Shelf habitat distribution as a legacy of Late Quaternary marine transgressions: A case study from a tropical carbonate province

The legacy of multiple marine transgressions is preserved in a complex morphology of ridges, mounds and reefs on the Carnarvon continental shelf, Western Australia. High-resolution multibeam sonar mapping, underwater photography and sampling across a 280 km² area seaward of the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage Area shows that these raised features provide hardground habitat for modern coral and sponge communities. Prominent among these features is a 20 m high and 15 km long shore-parallel ridge at 60 m water depth. This ridge preserves the largely unaltered form of a fringing reef and is interpreted as the predecessor to modern Ningaloo Reef. Landward of the drowned reef, the inner shelf is covered by hundreds of mounds (bommies) up to 5 m high and linear ridges up to 1.5 km long and 16 m high. The ridges are uniformly oriented to the north-northeast and several converge at their landward limit. On the basis of their shape and alignment, these ridges are interpreted as relict long-walled parabolic dunes. Their preservation is attributed to cementation of calcareous sands to form aeolianite, prior to the post-glacial marine transgression. Some dune ridges abut areas of reef that rise to sea level and are highly irregular in outline but maintain a broad shore-parallel trend. These are tentatively interpreted as Last Interglacial in age. The mid-shelf and outer shelf are mostly sediment covered with relatively low densities of epibenthic biota and have patches of low-profile ridges that may also be relict reef shorelines. An evolutionary model for the Carnarvon shelf is proposed that relates the formation of drowned fringing reefs and aeolian dunes to Late Quaternary eustatic sea level.     

Mercury levels in coral reefs along the Caribbean coast of Central America

Sediment and coral skeleton samples from 23 coral reefs along the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica and Panama (1497 km) were evaluated for total mercury (Hg). High levels of pollution were found in the entire region with averages of 18.9 and 71.3 ppb in coral skeletons and sediments respectively. Significantly higher contamination was found in Panamanian corals (21.4 ppb) while compared to Costa Rican reef sediments (85.9 ppb). Hg from several processes and non-point sources (e.g., erosion, runoff, flooding, mining, overuse of agrochemicals, industrial waste, ports, and refineries) may have affected the entire region. The widespread observed distribution suggests that Hg is being carried along long distances within the region due to its high concentrations found in “pristine” reefs. Forest burning and colonial mining residues may be considered as possible contamination factors.     

Hydrodynamic response of a fringing coral reef to a rise in mean sea level

Ningaloo Reef, located along the northwest coast of Australia, is one of the longest fringing coral reefs in the world extending ~300 km. Similar to other fringing reefs, it consists of a barrier reef ~1–6 km offshore with occasional gaps, backed by a shallow lagoon. Wave breaking on the reef generates radiation stress gradients that produces wave setup across the reef and lagoon and mean currents across the reef. A section of Ningaloo Reef at Sandy Bay was chosen as the focus of an intense 6-week field experiment and numerical simulation using the wave model SWAN coupled to the three-dimensional circulation model ROMS. The physics of nearshore processes such as wave breaking, wave setup and mean flow across the reef was investigated in detail by examining the various momentum balances established in the system. The magnitude of the terms and the distance of their peaks from reef edge in the momentum balance were sensitive to the changes in mean sea level, e.g. the wave forces decreased as the mean water depth increased (and hence, wave breaking dissipation was reduced). This led to an increase in the wave power at the shoreline, a slight shift of the surf zone to the lee side of the reef and changes in the intensity of the circulation. The predicted hydrodynamic fields were input into a Lagrangian particle tracking model to estimate the transport time scale of the reef-lagoon system. Flushing time of the lagoon with the open ocean was computed using two definitions in renewal of semi-enclosed water basins and revealed the sensitivity of such a transport time scale to methods. An increase in the lagoon exchange rate at smaller mean sea-level rise and the decrease at higher mean sea-level rise was predicted through flushing time computed using both methods.     

