Nonlinear Dispersion Effect on Wave Transformation

—A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper.which can overcome the limitationof the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple(1986).and which has a better approximation to Hedges'empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges(1987).Kirby and Dalrymple(1987)for shallow waters.The new dispersion relation is simple in form.thusit can be used easily in practice.Meanwhile,a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion rela-tion and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given.By use of the explicit approximation to the newdispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinear effect.amathematical model is obtained,and it is applied to laboratory data.The results show that the model de-veloped with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quitewell.     

非线性弥散效应及其对波浪变形的影响

针对Hedges,Kirby和Dalrymple提出的非线性弥散关系的修正式在浅水区存在的较大偏差的问题，给出了一个在整个水深范围内具有单值性的非线性弥散关系。比较可知，它具有在深水与中等水深逼近二阶Stokes波的弥散关系式，在浅水较Hedges,Kirby和Dalymple的修正表达式与Hedges的关系更加吻合的优点，且形式简练，用近似该非线性弥散关系的显式表达式，结合弱非线性效应的缓坡方程，得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形模型。数值模拟结果表明，用新的非线性弥散关系得到的模型对复杂地形进行模拟的结果和实测结果吻合很好。     

Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to non-linear depth inversions

A number of existing models for surface wave phase speeds (linear and non-linear, breaking and non-breaking waves) are reviewed and tested against phase speed data from a large-scale laboratory experiment. The results of these tests are utilized in the context of assessing the potential improvement gained by incorporating wave non-linearity in phase speed based depth inversions. The analysis is focused on the surf zone, where depth inversion accuracies are known to degrade significantly. The collected data includes very high-resolution remote sensing video and surface elevation records from fixed, in-situ wave gages. Wave phase speeds are extracted from the remote sensing data using a feature tracking technique, and local wave amplitudes are determined from the wave gage records and used for comparisons to non-linear phase speed models and for non-linear depth inversions. A series of five different regular wave conditions with a range of non-linearity and dispersion characteristics are analyzed and results show that a composite dispersion relation, which includes both non-linearity and dispersion effects, best matches the observed phase speeds across the domain and hence, improves surf zone depth estimation via depth inversions. Incorporating non-linearity into the phase speed model reduces errors to O(10%), which is a level previously found for depth inversions with small amplitude waves in intermediate water depths using linear dispersion. Considering the controlled conditions and extensive ground truth, this appears to be a practical limit for phase speed-based depth inversions. Finally, a phase speed sensitivity analysis is performed that indicates that typical nearshore sand bars should be resolvable using phase speed depth inversions. However, increasing wave steepness degrades the sensitivity of this inversion method.     

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

波浪的非线性显式弥散关系

波浪的非线性弥散关系在应用于求解波浪的变形问题时很不方便，需要与含非线性效应的缓坡方程一起进行迭代运算，往往导致数值计算的计算量太大，计算过于复杂。采用显式形式表达非线性弥散关系，可以克服上述缺点，大为简化波浪变形数值计算的计算量。本文通过将现有的非线性弥散关系进行分析比较，给出了一个更为一般的非线性弥散关系及其显式表达式，经比较可知，该显式弥散关系与相对应非线性弥散关系吻合的很好。本文最后用该显式结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程，对复式浅滩地形上的波浪折射绕射进行了计算。结果表明，考虑弱非线性可以得出与实验数据更为相符的结果，而采用显式弥散关系可以有效提高计算效率,在波浪的非线性计算中不失为一种切实有效的方法。     

A study on kinematics characteristics of freak wave

Based on the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory, the speed of freak waves is formulated in terms of the period and the wave height. Finite modified wave steepness gives rise to a significant enhancement of the nonlinear contributions to the freak wave speed in comparison with the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory. For a fix modified wave steepness, the estimated amplification of the nonlinear contributions due to the deviation from the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory is 0.22～0.99. In addition, the velocity and acceleration fields are also documented in detail. In the present simulation, the horizontal velocities are smaller than the wave speed, and the freak wave exhibits a maximal horizontal velocity up to 37% of the wave speed and a maximal vertical acceleration up to about 20% of the gravitational acceleration.     

考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型

提出了逼近Kirby和Dalrymple的非线性弥散关系的显式非线性弥散关系的表达式,该显式表达式与他们的非线性弥散关系的精度几乎完全相同.采用显式非线性弥散关系,结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型,并对该数学模型进行了数值验证.结果表明,考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型更为精确.     

New Numerical Scheme for Simulation of Hyperbolic Mild-Slope Equation

The original hyperbolic mild-slope equation can effectively take into account the combined effects of wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection, but does not consider the nonlinear effect of waves, and the existing numerical schemes for it show some deficiencies. Based on the original hyperbolic mild-slope equation, a nonlinear dispersion relation is introduced in present paper to effectively take the nonlinear effect of waves into account and a new numerical scheme is proposed. The weakly nonlinear dispersion relation and the improved numerical scheme are applied to the simulation of wave transformation over an elliptic shoal. Numerical tests show that the improvement of the numerical scheme makes efficient the solution to the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. A comparison of numerical results with experimental data indicates that the results obtained by use of the new scheme are satisfactory.     

