Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects

Theoretical distributions proposed for describing the crest-to-trough heights of linear waves are reviewed briefly. To explore the effects of nonlinearities, these are generalized to second-order waves, utilizing quasi-deterministic results on the expected shape of large waves. The efficacy of Gram–Charlier models in describing the effects of third-order nonlinearities on the distributions of wave heights, crests and troughs are examined in detail. All models and a fifth-order Stokes–Rayleigh type model recently proposed are compared with linear and nonlinear waves simulated from the JONSWAP spectrum representative of long-crested extreme seas, and also with oceanic data gathered in the North Sea. Uncertainties arising from the variability of probability estimates derived from sample populations of limited size are considered. Ultimately, the comparisons show that nonlinearities do not have any discernable effect on the crest-to-trough heights of oceanic waves. Most of the linear models considered yield similar and reasonable predictions of the observed data trends. Gram–Charlier type distributions seem neither effective nor particularly useful in describing the statistics of large wave heights or crests under oceanic conditions. However, they do surprisingly well in predicting unusually large wave heights and crests observed in some 2D wave-flume experiments and 3D numerical simulations of long-crested narrow-band random waves.     

Induced-current effects on microwave backscatter

Microwave measurements have been made with a coherent radar in a wind-wave tank to determine the effect of induced current on backscatter. Perturbations were introduced into the wave structure by inducing a current in the water that flowed either with or against the wind. The effect of current on radar cross section was slight; the effect on the Doppler was much more pronounced. It was found that the wave components responsible for radar backscatter are predominantly free waves (that is, waves which travel at the dispersion velocity) rather than waves which are parasitic (or locked) to the dominant waves.     

Polarization effects in seaice signatures

Observations of microwave emissivities of multiyear sea ice showed anomalies at horizontal polarization in the frequency range from 5 to 35 GHz during the Norwegian Remote Sensing Experiment (NORSEX) [1] in September and October 1979. The effect can be explained by layers of solid ice present in the dry snow cover throughout the NORSEX area. A special experiment made on a typical multiyear floe confirms this explanation. Since the results also indicate that at 94 GHz the layers do not affect the radiation, a dual-polarized radiometer in the 90-GHz window is a promising sea-ice sensor.     

Space-time processing, environmental-acoustic effects

The authors examine the subject of space-time processing and review fundamental environmental effects and their influence on arrays in the deep ocean sound channel. Space-time transforms are reviewed to demonstrate the analogy between spatial and temporal properties to stress the importance of convolution and matched field processing. A criterion is presented by which the resolution of such measurement systems could be calculated. The static source-receiver case is shown to be influenced by the randomness in signal phase due to scattering. Calculations and data are used to show the importance of multipath effects on the relative gain of line array measurement systems and the difficulties encountered for the determination of coherence lengths. Single path coherence lengths were found to be large and predictable using an environmental parameter and the Beran-McCoy mutual coherence functional form. However, multipath effects appeared to be dominant. The temporal fluctuation problem is briefly introduced to stress the fact that for relative source-receiver speeds of 1.5 m/s (3 knots) or greater, the fluctuations are dominated by the changes in the multipath arrivals     

赤潮期间藻类的化感效应

海洋环境条件的变化导致浮游生物(微藻、原生动物或细菌)暴发性增殖或高度聚集使局部水体改变颜色产生赤潮.海洋浮游微藻是引发赤潮的主要生物,在4 000多种浮游微藻中有260多种能形成赤潮,中国沿海的赤潮生物有148种,其中43种曾引发过赤潮.     

