Overwash vulnerability assessment based on long-term washover evolution

An integrated methodology for evaluation of overwash vulnerability is developed with respect to the historical washover evolution of a barrier island system. Three different aspects of overwash are addressed in the vulnerability indices developed: overwashed shoreline ratio, maximum overwash intrusion recurrence, and complete barrier overwash. The indices were applied to the barriers in the Ria Formosa system in Southern Portugal using an aerial photography catalogue covering the period 1947–2001. Historical trends of washover evolution were observed to be different between the barriers analysed, but generally, there was a decrease in washover number and dimensions throughout the analysed period. The final overwash diagnostic obtained allowed an integrated overwash vulnerability rating to be defined for each barrier, with vulnerabilities ranging from low to extreme. The methodology has produced results that may assist coastal managers with information concerning barrier island system overwash hazard, define the temporal and geographical distributions of overwash, and provide indications as to where overwash is most likely to occur in the future.     

Investigation of large-scale washover of a small barrier system on the southeast Australian coast using ground penetrating radar

Prehistoric depositional signatures for large-scale washover involving marine inundation events such as storms and tsunami have been the subject of considerable research over the last 15 years. Much of this research has focused on the identification of sandsheets in back-barrier environments as depositional records for extreme washover events. All these deposits must have a sediment source and, by their nature, the most likely source of sediment for washover into back-barrier environments is the barrier itself. This study identifies an erosional signature for large-scale washover from a small coastal barrier on the southeast Australian coast. A distinct lens of marine sand, up to 90 cm thick, confined vertically by peat, is found in the upper fill of a closed freshwater back-barrier lagoon sequence. This sand lens is attributed to a large-scale washover event during the last 800 years, and was possibly deposited by a tsunami. The hypothesis for this study was that any event that breached the dune system must have caused considerable geomorphic change to the dunes and hence may have left an erosional signature. Ground penetrating radar transects of the system show an erosional contact between a series of truncated pre-event dunes and several small overlying post-event dunes. This study outlines a relatively simple non-invasive method for the identification of an erosional signature for prehistoric large-scale washovers caused by storm surge, exceptionally large waves, or tsunami.     

Bedform and stratification characteristics of some modern small-scale washover sand bodies

Washover sand bodies commonly develop along microtidal coastlines in beach/barrier island or spit settings. Wave runup, usually in conjunction with an abnormally high water level, may overtop the most landward berm of the beach and the foredune crest, if one exists, to produce overwash and subsequent runoff across the more landward subaerial surface. Two main elements of the resulting deposit are the washover fan and runoff channel. Newly formed, small-scale washover deposits were examined along the Outer Banks, North Carolina, near Pt Mugu, California, and at Presque Isle (Lake Erie), Pennsylvania. The fans were formed in response to unidirectional landward transport, and the runoff channels in response to unidirectional flow usually in a landward direction, but sometimes in shore-parallel then seaward direction. Where overwash carried across the fan surface and entered a pond or lagoon, a small-scale delta (microdelta) developed. In this case, the washover fan consisted of two subfacies, the wetted, but ‘subaerial’ part of the fan and the subaqueous washover delta. Flow associated with the development of the fan and runoff channel produced distinctive sets of bedforms and internal stratification. High velocity discontinuous surges moving across the fan surface resulted in the development of a plane bed and subhorizontal to low-angle (landward dipping) planar stratification which comprised the major part of the fan. Similarly, rhomboid forms were produced by high velocity sheet flow across the fan surface. Where flow carried into a standing body of water, delta-type foreset strata developed. For this case, the lateral structural sequence was subhorizontal, planar stratification merging landward into landward dipping, delta (tabular) foreset strata. In the runoff setting, where flow became channelized and continuous, both upper-flow and lower-flow regime currents were typical. Upper-flow regime bedforms included antidunes, standing waves, and plane beds. The most commonly observed lower-flow regime bedforms included microdelta-like bars, low-amplitude bars, linguoid ripples, and sinuous-crested current ripple trains. The sets of sedimentary structures comprising modern washover sand bodies provide criteria for the identification of similar deposits in ancient sediments and for more specific interpretation of the environment.     

