现代滨岸风暴沉积--以舟山普陀岛、朱家尖岛为例

本文以舟山现代滨岸为例,重点阐述了在8114号和8310号两次强台风作用期间,水动力发生的剧烈变化以及对应的沉积物堆积情况。进而从沉积物粒度变化、沉积构造组合、生物特征和沉积物垂向层序诸方面,探讨了滨岸风暴沙滩的沉积特征,并指出它与浅海风暴沉积的区别。总结了风暴砾滩的沉积特征,并指出绝大多数滨岸砾滩是风暴作用的结果。研究现代风暴沉积目的是为了找到更多的古代风暴沉积,文后介绍了已找到的古代风暴沉积的实例。     

An analysis of beach profile changes subsequent to the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project,Sri Lanka

Man-made coastal structures directly affect sediment balance and sediment dynamics on the surrounding beaches. The Colombo Harbor Expansion Project has created about 5-km-long breakwater nearly perpendicular to the beach. The present study is focused on quantitatively and qualitatively analyzing the effect of the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project on economically important beaches in and around Colombo city area. In this study, the authors measured monthly variations of beach width, beach profile and the mean grain-size of the sediments at mean sea level for complete annual monsoon cycle. Data were analyzed to establish site-specific erosion vulnerability. Monitoring results show that cumulative beach erosion has increased after the construction of the breakwater (rate = 0.7 m/year from May 2000 to April 2011 and rate = 28.2 m/year from April 2011 to June 2012). In addition, the cumulative and site-specific sand accretion and erosion patterns have a clear relationship with the monsoon seasonality. Beaches were narrower during the stormy southwestern monsoon, whereas beaches were wider during fair weather of northeast monsoon and inter-monsoon periods. In contrast, the constructed breakwater obstructs natural longshore sediment dynamics. For example, a significant amount of sediments from the Kelani-Ganga River were buried in the Colombo Harbor due to alteration of prominent longshore sediments transportation on the western coast of Sri Lanka. Therefore, this study shows enhancement of coastal erosion in the studied southern beaches due to a lack of sediment deposition.     

The structure and development of foredunes on a locally prograding coast: insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys, Norfolk, UK

The internal structure of coastal foredunes from three sites along the north Norfolk coast has been investigated using ground‐penetrating radar (GPR), which provides a unique insight into the internal structure of these dunes that cannot be achieved by any other non‐destructive or geophysical technique. Combining geomorphological and geophysical investigations into the structure and morphology of these coastal foredunes has enabled a more accurate determination of their development and evolution. The radar profiles show the internal structures, which include foreslope accretion, trough cut and fill, roll‐over and beach deposits. Foredune ridges contain large sets of low‐angle cross‐stratification from dune foreslope accretion with trough‐shaped structures from cut and fill on the crest and rearslope. Foreslope accretion indicates sand supply from the beach to the foreslope, while troughs on the dune crest and rearslope are attributed to reworking by offshore winds. Bounding surfaces between dunes are clearly resolved and reveal the relative chronology of dune emplacement. Radar sequence boundaries within dunes have been traced below the water‐table passing into beach erosion surfaces. These are believed to result from storm activity, which erodes the upper beach and dunes. In one example, at Brancaster, a dune scarp and erosion surface may be correlated with erosion in the 1950s, possibly the 1953 storm. Results suggest that dune ridge development is intimately linked to changes in the shoreline, with dune development associated with coastal progradation while dunes are eroded during storms and, where beaches are eroding, a stable coast provides more time for dune development, resulting in higher foredune ridges. A model for coastal dune evolution is presented, which illustrates stages of dune development in response to beach evolution and sand supply. In contrast to many other coastal dune fields where the prevailing wind is onshore, on the north Norfolk coast, the prevailing wind is directed along the coast and offshore, which reduces the landward migration of sand dunes.     