台湾山地的雨影效应及其表现

台湾岛的雨量受台湾山地的雨影效应影响明显,各地各月随着风向的不同,雨量表现出很大的差异。福建沿海一线存在着一个雨量低值区,主要是由于该地带所处的地理位置及地形条件所决定,与台湾山地的雨影效应无关。     

Phase-lag effects in sheet flow transport

The inception of the sheet flow regime as well as the effects of the phase lag when the sheet flow regime is established were investigated for oscillatory flows and combined steady and oscillatory flows. A new criterion for the inception of sheet flow is proposed based on around 300 oscillatory flow cases from experiments. This criterion was introduced in the Camenen and Larson [Camenen, B., Larson, M., 2005. A bedload sediment transport formula for the nearshore. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 63, 249–260.] bed load formula in order to take into account phase-lag effects in the sheet flow regime. The modification of the Camenen and Larson formula significantly improves the overall agreement with data and yields a correct behavior in relation to some of the main governing parameters, which are the median grain size d₅₀, the orbital wave velocity U_w, and the wave period T_w. The calibration of the new formula was based on more than 200 experimental data values on the net sediment transport rate for a full wave cycle. A conceptual model was also proposed to estimate the ratio between sediment transport rate with and without phase lag, (r_pl = q_s,net / q_s,net,ϕ=0). This simple model provides accurate results and may be used together with any quasi-steady model for bed load transport.     

Some causes and effects of tow-off

The phenomenon of tow-off, or kiting, associated with faired cable systems has been studied in order to identify probable causes and demonstrate their effects. Three-dimensional cable profiles have been computed embodying experimentally determined values of all hydrodynamic quantities. The work encompasses fish induced and fairing induced tow-off, with light and heavy fairings, and provides generalised data for estimation purposes plus examples of the variation with towing speed and scope of the tow-off angles and fish displacements to be expected of a typical towed system.     

Micronutrient effects on cyanobacterial growth and physiology

Trace metals play crucial roles in the carbon and nitrogen metabolism of cyanobacteria. Physiological responses to metal limitation and toxicity in culture have shown that iron is important for photosynthesis and energy distribution in the cell while both iron and molybdenum are biochemically involved in nitrate reduction and nitrogen fixation. Nitrogen fixation is also relatively sensitive to copper toxicity. Consequently, factors that affect the supply rate, chemical speciation, or the recycling of trace metals can alter patterns of primary productivity and nitrogen metabolism. Overall, three trace metal dependent processes may contribute towards dominance: efficient use of limiting light, nitrogen fixation, and production of extracellular iron binding compounds.     

亚硝基肌(NTG)对雨生红球藻的诱变效应

用浓度分别为0，0．5，1，1．5，2，2．5，3，3．5g／L的亚硝基胍(NTG)处理雨生红球藻(Haematococcus Pluvialis)，处理后的藻细胞分别置于100mL三角烧瓶培养，3d后用细胞计数测定抑制率。结果表明，NTG浓度为2．5g／L时生长K值最大，为0．389；藻液的细胞干质量最大．为0．711g／L；虾青素含量也最多，为1．86975 mg／L，之后随着浓度的增加反而下降。     

Beach nourishment effects on sand porosity variability

A standard assumption in coastal engineering is that the porosity of natural beach sand (non-cohesive) is 40%. However, is this assumption correct for all beach sand? This paper proposes an accurate and simplified method to assess changes in sand porosity after beach nourishment by means of in-situ density surveys through a nuclear densimeter. This novel application has been applied to different beaches in the southwest of Spain according to the tidal range, grain size and beach morphology in several terms. General results show that sand porosities range from 25.6% to 43.4% after beach nourishment works. This research can be considered a support tool in coastal engineering to find shifting sand volumes as a result of sand porosity variability after beach nourishment and later marine influence.     

Wave breaking velocity effects in depth-integrated models

A simple model for predicting the velocities under breaking waves in depth-integrated models is developed. A velocity modification due to wave breaking is formulated based on a specific exponential profile, which is then added to the numerically predicted, depth-integrated velocity profile. This modification is superficial in that it does not directly change the hydrodynamic calculations inside the depth-integrated model. The modifications can be employed in any of the numerous Boussinesq-type models, and is not dependant on the use of a particular breaking dissipation scheme. Horizontal velocity profiles, both mean and instantaneous, are compared with experimental data in the surf zone. The comparisons show good agreement, markedly better than the un-modified results, and on par with published numerical results from sophisticated models.     

