Estimating of gas transfer velocity using triple isotopes of dissolved oxygen

The atmosphere-ocean exchange of climatically important gases is determined by the transfer velocity (k) and concentration gradient across the interface. Based on observations in the northwestern subarctic Pacific and Sagami Bay, we report here the results of the first ever application of the natural abundance of triple isotopes of dissolved oxygen (¹⁶O, ¹⁷O and ¹⁸O) for direct estimation of k and propose a new relationship with wind speed. The k values estimated from nighttime variations in oxygen isotopes are found to be higher than the direct estimations at low wind speed (<5 m s⁻¹) and lower at high wind speeds (>13 m s⁻¹) and showed significant spatial variability. The method presented here can be used to derive seasonal and spatial variations in k and the influence of surface conditions on the value, leading to improved estimates of biogenic/anthropogenic gas exchange at the air-sea interface.     

关于风浪预报公式和风区宽度的注记

从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。     

A new predictive formula for inception of regular wave breaking

Efforts are made to enhance the predictive formula for the inception of wave breaking. To achieve success, the existing formulas are extensively reviewed. They are categorized into four types, i.e., the McCowan type, the Miche type, the Goda type and the Munk type. The inherent relations among the different types are then exploited. The differences among each formula within a group are also discussed. Four representative formulas from the different types are chosen to compare with the measured data for a total number of 1193 cases reported in literatures. It is shown that Goda's and Ostendorf and Madsen's formulas are advantageous in general among the selected ones. Goda's formula, however, is found to be inaccurate as the beach slope becomes steeper than 1/10. Ostendorf and Madsen's formula is fairly good even for cases of very steep slopes, but its accuracy for the cases of ordinary slopes is not as good as Goda's. A new predictive formula for the inception of wave breaking is proposed. The unique index, defined by ψ′_b = (1.21 − 3.30λ_b)(1.48 − 0.54γ_b)ψ_b, where ψ_b = gH_b/C_b², H_b is the breaking wave height, C_b is the breaking wave celerity, λ_b is the breaking wave steepness, γ_b is the relative breaking wave height, and g is the gravity acceleration, is introduced. The incipient condition of wave breaking is then given by ψ′_b = 0.69. This formula is a significant improvement to the existing ones in terms of the accuracy. In addition, it is a local relation. Further verification shows that the proposed formula performs similarly well when applied to the field and to the waves over permeable bed.     

Global air-sea surface carbon-dioxide transfer velocity and flux estimated using ERS-2 data and a new parametric formula

Using data from the European remote sensing scatterometer（ERS-2） from July 1997 to August 1998,global distributions of the air-sea CO₂ transfer velocity and flux are retrieved.A new model of the air-sea CO₂ transfer velocity with surface wind speed and wave steepness is proposed.The wave steepness（5） is retrieved using a neural network（NN） model from ERS-2 scatterometer data,while the wind speed is directly derived by the ERS-2 scatterometer.The new model agrees well with the formulations based on the wind speed and the variation in the wind speed dependent relationships presented in many previous studies can be explained by this proposed relation with variation in wave steepness effect.Seasonally global maps of gas transfer velocity and llux are shown on the basis of the new model and the seasonal variations of the transfer velocity and llux during the 1 a period.The global mean gas transfer velocity is 30 cm/h after area-weighting and Schmidt number correction and its accuracy remains calculation with in situ data.The highest transfer velocity occurs around 60°N and 60°S,while the lowest on the equator.The total air to sea CO₂ llux（calculated by carbon） in that year is 1.77 Pg.The strongest source of CO₂ is in the equatorial east Pacific Ocean, while the strongest sink is in the 68°N.Full exploration of the uncertainty of this estimate awaits further data.An effectual method is provided to calculate the effect of waves on the determination of air-sea CO₂ transfer velocity and fluxes with ERS-2 scatterometer data.     

