Estimating of gas transfer velocity using triple isotopes of dissolved oxygen

The atmosphere-ocean exchange of climatically important gases is determined by the transfer velocity (k) and concentration gradient across the interface. Based on observations in the northwestern subarctic Pacific and Sagami Bay, we report here the results of the first ever application of the natural abundance of triple isotopes of dissolved oxygen (¹⁶O, ¹⁷O and ¹⁸O) for direct estimation of k and propose a new relationship with wind speed. The k values estimated from nighttime variations in oxygen isotopes are found to be higher than the direct estimations at low wind speed (<5 m s⁻¹) and lower at high wind speeds (>13 m s⁻¹) and showed significant spatial variability. The method presented here can be used to derive seasonal and spatial variations in k and the influence of surface conditions on the value, leading to improved estimates of biogenic/anthropogenic gas exchange at the air-sea interface.     

关于风浪预报公式和风区宽度的注记

从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。     

波高与风速联合概率分布研究

基于copula函数论述了两变量的联合概率分布方法.此方法的主要优点是边缘分布可由不同的分布函数构成,变量间可具相关性.以粤东汕尾海域极值波高与相应风速为研究实例,经分析获得以下结果:(1)优选的极值波高和风速可分别由P-Ⅲ型和GEV 分布表示:(2)拟合优度检验指标表明二者的最优连接函数为Archimedean co...     

The response of a hydrofoil to wave orbital velocity fields

For study purposes, a simplified model of a hydrofoil craft is constructed with the assumption that it has:

• heave only motion;

• no surface proximity effect on the foil;

• no foil broaching.

It is then shown that a fully submerged hydrofoil, mounted at the bottom of rigid struts, can transmit large vertical force fluctuations to the hull, even in an idealized sinusoidal seaway because of the orbital velocity field in the water. But if the foil support struts are hinged, inclined aft and resiliently supported, so that the hydrofoil can swing about the strut's pivot in response to the changes in local water velocity, then the vertical accelerations transmitted to the hull are reduced. The more the strut is inclined to the vertical, the smaller are the accelerations transmitted to the hull. A hinged strut whose equilibrium angle (for 1 g) is 60° to the vertical can reduce the vertical accelerations by an order of magnitude. It also has two other practical advantages. The strut(s) and foil will ride up towards horizontal during the rare but inevitable impacts with large marine objects (such as whales or flotsam) and during groundings. And when they encounter a region of water moving rapidly downward (which can cause a conventional fully submerged hydrofoil to experience a violent hull impact on the water) they move in such a way as to maintain a roughly constant lift force on the hull, so that there is negligible hull motion in heave.     

Analysis on the relationship between shear wave velocity and depth of offshore shallow soils

剪切波速是工程场地地震安全性评价最重要的参数之一.应用测试的大量海洋浅层土质的剪切波速数据,利用最小二乘法通过三种模型探讨了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度的关系,给出了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度拟合最佳的统计公式.并与《构筑物抗震设计规范》的推荐公式在某一海域工程场地的测试结果进行对比分析,结果表明:本文所建立的统计公式对剪切波速的预测效果明显好于规范所推荐的统计公式.所推荐的海洋不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度间的统计公式,可供无波速测试的海洋工程场地使用.     

海洋浅层土质剪切波速与深度的关系分析

剪切波速是工程场地地震安全性评价最重要的参数之一。应用测试的大量海洋浅层土质的剪切波速数据,利用最小二乘法通过三种模型探讨了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度的关系,给出了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度拟合最佳的统计公式。并与《构筑物抗震设计规范》的推荐公式在某一海域工程场地的测试结果进行对比分析,结果表明:本文所建立的统计公式对剪切波速的预测效果明显好于规范所推荐的统计公式。所推荐的海洋不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度间的统计公式,可供无波速测试的海洋工程场地使用。     

基于GPS单点测速的海浪测量方法初探

首先分析比对了已有的测波方法,阐述了将GPS单点测速应用到测波中的优点.然后讨论了基于多普勒频移的测速方法,并分析了各类误差对测速精度的影响.最后利用静态数据进行动态测速模拟试验和实测动态数据测速与RTK (Real Time Kinematic,实时动态测量系统)位置差分测速进行—致性检验.结果表明,使用静态数据采用...     

