their different mouth widths (0.15–0.19, 0.52–0.56 and 0.32–0.40 mm, respectively) and/or body size (3.1–3.9, 6.5–6.9 and 3.2–3.9 mm NL, respectively). Ciliate-feeding by first-feeding A. personatus larvae was strongly related to the convergence of the larvae and their prey near the thermohaline front, densities of both being greater on the inshore side of the frontal zone. In conclusion, the aggregation of ciliates near the thermohaline front may have improved feeding conditions and survival of first-feeding A. personatus larvae.     

波生流对海岸污染物输移的影响

通过物理模型实验对海岸波浪作用下污染物运动特性进行了分析,重点分析了质量输移流、沿岸流、沿岸流不稳定运动及破波带内旋涡运动等海岸水动力因素的影响.实验中坡度分别取为1:100和1:40,实验中采用CCD摄像机记录墨水的运动轨迹,同步测量流体质点速度以及波面升高.实验表明,在破碎带外污染物主要受波浪非线性引起的质量输移流的影响;在破碎带内主要受沿岸流的影响,同时还受沿岸流不稳定运动及大尺度旋涡运动的影响.     

Observed Variability of Thermohaline Fields,Currents and Eddies in the Western Bay of Bengal During BOBMEX-99

Field measurements during the Bay of Bengal Monsoon Experiment (BOBMEX-99), data from a deep sea moored buoy, and satellite altimeter were used to describe variability in the hydrographic and meso-scale features in the Bay of Bengal (BoB) during the summer monsoon of 1999. The thermohaline fields showed two regions of upsloping of isopleths centered at 82°E and 84.75°E, ～110 km and 450 km away from the coast, respectively, followed by downsloping. The upsloping/downsloping of isopleths and the alternating currents was part of cyclonic and anti-cyclonic circulation patterns in the western BoB. In this region, both wind and current were important in the dynamics of coastal upwelling. The observations showed a relationship between the propagating waves and eddy on variability of thermohaline fields. On an annual cycle, four Kelvin waves were observed in the BoB, but only the downwelling Kelvin wave formed during October entered the Arabian Sea. During the monsoon season, four eddies were formed in the western BoB, of which the anticyclonic eddy centered at 15°N, 84°E and the cyclonic eddy centered at 17.5°N, 84.5°E were prominent. The baroclinic instability caused by the opposing currents along the east coast and the wind stress curl favored the formation of eddies. Okhubo-Weiss and Isern-Fontanet parameter confirmed the presence of eddies in the BoB.     

Geomorphology, sedimentary processes and development of the Zenisu deep-sea channel, northern Philippine Sea

The Zenisu deep-sea channel originates on the Izu-Ogasawara island arc, and disappears in the Shikoku Basin of the Philippine Sea. The geomorphology, sedimentary processes, and the development of the Zenisu deep-sea channel were investigated on the basis of swath bathymetry, side-scan sonar imagery, submersible observations, and seismic data. The deep-sea channel can be divided into three segments according to the downslope gradient and channel orientation. They are the Zenisu Canyon, the E–W fan channel, and the trough-axis channel. The sediment fill is characterized by turbidite and debrite deposition and blocky–hummocky avalanche deposits on the flanks of the Zenisu Ridge. In the Zenisu Canyon and the Zenisu deep-sea channel, sediment transport by turbidity currents generates sediment waves (dunes) observed during the Shinkai 6500 dive 371. The development of the Zenisu Canyon is controlled by a N–S shear fault, whereas the trough-axis channel is controlled by basin subsidence associated with the Zenisu Ridge. The E–W fan channel was probably affected by the E–W fault and the basement morphology.     