山东青岛灵山湾南部海滩的时空演变及其影响因素*

全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,是海滩侵蚀防护的前提;基于卫星图像资源全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,对于缺乏长期连续实测数据的海滩的侵蚀防护具有重要意义。本研究基于谷歌地球引擎合成并下载灵南海滩(灵山湾南部海滩)1984—2021年的880幅卫星图像,聚焦海滩剖面提取干湿线和水边线在剖面上的位置;结合模拟潮位分析海滩剖面形态,计算海滩坡度和平均高、低潮线等,采用多指标研究灵南海滩的时空演变;结合历史资料分析影响灵南海滩演变的主要因素,并利用海滩实测数据评估利用卫星图像提取的海滩岸线的误差。结果表明,大量卫星图像的应用提高了研究结果的时间分辨率、精度和可靠性。在1984—2021年间,灵南海滩部分岸段发生了阶段性快速侵蚀,侵蚀速率为5.2~60 m/a,总侵蚀量达30~78 m,持续时间为0.5~11年,该快速侵蚀主要是挖沙、养殖场改建和废弃等人为因素造成的,风暴潮起次要的辅助作用。除上述快速侵蚀时段外,灵南海滩普遍发生慢速侵蚀,侵蚀速率一般小于2 m/a,这是相对海平面上升和河流入海泥沙锐减等的结果。     

Longshore grain size trends in the Kakinada-Mulapeta Beach,east coast of India

Shore-normal and shore-parallel variations in grain size statistics of beach sand have been studied over a period of one year along the Kakinada-Mulapeta coast. The southern beaches of this coast have been accretionary while the northern ones erosional since 125 years. The grain size gradings, beach and nearshore processes help in identifying (i) the Groins-fishing harbour beach influenced predominantly by the tidal regime. (ii) the Mulapeta-Vakalapudi beach influenced by refracted wave regime and (iii) the Vakalapudi-fishing harbour beach affected by both wave and tidal regimes at relatively subdued levels.     

An approximation to short-term evolution and sediment transport pathways along the littoral of Cadiz Bay (SW Spain)

This work presents the results of a beach-monitoring program carried out in the Bay of Cadiz (SW Spain), which consists of urban, natural and nourished beaches. In the present study, 24 topographic profiles have been monthly monitored during the 1996–1998 period, in order to draw the morphodynamic behavior of this coast and the general characterization of short-term coastal trends. This way, total volumetric budgets have been calculated for each beach profile in order to group beaches in different erosive/accreting sectors. Studied beaches recorded both erosion and accretion: the greatest accretionary trends have been observed at Aguadulce, La Costilla and Rota beaches, with values ranging from 30 to 70 m³/m. The largest erosion episodes have been recorded in the southernmost end of Valdelagrana spit, with values over 50 m³/m, and in Rota and Vistahermosa, after nourishment works. Main erosion and accretion pathways have been related to the existence of natural and human structures, which blocked the longshore drift suggesting the existence of littoral cells.     

Beach erosion under rising sea‐level modulated by coastal geomorphology and sediment availability on carbonate reef‐fringed island coasts

This study addresses gaps in understanding the relative roles of sea‐level change, coastal geomorphology and sediment availability in driving beach erosion at the scale of individual beaches. Patterns of historical shoreline change are examined for spatial relationships to geomorphology and for temporal relationships to late‐Holocene and modern sea‐level change. The study area shoreline on the north‐east coast of Oahu, Hawaii, is characterized by a series of kilometre‐long beaches with repeated headland‐embayed morphology fronted by a carbonate fringing reef. The beaches are the seaward edge of a carbonate sand‐rich coastal strand plain, a common morphological setting in tectonically stable tropical island coasts. Multiple lines of geological evidence indicate that the strand plain prograded atop a fringing reef platform during a period of late‐Holocene sea‐level fall. Analysis of historical shoreline changes indicates an overall trend of erosion (shoreline recession) along headland sections of beach and an overall trend of stable to accreting beaches along adjoining embayed sections. Eighty‐eight per cent of headland beaches eroded over the past century at an average rate of ?0·12 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. In contrast, 56% of embayed beaches accreted at an average rate of 0·04 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. Given over a century of global (and local) sea‐level rise, the data indicate that embayed beaches are showing remarkable resiliency. The pattern of headland beach erosion and stable to accreting embayments suggests a shift from accretion to erosion particular to the headland beaches with the initiation of modern sea‐level rise. These results emphasize the need to account for localized variations in beach erosion related to geomorphology and alongshore sediment transport in attempting to forecast future shoreline change under increasing sea‐level rise.     

