基于大涡模拟和局部滤波同化方法的海洋环流模式

结合最小二乘法极值原理,提出了一种基于局部谱展开的滤波同化方法,把测量数据和数值计算过程中出现的高频短波滤掉,并将高度计数据同化到了求解过程中.结果既增加了数值稳定性,又提高了数值模拟的准确性.针对在海洋环流问题中水平的流动性质和垂直的不同的特点,我们还将大涡模拟的思想和直接涡黏的思想分别应用于水平方向和垂直方向,给出的方法是一种适用于海洋环流和浅水环流问题的大涡模拟湍流模式.对热带和北太平洋一年四季非定常季风作用下环流的数值模拟表明,提出的方法非常有效,数值结果与实际相当吻合.     

A nearshore wave breaking model

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一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

从波浪破碎的能量关系入手,以紊流能量方程为基础,考虑破碎区内单个波在不同破碎阶段所提供的紊动能量强度的变化过程,提出了一种波浪破碎模式.通过将这一模型引入Boussinesq方程中,初步建立了一种近岸区波浪变形数学模型,并用波浪水槽实验资料对模型模拟波高和平均水位的情况进行了初步验证,得到了良好的结果.     

The mixing mechanism in the formation of ocean shear waves

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球坐标系下MASNUM海浪数值模式的建立及其应用

为开展海浪对海洋上混合层的搅拌混合作用及其对海气界面通量的影响等研究,在LAGFD WAM区域海浪数值模式基础上建立了球坐标系下的全球海浪数值模式.重点导出了球坐标系下的海浪能量谱平衡方程及其复杂特征线方程,该组方程包含了背景流场对波动传播的调整、波动沿大圆传播的折射等.数值积分则采用复杂特征线嵌入计算格式.初步数值模拟结果表明,该海浪全球数值模式能够较为精确地刻画海浪的动力过程.     

Three-dimensional dynamic sea surface modeling based on ocean wave spectrum

In conventional marine seismic exploration data processing, the sea surface is usually treated as a horizontal free boundary. However, the sea surface is affected by wind and waves and there often exists dynamic small-range fluctuations. These dynamic fluctuations will change the energy propagation path and affect the final imaging results. In theoretical research, different sea surface conditions need to be described, so it is necessary to study the modeling method of dynamic undulating sea surface. Starting from the commonly used sea surface mathematical simulation methods, this paper mainly studies the realization process of simple harmonic wave and Gerstner wave sea surface simulation methods based on ocean wave spectrum, and compares their advantages and disadvantages. Aiming at the shortcomings of the simple harmonic method and Gerstner method in calculational speed and sea surface simulation effect, a method based on wave equation and using dynamic boundary conditions for sea surface simulation is proposed. The calculational speed of this method is much faster than the commonly used simple harmonic method and Gerstner wave method. In addition, this paper also compares the new method with the more commonly used higher-order spectral methods to show the characteristics of the improved wave equation method.     

一种基本Boussinesq方程的近岸区破碎波模型

基于文献「１」Ｂｏｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的近岸区破碎波模型基础,将数值模型中的波高衰减规律由假设改进为Ｄａｌｌｙ的解析公式,使近岸区破碎波模型的应用性更强。并将数值模型计算结果与现场实验资料进行对比,取得了满意的结果。     

基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程二维波浪传播数值模型

建立基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程的二维波浪传播数值模型。采用Kennedy等提出的涡粘方法模拟波浪破碎。在矩形网格上对控制方程进行离散,采用高精度的数值格式对离散方程进行数值求解。对规则波在具有三维特征地形上的传播过程进行了数值模拟,通过数值模拟结果与实验结果的对比,对所建立的波浪传播模型进行了验证。同时,为了考察非线性对波浪传播的影响,给出和上述模型具有同阶色散性、变浅作用性能但仅具有二阶完全非线性特征的波浪模型的数值结果。通过对比两个模型的数值结果以及实验数据,讨论非线性在波浪传播过程中的作用。研究结果表明,所建立的Boussinesq水波方程在深水范围内不但具有较精确的色散性和变浅作用性能,而且具有四阶完全非线性特征,适合模拟波浪在近岸水域的非线性运动。     