A relic coral fauna threatened by global changes and human activities, Eastern Brazil

Coral species composition of drilled cores from emergent bank reefs, and coral cover of the surface of old and living reefs located along the coast of the state of Bahia, Eastern Brazil, revealed that there is a marked change in the occurrence of the major building coral species in different time intervals of the reef structure, as well as in the living surface of reefs located in two different geographical sites. Holocene core sections from two reef areas (12 degrees 40'S-38 degrees 00'W and 18 degrees 00'S-39 degrees 00'W) have as major reef builders, on its topmost core interval (3 to 4 ky old), the endemic coral Mussismilia braziliensis Verrill, 1868, which also dominate on the 2.5-3.5 ky old surfaces of truncated reef tops. At the base of the cores (the 2m lower interval, older than 4 ky BP), another endemic coral Mussismilia harttii Verrill, 1868 is the dominant reef component. The relative abundance of M. braziliensis on the living surfaces of shallow reefs from both areas, shows that in the southern area, it is up to 98% on reefs located 60 km off the coast, in depths between 3 and 4m, but do not exceed 1.3% on the surface of the northern reefs located 1-2 km off the coast in depths 4-5m. The Holocene falling sea level that occurred along the coast of Brazil since 5.1 ky BP, causes an increasing runoff into the area of coastal reefs. This phenomenon may have affected the nearshore reef building fauna, replacing a more susceptive coral fauna with one better adapted to low light levels and higher sediment influx. The high turbidity associated with early Holocene shelf flooding, should also be responsible for the absence of M. braziliensis during the initial stages of reef buildup in Brazil. At the present time, the rapidly increasing human pressure, due to changes in land uses of the coastal zone (increasing sedimentation rate, nutrification of coastal waters, industrial pollution) and underwater practices, such as overfishing and an intense tourism, is aggravating the recovery capacity of this already naturally threatened coral community. If this situation coupled with increasing sea surface temperature persists, modern coral reef growth, in Brazil cannot be maintained and the major reef building coral species of the reefs in Bahia, a remnant endemic coral fauna will very soon appear in the list of endangered species.     

The effect of velocity veering on sand transport in a shallow sea

This study aims at comparing and contrasting two different models for sand transport by currents in a shallow sea to illustrate the effect of velocity veering. The first model uses the Bailard-type formulation, which allows calculation of erosion/deposition rates at a fixed location on the sea floor via the divergence of horizontal sediment fluxes. The second model is a semi-analytical 2.5-dimensional model, which takes into account the time lag between erosion and deposition events and the velocity veering within the sediment-laden (nepheloid) layer caused by the Coriolis force. The velocity veering implies that the direction of the sediment flux is generally different from the direction of the surface flow. The latter model was designed for rapid, semi-analytical computations of sediment transport, using flow fields from 2-DH numerical models. The two models use a matching set of parameters to provide identical values for the bottom stress and suspended sediment load for a uniform steady current at any given surface velocity. The two models were compared in a range of sand grain sizes 50–500 m and current speeds up to 1 m s^–1 for an idealised square region (100 × 100 km) of a shelf sea of constant depth. The erosion/deposition patterns and suspension load were examined in three settings: (1) uniform steady flow, (2) straight jet, (3) meandering jet. It was found that both the rates and, in particular, the spatial distribution of the areas of erosion/deposition differ significantly between the models in cases (2) and (3). This difference can be attributed to additional flux divergence due to velocity veering. A comparison of model results with field data, collected at Long Island Shelf, supports the relevance of Coriolis-induced veering of currents on the direction of the sediment flux.Responsible Editor: Jens Kappenberg     

Cyclone-induced net sediment transport pathway on the continental shelf of tropical Australia inferred from reef talus deposits

