Modified Weibull-derived spectrum for deep water significant wave height estimation

The modified Weibull spectrum is utilized to calculate the zeroth spectral moment (m_o) using Monte Carlo integration methods. Then significant wave height (H_s) is calculated using the formula This is validated with observed buoy data and numerical wave model (WAM) predicted significant wave heights. The Weibull parameters have been calculated using energy densities from observed spectra recorded by DS5 buoy (13.80° N, 82.52° E, depth 3355.48 m) by the method of maximum likelihood (MLE).The relative root mean square error (RRMS) and relative bias error criteria show that modified Weibull spectrum estimated significant wave heights are better than those predicted by WAM model. The monthly averaged observed wave power spectra for the year 2005 recorded by deep water buoy DS5 is considered in this work. The spectra exhibit bimodal sea states for several months of the year.     

Application of wave model for weather routing of ships in the North Indian Ocean

Weather routing of ships is used to establish the shortest time route or the most economical route from a departure to arrival point by applying available information of the weather condition viz. wind, wave and current. Information on ship speed loss due to these effects is pre-computed using sea-keeping computing tools, which are then suitably employed in the optimum ship routing algorithm. This developed algorithm was investigated using the wave height information from GEOSAT altimeter records. Dijkstra’s path optimization scheme, which employs optimal control theory and dynamic programming technique, is used to obtain reliable optimum route in a given random sea-state.     

An analytical source function for a coupled hybrid wave model

An analytical form for the source function is formulated by comparing the fetch-limited approximation of the Ocean Wave Transport equation and the empirical equation for the fetch-dependent wave forecast nomograms. The source function thus generated has been utilised in the numerical model based on Toba’s formulation of wave transport equation and tested for the seas around the Indian subcontinent (5°S to 25°N latitude; 45°E to 100°E longitude). The grid averaged hindcast wave heights are found to be moderately matching with the GEOSAT altimeter measured significant wave heights of the 1987–1989 period, particularly for waves higher than 1 meter.     

Numerical experiment with modelled return echo of a satellite altimeter from a rough ocean surface and a simple iterative algorithm for the estimation of significant wave height

We have simulated the return echo of a satellite altimeter from a rough ocean surface using an analytical formula and have studied its sensitivity with respect to various oceanic and altimeter parameters. Our numerical experiment shows that for normally observed significant wave heights (SWH) the effect of off-nadir angle (ONA) up to 0.5° on the leading edge is not severe. Also, small surface roughness skewness seems to have little effect on the overall shape of the echo. Newton’s iterative scheme has been used to retrieve SWH from the mean return waveform without noise and with additive Gaussian noise typical of Seasat and Geosat altimeters. It has been observed that SWH can be retrieved in the presence of noise with an accuracy of ±0.6 m for ONA less than 0.5°. For higher ONA, accurate retrieval requires the use of precomputed look-up table along with our scheme.     

Estimation of wave period statistics using numerical coastal wave model

We used field and model wave data to investigate that zero crossing and average wave period distribution follow Gamma distribution. Since Gamma CDF is an infinite power series, further mathematical treatment is difficult. Hence its shape parameter is approximated to the nearest integer to arrive at Erlang distribution. An expression is derived from Erlang distribution to estimate various mean wave periods and significant wave period and validated by relative root mean square (RRMS) error criteria. It is shown by mathematical logic that the significant wave period distribution follows Erlang (or Gamma) distribution and is validated. The average of one-third and one-tenth highest wave periods (T _s ) estimated from Erlang distribution are in accordance with the values computed from recorded buoy and numerical coastal wave model wave period data. The predicted T _s values from coastal wave model wave period data underestimates the values from buoy wave period data.     

沉积盆地波动过程分析方法在中国的应用

沉积盆地波动过程分析方法是一种较新的盆地分析方法。该方法以物理学中有关波的理论为基础，以波动的观点来分析地壳运动，从地层资料入手，通过恢复地层原始厚度，计算沉积速率，建立反映盆地沉积—剥蚀过程的波动方程。据此进行波动过程分析，借助方程的参数，得到波动周期；通过波动方程对时间积分，可以定量分析剥蚀量；对波动方程进行分析，得到波动过程。在综合分析的基础上，预测有利的油气聚集区和成藏旋回。此方法在国内的一些盆地已得到应用，并取得了较好的效果。     

Spectral characteristics of the nearshore waves off Paradip,India during monsoon and extreme events

Spectral and statistical wave parameters obtained from the measured time series wave data off Paradip, east coast of India during May 1996–January 1997 were analysed along with MIKE 21 spectral wave model (SW) results. Statistical wave parameters and directional wave energy spectra distinctly separate out the wave conditions that prevailed off Paradip in the monsoon, fair weather and extreme weather events during the above period. Frequency-energy spectra during extreme events are single peaked, and the maximum energy distribution is in a narrow frequency band with an average directional spreading of 20°. Spectra for other seasons are multi-peaked, and energy is distributed over a wide range of frequencies and directions. The NCEP re-analysis winds were used in the model, and the results clearly bring out the wave features during depressions. The simulated wave parameters reasonably show good match with the measurements. For example, the correlation coefficient between the measured and modelled significant wave height is 0.87 and the bias −0.25.     