Hurricanes 2004: An overview of their characteristics and coastal change

Four hurricanes battered the state of Florida during 2004, the most affecting any state since Texas endured four in 1884. Each of the storms changed the coast differently. Average shoreline change within the right front quadrant of hurricane force winds varied from 1 m of shoreline advance to 20 m of retreat, whereas average sand volume change varied from 11 to 66 m³ m⁻¹ of net loss (erosion). These changes did not scale simply with hurricane intensity as described by the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Scale. The strongest storm of the season, category 4 Hurricane Charley, had the least shoreline retreat. This was likely because of other factors like the storm's rapid forward speed and small size that generated a lower storm surge than expected. Two of the storms, Hurricanes Frances and Jeanne, affected nearly the same area on the Florida east coast just 3 wk apart. The first storm, Frances, although weaker than the second, caused greater shoreline retreat and sand volume erosion. As a consequence, Hurricane Frances may have stripped away protective beach and exposed dunes to direct wave attack during Jeanne, although there was significant dune erosion during both storms. The maximum shoreline change for all four hurricanes occurred during Ivan on the coasts of eastern Alabama and the Florida Panhandle. The net volume change across a barrier island within the Ivan impact zone approached zero because of massive overwash that approximately balanced erosion of the beach. These data from the 2004 hurricane season will prove useful in developing new ways to scale and predict coastal-change effects during hurricanes.     

Evaluation of criteria for predicting erosion and accretion on an estuarine sand beach, Delaware Bay, Jew Jersey

Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the performance of four criteria that predict beach erosion and accretion due to wave-induced cross-shore sediment movement (Dean 1973; Sunamura and Horikawa 1974; Hattori and Kawamata 1980; Kraus et al. 1991). Each criterion defines a relation, between a wave and sediment parameter, and includes a coefficient that discriminates beach erosion and accretion events. Relations, based on small-scale laboratory and field data, were evaluated for predicting erosion or accretion at the study site. Significant wave heights at the study site, monitored near high water, ranged from 0.08 to 0.52 m with periods of 2.4 to 12.8 s. Median grain sizes of sediments on the beach foreshore, gathered at low water, ranged from 0.33 to 0.73 mm. All four criteria showed a clustering of erosion and accretion events. Relations derived from small-scale laboratory data were better predictors of erosion on the profile at the field site than those derived from field data gathered on exposed ocean environments. The planar profile and dominance of incident waves of low height and short period are similar to laboratory conditions characterized by initial planar beach slopes and monochromatic waves. Decreasing the value of the empirical coefficient to account for the differences in the magnitude of wave energy and grain size increases the performance of the criteria tested to predict erosion of the profile.     

Significance of nearshore wave parameters in identifying vulnerable zones during storm and normal conditions along Visakhapatnam coast,India

The nearshore parameters, viz., wave runup, wave setup, and wave energy have been estimated during storm and normal conditions of SW monsoon (June–September) and NE monsoon (November–February) by empirical parameterization along Visakhapatnam coast. These results were compared with the field observations during three storms of SW monsoon season in the year 2007. The higher nearshore wave energies were observed at R.K. Beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar beach during both the seasons. During storm events, the higher wave energies associated with higher wave runups cause severe erosion along the wave convergence zones. The storm wave runups (SWRUs) were higher at R.K. Beach, Palm beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar Beach. The yearly low wave energy was observed at Lawson’s Bay with lowest wave runup, considered as safest zone. R.K. Beach, Palm beach, and Jodugullapalem beach are identified as vulnerable zones of wave attack. It is noteworthy that in addition to wave energies, wave runups and wave setups also play a vital role in endangering the coast.     