Tropical cyclones affect storm-dominated sediment transport processes that characterise Holocene shelf deposits in many shelf environments. A summary of cyclone-associated deposits in the Great Barrier Reef published by Larcombe and Carter [2004. Cyclone pumping, sediment partitioning and the development of the Great Barrier Reef shelf system: a review. Quaternary Science Reviews 23, pp. 107–135 indicates a pervasive northwards orientation of deposits on the lee side of reefs and other obstacles. In this paper, we describe the geomorphology of reef talus deposits found in the Gulf of Carpentaria and Arafura Sea, Australia, that we attribute to tropical cyclones. The orientation of these deposits is also indicative of a consistent, along-coast transport pathway. The deposits are located on the leeward side of submerged coral reefs; they are up to 10 m in thickness, comprised of re-worked carbonate sand and gravel and radiocarbon dating indicates that they are of Holocene age. An explanation for the consistent along-coast cyclone transport pathway is presented based on previously published hydrodynamic modelling results. These models illustrate how currents generated by the passage of a cyclone are asymmetric in plan view, such that stronger flows are generated between the eye of the cyclone and the coast. The result of the passage of many cyclones over geologic timescales is a net along-coast sediment transport pathway located on the inner- to mid-shelf, possibly extending over the entire length of northern Australia's coastline. This process provides an explanation for the observed sediment transport patterns on modern tropical continental shelves, as well as a basis for the interpretation of ancient tropical shelf deposits.     

Modelling larval dispersal and settlement of the reef-building polychaete Sabellaria alveolata: Role of hydroclimatic processes on the sustainability of biogenic reefs

The honeycomb worm Sabellaria alveolata forms biogenic reefs which constitute diversity hotspots on tidal flats. The largest known reefs in Europe, located in the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel (English Channel), are suffering increasing anthropogenic disturbances which raise the question of their sustainability. As the ability to recover depends partly on the recolonization of damaged reefs by larval supply, evaluating larval dispersal and the connectivity between distant reefs is a major challenge for their conservation. In the present study, we used a 3D biophysical model to simulate larval dispersal under realistic hydroclimatic conditions and estimate larval retention and exchanges among the two reefs of different sizes within the bay. The model takes into account fine-scale hydrodynamic circulation (800×800 m²), advection–diffusion larval transport, and gregarious settlement behaviour. According to the field data, larval dispersal was simulated for a minimal planktonic larval duration ranging from 4 to 8 weeks and the larval mortality was set to 0.09 d⁻¹. The results highlighted the role played by a coastal eddy on larval retention within the bay, as suggested by previous in situ observations. Very different dispersal patterns were revealed depending on the spawning reef location, although the two reefs were located only 15 km apart. The settlement success of the larvae released from the smallest reef was mainly related to tidal conditions at spawning, with the highest settlement success for releases at neap tide. The settlement success of the larvae from the biggest reef was more dependent on meteorological conditions: favourable W and SW winds may promote a ten-fold increase in settlement success. Strong year-to-year variability was observed in settlers’ numbers, with favourable environmental windows not always coinciding with the main reproductive periods of Sabellaria. Settlement kinetics indicated that the ability to delay metamorphosis could significantly improve the settlement success. Although bidirectional exchanges occurred between the two reefs, the highest settlers’ numbers originated from the biggest reef because of its stronger reproductive output. Because of the recent decline of this reef due to increasing anthropogenic disturbances larval supply in the bay may not be sufficient enough to ensure the sustainability of the remarkable habitat formed by Sabellaria alveolata reefs.     

Field observations of wave refraction and propagation pathways on coral reef platforms

Field experiments were conducted to investigate the refraction and propagation of ocean waves across two coral reef platforms in the Maldives, central Indian Ocean. A total of seven pressure sensors were deployed on each reef to quantify temporal and spatial variations in wave characteristics across the platform surfaces. Directional wave properties were calculated from high frequency (2 Hz) wave and current records obtained at two locations on each reef and corroborate theoretically predicted propagation pathways derived from an analytical wave refraction model. Results demonstrate that reef geometry critically controls the refraction and propagation behaviour of incident swell across the reef structures. Differences in the magnitude of refraction (approximately 57° and 14°) observed on each reef can be attributed to variations in platform shape and orientation to incident waves. Results demonstrate that reef flat wave patterns define the segmentation of platform surfaces into distinctive high and low wave energy zones. Furthermore, wave focussing has been identified as a major mechanism controlling the transformation of wave energy across the reefs. Results provide the first field‐based validation of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and have significant implications for sedimentation processes and the formation of platform deposits. Reef configurations which promote marked wave convergence are more likely to retain sediment on the reef surface, whereas platforms that induce less refraction and changes in the direction of incident waves have a higher potential for the off‐reef evacuation of sediment over leeward reef margins. Results of wave measurements substantiate such projections and provide a first order explanation for the existence and absence of a coral cay on the two study reefs. The study presents empirical evidence of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and establishes a baseline for future investigations of hydrodynamic process controls on platform sedimentation and island formation. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The anomalous tides near Broad Sound