驱动非线性浅水波的行波特征研究

采用带有外界强迫效应的浅水动力学模式研究非线性波动、获得了依赖于外界输入形式的驱动水波的行波解。研究结果表明,驱动水波仍具有非线性波动的一般性质,而当外界强迫波速与水波固有速度一致时,水波出现共振效应,并且外界强迫孤立子将导致驱动水波孤立子产生。     

非线性效应对浅水水波变形的影响

本文采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程建立了一个考虑非线性作用的浅水水波变形数值模型,模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能守恒方程一起来求解波浪在浅水中变形的波浪要素,在波能守恒方程中考虑了底摩擦的影响。利用本文提出的数值模型对一个斜坡浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象进行了验证,验证计算中用一个非线性经验弥散关系近似浅水水波变形的非线性效应并与用线性弥散关系的计算结果进行了比较,结果说明使用非线性     

Improved parabolic water wave transformation model

An improved parabolic water wave transformation model is developed based on generalized [1/1] Padé approximation. For forward scattered waves, the parabolic equation is solved using a marching scheme. The values of wave angles are calculated after the solution of each line; so that better [1/1] generalized Padé approximation is performed. The nonlinear effects are included using a modified dispersion equation. The model is easy to use and performs very well for complex bathymetry. The model is tested for cases of wave angles up to 70°. The numerical results show that for large wave angles, the new parabolic model is better than all the existing parabolic models based on rational approximation.     

具有精确色散性的非线性波浪水平二维数学模型

建立具有色散性的水平二维非线性波浪方程,方程的非线性近似到了三阶。方程以波面升高和自由表面速度势表达的微分-积分型数学方程,给出方程的数值求解方法和算例,对方程积分项的处理给出了计算方法。计算结果与Boussinesq方程模型和缓坡方程模型的对应计算结果进行了对比。     

A Modified Form of Mild-Slope Equation with Weakly Nonlinear Effect

Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast.     

基于破碎临界区的新型拍岸浪统计计算模型研究

When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calcula...     

Downward transfer of momentum by wind-driven waves

A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models.     

一种新型二阶全非线性Boussinesq方程及其数值验证

通过改进二阶全非线性 Boussinesq 波浪方程中的色散项,得到了一组没有改变原方程的数学形式但适用于更大变化水深的新方程,其色散性能和变浅性能都比原方程有了很大改进,所适用的水深范围更大,能更好地描述从深水到近岸浅水处的波浪传播;并基于新方程建立了波浪数值模型,通过模拟波浪从浅水到深水的传播变形来验证新方程的有效性.     

Detection of ocean waves using satellite altimetry: Application to equatorial Kelvin waves

A new method for wave motion detection from satellite altimetric measurements of sea surface height is presented. The essence of the approach is to construct a two‐dimensional traveling‐wave Fourier series representation of the amplitude field within a prespecified oceanic region. The method employs an iterative, nonlinear least‐squares technique based on the Marquardt‐Levenberg algorithm to solve for model parameters describing characteristic features of the evolving wave system. The Marquardt‐Levenberg Fourier series (MLFS) algorithm was applied to Kelvin waves active during the 1986–1987 El Nino event in the equatorial Pacific ocean using GEOSAT Exact Repeat Mission altimetry data. Characteristics of the wave system were found to be in essential agreement with earlier field measurements and the observations of Cheney and Miller (1987) obtained using time series developed from GEOSAT data. The advantage of the present detection scheme lies in its speed and ability to determine a wave system's dispersion relation over a finite range of wavenumbers, and hence the group velocity of that system.     

Modeling of the propagation of transient waves of moderate steepness

A theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A semi-analytical solution was derived by applying an eigenfunction expansion method. The solution is applied to analyze the effect of wave frequencies and wave steepness on the propagation of nonlinear waves. The main attention is paid to the wave profile, the wave energy spectrum, and the changes of wave profile and energy spectrum due to the interaction of wave components in a wave train. The results show that for waves of low steepness the nonlinear wave effects and effects associated with the interaction of water waves in a wave train are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves the effects associated with the interactions between waves in a wave train are becoming significant and a train of initially sinusoidal waves may drastically change its form within a short distance from its original position. The evolution of wave components has substantial effects on the wave spectrum. A train of initially very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short period of time. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical approaches. The free-surface elevation recorded by a system of wave gauges was compared with the results provided by the semi-analytical solution. Theoretical results are in a fairly good agreement with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed often even for relatively steep waves.     

Generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume

A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.     

Modeling of propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current

A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.