基于地基现场横波波速测试评判建筑场地类别的研究

工程场地纵、横波波速测试是近年来在工程勘察中取得一定效果的原位测试方法之一。以工程实例为依据,结合新型XG-1型悬挂式单孔波速测井仪测试结果,说明了横波波速可以确定场地土类型、判定建筑场地类别、估算场地卓越周期、评价岩(土)体质量,为场地工程地质评价和工程设计提供科学依据。     

一种改进的近岸波浪破碎数值模型

提出一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的改进波浪破碎模型,用于模拟近岸浅水波浪破碎.模型借助水滚的概念,提出一种确定k方程紊动模式中紊动源项的计算公式,通过解k方程计算Boussinesq方程中的涡黏系数,实现对破碎波的模拟.岸边界采用窄缝法,使得模型可用于波浪爬坡的计算.用实验室实测波高和增减水资料对模型进行了验证,得到了一致的结果.紊动源、紊动动能以及紊动耗散率的计算结果表明:①在破波点处紊动源项值最大,随着波浪向岸边传播,逐渐减小;②破波点处,水平方向的对流和扩散在紊动能量输移中发挥重要作用;③岸边附近紊动源与紊动耗散接近平衡.     

节理岩体应力波反演模型研究

通过分析垂直节理面入射应力波的传播过程,得出节理界面产生的各次回波波形函数表达式,确定波源处的振动组合,从而建立以该振动信号分析为基础的反演节理特征的模型。该模型不仅能反演出节理的一些基本特征,包括：节理的位置、节理内充填物的波阻抗、品质因子、以及节理宽度与波速比值,而且还能反演出节理另一侧岩石的波阻抗,这一成果无疑将扩大应力波在节理岩体测试中的应用范围。     

SWAN浅水波浪模式在渤海的应用研究--Phillips线性增长比例系数的改进

将国际上通用的SWAN波浪数值模式应用到渤海,以检验其适应性。通过对由风引起的波浪的增长和耗散作用源函数的实验研究,发现SWAN中所采用的Phillips线性增长部分的比例系数和波浪成长有较大的关系,此比例系数随摩擦速度变化(原模式取此系数为一常数)。基于模式试验,引入了一个新的Phillips线性增长项公式,并且利用3个风过程对模式的改进进行了验证。3个风过程的计算结果和实测值比较表明,计算结果在3个过程当中都得到了明显的改进。     

人工神经网络在海浪数值预报中的应用

探讨将人工神经网络技术和传统的数值模式相结合,以期得到一个更有效的海浪预报方法.以第3代海浪模式的模拟结果作为输入,浮标观测资料作为输出,采用人工神经网络进行训练,训练的初步结果显示,人工神经网络可以改进海浪数值模式的预报精度,但在波高比较大时,改进的效果并不令人满意.为此,对观测值大于1.5m时的有效波高进行再训练,从而结果有了进一步的改善.研究结果证明人工神经网络技术可以提高海浪数值预报的精度.     

Investigation into the effect of fault properties on wave transmission

The estimation of wave transmission across the fractured rock masses is of great importance for rock engineers to assess the stability of rock slopes in open pit mines. Presence of fault, as a major discontinuity, in the jointed rock mass can significantly impact on the peak particle velocity and transmission of blast waves, particularly where a fault contains a thick infilling with weak mechanical properties. This paper aims to study the effect of fault properties on transmission of blasting waves using the distinct element method. First, a validation study was carried out on the wave transmission across a single joint and different rock mediums through undertaking a comparative study against analytical models. Then, the transmission of blast wave across a fault with thick infilling in the Golgohar iron mine, Iran, was numerically studied, and the results were compared with the field measurements. The blast wave was numerically simulated using a hybrid finite element and finite difference code which then the outcome was used as the input for the distinct element method analysis. The measured uplift of hanging wall, as a result of wave transmission across the fault, in the numerical model agrees well with the recorded field measurement. Finally, the validated numerical model was used to study the effect of fault properties on wave transmission. It was found that the fault inclination angle is the most effective parameter on the peak particle velocity and uplift. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