一种海洋柔性胶囊波能发电装置研究

海洋波浪能可再生能源的开发是未来发展的趋势,开发设计更为高效的波能转换利用装置是开发利用波浪能的关键。根据脉搏脉动机理,设计发明了一种柔性胶囊发电装置,利用柔性结构的强收缩性,让其随着波峰波谷收缩扩张,进而形成脉动来传输水体,使相连尾端竖管内水位随着脉动骤升骤降来压缩排出和快速吸入空气。进行了一系列探索性实验,着重研究柔性材料厚度、波高、周期、气室孔径对该试验装置的波能转换率的影响,数据表明,柔性硅胶管有很好的聚波作用,气室的设计和建造对波能转换效率有较大的影响。     

Instability analysis of three-dimensional ocean shear waves

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海底管线上波浪力的大涡模拟及三步有限元数值模拟

应用三步有限元法结合大涡模拟方法(LES)离散非定常不可压流动的Navier-Stokes方程,模拟了波浪场中海底管线周围流场及其受力情况,并把数值模拟的结果与物理实验的实测结果进行了比较,两者符合较好。为了检验三维效应的影响,同时进行了二维和三维流场的数值模拟。     

欧拉模型模拟波浪的抑制数值耗散效应的一种简单方法

数值波浪水槽是研究波浪及波浪与结构相互作用的常用工具,可在真实尺度下产生波浪,并提供流场的详细数据。然而,大部分数值波浪水槽都存在数值耗散和数值色散问题,数值耗散使波能缓慢消散,数值弥散在波传播过程中使波频移。本文在有限差分法（FDM）求解欧拉方程的基础上,提出了一种抑制数值耗散效应的简单方法,考虑阻尼项的影响,对波的传播解进行了解析求解。该方法的主要思想是在动量方程中附加一个源项,其强度由数值阻尼效应的强度决定。本文通过对规则线性波、Stokes波和不规则波的数值模拟,验证了该方法的有效性。结果表明,本文方法可有效减小数值波浪水槽中存在的数值耗散现象。     

上混合中剪切湍流和朗缪尔环流动力特征差异

Large eddy simulation(LES) is used to investigate contrasting dynamic characteristics of shear turbulence(ST)and Langmuir circulation(LC) in the surface mixed layer(SML). ST is usually induced by wind forcing in SML. LC can be driven by wave-current interaction that includes the roles of wind, wave and vortex forcing. The LES results show that LC suppresses the horizontal velocity and greatly modifies the downwind velocity profile, but increases the vertical velocity. The strong downwelling jets of LC accelerate and increase the downward transport of energy as compared to ST. The vertical eddy viscosity Km of LC is much larger than that of ST. Strong mixing induced by LC has two locations. They are located in the 2ds–3ds(Stokes depth scale) and the lower layer of the SML,respectively. Its value and position change periodically with time. In contrast, maximum Km induced by ST is located in the middle depth of the SML. The turbulent kinetic energy(TKE) generated by LC is larger than that by ST. The differences in vertical distributions of TKE and Km are evident. Therefore, the parameterization of LC cannot be solely based on TKE. For deep SML, the convection of large-scale eddies in LC plays a main role in downward transport of energy and LC can induce stronger velocity shear(S2) near the SML base. In addition, the large-scale eddies and S2 induced by LC is changing all the time, which needs to be fully considered in the parameterization of LC.     

Forecasting ocean wave energy: The ECMWF wave model and time series methods

Recently, the technology has been developed to make wave farms commercially viable. Since electricity is perishable, utilities will be interested in forecasting ocean wave energy. The horizons involved in short-term management of power grids range from as little as a few hours to as long as several days. In selecting a method, the forecaster has a choice between physics-based models and statistical techniques. A further idea is to combine both types of models. This paper analyzes the forecasting properties of a well-known physics-based model, the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Wave Model, and two statistical techniques, time-varying parameter regressions and neural networks. Thirteen data sets at locations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the Gulf of Mexico are tested. The quantities to be predicted are the significant wave height, the wave period, and the wave energy flux. In the initial tests, the ECMWF model and the statistical models are compared directly. The statistical models do better at short horizons, producing more accurate forecasts in the 1-5 h range. The ECMWF model is superior at longer horizons. The convergence point, at which the two methods achieve comparable degrees of accuracy, is in the area of 6 h. By implication, the physics-based model captures the underlying signals at lower frequencies, while the statistical models capture relationships over shorter intervals. Further tests are run in which the forecasts from the ECMWF model are used as inputs in regressions and neural networks. The combined models yield more accurate forecasts than either one individually.     