Observations of tidal current and height, in conjunction with theoretical mathematical models are used to investigate the propagation of the tide near Broad Sound, a narrowing estuary situated on a wide section of continental shelf toward the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. The observations indicate that the dense offshore reefs severely inhibit tidal flow, with the result that tides flood toward Broad Sound from the north and from the south, along the main lagoon. There is a local magnification of the semi-diurnal tides within Broad Sound itself.Models of flow across reefs confirm the effectiveness of dense, shallow, and broad reefs in acting as a barrier to the tide. The diffraction of tides through large gaps in the reef is modelled using conformal mapping techniques and with the inclusion of energy leakage, the diffraction model predicts magnification of the semi-diurnal tidal heights by a factor of about 4 and a phase lag of 3 h on the shelf near Broad Sound, these values being consistent with observation. The observed convergence of the tide close to, and within Broad Sound itself is consistent with the proximity of the semi-diurnal tidal period to the natural period for flow in Broad Sound, considered as a narrowing estuary. This results in further amplification, by an additional factor of about 1.5, so that the tides in Broad Sound are increased by a factor of between 5 and 6, altogether, compared with those elsewhere on the east Australian coast.     

Geothermal profile and crust-mantle transition beneath east-central Queensland: Volcanology, xenolith petrology and seismic data

Geothermobarometry of garnet granulite and garnet websterite xenoliths in basalts from numerous localities in east-central Queensland gives P-T points that fall along the geotherm previously defined for southeastern Australia. This elevated geotherm is ascribed to the advective transport of heat by Tertiary-Recent magmas ponded at the crust-mantle boundary. The lower crust in this region consists dominantly of mafic granulites, representing frozen basaltic melts and cumulates. Spinel lherzolite becomes a dominant rock type at depths of ca. 30 km, and persists, interlayered with pyroxenites, to depths of ca. 55 km. Seismic reflection profiles show a “layered lower crust” between depths of 20 and 36 km depth. The lithologically defined crust-mantle boundary lies within this zone, at least 6 km above the seismically defined Moho. This interpretation is consistent with the observed velocity (V_p) gradient downward through the layered zone. The constructed geotherm implies that the bottom of the lithosphere beneath eastern Australia is shallower than ca. 100 km. This makes it unlikely that the diamonds of eastern Australia are derived from local intrusions, unless these are > 200 Ma old.     

Diurnal sea breeze effects on inner-shelf cross-shore exchange

Cross-shore exchange by strong (cross-shore wind stress, τ_sx>0.05 Pa) diurnal (7–25 h) sea breeze events are investigated using two years of continuous wind, wave, and ocean velocity profiles in 13 m water depth on the inner-shelf in Marina, Monterey bay, California. The diurnal surface wind stress, waves, and currents have spectral peaks at 1, 2, and 3 cpd and the diurnal variability represents about 50% of the total variability. During sea breeze relaxation (−0.05<τ_sx<0.05 Pa), a background wave-driven inner-shelf Eulerian undertow profile exists, which is equal and opposite to the Lagrangian Stokes drift profile, resulting in a net zero Lagrangian transport at depth. In the presence of a sea breeze (τ_sx>0.05 Pa), a uniform offshore profile develops that is different from the background undertow profile allowing cross-shore Lagrangian transport to develop, while including Lagrangian Stokes drift. The diurnal cross-shore current response is similar to subtidal (>25 h) cross-shore current response, as found by Fewings et al. (2008). The seasonality of waves and winds modify the diurnal sea breeze impact. It is suggested that material is not transported cross-shore except during sea breeze events owing to near zero transport during relaxation periods. During sea breeze events, cross-shore exchange of material appears to occur onshore near the surface and offshore near the sea bed. Since sea breeze events last for a few hours, the long-term cross-shore transport is incremental each day.     