Huayanpeng boulder beach of Putuo Island, southeast coast of China: characteristics and explanation

Huayanpeng boulder beach is located at the Cape of Putuo Island, southeast coast of China. From 6000 years ago, sea level changed little and turned steady, which was prone to forming the boulder beach. Since then, numerous storm surges propagated from the West Pacific Ocean have imposed on the bedrock of the eastern coast of Putuo Island, resulting in a large amount of rocks fallen from the hill-slope onto the beach. The similarity of rock lithology between the bedrock and the boulders of the study area supports the hypothesis of Holocene steady sea-level controls on the formation of the beach. Long-term littoral currents, including storm weather and normal weather conditions, have greatly sorted the boulder beach vertically and transversely. From east to west, the beach turns wider and gradient becomes gentler, and the boulders reduce its size, from, on average, 1.0 m to 0.5 m, with a decrease in flattening and an increase in sphericity and psephicity. The sizes of the boulders and flattening turn bigger from supra-littoral to inter-littoral zone, while sphericity and psephicity turn smaller and lower. These basal characteristics of boulders highlight the linkage of beach formation to the high-storm energy propagated from the open seas during the typhoon season.     

International viewpoint and news

The investigations were carried out in order to evaluate change of the beaches profile during the period 1993–2008 and to elucidate main trends of the coastal dynamics. Morphometric indicators (beach width, height and inclination) were measured every year during the period 1993–2008 in 70 measuring stations located along the coastline. It was determined that the dynamic shoreline of the mainland during 1993–2008 receded by 10.2 m and the dynamic shoreline of the Curonian Spit advanced into the sea by 8.3 m. The different morphometric beach indicators changed to varying extents over the period 1993–2008, but comparison of values for 1993 and 2008 showed that those changes were small. The average beach width increased by 1.2 m on the mainland coast and by 0.5 m on the Curonian Spit coast. The average beach height also increased negligibly: by 0.5 m on the mainland coast and by 0.1 m on the Curonian Spit coast. The average beach slope inclination increased by 0.012 (from 0.065 to 0.077) on the mainland coast and by 0.005 (from 0.073 to 0.078) on the Curonian Spit coast. The measurements show that, despite being the most dynamic elements in the coastal system, these beaches managed to retain their morphometric indicators almost unchanged during the period of observation.     

Intra-shoreface erosion in response to rapid sea-level fall: depositional record of a tectonically uplifted strand plain, Pacific coast of Japan

This study documents lowering of the surf zone (i.e. the upper shoreface) leading to intra-shoreface erosion, following two rapid relative sea-level falls along a tectonically uplifted coast during the Holocene, and the characteristics of the resultant prograding shoreface deposits. These findings are based on high-resolution analysis and radiocarbon dating of three new drill cores obtained from the Kujukuri strand plain, Pacific coast of eastern Japan, combined with previously published borehole data and information on modern shoreline profile adjustments. A shallowing-upward sandy succession composed of lower and upper shoreface facies, foreshore and backshore facies was recognized in the drill cores. Two rapid falls in relative sea-level at 2·3 to 2·6 and 1·8 to 2·0 ka are recorded by downstepping of the base of the foreshore facies, and farther seawards by the lowering of an erosional boundary between the upper and lower shoreface facies. Superimposed bed profiles of an adjacent modern beach define an envelope, the base of which reflects shore-normal migration of longshore bars and troughs. The base of the envelope represents an erosional surface that divides the surface mobile layer above from preserved deposits beneath. The surface is concave upwards and steeper than the mean beach profile, and exhibits a flat platform approximately at the lower limit of the upper shoreface equating to the storm surf zone. The seaward transition of this surface, rather than the mean equilibrium profile, controls the metre-scale to decimetre-scale internal structure of the Kujukuri shoreface deposits. Depositional models for sea-level fall based on an exponential equilibrium profile do not adequately account for the presence and migration of longshore bars and troughs.     

