Remote Observation of the Spatial Variability of Surface Waves Interacting With an Estuarine Outflow

This paper explores the application of phased-array high-frequency (HF) radars to identify locations of enhanced local waveheights. Measurements of the near-surface current velocities and waveheights were obtained from HF radars deployed near the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay in the fall of 1997. The radar-derived near-surface velocities were compared with the upper bin (2-m depth) of four upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs). The slopes of the linear correlations were close to one and the root-mean-square (rms) differences were similar to previous studies. Significant waveheight (Hs) estimates from both radars were compared with a laser height gauge. The largest differences were observed during low winds due to overestimates at one of the radar stations and during storms when the laser measurement failed. Further analysis focused on the HF radar results from the more reliable of the two sites. The rms difference between this radar and the in situ sensor was 0.29 m. Synoptic observations of Hs over the Chesapeake Bay revealed regions of current-induced wave shoaling and refraction. Hs over the estuarine outflow increased between 19-50% relative to the incident Hs in light onshore winds (~5 m/s). In stronger winds (>10 m/s), Hs also increased by up to 25% when there was a tidal outflow in the surface layer, although the near-surface currents were responding to both the wind and the ebbing tide. Hs was not enhanced when the outflow was below a thicker layer (>5 m) of wind-forced onshore flow     

Theoretical Analysis of A Buoyant Jet Interacting with Small Amplitude Waves

A new theoretical solution is presented here for the dynamic characteristics of a buoyant jet due to opposing small amplitude waves.The conservation equations of mass,tangential momentum and vertical momentum are solved by the integral method which encompasses the Gaussian profiles of velocity and density.The action of waves is incorporated into the equations of motion as an external force and a new exact solution is obtained to predict the trajectory,velocity distribution and boundary thickness of the buoyant jet over an arbitrary lateral cross section.It is found that the velocity along the centerline is inversely proportional to the ratio of the momentum of the wave to the buoyant jet.The averaged boundary width varies with the fluctuation of the boundary width,the distance from the orifice and the velocity correction function.Owing to the motion d waves,the fluctuation of the boundary width is proportional to the wave steepness.     

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.     

Instability of Two Interacting Quasi-Monochromatic Waves in Shallow Water

The nonlinear interactions of waves with a double-peaked power spectrum have been studied in shallow water.The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear unidirectional waves in shallow water,i.e.the Korteweg de Vries equation.By means of a multiple-scale technique two defocusing coupled Nonlinear Schrdinger equations are derived.It is found analytically that plane wave solutions of such a system are unstable for small perturbations,showing that the existence of a new energy exchange mechanism which can influence the behavior of ocean waves in shallow water.     

Analysis of A Porous and Flexible Cylinder in Waves

The hydrodynamic response of a porous flexible circular-cylinder in regular waves was analytically studied. To simplify the problem, the cover and the bottom of the cylinder were ignored. Small amplitude water wave theory and structural responses were assumed. The velocity potentials were solved using the Fourier-Bessel series expansion method and the least squares approximation method. The convergence of the series was numerically tested to determine the number of terms in the series expansion. Two types of installations were considered for deformation, hydrodynamic forces, structural flexibility, drafts, and porosity. The present study represented a preliminary step in the study of the fish cage.     

Nonlinear Surface Waves in a Basin with Floating Broken Ice

The method of multiple scales is used to deduce equations for three nonlinear approximations of a wave disturbance in a basin of constant depth covered with broken ice. In deducing these equations, we take into account the space and time variability of the wave profile in the expression for the velocity potential on the basin surface. These equations are used to construct uniformly suitable asymptotic expansions up to quantities of the third order of smallness for the liquid-velocity potential and elevations of the basin surface formed by a periodic running wave of finite amplitude. We analyze the dependence of the amplitude-phase characteristics of elevations of the basin surface on the thickness of ice, nonlinearity of its vertical acceleration, and the amplitude and wavelength of the fundamental harmonic.     

Interaction of Surface Waves in a Basin with Floating Broken Ice

The multiscale method is used to obtain asymptotic expansions up to the quantities of the third order for the elevations of the surface of the basin and the velocity potential of motion of liquid particles in the wave disturbances formed in the process of nonlinear interaction of periodic running waves of the first and second harmonics in a homogeneous ideal incompressible liquid of constant finite depth covered with broken ice. The dependences of the amplitude-phase structure of disturbances on the ice thickness, depth of the basin, and the parameters of interacting harmonics are investigated. We estimate the error of evaluation of the characteristics of the formed vertical displacement of the surface of the basin and nonlinear mass transfer introduced by neglecting the curvature of the wave profile in the expression for the velocity potential in deducing the kinematic and dynamic surface boundary conditions for nonlinear approximations.     