Mesoscale physical processes and zooplankton transport-retention in the northern Norwegian shelf region

Northern Norwegian shelf regions are highly productive, supporting fisheries rich in commercially important species such as cod, herring and capelin. It has been long recognized that the mesoscale jets, meanders and eddies associated with interactions between the North Atlantic Current, Norwegian Coastal Current and regional bottom topographic features such as troughs, banks and shelfbreaks play important roles in transporting and retaining zooplankton. To investigate zooplankton distributions and their correspondence with the physical fields, three large-scale surveys with mesoscale resolutions on physical and biological fields were conducted in northern Norwegian shelf regions between latitudes 68°15′N and 70°15′N in springs of 2000–2002. Survey results provide insights into the relationships between zooplankton distributions and the physical features such as fronts, the Norwegian Coastal Current and eddies related to topographic features. The physical and biological data are integrated and analyzed focusing on water types, estimation of geostrophic currents from direct current measurements, along-shelf transport of zooplankton, and retention of zooplankton by the mesoscale meander–eddy over a typical bank area on the shelf. The estimated mean transport in the upper 100 m on the shelf in the survey region is approximately 6.4×10³ tonnes wet weight day⁻¹ northward. High zooplankton abundances were found over both Malangsgrunnen and Sveinsgrunnen banks. The specific accumulation rate from northward–southward transport in the upper 100 m over Malangsgrunnen was approximately 0.08 day⁻¹, while variable currents with an offshore gradient of zooplankton abundance over Sveinsgrunnen implies an offshore dispersion of coastal-originated zooplankton cohort.     

Seakeeping performance of a containment boom section in random waves and currents

The seakeeping characteristics of various boom geometries in irregular waves and currents are investigated. The response of a floating boom section on the open sea is a function of a number of parameters, such as boom geometry, distribution of mass, buoyancy/weight ratio, and wave and current characteristics. To understand the relationship between these design parameters more clearly, a series of regular and irregular wave tests were conducted with six different 1:4 scale models for three current velocities and six different wave conditions. To simplify the problem, only rigid boom sections consisting of a buoyancy cylinder and vertical skirt were used. In parallel with this experimental program, a numerical model for the responses of two-dimensional floating boom sections in small-amplitude waves is also developed. The numerical results are compared with our large-scale experimental results. The boom effectiveness on the open sea is evaluated based on the concept of “effective draft” and “effective freeboard” assuming that drainage and oversplashing failures are the prime mechanisms of containment failure. Using the present results, a guideline for the optimum design/selection of future booms is developed.     

Sea level response to ENSO along the central California coast: how the 1997–1998 event compares with the historic record

Long-term monthly sea level and sea surface temperature (SST) anomalies from central California show that during winter months, positive anomalies are associated with El Niño events and the negative ones with La Niña events. There is no significant impact on monthly mean anomalies associated with Pacific decadal oscillations, although there is a tendency for more extreme events and greater variance during positive decadal oscillations. The very strong 1997–1998 El Niño was analyzed with respect to the long-term historic record to assess the forcing mechanisms for sea level and SST. Beginning in the spring of 1997, we observed several long-period (>30 days) fluctuations in daily sea level with amplitudes of over 10 cm at San Francisco, California. Fluctuations of poleward long-period alongshore wind stress anomalies (AWSA) are coherent with the sea level anomalies. However, the wind stress cannot entirely account for the observed sea level signals. The sea level fluctuations are also correlated with sea level fluctuations observed further south at Los Angeles and Tumaco, Columbia, which showed a poleward phase propagation of the sea level signal. We suggest that the sea level fluctuations were, to a greater degree, forced by the passage of remotely generated and coastally trapped waves that were generated along the equator and propagated to the north along the west coast of North America. However, both local and remote AWSA can significantly modulate the sea level signals. The arrival of coastally trapped waves began in the spring of 1997, which is earlier than previous strong El Niño events such as the 1982–1983 event.     

An elastic–viscous–plastic sea ice model formulated on Arakawa B and C grids

The elastic–viscous–plastic (EVP) sea ice rheology has been introduced in the large-scale Louvain-la-Neuve sea-Ice Model, version 2 (LIM2), and its performance has been evaluated. Centred difference versions of the rheology have been implemented on both an Arakawa B grid and a C grid, and their performance have been intercompared in coupled simulations with the Nucleus for European Modelling of the Ocean (NEMO) model. Integrations with both implementations lead to fairly similar results which compare well with observations and with previous LIM simulations. The C grid version, however, offers a number of advantages: (a) easier ice coupling with NEMO, which is itself defined on a C grid; (b) possibility of representing ice transport across one-cell-wide straits and passages; (c) better representation of inertial-plastic compressive waves. For these reasons, we recommend the use of the C grid EVP formulation of the ice dynamics in future LIM applications.