Coastal erosion in Shandong of China: status and protection challenges

Shandong has more than 70% of natural coasts are under erosion. Coastal erosion started from the 1970’s and became a very serious problem at 1990’s. The dramatic decrease of sediment supplies from rivers caused rapid erosion at the delta and estuary areas, especially in the abandoned Yellow River Delta. Most sandy coasts along the Peninsula were eroded due to lack of sand supply and interruption of alongshore sediment drift, sand dredging from the beach or the offshore area caused serious erosion during short time. Sea-level rise causes slow but constant shoreline retreats and became a more serious threat. Different types of hard solutions for coastal protection against erosion were used in Shandong. Seawalls are most widely used, especially at the Yellow River Delta and city center waterfront. Groynes, jetties and breakwater are used on the north and east sandy coast of the Peninsula. Hard approaches are effective to protect the coast erosion but not change the erosion causes and led secondary impact on the coast. Soft engineering solution or the combined solutions are taken into acts. Beach nourishment is mostly considered as the better soft solution, especially to those tourists attracting sandy beaches along the Shandong coast. Long term monitoring and continuous lessons learning from the coastal erosion management will be adaptive for better coast solution in the future.     

Public perceptions on coastal erosion in the Maltese Islands: a case study of St George’s Bay (St Julians) and Pretty Bay (Birżebbuġa)

With 60% of the world’s population living within the coastal zone, coastal erosion is considered as a global problem. The coasts of the Maltese Islands hold a variety of formations resulting from coastal erosion. Beach nourishment is one of the protective measures taken against coastal erosion. This paper focuses on two of the nourished beaches within the Maltese Islands, St George’s Bay (St Julians) and Pretty Bay (Birżebbuġa), that have undergone extensive sand augmentation during the past decades and looks at the extent of how coastal erosion and beach replenishment may have influenced public perception. Through a triangulation of interviews, it seeks to understand the views of beach users, researchers, representatives, and beach managers. It presents divergences in interviewee opinions and ideas on St George’s Bay and Pretty Bay and illustrates that public perception tends to reflect the type of urban area surrounding each replenished beach. Recommendations and suggestions are also presented to promote awareness towards coastal processes and their impacts.

     

Compositional variations and morphological evolution in platinum beach placers, southern New Zealand

Morphologies of placer platinum group minerals (PGM) are more variable and resistant to modification during transport than placer gold grains. This study documents morphological evolution of PGM placer grains during up to 120 km of transport in beach placers after river transport from inferred sources up to 200 km inland. PGM morphological changes are calibrated with changes in morphology of associated placer gold. Most of the PGM are Pt-Fe alloy and have been fed into the beach placer system from a large river at the western end of the beaches on the south coast of New Zealand. The incoming fluvial PGM suite includes Os, Ir and Ru alloys which may have been derived from distal ophiolitic sources. More proximal sources have Ural-Alaskan affinities and these contributed cooperite and braggite, or sperrylite, locally, as well as Pt-Fe alloy grains. Some PGM may have been recycled through Cretaceous-Quaternary fluvial sediments before entering the modern placer system. Recycled placer PGM grains have also been derived from elevated Quaternary beaches near the coastline. PGM grains entering beach placers have rough surfaces, with remnants of crystal faces, and these evolve to smooth flakes with progressive long-shore transport. PGM flakes have slightly thickened rims caused by impacts by saltating sand on windy beaches, and the most distal beach placers contain flakes with incipient toroidal shapes. These PGM incipient toroids are poorly developed compared to accompanying well-formed toroidal gold that has developed in nearly all beach placers, including those on elevated Quaternary beaches. Typical PGM and gold placer grain size decreases with increasing distance of transport, from fluvial grain size of 400–1,000 to ～200 microns on the most distal beaches, accompanied by eastward loss of equant PGM grains and associated increase in proportion of flakes. Although net transport distance is ～120 km in the beach placer complex, frequent aeolian transport of grains from beach to dunes and subsequent recycling by storm surges substantially increased total transport distance in a dynamic windy tectonic environment.     