The effects of Holocene barrier-island evolution on water-table elevations, Hatteras Island, North Carolina, USA

 On Hatteras Island, North Carolina, USA, complex stratigraphy results from surficial sediments being superimposed on an inherited Pleistocene platform. Numerical simulations used to simulate water-table profiles on the island illustrate the influence that the complex stratigraphy has on water-table elevations. Field data consist of water-table profiles collected from a cross-island transect of wells. These profiles show unusually high water-table elevations in the south-central portion of Hatteras Island. Geophysical data are used to constrain the subsurface stratigraphy. Simple analytical solutions to the groundwater flow equation using laterally varying recharge rates cannot match mean water-table profiles. More complex numerical simulations, which do match the profiles, indicate that the elevated water levels result from a low-permeability unit that extends several kilometers along the longitudinal axis of the island. Island geomorphology and ground-penetrating radar (GPR) data suggest that this unit is a former interdunal wetland that has been buried by a series of parabolic dunes. Received, September 1999 / Revised, March 2000 / Accepted, March 2000     

海南岛东南部海岸砂丘风暴冲越沉积记录

通过海南岛东南部海岸详细的古风暴学考察,在尖岭海岸发现了含有风暴冲越沉积物的海岸沙丘剖面,分别命名为JL-1和JL-2剖面,试图从海岸沙丘沉积记录中提取历史上的风暴事件信息。沉积物粒度、磁化率等参数的指标分析表明,这两个剖面含有典型的风暴冲越沉积物,利用放射性核素AMS14C测年、OSL测年分析,并结合历史文献记载,确定这些风暴沉积层是多次台风作用的产物,其形成机制与风暴浪越过海岸沙丘的堆积有关,风暴流越过沙丘顶部后不能回流,导致风暴流携带的沉积物迅速沉积。此外,依据Stockdon经验公式计算结果,该地点沉积记录所代表的最大风暴事件相当于100到200年一遇的重现期。研究表明,该处海岸沙丘冲越沉积含有南海台风强度与重现期的重要信息。     

Vegetative physiographic analysis of a U.S. northern barrier system

A quantitative analysis of historical aerial photographs and maps coupled with detailed field surveys provided the data necessary to assess the importance of overwash processes and vegetative recovery on Nauset Spit, Cape Cod, Massachusetts Development of all plant communities and physiographic features is extremely rapid on the spit. Dunes are evident from aerial photographic analysis in as little as three years after overwash; salt marshes are apparent in only ten years. Classical ecological succession does not appear to occur on Nauset Spit, since environments are periodically altered by overwash processes. Most dominant species on the barrier can grow in bare sandy substrate. Migration of the Nauset Spit, system proceeds by a cyclic series of events, involving inlet dynamics, overwash processes, and dune building     

Hurricane Overwash and Decadal-Scale Evolution of a Narrowing Barrier Island,Ocracoke Island,NC

Barrier islands are found around the world and are important environmentally and economically. With accelerated sea level rise and relentless storms, their evolution is complex but important to understand, especially from a coastal planning and managing perspective. In this study, shoreline change estimates from aerial photography (1949, 1974, 2006), sedimentological and stratigraphic investigation, and analysis of geomorphic character were used to evaluate the hurricane response and decadal evolution of Ocracoke Island, NC. Between 1949 and 2006, the majority (>?65% of transects) of the entire island eroded at an average rate of ??0.54 m/year. Cross-island width decreased by as much as 40% (180 m) over the period. Hurricane Isabel (2003) represented up to 23% of the long-term net change in some regions of the island. The rate of narrowing of Ocracoke Island appears to have increased in the last half century and is due to a combination of natural and anthropogenic factors. Isabel overwashed a total of 9% of the island based on aerial photographic analysis with an average deposit thickness of 0.24 m based on trench investigation. Assessment with the Storm Impact Scale showed a direct relationship between overwash and the pre-existing dune conditions, which had been affected by long-term erosion. Sedimentological signatures interpreted from cores show up to four distinct stacked overwash deposits, potentially dating back as far as 1944. This multi-pronged analysis shows the complexity of barrier island evolution and highlights the necessity to examine and model a system response in four dimensions (i.e., spatially and with time).     

