一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

从波浪破碎的能量关系入手,以紊流能量方程为基础,考虑破碎区内单个波在不同破碎阶段所提供的紊动能量强度的变化过程,提出了一种波浪破碎模式.通过将这一模型引入Boussinesq方程中,初步建立了一种近岸区波浪变形数学模型,并用波浪水槽实验资料对模型模拟波高和平均水位的情况进行了初步验证,得到了良好的结果.     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。     

近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟

基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。     

非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型及其实验验证

以一种新型的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.通过对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟说明,模型能较好地模拟大水深水域和强非线性波的传播.通过设置不同的入射波参数来进行潜堤地形上波浪传播的物理模型实验,并将数值解与物理模型实验结果进行了比较.     

斜坡平台波浪破碎数值模拟

波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。     

基于GPU加速的Boussinesq类波浪传播变形数值模型

Boussinesq波浪模型是一类相位解析模型,在时域内求解需要较高的空间和时间分辨率以保证计算精度。为提高计算效率,有必要针对该类模型开展并行算法的研究。与传统的中央处理器(CPU)相比,图形处理器(GPU)有大量的运算器,可显著提高计算效率。基于统一计算设备架构CUDA C语言和图形处理器,实现了Boussinesq模型的并行运算。将本模型的计算结果同CPU数值模拟结果和解析解相比较,发现得到的结果基本一致。同时也比较了CPU端与GPU端的计算效率,结果表明,GPU数值模型的计算效率有明显提升,并且伴随数值网格的增多,提升效果更为明显。     

用含高色散性Boussinesq方程模拟潜堤上的波浪变形

基于一种高阶Boussiensq方程(刘忠波等,2004),采用预报-校正格式的有限差分法对该方程进行了数值离散,建立了数值模型。针对动量方程中三阶项的差分形式,采用了迎风格式和五点格式。通过数值模拟常水深下不同周期波浪传播变形,指出迎风格式在计算小周期波浪时存在的问题。为进一步验证数值模型的适用性,模拟了淹没潜堤上的传播变形。从数值结果与实验值的对比结果上看,该数值模型能较好地模拟波浪变形,可用于模拟实际中的波浪场问题。     

海浪特性及其传播变形研究新进展

综述第27届国家海岸工程会议（ICCE2000）上有关海浪特性及其传播变形研究的新进展，内容包括海浪的时域特性，海浪的特征，海浪的传播变形和波浪的破碎，反射等四部分。     

基于双层Boussinesq方程的三维波浪数值模型及其验证

Liu等给出的最高导数为2的双层Boussinesq水波方程具有较好的色散性和非线性,基于该方程建立了有限差分法的三维波浪数值模型。在矩形网格上对方程进行了空间离散,采用高阶导数近似方程中的时、空项,时间积分采用混合4阶Adams-Bashforth-Moulton的预报—校正格式。模拟了深水条件下的规则波传播过程,计算波面与解析结果吻合较好,反映出数值模型能很好地刻画波面过程及波面处的速度变化;在kh=2π条件下可较为准确获得沿水深分布的水平和垂向速度,这与理论分析结果一致。最后,利用数值模型计算了规则波在三维特征地形上的传播变形,数值结果和试验数据吻合较好;高阶非线性项会对波浪数值结果产生一定的影响,当波浪非线性增强,水深减少将产生更多的高次谐波。建立的双层Boussinesq模型对强非线性波浪的演化具有较好的模拟精度。     

基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程二维波浪传播数值模型

建立基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程的二维波浪传播数值模型。采用Kennedy等提出的涡粘方法模拟波浪破碎。在矩形网格上对控制方程进行离散,采用高精度的数值格式对离散方程进行数值求解。对规则波在具有三维特征地形上的传播过程进行了数值模拟,通过数值模拟结果与实验结果的对比,对所建立的波浪传播模型进行了验证。同时,为了考察非线性对波浪传播的影响,给出和上述模型具有同阶色散性、变浅作用性能但仅具有二阶完全非线性特征的波浪模型的数值结果。通过对比两个模型的数值结果以及实验数据,讨论非线性在波浪传播过程中的作用。研究结果表明,所建立的Boussinesq水波方程在深水范围内不但具有较精确的色散性和变浅作用性能,而且具有四阶完全非线性特征,适合模拟波浪在近岸水域的非线性运动。     

A nearshore wave breaking model

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Numerical study for waves propagating over a porous seabed around a submerged permeable breakwater: PORO-WSSI II model