Spatial variability in community structure of Dictyoceratida sponges across Torres Strait,Australia

Spatial variability in community structure of dictyoceratid sponges (class Demospongiae; order Dictyoceratida) was examined on coral reefs in Torres Strait, an archipelago of islands and reefs between northern Queensland, Australia, and Papua New Guinea. Dictyoceratid sponge abundances and environmental factors were recorded at four locations, separated by 50–220 km. Each location was subdivided into 5–7 sites, each ?2 km apart. At each site, four 50×2 m belt transects were quantitatively surveyed, recording the dictyoceratid numbers, substrate type (rock, rubble and sand), water clarity, degree of reef slope and depth. Dictyoceratid abundance was similar among locations over large spatial scales, averaging 15.5 individuals per 100 m², but varied significantly among sites within particular locations (i.e. small scale heterogeneity). Twenty-three dictyoceratid species were recorded in Torres Strait, with approximately half (12/23) found in only one location. The canonical correspondence analysis determined that the measured environmental factors explained only 26% of the spatial variation. Cluster analysis revealed a complex dictyoceratid community structure with similarities among neighbouring sites and among sites separated by hundreds of kilometres. Conversely the abundance and composition of dictyoceratids could vary greatly between neighbouring sites 2 km apart and on the same reef complex. The results of this study suggest that spatial variability of dictyoceratid sponges in Torres Strait is influenced by a combination of environmental, biological and stochastic processes.     

The entrance of pyroclastic flows into the sea, II. theoretical considerations on subaqueous emplacement and welding

The submarine counterparts of late Quaternary subaerial pyroclastic flow deposits off the western flanks of Dominica, Lesser Antilles, have been investigated by 3.5 kHz seismic profiling and dredging (cruise EN20 of R/V “Endeavor”). Block-and-ash flow deposits formed by dome collapse and a welded ignimbrite from a prominent fan at Grande Savanne, Dominica. This fan can be traced underwater as a major constructional ridge (2–4 km wide and 200–400 m thick) to over 13 km offshore at a water depth of 1800 m. The submarine ridge has a volume of 14 km³ and has the characteristic morphology of a debris flow apron composed of several individual units. The evidence suggests that pyroclastic flows can move underwater without losing their essential character.     

Modeling and observations of high-frequency flow variability and internal waves at a Caribbean reef spawning aggregation site

The characteristics and forcing mechanisms of high-frequency flow variations (periods of minutes to days) were investigated near Gladden Spit, a reef promontory off the coast of Belize. Direct field observations and a high-resolution (50-m grid size) numerical ocean model are used to describe the flow variations that impact the initial dispersion of eggs and larvae from this site, which serves as a spawning aggregation site for many species of reef fishes. Idealized sensitivity model experiments isolate the role of various processes, such as internal waves, wind, tides, and large-scale flow variations. The acute horizontal curvature and steep topography of the reef intensify the flow, create small-scale convergence and divergence zones, and excite high-frequency oscillations and internal waves. Although the tides in this area are relatively small (∼10-cm amplitude), the model simulations show that tides can excite significant high-frequency flow variations near the reef, which suggests that the preference of fish to aggregate and spawn in the days following the time of full moon may not be coincidental. Even small variations in remote flows (2–5 cm s⁻¹) due to say, meso-scale eddies, are enough to excite near-reef oscillations. Model simulations and the observations further suggest that the spawning site at the tip of the reef provides initial strong dispersion for eggs, but then the combined influence of the along-isobath flow and the westward wind will transport the eggs and larvae downstream of Gladden Spit toward less turbulent region, which may contribute to enhanced larval survival.     

Nature of the upper crust beneath central Tibet

A wide-angle reflection/refraction seismic line obtained through Sino-French joint research near the Bangung-Nujiang Suture in Tibet [1] yielded crustal velocity estimates for both P and S waves. AV_p/V_s ratio of 1.65 was derived fo waves propagating in the upper ( < 25 km) crust. According to the high-pressure, high-temperature velocity measurements of Kern [2] and others, such a ratio implies the presence of quartz-rich rocks, e.g., granites and granitic gneisses, in the upper Tibetan crust. Because of the high geothermal gradient in Tibet ( > 50°C/km near the surface), a shallow low-velocity zone is expected to form in a granitic upper crust for both P and S waves. A two-dimensional ray-tracing study indicates that the observed first P and S waves [1] can be interpreted as diving waves above a low-velocity zone where a positive gradient exists. The low-velocity zone commences at a depth of 10 km and extends possibly to 20 km or deeper.     