Freshwater reserves of mid-atlantic coast barrier Islands

A multiple regression model was constructed for the purpose of predicting barrier island hydrology from easily measureable island characteristics. The model was developed using data obtained from 17 sites on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. The accuracy of the model for predicting key hydrologic variables was evaluated by statistical and graphic procedures. In general, agreement between observed and predicted values of the hydrologic variables was very good, suggesting that the quantity of potable water at various island sites can be estimated without resorting to extensive field investigations. The model was then applied to Assateague Island, a barrier island located off the coasts of Maryland and Virginia. Results indicate that the original model developed for the Outer Banks may be applied to other barrier islands but that errors involved may necessitate corrections in detailed studies. Correction for bias in predictions for Assateague was shown to be possible with limited field data from surface resistivity surveys.     

Holocene coastal uplift in the western Pacific Rim in the context of late Quaternary uplift

This paper reviews recent studies of Holocene coastal uplift in tectonically active areas near the plate boundaries of the western Pacific Rim. Emergent Holocene terraces exist along the coast of North Island of New Zealand, the Huon Peninsula of Papua New Guinea, the Japanese Islands, and Taiwan. These terraces have several features in common. All comprise series of subdivided terraces. The highest terrace is a constructional terrace, underlain by estuarine or marine deposits, and the lower terraces are erosional, cutting into transgressive deposits or bedrock. The highest terrace records the culmination of Holocene sea-level rise at ca. 6–6.5 ka BP. Lower terraces were coseismically uplifted. Repeated major earthquakes have usually occurred at ka intervals and meter-scale uplift. The maximum uplift rate and number of terraces are surprisingly similar, about 4 m/ka and seven to four major steps in North Island, Huon Peninsula, and Japan. Taiwan, especially along the east coast of the Coastal Range, is different, reaching a maximum uplift rate of 15 m/ka with 10 subdivided steps. They record a very rapid uplift. Comparison between short-term (Holocene) and long-term since the last interglacial maximum (sub-stage 5e) uplift rates demonstrates that a steady uplift rate (Huon Peninsula) or accelerated uplift toward the present (several areas of Japan and North Island) has continued at least since isotope sub-stage 5e. Rapid uplift in eastern Taiwan probably started only in the early Holocene, judging from the absence of any older marine terraces. Most of the causative faults for the coastal uplift may be offshore reverse faults, branched from the main plate boundary fault, but some of them are onshore faults, which deformed progressively with time.     

Erosional and depositional characteristics of regional overwash deposits caused by multiple hurricanes

Regional-scale washover deposits along the Florida Gulf and Atlantic coasts induced by multiple hurricanes in 2004 and 2005 were studied through coring, trenching, ground-penetrating radar imaging, aerial photography, and prestorm and poststorm beach-profile surveys. Erosional and depositional characteristics in different barrier-island sub-environments, including dune field, interior wetland and back-barrier bay were examined. Over the eroded dune fields, the washover deposits are characterized by an extensive horizontal basal erosional surface truncating the old dune deposits and horizontal to slightly landward-dipping stratification. Over the marshes in the barrier-island interior, the washover deposits are characterized by steep tabular bedding, with no erosion at the bottom. Overwash into the back-barrier bay produced the thickest deposits characterized by steep, prograding sigmoidal bedding. No significant erosional feature was observed at the bottom. Washover deposits within the dense interior mangrove swamp demonstrate both normal and reversed graded bedding. The washover deposits caused by hurricanes Frances (2004) and Jeanne (2004) along the southern Florida Atlantic coast barrier islands are substantially different from those along the northern Florida barrier islands caused by Ivan (2004) and Dennis (2005) in terms of regional extension, erosional features and sedimentary structures. These differences are controlled by different overall barrier-island morphology, vegetation type and density, and sediment properties. The homogeneity of sediment along the northern Florida coast makes distinguishing between washover deposits from Ivan and Dennis difficult. In contrast, along the Atlantic coast barrier islands, the two overwash events, as demonstrated by two phases of graded bedding of the bimodal sediments, are easily distinguishable.     