An Efficient Hydrodynamic Model for Surface Waves

In the present study,a semi-implicit finite difference model for non-bydrostatic,free-surface flows is analyzed and discussed.The governing equations are the three-dimensional free-surface Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations defined on a general,irregular domain of arbitrary scale.At outflow,a combination of a sponge layer technique and a radiation boundary condition is applied to minimize wave reflection.The equations are solved with the fractional step method where the hydrostatic pressure component is determined first,while the non-hydrostatic component of the pressure is computed from the pressure Poisson equation in which the coefficient matrix is positive definite and symmetric.The advectiou and horizontal viscosity terms are discretized by use of a semi-Lagrangian approach.The resulting model is computationally efficient and unrestricted to the CFL condition.The developed model is verified against analytical solutions and experimental data,with excellent agreement.     

A Historical Note on the Study of Ocean Surface Waves

The modern study of ocean surface waves started with a pioneer study by Sverdrup and Munk (1947). More than half a century has passed since then and the study of ocean surface waves has greatly advanced. The current numerical wave models, supported by many fundamental studies, enable us to compute ocean surface waves on a global scale with sufficient accuracy for practical purposes. However, physical process controlling the energy balance of ocean surface waves is still not completely understood. The present note is a rough sketch of the historical development of the study of ocean surface waves in the latter half of the twentieth century when the Oceanographic Society of Japan was founded and grew. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Mapping Submerged Aquatic Vegetation with GIS in the Caloosahatchee Estuary: Evaluation of Different Interpolation Methods

This article evaluates different spatial interpolation methods for mapping submerged aquatic vegetation (SAV) in the Caloosahatchee Estuary, Florida. Data used for interpolation were collected by the Submersed Aquatic Vegetation Early Warning System (SAVEWS). The system consists of hydro-acoustic equipment, which operates from a slow-moving boat and records bottom depth, seagrass height, and seagrass density. This information is coupled with geographic location coordinates from a Global Positioning System (GPS) and stored together in digital files, representing SAV status at points along transect lines. Adequate spatial interpolation is needed to present the SAV information, including density, height, and water depth, as spatially continuous data for mapping and for comparison between seasons and years. Interpolation methods examined in this study include ordinary kriging with five different semivariance models combined with a variable number of neighboring points, the inverse distance weighted (IDW) method with different parameters, and the triangulated irregular network (TIN) method with linear and quintic options. Interpolation results were compared with survey data at selected calibration transects to examine the suitability of different interpolation methods. Suitability was quantified by the determination coefficient (R2) and the root-mean-square error (RMSE) between interpolated and observed values. The most suitable interpolation method was identified as the one yielding the highest R2 value and/or the lowest RMSE value. For different geographic conditions, seasons, and SAV parameters, different interpolation methods were recommended. This study identified that kriging was more suitable than the IDW or TIN method for spatial interpolation of all SAV parameters measured. It also suggested that transect data with irregular spatial distribution patterns such as SAV parameters are sensitive to interpolation methods. An inappropriate interpolation method such as TIN can lead to erroneous spatial representation of the SAV status. With a functional geographic system and adequate computing power, the evaluation and selection of interpolation methods can be automated and quantitative, leading to a more efficient and accurate decision.     

Mapping Submerged Aquatic Vegetation with GIS in the Caloosahatchee Estuary: Evaluation of Different Interpolation Methods

This article evaluates different spatial interpolation methods for mapping submerged aquatic vegetation (SAV) in the Caloosahatchee Estuary, Florida. Data used for interpolation were collected by the Submersed Aquatic Vegetation Early Warning System (SAVEWS). The system consists of hydro-acoustic equipment, which operates from a slow-moving boat and records bottom depth, seagrass height, and seagrass density. This information is coupled with geographic location coordinates from a Global Positioning System (GPS) and stored together in digital files, representing SAV status at points along transect lines. Adequate spatial interpolation is needed to present the SAV information, including density, height, and water depth, as spatially continuous data for mapping and for comparison between seasons and years. Interpolation methods examined in this study include ordinary kriging with five different semivariance models combined with a variable number of neighboring points, the inverse distance weighted (IDW) method with different parameters, and the triangulated irregular network (TIN) method with linear and quintic options. Interpolation results were compared with survey data at selected calibration transects to examine the suitability of different interpolation methods. Suitability was quantified by the determination coefficient (R2) and the root-mean-square error (RMSE) between interpolated and observed values. The most suitable interpolation method was identified as the one yielding the highest R2 value and/or the lowest RMSE value. For different geographic conditions, seasons, and SAV parameters, different interpolation methods were recommended. This study identified that kriging was more suitable than the IDW or TIN method for spatial interpolation of all SAV parameters measured. It also suggested that transect data with irregular spatial distribution patterns such as SAV parameters are sensitive to interpolation methods. An inappropriate interpolation method such as TIN can lead to erroneous spatial representation of the SAV status. With a functional geographic system and adequate computing power, the evaluation and selection of interpolation methods can be automated and quantitative, leading to a more efficient and accurate decision.     