强非线性规则波在防波堤上爬高公式研究

为了研究波浪非线性对爬高的影响,解决防波堤等工程设计的实际问题,通过对数学模型试验、物理模型试验、规范公式得到的防波堤波浪爬高对比分析,分析了非线性主要影响参数厄塞尔数、相对水深和波陡对波浪爬高的影响规律,指出规范公式计算时存在的缺陷,并对其计算公式、适用范围进行修正、拟合,得到了强非线性规则波浪爬高的计算方法,可适用于斜坡堤断面的波浪爬高计算,与物理模型试验和数学模型试验结果对比表明,新的波浪爬高计算公式具有较好的计算精度,研究结果可为防波堤等实际工程设计提供重要参考。     

波高与风速联合概率分布研究

基于copula函数论述了两变量的联合概率分布方法.此方法的主要优点是边缘分布可由不同的分布函数构成,变量间可具相关性.以粤东汕尾海域极值波高与相应风速为研究实例,经分析获得以下结果:(1)优选的极值波高和风速可分别由P-Ⅲ型和GEV 分布表示:(2)拟合优度检验指标表明二者的最优连接函数为Archimedean co...     

Practical considerations on nonlinear stiffness system for wave energy converter

Mechanical restoration of a point absorber (PA) wave energy converter (WEC) featured a nonlinear stiffness system built by conventional mechanical compression springs (NSMech). Numerical simulations conducted here considered irregular waves in a specific sea site. Results showed considerable improvement for a given suitable spring configuration (length and stiffness parameters). However, practical implementation of NSMech imposed limiting constraints on the geometrical and physical characteristics of the mechanical compression springs. Such constraints limited very much the feasible region of NSMech configurations, restricting significantly applications for wave energy converter. One alternative approach using pneumatic cylinder springs proved to overcome such a limitation aggregating obvious advantages with fewer elements and bringing more enhancement to the WEC performance.     

基于SAR图像速度聚束调制的海浪反演研究

本文首先对合成孔径雷达（SAR）海浪成像中的3种调制（倾斜调制、流体力学调制与速度聚束调制）的影响进行了对比分析,结果显示：速度聚束调制对SAR图像的影响最为显著。另外,由于SAR图像中固有相干斑噪声的存在,较低波数范围的噪声难以滤除或抑制,利用经典MPI方法反演海浪谱会造成低波数范围谱值偏大。基于此,本文借鉴经典MPI海浪谱反演算法,建立了基于速度聚束调制的海浪方位向斜率谱和有效波高的反演算法。通过将经典MPI方法、同极化调制法及本文算法等3种海浪反演方法所得有效波高与浮标数据进行比较,结果显示：本文方法反演得到的海浪有效波高与浮标数据获得的有效波高之间的均方误差为0.79 m,为3种方法中最小。     

应用特征波预报公式进行台风浪计算的一个根本缺陷

Wilson方法和井岛方法均是移动风区上著名的波浪推算方法,被广泛应用于台风波浪的推算和预报上。本文通过分析指出:使用上述方法以海洋工程界所推行的风浪预报公式作台风浪推算时,所得特征波波陡将与台风浪实测波陡分布定性不符,并指出产生这种缺陷的原因。     

海-气二氧化碳交换速度影响因子的定量估计

影响海-气二氧化碳（CO₂）交换速度的多种因子已经讨论了很多年,但对各种因子的贡献却很少进行定量估计。为了更好地了解海-气交换的机制,我们讨论了不同因子对海-气交换速度的影响,并对描述海-气交换现象的各种参数化模型进行了分类和比较。然后,基于GAS EX-98和ASGAMAGE数据,我们评估了风速模型,并使用分段平均法定量地讨论了一些因子的影响,包括泡沫,波浪,风等,并考虑了它们之间的相互作用。我们发现,海-气CO₂交换速度不仅仅是风速的函数,也会受到泡沫,波浪参数和其他因素的影响。我们使用了逐步回归法和线性回归法。当考虑风速,泡沫媒介和显著波高时,均方根误差由34.53 cm·h^-1减少到16.96 cm·h^-1。定量地讨论各种因子,对于将来评估大空间尺度和长时间序列的海-气CO₂通量和全球变化是有用的。     

Partial safety factor system for Tetrapod armor layer depending on shape parameter of extreme wave height distribution