GPS单点测速技术在海浪测量中的应用研究

分析比对了GPS单点测速技术与其他已有测波手段的不同,讨论了基于多普勒频移的GPS测速方法,并分析了各类误差对测速精度的影响。分别利用原始多普勒值和导出多普勒值进行了静态测速试验和动态测速试验,将导出多普勒测速结果与RTK（RealTimeKinematic,实时动态测量系统）位置差分测速进行了比测。结果表明,使用静态数据采用高频导出多普勒值测速的精度可以达到亚厘米级每秒,而采用原始多普勒观测值进行测速因接收机型号的不同,结果差异较大;动态测速试验中,采用导出多普勒测速的方法与RTK位置差分测速的符合精度可达cm／s。     

Practical radiation stress calculations connected with equations of wave propagation

Numerical models of combined surface gravity wave refraction, diffraction and reflection can be solved conveniently in terms of the water surface displacement, η, and a vertically integrated, wave-induced, water particle velocity, Q. However, the normal formulation for the radiation stress components, expressed in terms of the wave energy, wave number and water depth, is correct only for linear progressive waves.This paper describes a method of calculating the radiation stress for a linear progressive wave plus an arbitrary reflected or back-scattered wave in terms of variables η and Q. The calculations are related to a finite-difference scheme. Correction factors are given which compensate for the errors introduced by the use of finite differentials in the calculation of certain elements of radiation stress.The theory upon which the analytical method is based is only exact for water of uniform depth. However, results are presented which show that the errors are not significant (typical error less than ± 2%) for bed slopes of less than 1:3.     

Estimation of undrained shear strength for saturated clay using shear wave velocity

Undrained shear strength is a fundamental parameter for estimating the stability of soft soils. This study explores the relationship between undrained shear strength, void ratio, and shear wave velocity for saturated and normally consolidated clay specimens. The undrained shear strength void ratio-shear wave velocity relationship was correlated to empirically determined parameters of selected marine clay specimens. To verify the proposed relationship between undrained shear strength and shear wave velocity, in situ flat dilatometer tests were used for determining the undrained shear strength, and downhole tests were used to assess the shear wave velocity on a natural soil deposit at various depths. The undrained shear strength estimated from the in situ shear wave velocities was compared to the undrained shear strength obtained in the field. The results show that the inferred undrained shear strength yield similar values and follow the same trends as the in situ undrained shear strength data. This method using shear wave velocity can help to nondestructively estimate the undrained shear strength of soft soils in the field and be used in both on-shore and off-shore geotechnical engineering projects.     

海洋工程设计风速与波高的联合分布

选取我国渤海某处21a的风暴过程后报资料,考虑风暴发生频次的影响,提出泊松二维逻辑分布,并且将其用于海洋石油工程设计中极值风速与波高的联合概率计算,给出了计算海域的风浪设计参数,并与传统的设计标准进行了比较.计算结果表明,新的统计模式适用于受风暴影响海区的海洋工程结构设计,特别是边际油田的开发建设.     

On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function

Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%.     

A note on significant wave height

In this note conservative bounds for significant crest height and amplitude obtained from the crossing intensity of a sea are presented. For Gaussian models of a sea level, the Rayleigh approximation for the distributions of amplitude and crest height is proved to provide conservative values for the expected significant wave characteristics. The results are illustrated by examples in which both Gaussian and non-Gaussian models for a sea are considered.     

A note on nearshore wave features: Implications for wave generation

This paper analyses 10 years of wave data from the Mediterranean Spanish (Catalan) coast considering the mean wave climate and storm events from the standpoint of wind-wave momentum transfer and wave prediction. The data, registered by a buoy at about 12 km from the coastline, revealed two main groups of wave storms, with NW and E directions. NW storms correspond to a fetch-limited situation since the intense wind blows from land. Low-pressure centres located over the Mediterranean Sea produce easterly storms. Near the coast the eastern winds from the sea are replaced by NW winds coming from meteorological patterns over northern Spain and south-western France. Wave storms are classified and studied to obtain their main features (including spectral width, wave length, wave age and bimodality) and discussed in terms of wind-wave momentum transfer for operational wave predictions. Observations show a complex coastal wave climate. Fetch-limited storms presented smaller spectral widths while varying wind situations presented larger widths due to the presence of bimodal spectra. These wave features are highly relevant for wind–ocean momentum transfer and, thus, for current and wave predictions. The spectral width proved to be a good indicator of sea complexity and is thus applicable for improved wind drag estimations. A new drag coefficient formulation is proposed, based on existing wind dependent drag expressions, but including also spectral wave properties (a spectral width parameter) that highlights the characteristics of wind-wave generation under pre-existing swell. Such a formulation, once properly validated with field observations, is expected to improve wind-wave predictions.     