The phenomenon of the wave, seabed and structure interactions has attracted great attentions from coastal geotechnical engineers in recent years. Most previous investigations have based on individual approaches, which focused on either flow region or seabed domain. In this study, an integrated model (PORO-WSSI II), based on the Volume-Averaged/Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations and Biot's poro-elastic theory, is developed to investigate the mechanism of the wave-permeable structure-porous seabed interactions. The new model is verified with the previous experimental data. Based on the present model, parametric studies have been carried out to investigate the influences of wave, soil and structure parameters on the wave-induced pore pressure. Numerical results indicated: (i) longer wave period and larger wave height will obviously induce a higher magnitude of pore pressure at the leading edge of a breakwater; (ii) after a full wave-structure interaction, the magnitude of pore pressure below the lee side of a breakwater decreases with an increasing structure porosity while it varies dramatically with a change of structure height; and (iii) the seabed thickness, soil permeability and the degree of saturation can also significantly affect the dynamic soil behaviour.     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves: Part 2: Wave-induced setdown and setup on a submerged coral reef

Based on a set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion characteristics in deeper water, the present paper incorporates the simplified effect of spilling wave breaking into the equations. The analysis is restricted to a single horizontal dimension but the method can be extended to include the second horizontal dimension. Inside the surf zone the vertical variation of the horizontal velocity profile is assumed to be composed of an (initially unknown) organised velocity component below the roller and a surface roller travelling with the wave celerity. This leads to a new set of equations which is capable of simulating the transformation of waves before, during and after wave breaking. The model is calibrated and verified by comparison with several wave flume measurements. The results show that the model produces sound physical results.     

一种基本Boussinesq方程的近岸区破碎波模型

基于文献「１」Ｂｏｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的近岸区破碎波模型基础,将数值模型中的波高衰减规律由假设改进为Ｄａｌｌｙ的解析公式,使近岸区破碎波模型的应用性更强。并将数值模型计算结果与现场实验资料进行对比,取得了满意的结果。     

强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值模型检验

采用同位网格有限差分法,建立了强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值计算模型。以稳恒波Fourier近似解给定入射波边界条件,对均匀水深深水和浅水域不同非线性的行进波、缓坡地形上深水至浅水域的浅水变形波、以及缓坡和陡坡地形上的波浪水槽实验进行了数值计算,并将计算结果与解析解、解析数值解以及实验值进行了较为详细的比较,从而检验了模型的色散性、非线性以及不同底坡下非线性波的浅水变形性能。     

Stability of breakwater defenced by a seaward submerged reef

The stability of a uniformly sloped conventional rubble mound breakwater defenced by a seaward submerged reef is investigated using physical model studies. Regular waves of wide ranging heights and periods are used. Tests are carried out for different spacings between two rubble mound structures (X/d=2.5–13.33) and for different relative heights (h/d=0.625–0.833) and relative widths (B/d=0.25–1.33) of the reef. It is observed that a reef of width (B/d) of 0.6–0.75 constructed at a seaward distance (X/d) of 6.25–8.33 breaks all the incoming waves and dissipates energy and protects the breakwater optimally.     

Propagation of solitary waves over a submerged permeable breakwater

We study the interactions between a non-breaking solitary wave and a submerged permeable breakwater experimentally and numerically. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is employed to measure instantaneous free surface displacements and velocity fields in the vicinity of a porous dike. The porous medium, consisting of uniform glass spheres, is mounted on the seafloor. Due to the limited size of each field of view (FOV) for high spatial resolution purposes, four FOVs are set in order to form a continuous flow field around the structure. Quantitative mean properties are obtained by ensemble averaging 30 repeated instantaneous measurements. The Reynolds decomposition method is then adopted to separate the velocity fluctuations for each trial to estimate the turbulent kinetic energy. In addition, a highly accurate two-dimensional model with the volume of fluid interface tracking technique is used to simulate an idealized volume-averaged porous medium. The model is based on the Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations coupled with the non-linear k–ε turbulence closure solver. Comparisons are performed between measurements and numerical results for the time histories of the free surface elevation recorded by wave gauges and the spatial distributions of free surface displacement with the corresponding velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around the permeable object imaged by the PIV system. Fairly good agreements are obtained. It is found that the measured and modeled turbulent intensities on the weather side are much larger than those on the lee side of the object, and that the magnitude of the turbulent intensity increases with increasing wave height of a solitary wave at a constant water depth. The verified numerical model is then used to estimate the energy reflection, transmission and dissipation using the energy integral method by varying the aspect ratio and the grain size of the permeable obstacle.