During the last decade, partial safety factor systems have been adopted in the design standards of coastal structures, which are based on probabilistic theories but have a format similar to the traditional safety factor system. Tetrapod is one of the widely used breakwater armor units in the world. The previous partial safety factor system was developed based on limited wave and structure data in several locations. In this paper, a partial safety factor system for Tetrapod armor units is developed by performing reliability analysis and optimal code calibration for 116 breakwater cross-sections and wave conditions in 31 harbors in Korea. The partial safety factors associated with different ranges of the shape parameter of the Weibull extreme wave height distribution for different target probabilities of failure are proposed. For other types of extreme distributions, the skewness of the distribution should be calculated and the partial safety factors of the Weibull distribution of the same skewness could be used (the skewness of the Weibull distribution changes with the shape parameter). The developed system is applied to existing breakwaters to examine its applicability.     

深水中极限波峰下速度场快速算法

基于五阶斯托克斯规则波理论,提出了一种快速求解深水极限波峰下速度场的数学模型.研究中,按照上跨零点和下跨零点的方法由计算或实测的极限波浪波面时间历程确定包含极限波峰的相邻两个周期的平均值为五阶斯托克斯规则波的波浪周期,然后根据极限波峰反推确定波浪入射波幅.通过与已有的数值结果和实验数据对比,验证了所建立的数值模型可以快速准确的计算出极限波峰下的速度场,相比其他模型,更适合于工程应用.     

The response of a hydrofoil to wave orbital velocity fields

For study purposes, a simplified model of a hydrofoil craft is constructed with the assumption that it has:

• heave only motion;

• no surface proximity effect on the foil;

• no foil broaching.

It is then shown that a fully submerged hydrofoil, mounted at the bottom of rigid struts, can transmit large vertical force fluctuations to the hull, even in an idealized sinusoidal seaway because of the orbital velocity field in the water. But if the foil support struts are hinged, inclined aft and resiliently supported, so that the hydrofoil can swing about the strut's pivot in response to the changes in local water velocity, then the vertical accelerations transmitted to the hull are reduced. The more the strut is inclined to the vertical, the smaller are the accelerations transmitted to the hull. A hinged strut whose equilibrium angle (for 1 g) is 60° to the vertical can reduce the vertical accelerations by an order of magnitude. It also has two other practical advantages. The strut(s) and foil will ride up towards horizontal during the rare but inevitable impacts with large marine objects (such as whales or flotsam) and during groundings. And when they encounter a region of water moving rapidly downward (which can cause a conventional fully submerged hydrofoil to experience a violent hull impact on the water) they move in such a way as to maintain a roughly constant lift force on the hull, so that there is negligible hull motion in heave.     

基于图像测速的波浪破碎两相速度场测量方案探讨

针对波浪破碎试验中气泡区速度与水体速度无法同时测量的难题,基于实验室条件,搭建了粒子图像测速（PIV）和气泡图像测速（BIV）系统,采用声学多普勒测速仪（ADV）对PIV测量精度和不同场景下BIV测量精度进行了细致的验证,并设计多种试验方案以期实现BIV与PIV的同步耦合测量。试验结果表明,7W激光+后置灯的优化照明方案,其耦合测量的气泡区速度代表参数与标准BIV照明方案的结果误差小于5%,且耦合测量的气泡区下方水质点的速度曲线与标准PIV测量结果吻合,表明该改进方案满足PIV与BIV耦合测量的条件。本文实现的PIV与BIV耦合测量有利于优化测量和分析工作,减小破碎波浪重复生成的影响,有利于提高测量精度,为大范围波浪破碎速度场的快速测量提供了新的方案。     

浅化波浪层流边界层流速分布特性的数值分析

建立了同时考虑波致雷诺应力和时均水平压强梯度影响的二阶波浪边界层数学模型,模型计算得到的浅化波浪层流边界层内瞬时流速剖面、振荡速度幅值和时均流速剖面均与水槽实验数据吻合较好,在此基础上探讨了浅化波浪边界层流速分布特性及其影响机制。随着波浪的浅化变形,边界层内时均流速剖面"底部向岸、上部离岸"的变化特征越来越明显。这是二阶对流项引起的波致雷诺应力和离岸回流引起的时均水平压强梯度共同作用的结果,在床面附近由波致雷诺应力占主导作用并趋于引起向岸流动,在上部区域由时均水平压强梯度占主导作用并趋于引起离岸流动。     