波浪荷载作用下斜向抗拔桩的承载特性分析

针对浮式海洋结构采用的桩基础,考虑土的循环软化效应,将软土的循环强度与Mohr-Coulomb屈服准则相结合,基于拟静力弹塑性分析建立了循环波浪载荷作用下斜向抗拔桩循环承载性能的计算模型,确定了斜向上载荷作用下抗拔桩的循环承载力,并与单调加载作用下的斜向抗拔桩的极限承载力进行了对比,进一步探讨了桩长、桩径、桩体模量及载荷循环次数等因素对斜向抗拔桩循环承载力的影响。研究结果表明：循环波浪荷载的作用导致了斜向抗拔桩土体循环强度的分布不均匀,从而降低了地基的循环承载力。斜向抗拔桩的动态极限承载力随循环次数的增加而降低,随桩长、桩径及桩体模量的增大而增大。     

浅水波浪数值模型SWAN的原理及应用综述

概述了模拟海岸、河口的浅水波浪数值模型研究现状、存在的问题以及用能量平衡方程预报海浪的发展历史。介绍了基于当代最新波浪理论研究成果的第三代浅水波浪数值模型SWAN模型,对模型的适用性、数值特性、功能及局限性进行了阐述。介绍动谱平衡方程数学模型、方程离散要求、边界条件的处理和源项(包括能量输入、损耗及波与波之间非线性相互作用)的处理方法,重点介绍三相波非线性相互作用。模拟海安湾有效波高、波周期场,并分析波与波之间非线性相互作用对波浪要素预报的影响,最后对SWAN模型的应用前景和研究趋势进行了展望。     

Application of wave transformation models for estimation of morphological changes at Vellar estuary,southeast coast of India

Assessment of the wave climate at near coast is vital for estimation of morphological changes, such as growth of sand spit and associated siltation of tidal inlets. Vellar (bar-built) estuary is one of the prominent estuaries along the southeast coast of India, located at 11°30′N and 79°46′E, less studied in terms of its morphological features. The inlet of Vellar is exposed to high energetic waves, inducing large sediment transport rates and shoreline changes. Local wave characteristics are not accurately defined and the available wave information at near coast is limited (point based observations). In the present study, three decoupled numerical models are employed to derive the monthly nearshore wave climate at Vellar by transforming waves from deep water to nearshore. These models are independently validated with buoy observations in deep water and wave gauge data at nearshore. Based on the nearshore wave data, littoral drift along the coast was estimated and compared with the spit growth at Vellar inlet. The estimated average littoral drift along this coast from February to October is 1.93 × 10⁶ m³ toward north and from November to January it is 1.52 × 10⁶ m³ toward south, resulting in a net northerly drift. Results indicated that increase in the wave energy during the period of July to September is responsible for the maximum growth of the sand spit observed in the field.     

Application of the numerical manifold method for stress wave propagation across rock masses

In this paper, the numerical manifold method (NMM) is extended to study wave propagation across rock masses. First, improvements to the system equations, contact treatment, and boundary conditions of the NMM are performed, where new system equations are derived based on the Newmark assumption of the space–time relationship, the edge‐to‐edge contact treatment is further developed for the NMM to handle stress wave propagation across discontinuities, and the viscous non‐reflection boundary condition is derived based on the energy minimisation principle. After the modification, numerical comparisons between the original and improved NMM are presented. The results show that the original system equations result in artificial numerical damping, which can be overcome by the Newmark system equations. Meanwhile, the original contact scheme suffers some calculation problems when modelling stress wave propagation across a discontinuity, which can be solved by the proposed edge‐to‐edge contact scheme. Subsequently, the influence of the mesh size and time step on the improved NMM for stress wave propagation is studied. Finally, 2D wave propagation is modelled, and the model's results are in good agreement with the analytical solution. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

瑞雷面波法在路基质量检测中的应用

根据瑞雷面波在层状介质中的传播理论，波速的变化可以反映出岩土力学性质的变化。在上述理论的基础上，利用瑞雷面波法，结合实际的工程地质工作，可进行高速公路路基质量的检测。通过瑞雷面波法在某高速公路路基病害调查中的工作实例及现场工作方法，论述了该技术在公路路基质量检测中的应用前景及推广价值。     

基于反射波法的桩身完整性判别的神经网络模型

提出了一种基于应力波反射波法判别基桩桩身完整性的BP型神经网络模型。该模型以桩身应力波波形曲线、桩的几何尺寸和桩身混凝土波速等为网络的输入信息,预测作为网络输出信息的桩身完整性特征,如正常、缩径、扩径、离析和开裂等。通过采用多种运算改进技术,提高了网络的可行性和计算速度。对天津市软土地基中的数十根灌注桩的实测波形等资料学习和预测,取得了令人满意的精度。     

瑞雷面波在探测驳岸基础中的应用

探明驳岸基础对于城市地下空间的开发利用具有重要意义。根据驳岸基础与下部土层的波速差异,在驳岸上布置测线,可采用瑞雷面波探测驳岸基础深度。选用人工锤击震源、合适的偏移距及道间距,采集数据经过CCSWS系统的处理分析,得出地下波速剖面图,可确定驳岸基础的埋深。本文说明了瑞雷面波在探测驳岸基础中应用的可行性。