Recent vertical crustal movements from precise leveling surveys in the Blue Ridge and Piedmont Provinces, North Carolina and Georgia

Examination of two lines of repeated leveling in North Carolina and Georgia reveals

1. (1) apparent uplift at the Blue Ridge-Piedmont physiographic boundary (the AtlanticGulf drainage divide) relative to the Atlantic Coastal Plain on the east and the Valley and Ridge province to the west; and

2. (2) large tilts over short baselines superimposed upon the regional pattern in the vicinity of the nearby Blue Ridge—Piedmont geologic boundary (the Brevard fault zone). In the North Carolina profile a very pronounced correlation between topography and movement suggests possible systematic leveling error, but the observed movements appear to be larger than those normally attributed to leveling error. Thus, either refraction or rod errors are larger than expected, or the movement is real and strongly correlates with topography along this portion of the leveling line.

Anomalously high stream-gradients over both resistant and nonresistant lithologies are found around the drainage divide in North Carolina, and may be associated with the relative uplift inferred from releveling. The drainage divide in Georgia, also characterized by relative uplift on the movement profile, approximately separates two different types of stream patterns. In both cases evidence presented here suggests that stream morphology may be responding to contemporary deformation as implied by the observed elevation changes. The relative uplift in North Carolina also correlates with a positive Bouguer gravity anomaly of 30–40 mGal in the midst of the regional Blue Ridge gravity low, although the significance of the correlation is unclear.The close spatial correspondence between the zone of maximum uplift and the drainage divide suggests that the vertical movements and geomorphic anomalies may result from the same mechanism, although the nature of such is unclear. One possible mechanism could be displacement at depth along the nearby Brevard zone. However, on the basis of dislocation modeling it appears that the geodetic observations cannot be adequately explained by surface deformation associated with any simple models of slip on the Brevard zone.     

Tsunami washover deposits, Tawharanui, New Zealand

Barrier dunes on the northern side of the Tawharanui Peninsula, north of Auckland, New Zealand, appear to have been overtopped by extreme waves that have deposited two large sand washover lobes in a back beach wetland. Present-day storm surges and storm waves are incapable of overtopping the barrier dunes. However, historical data and numerical models indicate tsunamis are amplified by resonance within the adjacent bay and Hauraki Gulf. Further, the location of nearshore reefs in close proximity to the washover lobes suggests that the interaction between tsunamis and the reefs further amplified the waves at those locations. The presence of a distinctive pumice (Loisels Pumice) within the washover deposits suggests that the deposits are associated with a 15th Century eruption from the submarine Mt Healy caldera located northeast of New Zealand.     

Variations in storm response along a microtidal transgressive barrier-island arc

Storm response along the transgressive Chandeleur barrier-island arc southeast of the Mississippi delta plain is variable because of local differences in sediment supply, shoreline orientation and barrier morphology. A study of the morphological impact of Hurricane Frederic (1979) affirmed that tropical storms are the primary agents causing erosion and migration of this barrier arc.Frederic's greatest impact was in the duneless southern Chandeleurs, where sheet-flow overwash caused flattening of the barrier profile, destruction of a strip of marsh 50–100 m wide, and shoreline retreat of approximately 30 m. In contrast, overwash in the northern Chandeleurs was confined between dunes in channels established by previous storms. This channelized overwash breached the northern Chandeleur barriers in nineteen places. As Frederic passed, return flow through these channels transported overwashed sediment back to the nearshore zone. These ebb deposits were a source for longshore drift sediments, which quickly sealed storm channels, reestablishing a coherent northern Chandeleur barrier arc.These storm response patterns may help explain long-term changes in barrier morphology. During an 84-yr period (1885–1969) the southern Chandeleurs decreased 41 % in area, with an average retreat rate of 9.1 m yr^?1, compared to a 15% increase in area and an average shoreline retreat rate of 7.2 m yr^?1 for the northern Chandeleurs.     