Numerical Study of Submerged Vertical Plane Jets Under Progressive Water Surface Waves

When wastewater is discharged into a coastal area through an ouffall system, it will always be subjected to the action of waves. It is important to study and quantify the mixing of the discharge with the ambient water so that accurate environmental impact assessment can be made for such discharge conditions. The present work aims to study the phenomenon of a plane jet discharged into water environment with regular waves. A 3D numerical model based on the full Navier- Stokes equations （NSE） in the a-coordinate is developed to study the present problem. Turbulence effects are modeled by a subgrid-scale （SGS） model using the concept of large eddy simulation （LES）. The operator splitting method is used to solve the modified NSE. The model has been applied to the simulation of three different eases of submerged plane jets with surface waves： jet with strong waves, jet with weak waves and jet without waves. Numerical results show that the waves enhance the mixing of the jet with the ambient fluid, and cause a periodic deflection of the jet. The size of the recirculation is about 1.5- 2.4 h （water depth） . The velocity profile of the jet is serf-similar in the zone of established flow for both the pure jet and jet in wave circumstances. The spreading characteristic constant a is 0. 100 and 0. 105 for pure momentum jets with Re numbers 1025 and 2050. The value of a increases from 0. 130 to 0. 147 for a jet in weak and strong wave circumstances, showing that waves have an obvious effect on the mixing and dilution properties of jets. Numerical results are in good agreement with the experimental data for the cases of pure jets and jets with waves.     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Forces on Seabed Pipelines

A three-step finite element method(FEM)together with Large Eddy Simulation(LES)is ap-plied to incompressible turbulent flow around seabed pipelines at relatively high Reynolds numbers.Bothtwo-dimensional and three-dimensional numerical simulation is carried out to determine thethree-dimensional effect.The results of numerical simulation agree quite well with the wave forces actingon pipeline models measured in physical model test.     

近岸波浪在刚性植被区域传播的数值模型

基于扩展型Boussinesq水波方程,建立了波浪在刚性植被覆盖的近岸海域传播的数值模型。通过在动量方程源项中引入拖曳阻力项考虑植被对波浪的衰减作用。控制方程采用有限差分和有限体积混合格式求解,模型稳定性强,具备间断捕捉能力,能有效模拟近岸区域波浪的传播变形、破碎和处理海岸动边界问题。利用所建立模型对典型物理模型实验进行模拟,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好,表明模型可用于波浪在刚性植被覆盖海域的数值计算。     

基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型

海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。     

Evolution and breaking of a propagating internal wave in stratified ocean

The evolution and breaking of a propagating internal wave are directly numerically simulated using a pseudo-spectral method. The mechanism of PSI （ parametric subharmonic instability） involved in the evolution is testified clearly. It dominates gradually in nonlinear resonant interactions. As a consequence, the energy cascades to a second plant wave packet which has lower frequencies and higher wavenumbers than that of the primary wave. With the growth of this wave packet, wave breaking occurs and causes strongly nonlinear regime, i.e. stratified turbulence. The strong mixing and intermittent of the turbulence can be learned from the evolution of the total energy and kurtosis of vorticity vs. time. Some statistic properties of the stratified turbulence are also analyzed, including the spectra of KE （kinetic energy） and PE （potential energy）. The results show that the PE spectra display a wavenumber range scaling as 0. 2 N^4ky^-3 （N is the Brunt - Vaisala frequency, k, is the vertical wavenumber）, which is called buoyancy sub-range. However, the KE spectra cannot satisfy the negative cubic law of vertical wavenumber, which have a much larger downtrend than that of the PE spectra, for the potential energy is transferred more efficiently toward small scales than the kinetic energy. The Cox number of diapycnal diffusivity is also calculated, and it shows a good consistency with the observations and deductions in the ocean interior, during the stage of the stratified turbulence maintaining a fairly active level.     

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。