Coastal forest effects on tsunami run-up heights

An experimental study was carried out to determine the effects of a coastal forest on tsunami run-up heights. The beach was built as a natural sandy beach at laboratory scale. The coastal forest model was constructed using artificial trees (FM–I) and cylindrical timber sticks (FM–II). Artificial trees were placed on a 1:5 slope in three different layouts: rectilinear, staggered, and dense rectilinear. It was shown that in the case when the trees were placed in the dense rectilinear pattern and close to the still water level (SWL), the run-up height was reduced by approximately 45% compared with the case without trees. After evaluation of the experimental results, the parameters that affect the run-up height were determined. These parameters were written as a dimensionless group using Buckingham's Pi theorem. An extensive regression analysis was carried out and equations proposed. Furthermore, all experiments were repeated with a slope of 1:3.5 to verify the proposed equations. The experimental results were compared with the results of the proposed equations, and it was shown a good agreement between the results.     

Hurricane effects on surface gulf stream currents

A 3-dimensional model methodology for predicting the upper ocean currents under the combined influence of Gulf Stream and hurricane is described. Predicted currents are highly dependent on the turbulence closure scheme and nonlinear interactions. New field data will be required to determine the appropriate formulation for turbulent momentum transfer. However, the model points out the importance of nonlinear terms in the equations of motions for preserving the jet-like structure of the Gulf Stream and for properly accounting for interaction between the Gulf Stream and a hurricane. A potentially worst case condition is obtained for the so-called resonant hurricane.     

Studies of temperature effects of dust storms

We studied the temperature variations of the lower air layer caused by dust content using a dust storm in Dushanbe in November 2007 as an example. Quantitative estimates of air cooling and a decrease in the diurnal temperature difference due to a diminishing horizontal visibility range are given. Observations of air temperature variations due to the dust content of the atmosphere in an arid zone are presented. The critical value of aerosol concentration for toggling between the greenhouse and antigreenhouse effects is determined. The long-term effect of dust aerosol on climate is analyzed.     

Interference effects between flexible cylinders in waves

An approximate method is presented to estimate the hydrodynamic loading and associated structural response of each of a pair of free-standing, bottom-nounted, flexible circular cylinders subjected to a regular train of linear surface waves. The cylinders are aligned parallel to the incident wave direction and the response of each is assumed to be one-dimensional and governed by a beam equation. The solution technique for the fluid velocity potential involves replacing scattered waves by equivalent plane waves together with non-planar, first-correction terms, and can be shown to be a large-spacing approximation. Numerical results are presented which show the influence of the various wave and structural parameters on the hydrodynamic loading and dynamic response of the individual cylinders.     

Transient effects in wave-current boundary layer flow

Previous studies of combined wave and current bottom boundary layer flow have concentrated on the final converged state of the flow following the addition of waves to a current. While this final state is of primary interest to modellers and engineers, it pre-supposes that such a state is actually attained in reality, and this may not always be the case. In addition, it overlooks the interesting and complicated transient effects which occur as a wave-current flow evolves from one state to another. The present study concentrates attention on the transient effects predicted by a “one-equation” turbulence closure model. Results of case studies are presented in which waves are superimposed co-linearly on a current (“forward problem”), and are then removed from the converged wave-current flow (“backward problem”). Two formulations of the “forward” and “backward” problems are discussed. In the first the steady component of the pressure gradient driving the mean flow is held constant throughout, and in the second the steady component of the mass flux is held constant. In each case the detailed evolution of the profiles of mean velocity, turbulent energy, mixing length, eddy viscosity and shear stress are discussed. More generally, the question of the convergence timescale of a combined wave-current flow is considered, and a convergence criterion is proposed.     

Eclipse effects in the atmospheric boundary layer

The influence of a solar eclipse on solar-radiation fluxes, meteorological parameters, turbulence characteristics, and vertical temperature profiles in the atmospheric boundary layer is analyzed. Air-temperature variations caused by an eclipse and time delays of these variations with respect to the onset of the total-eclipse phase in the atmospheric surface and boundary layers are determined. The influence of a solar eclipse on the turbulent kinetic energy, turbulent heat flux, and variance and spectral density of the power of air-temperature pulsations are estimated. Variations in aerosol parameters and concentrations of light ions during a total solar eclipse are discussed.