Quaternary sea-level events on northern San Clemente Island, California

Global sea-level changes are expressed in the coastal landforms and deposits of northern San Clemente Island. Stratigraphic, radiometric, amino acid, and pedologic dating techniques have allowed the development of a chronology of sea-level changes for about the last 500,000 yr. A uranium-series date on coral of about 127,000 yr for the 2nd terrace serves as a calibration point for amino acid age estimates of four other mapped terraces. Two of these terraces have age estimates of about 80,000–105,000 yr, another has an age estimate of about 127,000 yr, and the 5th terrace on the west side of the island is estimated to be about 415,000–575,000 yr old. These dates correlate reasonably well with marine terraces dated elsewhere and with stages of the oxygen-isotope record that are thought to represent high stands of the sea. Weakly cemented calcareous dune sands (eolianites) are moderately extensive on northern San Clemente Island and appear to represent low stands of the sea, since calcareous shelf sands were the most likely source. A radiocarbon date of about 22,000 yr suggests that the youngest eolianite was deposited during the last glacial maximum. An older eolianite is estimated to be about 140,000–195,000 yr old based on stratigraphic relations and degree of soil development. The suggested ages for the eolianites also correlate well with oxygen-isotope estimates of low sea levels.     

Comparative Hydrodynamics during Events along a Barrier Island: Explanation for Overwash

A fairly undeveloped barrier island along the mid-Atlantic coast, Onslow Beach, was exposed to two differing, yet sequential meteorological events in the fall of 2008. The response of the barrier island differed significantly enough to warrant investigation into the causes of aberrant overwash locations. Tropical Storm Hanna generated high significant wave heights for a short period of time and caused overwash events along the southern portion of Onslow Beach. The Nor’easter and subsequent wind shift after TS Hanna generated significant wave heights that were lower than during TS Hanna, yet more locations of overwash were recorded along the beach. Data from NOAA wave buoys and a nearshore deployed AWAC were analyzed to understand the underlying physics behind the recorded differences in barrier island response. These data were also used to validate a coupled hydrodynamic (ADCIRC) and waves (SWAN) model to investigate the alongshore variability. Low frequency variability, on the order of days, and tidal timing of shoreward high significant wave heights contributed to the recorded variability.     

A 1900‐year paleohurricane record from Wassaw Island,Georgia, USA

We present here the first paleotempestology record from Wassaw Island on the Georgia Bight, located in the south Atlantic coast of the United States. In the historical period, the Georgia Bight has experienced less frequent hits by hurricanes than other locations along the US Gulf and Atlantic coasts. The 1900‐year record inferred from the overwash sand layers from a back‐barrier marsh on Wassaw Island suggests that the island was directly struck by major storms on nine occasions during this interval. The Wassaw Island record shows alternating regimes, with periods of increased activity from >2000 a BP until ～1100 a BP, and ～100 a BP until the present, sandwiching a quiet period from ～1100 to 250 a BP. Storm deposits from the most recent active period are perhaps amalgamated, indicating that site‐specific conditions may result in event undercounting and suggests that the relative thickness of sand layers in the sedimentary record is not always indicative of hurricane strength. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The role of overwash in the evolution of mixing zone morphology within barrier islands