Eddy energetics in the Faroe-Shetland channel: a model resolution study

Observations indicate that, perhaps as a result of intense shears produced by the topographic steering of the slope current and merging of the warm North Atlantic water with cold Nordic waters, the Faroe-Shetland Channel is a fertile ground for energetic eddies and meanders. How these meso-scale ( 10 km) features are resolved in a three-dimensional numerical model is studied here with grid-nesting, in which the convergence of the simulated energetics is examined as a function of grid sizes Δ =10, 10/3, 10/5 and 10/7 km. Large-scale forcing to the fine-grid nest consists of steady slope-current transport (2 Sv) and north/south climatological density difference only. The mean fields were found to converge at Δ = 10/3 km, but the eddy fields required Δ = 2 km or less. At the finest grids, meso-scale features more in conformity with those observed were found: meanders with amplitudes of O(10 km) and along-slope propagation speeds of about 0.14 m s- 1 cross-channel vacillation of the slope current, with amplitude of about 10 km and periods of 5–10 days, and vertical excursions of isotherms of O(100 m). The meanders were highly ageostrophic (ζ/f> 1, ζ=relative vorticity, f = Coriolis parameter), and developed as a result of conditions favorable to flow instability originated from south of the channel. When adequately resolved, the meander energetics are comparable to those produced by (large-scale) winds, which suggests that a high-resolution grid (Δ < 2 km) will be required for hindcast and forecast studies.     

Cold anticyclonic eddies formed from cold pool water in the southern Middle Atlantic Bight

AVHRR satellite imagery of the southern Mid-Atlantic Bight during May 1993 revealed a large area of cold water over the shelf break and slope that appeared to spin up into a series of southward propagating anticyclonic eddies. The eddies had diameters of 35–45 km at the surface and moved southward at about 20 cm/sec. A radial TOYO CTD (to 50m) and ADCP velocity (to 400m) transect was conducted across the southern-most of these eddies. The upper 50 meters had minimum temperatures of less than 7°C and salinities of about 33 pss, characteristics similar to cold pool waters usually found over the continental shelf. ADCP velocity data from one of the eddies revealed anticyclonic flow extending to a depth of about 250m. The transport of cold pool water by the eddies was estimated to be 0.1 to 0.2 Sv which is of the same order as the annual mean alongshore transport of shelf water in this region. The origin of the deeper water within the eddy is unlikely to be the continental shelf because the shelf break is less than 100 m. The depth and velocity profiles along the TOYO transect were consistent with the constant potential vorticity eddy model of Flierl (1979) although the source of the eddy kinetic energy is uncertain. The cause for the exodus of cold pool water from the shelf, which extended northward to at least 38°N, is unclear but must involve the establishment of an alongshore baroclinic pressure gradient against the usual southwestward shelf flow. It is possible that the intrusion of Gulf Stream waters onto the shelf near Cape Hatteras was a precursor of this off shelf transport. The southern-most eddy was marked by high biological productivity and very high oxygen supersaturation. The phytoplankton bloom detected within the exported cold pool water, located over the continental slope, suggests a mechanism whereby production fueled by nutrients derived from the shelf can be locally exported into deep water.     