海南岛三亚湾海滩研究*

海南岛三亚湾及其周边海滩可分为两种主要类型:一类是岩礁海岸海滩,发育于基岩和珊瑚礁岛波影区或珊瑚礁平台后侧,多为背叠式砂砾滩,滩窄、坡陡,具有数道陡坎,在岛礁背风侧常发育不同阶段的连岛坝,如白排人工岛西南端海滩、鹿回头湾大洲后侧及对岸的海滩、鹿回头湾和小东海海滩;另一类是沙坝海岸海滩,发育于向外海敞开的大沙坝的向海侧,海湾内砂质沉积物丰富,形成滩脊式或背叠式砂质滩,滩面宽坦,物质较细,如三亚湾和大东海海滩。因湾口朝向与湾内岛礁分布发育情况不同,湾内受常浪和台风强浪作用的强度与频率不同,加之现代泥沙补给情况的差异,这一类海滩的形态结构亦不尽相同。如三亚湾西侧近岬角处,波能辐聚,动力强,侵蚀作用突出,滩面呈近直线形倾斜,并形成两道陡坎;三亚湾中部,受岛礁保护,滩面宽阔,波浪消能空间充足,物质丰富,发育滩脊型海滩,滩面呈上凸形,基本稳定;三亚湾东侧,虽有岛礁掩蔽,但由于人为修建的绿地草坪带和水泥碎砖石小径等,建设高度过低, 束狭了激浪带的自由作用宽度,减小了波浪消能范围,破坏了海滩的整体结构,同时阻断了沙坝向海滩的供沙, 使滩面坡度加大,物质粗化,局部与小径相接处形成侵蚀陡坎、椰树等倾斜,呈侵蚀状态。     

Laboratory study on tsunami erosion and deposition under protection of rigid emergent vegetation

Devastating tsunami waves can change the coastal morphology considerably. The effects of vegetation to coastal morphodynamics have been of primary interest for decades, because of their role in coastal protection and ecological environment. The damping of wave and impact of beach evolution are the two significant contributions on emerged vegetation. However, the laboratory study of tsunami erosion and deposition under protection of coastal vegetation was less understood compared to tsunami run-up and tsunami inundation. A set of laboratory experiments were reported in this study on changes of size-selective sandy beach profile under the protection of rigid emergent vegetation. The total of fifteen experiments was carried out in a wave flume including two initial profiles (with vegetation and none vegetation), three different wave conditions and four forest densities. The experiments show that rigid emergent vegetation changes the depth and location of tsunami deposition and erosion in sandy beach. The dimensionless numbers were derived to characterize the cross-shore beach profile response under the protection of rigid emergent vegetation. These parameters were written as a dimensionless group, and based upon this present experimental datum, the empirical equations were developed. The study reveals the internal connection among tsunami deposition and erosion, wave height and forest density. The findings of this study have the potential to assist the tsunami hazards prevention and mitigation.     

Track analysis and storm surge investigation of 2017 Typhoon Hato: were the warning signals issued in Macau and Hong Kong timed appropriately?

ABSTRACT

This study investigates the storm surge caused by Typhoon Hato, which severely affected Macau, Hong Kong, and other coastal cities in China on 23 August 2017. A typhoon and storm surge coupling model demonstrated that the maximum storm surge height reached nearly 2.5?m along the coast of Macau, while that in Hong Kong was slightly below 2?m. Furthermore, a field survey of urban flooding revealed evidence of a 2.25-m inundation in downtown Macau and a 0.55-m inundation on Lantau Island, Hong Kong, which were likely exacerbated by a combination of storm surge, heavy rainfall, and surface water runoff over a complex hilly terrain. Significant wave overtopping and runup also occurred in beach and port areas. A typhoon track analysis confirmed that several comparably strong typhoons have followed similar ESE to WNW trajectories and made landfall in the Pearl River Delta in the last few decades. Although Hato was not the strongest of these storms, its forward speed of about 32.5?km/h was remarkably faster than those of other comparable typhoons. Higher levels of storm signal warnings were issued earlier in Hong Kong than in Macau, raising questions about the appropriate timing of warnings in these two nearby areas. Our analysis of the storm’s pattern suggests that both regions’ decisions regarding signal issuance could be considered reasonable or at least cannot be simply blamed, given the rapid motion and intensification of Hato and the associated economic risks at stake.