Overwash is a major controlling factor in the morphology of the mixing zone of coastal aquifers. Conceptual models of the mixing zone describe an interface controlled by tidal oscillations, wave run-up, and other factors; however, few describe the influence of large storm events. In August 1993, Hatteras Island, North Carolina, USA, experienced a 3-m storm surge due to Hurricane Emily. Sound-side flooding infiltrated a wellfield, causing a dramatic increase in TDS levels that persisted for more than 3 years. Two-dimensional simulations with SUTRA, the USGS finite-element model, are calibrated to the TDS breakthrough data of this storm to infer model dispersivity values. Simulations using the calibrated dispersivity values, predicted flooding levels, and 54 years of hurricane records to determine the influence of the overwash events suggest that it is rare for the mixing zone to approximate the conceptual morphology. Even during quiescent periods such as between 1965 and 1975, TDS levels do not return to theoretical levels before being elevated by a subsequent storm event. Thus, while tidal oscillations and other factors are important to mixing zone development, basic wind events and more severe storm events may have more influence and lasting effect on the morphology of the mixing zone.     

DEM-based morphometry of large-scale sand dune patterns in the Grand Erg Oriental (Northern Sahara Desert,Africa)

Formerly, sand dune patterns were investigated mostly by aerial and satellite images, but more recently, geomorphometric analysis based on digital elevation models (DEMs) has become an important approach. In this paper, sand dune patterns of the Grand Erg Oriental (Sahara) are studied using the De Ferranti (2014) DEM, which is a blending of SRTM (Shuttle Radar Topography Mission), ASTER (Advanced Spaceborne Thermal Emission and Reflection Radiometer) and other elevation datasets. In the Grand Erg Oriental, there are four large-scale dune pattern types with gradual transitions between them and with several subtypes, namely P1, consisting of large, branching linear dunes; P2, a complex pattern including small-size and widely spaced star and dome dunes; P3, a network type created mostly from crescentic dunes; and finally, P4, consisting of large and closely spaced star dunes. The largest dunes with 90–100-m mean height can be found in the southern parts of the Grand Erg Oriental, where P1 and P4 patterns dominate, and these areas are also characterised by the most intensive sand accumulation with 25–30-m equivalent sand thickness. In the present study, we use regression analysis to investigate the functional relationships between sand dune characteristics. Further on, we have elaborated a DEM-based method to delineate dunes and calculate sand volumes and dune orientations. Comparing wind rose data and sand dune axis rose diagrams, it is concluded that in some parts of the Grand Erg Oriental, the present dune types and patterns are in agreement with the actual wind regime, but in other cases, the present dune patterns are at least partially the results of former wind regimes.     

Conditions favourable for the formation of warm-climate aeolian sand sheets

Aeolian sand sheets are areas of aeolian sand where dunes with slipfaces are generally absent. Sand sheets are ubiquitous to modern, warm-climate sand seas, generally occurring marginal to dune fields, although they may exist within the interior of a sand sea or independent of a dune field. Sand-sheet deposits are recognized in ancient aeolian sequences, where they may account for significant accumulations of low-angle aeolian stratification. We suggest that the occurrence of sand sheets instead of dunes indicates that conditions are outside the range within which dunes form or that one or more factors interfere with dune development while also favouring the accumulation of sand sheets. A study of six modern sand sheets in North America (located at Great Sand Dunes, Gran Desierto, Dumont, Algodones, Padre Island, and Colorado River delta) indicates that the factors favourable for sand-sheet development are: (1) a high water table, (2) surface cementation or binding, (3) periodic flooding, (4) a significant coarse-grained sediment population, and (5) vegetation. These factors are reflected in the nature of stratification and the accessory features of sand-sheet accumulations within the areas of modern sand sheets as well as in their ancient counterparts in the Triassic Dolores and Pennsylvanian-Permian Rico formations.     

南极乔治王岛末次冰期以来的环境事件

末次冰期以来环境演变事件为末次冰期冰盖扩张事件。南设德兰群岛当时为一相连的大岛,乔冶王岛上的冰川有可能来自南极半岛。全新世冰退模式和冰进事件表现为由统一冰盖分解成三个小冰帽,然后再逐渐消失。现冰川以每年约1.3m的速度后退。冰退之后地壳存在明显的均衡补偿抬升,表现为沿海地区发育了5—6级上升海岸阶地,现地壳以每年6—10mm的速率在抬升。