中国近海海域台风浪模拟试验

以经验台风公式和NCEP再分析风场资料为基础,通过一个权重系数构造了西北太平洋海域台风风场,并以此作为一个第三代海浪模式WAVEWATCH Ⅲ的输入风场,模拟了2005年的麦沙(Matsa)台风浪场.由于风场的改善,模拟结果显著地提高了海浪模式的后报精度.     

Nonlinear Model of Mean Free Surface of Waves

-A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented.The model isbased on that of Roelvink(1993),but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on theWeighted-Average Flux(WAF)method(Watson et al,1992),with Time-Operator-Splitting(TOS)usedfor the treatment of the source terms.This method allows a small number of computational points to beused,and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up.The short wave(or primary wave)energy equa-tion is solved by use of a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique.A nonlinear wave theory(James,1974)is introduced.The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects whencompared with the measurements conducted by Stive(1983)except in modeling the mean free surface veryclose to the mean shoreline.     

Beta Distribution of Surface Elevation of Random Waves

A probability density function (PDF) is derived of beta distribution with both λ3 (skewness) and λ4 (kurtosis) as parameters for weakly nonlinear wave surface elevation by use of a method recently proposed by Srokosz. This PDF not only has a simpler form than the well-known Gram-Charlier Series PDF derived by Longuet-Higgins. but also overcomes an obvious shortcoming of the latter that when the series is unsuitably truncated, the resulting PDF is locally negative. To test the derived beta PDF, laboratorial experiments of wind waves are conducted. The experimental data indicate that the theoretical requirements of the parameters in the beta PDF are fulfilled. The experimental results show that the present PDF is in better agreement with the measured data than the beta PDF only including parameter λ3, and also than the Gram-Charlier Series PDF truncated up to the term of H6.     

On the Transfer of Microbubbles by Surface Waves

Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - Direct numerical simulation (DNS) is performed and the dynamics of a near-surface water layer populated by air bubbles in the presence of a stationary...     

Hybrid Surface Waves from a Harmonic Perturbation Source

The problem of constructing uniform asymptotics of surface perturbations of far fields from a localized harmonic source in the flow of a heavy homogeneous fluid of infinite depth is considered. It is shown that the wave pattern of generated far fields at specific parameters is a system of hybrid wave disturbances that simultaneously possesses the properties of waves of two types: annular (transverse) and wedgeshaped (longitudinal) waves. The properties of the phase structure and wave fronts of the generated fields are studied. Uniform asymptotics of the solutions describing hybrid surface wave disturbances far from a harmonic source are constructed.     

Long Waves Associated with Bichromatic Waves

A numerical model of low frequency waves is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the nu-merical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave setup. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved with a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in modeling low frequency waves associated with incident bichromalic waves.     

Surface Elevation Distribution of Sea Waves Based on the Maximum Entropy Principle

A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distribution. The density function can be easily extended to higher order according to demand and is non-negative everywhere, satisfying the basic behavior of the probability. Moreover because the distribution is derived without any assumption about sea waves, it is found from comparison with several accepted distributions that the new form of distribution can be applied in a wider range of wave conditions. In addition, the density function can be used to fit some observed distributions of surface vertical acceleration although something remains unsolved.     

Capillary-Gravitational Waves of Finite Amplitude on the Surface of a Homogeneous Liquid

The method of multiple scales is used to deduce equations for three nonlinear approximations of the capillary-gravitational disturbances of the free surface of a layer of a homogeneous liquid of constant depth. In these equations, the space-time variations of the wave profile in the expression for the velocity potential on the liquid surface are taken into account. On this basis, we construct asymptotic expansions up to the quantities of the third order of smallness for the velocity potential and elevations of the liquid surface induced by running periodic waves of finite amplitude. Furthermore, we analyze the dependences of the amplitude-phase characteristics of wave disturbances on the surface tension, depth of the liquid, and the length and steepness of waves of the first harmonic. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 5, pp. 25–34, September–October, 2005.     

台风浪模拟预报中的风场比较研究

在对模拟台风浪时海浪模式常用的经验模型风场和多重嵌套中尺度气象数值模式风场的结构和时间演变特征进行对比分析的基础上,分别采用这两种风场资料,应用最新版本的第三代海浪模式SWAN对Winnie(1997)引起的台风浪进行了模拟,将模拟的有效波高与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星高度计资料作了详细的对比分析。结果表明,经验模型风场对实际台风风场的刻画存在诸多缺陷,这些缺陷对于台风浪的准确模拟产生了不可忽视的影响,采用模式风场试验的模拟效果优于采用模型风场的试验。论文提出了在运用海浪模式模拟台风浪时用数值模式模拟风场替代经验模型风场的必要性。