Distribution of boulders at Miyara Bay of Ishigaki Island,Japan: A flow characteristic indicator of tsunami and storm waves

This study investigates the distribution of boulders at Miyara Bay of Ishigaki Island, Japan. These boulders were deposited on a reef flat extending approximately 400–1300 m in width. Most boulders were rectangular to ellipsoidal, without sharp broken edges. They are reef and coral rock fragments estimated as <335 m³ (<633 t). Locally in the bay, the relationship between the boulder weight and position shows that boulders of a given weight have a clear limit on seaward distribution on the reef flat. For example, more than 1, 10, and 100 tons of boulders were deposited, respectively, more than 500, 300, and 100 m from the reef edge. The line is consistent with the possible landward transport limit by maximum storm waves at the Ryukyu Islands, suggesting that the line was formed by the reworking of some boulders by maximally strong storm waves, although we can not exclude the possibility that the line was formed by tsunamis. Furthermore, 68% of boulders at the bay are deposited beyond this line. Therefore, the presence of these boulders at their present positions is difficult to explain solely by storm waves, implying the possible tsunami origin of these boulders. The boulders are characteristically concentrated along the high‐tide line, suggesting the drastic reduction of the tsunami hydraulic force along the line. Previous studies using radiocarbon age dating, as well as our study, imply that at least 69 boulders at Miyara Bay were probably deposited at their present positions by the 1771 Meiwa tsunami, although some of these boulders might have been emplaced and displaced on the reef flat by prior tsunami or storm surges.     

Planimetric and volumetric changes of reef islands in response to wave conditions

Reef islands are morphologically dynamic features located on atolls and platform reefs that are very sensitive to wave‐induced processes on different timescales. The planform morphological evolution of reef islands is widely described; however, the mechanisms of the volumetric variations in response to wave energy are still poorly documented. To assess their multitemporal vertical and horizontal mobility, we performed a series of synchronous measurements of the volumetric changes and incident wave energies at two reef islands and a shingle bank at the Rocas Atoll in the South Atlantic Ocean. The results show the differences in the magnitudes and locations of the sediment mobility between the reef islands. Whereas one island remained stable on all timescales, with only small volumetric changes concentrated at its extremities, the other island (Farol Island) showed high mobility, especially during the energetic northern swell season. The gross volumetric change reached 10.03 × 10³ m³ (5% of the total island volume) on a daily timescale; however, on a seasonal scale, the gross erosion was compensated by the gross accretion, indicating a cyclical seasonal pattern. Moreover, the observed volumetric changes induced by the waves on both daily and seasonal timescales did not result in large shoreline displacements. However, long‐term oceanward erosion and substantial lagoonward accretion were observed at Farol Island on a decadal scale, resulting in a pronounced change in its planform morphology. This appears to be promoted by at least three sediment transport pathways induced by waves at the atoll, including sediment adjustment between the reef islands. Our results show that reef islands on the same atoll can have very distinct morphological behaviors on daily, seasonal and decadal scales in response to the same boundary conditions. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Understanding impacts of tropical storms and hurricanes on submerged bank reefs and coral communities in the northwestern Gulf of Mexico

A 100-year climatology of tropical storms and hurricanes within a 200-km buffer was developed to study their impacts on coral reefs of the Flower Garden Banks (FGB) and neighboring banks of the northwestern Gulf of Mexico. The FGB are most commonly affected by tropical storms from May through November, peaking in August–September. Storms approach from all directions; however, the majority of them approach from the southeast and southwest, which suggests a correlation with storm origin in the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico. A storm activity cycle lasting 30–40 years was identified similar to that known in the Atlantic basin, and is similar to the recovery time for impacted reefs. On average there is 52% chance of a storm approaching within 200 km of the FGB every year, but only 17% chance of a direct hit every year. Storm-generated waves 5–25 m in height and periods of 11–15 s induce particle speeds of 1–4 m s^?1 near these reefs. The wave–current flow is capable of transporting large (～3 cm) sediment particles, uplifting the near-bottom nepheloid layer to the banks tops, but not enough to break coral skeletons. The resulting storm-driven turbulence induces cooling by heat extraction, mixing, and upwelling, which reduces coral bleaching potential and deepens the mixed layer by about 20 m. Tropical storms also aid larvae dispersal from and onto the FGB. Low storm activity in 1994–2004 contributed to an 18% coral cover increase, but Hurricane Rita in 2005 reduced it by 11% and brought coral cover to nearly pre-1994 levels. These results suggest that the FGB reefs and neighboring reef banks act as coral refugia because of their offshore location and deep position in the water column, which shields them from deleterious effects of all but the strongest hurricanes.