Joint modelling of wave spectral parameters for extreme sea states

Characterising the dependence between extremes of wave spectral parameters such as significant wave height (H_S) and spectral peak period (T_P) is important in understanding extreme ocean environments and in the design and assessment of marine structures. For example, it is known that mean values of wave periods tend to increase with increasing storm intensity. Here we seek to characterise joint dependence in a straightforward manner, accessible to the ocean engineering community, using a statistically sound approach.Many methods of multivariate extreme value analyses are based on models which assume implicitly that in some joint tail region each parameter is either independent of or asymptotically dependent on other parameters; yet in reality the dependence structure in general is neither of these. The underpinning assumption of multivariate regular variation restricts these methods to estimation of joint regions in which all parameters are extreme; but regions where only a subset of parameters are extreme can be equally important for design. The conditional approach of Heffernan and Tawn (2004), similar in spirit to that of Haver (1985) but with better theoretical foundation, overcomes these difficulties.We use the conditional approach to characterise the dependence structure of H_S and T_P. The key elements of the procedure are: (1) marginal modelling for all parameters, (2) transformation of data to a common standard Gumbel marginal form, (3) modelling dependence between data for extremes of pairs of parameters using a form of regression, (4) simulation of long return periods to estimate joint extremes. We demonstrate the approach in application to measured and hindcast data from the Northern North Sea, the Gulf of Mexico and the North West Shelf of Australia. We also illustrate the use of data re-sampling techniques such as bootstrapping to estimate the uncertainty in marginal and dependence models and accommodate this uncertainty in extreme quantile estimation.We discuss the current approach in the context of other approaches to multivariate extreme value estimation popular in the ocean engineering community.     

Analysis on the relationship between shear wave velocity and depth of offshore shallow soils

剪切波速是工程场地地震安全性评价最重要的参数之一.应用测试的大量海洋浅层土质的剪切波速数据,利用最小二乘法通过三种模型探讨了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度的关系,给出了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度拟合最佳的统计公式.并与《构筑物抗震设计规范》的推荐公式在某一海域工程场地的测试结果进行对比分析,结果表明:本文所建立的统计公式对剪切波速的预测效果明显好于规范所推荐的统计公式.所推荐的海洋不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度间的统计公式,可供无波速测试的海洋工程场地使用.     

海洋浅层土质剪切波速与深度的关系分析

剪切波速是工程场地地震安全性评价最重要的参数之一。应用测试的大量海洋浅层土质的剪切波速数据,利用最小二乘法通过三种模型探讨了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度的关系,给出了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度拟合最佳的统计公式。并与《构筑物抗震设计规范》的推荐公式在某一海域工程场地的测试结果进行对比分析,结果表明:本文所建立的统计公式对剪切波速的预测效果明显好于规范所推荐的统计公式。所推荐的海洋不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度间的统计公式,可供无波速测试的海洋工程场地使用。     

Practical radiation stress calculations connected with equations of wave propagation

Numerical models of combined surface gravity wave refraction, diffraction and reflection can be solved conveniently in terms of the water surface displacement, η, and a vertically integrated, wave-induced, water particle velocity, Q. However, the normal formulation for the radiation stress components, expressed in terms of the wave energy, wave number and water depth, is correct only for linear progressive waves.This paper describes a method of calculating the radiation stress for a linear progressive wave plus an arbitrary reflected or back-scattered wave in terms of variables η and Q. The calculations are related to a finite-difference scheme. Correction factors are given which compensate for the errors introduced by the use of finite differentials in the calculation of certain elements of radiation stress.The theory upon which the analytical method is based is only exact for water of uniform depth. However, results are presented which show that the errors are not significant (typical error less than ± 2%) for bed slopes of less than 1:3.