江苏近海地层原位剪切波速相关特性及预测方法研究

剪切波速测试是原位勘测常用且有效的技术之一,其测试成果可用于分析场地土层动力学特性。海洋地层测试条件恶劣,在某些情况下对剪切波速的预测分析尤为重要。为了研究海洋地层精确的剪切波速预测方法,结合江苏近海及潮间带的剪切波速原位测试成果,总结和对比分析了剪切波速预测方法,评判了剪切波速的变化特性和与土体物理力学指标的统计关系。基于广义回归神经网络(GRNN)方法,通过剪切波速与土体各参数的统计关系,建立了剪切波速与土体各物理力学指标的非线性映射关系,进行了剪切波速的预测分析,得到了较好的预测结果。     

耦合模式中海浪参数对台风浪预报的影响研究

以西北太平洋一次"双台风"共同影响下的台风浪为例,针对模式中风摄入和白帽耗散、底摩擦、波破碎、波-波非线性相互作用等海浪物理过程对台风浪预报的影响进行了敏感性试验分析。在此基础上,基于各物理过程最优参数化方案探讨了耦合模式和单独海浪模式的海浪预报性能,分析了耦合模式的海浪预报场分布特征。结果表明:不同海浪物理过程参数化对于波高预报的准确性是有所差异的。在相对最优的海浪各参数化方案组合下,无论耦合模式还是单独海浪模式都能较好地反映波高的变化和分布趋势。相比而言,耦合模式对于台风浪大值区的浪高预报要比单独海浪模式的更接近观测,且可以很好地刻画出双台风影响下浪的分布演变特征,对于西太平洋台风浪的预报具有很好的适用性。     

A numerical model of wave overtopping on seadikes

This paper describes the development of a numerical model for wave overtopping on seadikes. The model is based on the flux-conservative form of the nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) solved with a high order total variation diminishing (TVD), Roe-type scheme. The goal is to reliably predict the hydrodynamics of wave overtopping on the dike crest and along the inner slope, necessary for the breach modelling of seadikes. Besides the mean overtopping rate, the capability of simulating individual overtopping events is also required. It is shown theoretically that the effect of wave breaking through the drastic motion of surface rollers in the surfzone is not sufficiently described by the conventional nonlinear shallow water equations, neglecting wave setup from the mean water level and thus markedly reducing the model predictive capacity for wave overtopping. This is significantly improved by including an additional source term associated with the roller energy dissipation in the depth-averaged momentum equation. The developed model has been validated against four existing laboratory datasets of wave overtopping on dikes. The first two sets are to validate the roller term performance in improving the model prediction of wave overtopping of breaking waves. The last two sets are to test the model performance under more complex but realistic hydraulic and slope geometric conditions. The results confirm the merit of the supplemented roller term and also demonstrate that the model is robust and reliable for the prediction of wave overtopping on seadikes.     

The impact of stratification on the wave velocity field generated by a barotropic tide impinging upon an oceanic ridge

The horizontal wave velocity field generated by a barotropic tide impinging upon a subwater ridge is considered in the linear theory assumptions for long waves. The ocean is assumed to be twolayered, with the tidal wave on-running at an arbitrary angle to the ridge axis. The dependence of the horizontal velocity amplitudes on stratification, the angle of barotropic tide impinging, and the bottom feature geometry is studied.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

A note on the theoretical comparison of wave staffs and wave rider buoys in steep gravity waves

The sea surface displacements measured by a wave staff, fixed in horizontal position, and a wave rider buoy, which moves with the water particles, are compared. Second-order theory shows that, to this approximation, the second harmonic in the surface displacement is not measured by the wave rider. Here a simple approximation to maximum amplitude gravity waves is considered; then a freely floating wave rider gives an approximately sinusoidal record at a lower frequency than the wave, while a tethered wave rider gives results depending on the mooring system. The horizontal motion of a tethered buoy still affects the measurements, particularly of the second and higher harmonics.