A new model for predicting three-dimensional beach changes by expanding Hsu and Evans' equation

The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach.     

海滩也缺乏砂-砾过渡粒级的沉积物

沉积物的粒度是最重要的沉积物参数之一,在河床中,表层沉积物缺乏砂–砾过渡粒级（即1～10 mm）的沉积物,被称为Grain size gap,得到广泛关注。海滩沉积物是否也是如此,是一个基本而又未知的问题。本文分析了中外228处海滩共456个表层沉积物平均粒径数据,发现海滩大概率或是平均粒径几十毫米的砾石滩,或是平均粒径几百微米的砂滩,也缺乏砂–砾过渡粒级沉积物,其粒度范围是−3.5～−1 ϕ（2～11 mm）,这一结果和河床的情况基本相同。造成砂–砾过渡粒级缺乏的原因应从物源、颗粒磨损和分选以及广义的物质收支分析中去寻找。     

威海典型海滩沉积地貌及质量评价

选择威海双岛湾附近海滩、国际海水浴场海滩、金海滩、青叽岛以西海滩、青叽岛以东海滩、天鹅湖海滩、桑沟湾海滩、楮岛海滩、南海新区海滩和乳山银滩十处代表性岸滩进行了海滩地貌和底质调查,结合沙滩表层样品分析测试数据,对研究区海滩地貌、沉积物粒度分布特征及海滩质量进行了综合评价。结果表明:威海海滩沉积物主要包括砾砂、粗砂、中砂、细砂四种类型,其中中砂分布最广,约占所有点位的35.6%,细砂、粗砂、砾砂分别占34.4%,26.7%和3.3%。岸滩坡度一般较缓,宽度中等以上,岸滩质量整体较好,部分岸滩受沉积物粒度影响,质量稍差。     

砾石海滩的沉积和形态动力特征

天然砾石海滩的物质主要来源于河流输入，海岸侵蚀，海底侵蚀，沿岸输送，人类活动及冰川搬运等，砾石海滩在地貌上表现出明显的分带性，海滩坡度的大小随物源和动力条件发生变化，砾石的磨蚀速率与岩性及周围沉积物粒度组成有关，人工砾石海滩建设可借鉴天然砾石海滩的形成和演化过程，合理地设计物质组成，砾石形状和大小，以便能更快地使人工海滩达到平衡状态并维持海滩的稳定性。     

On the design of beach nourishment projects using static equilibrium concepts: Application to the Spanish coast

The concept of equilibrium plan form and equilibrium profile has been widely used as an engineering tool in order to design beach nourishment projects. The scope of this paper is to further explore this “equilibrium beach” concept in crenulated bays, as a long-term tool for beach nourishment projects. The proposed methodology is based on González and Medina (2001) and combines the static equilibrium plan and profile for long-term analysis. This methodology includes a modified equilibrium plan form, which is able to define the orientation of the local wave front in the diffracting point, and also to locate the downcoast starting point of the static equilibrium beach from which the parabolic plan form of Hsu and Evans (1989) is valid. This methodology permits the application of any equilibrium profile formulation. An example of the application of this methodology and long-term formulations to the design of the Spanish nourishment project of Poniente Beach (Gijón) is presented. Ten years after its construction, the beach has still got a static equilibrium and remains pretty close to the predicted equilibrium beach in plan and profile.     

台风季节朱家尖岛砂、砾质岬湾海滩的不同沉积地貌动态变化

岬湾砂、砾质海岸是海岛、海岸带重要的旅游资源, 具有较高的社会经济和生态价值, 长期以来备受关注。本文以浙江朱家尖岛东岸的5个代表性岬湾海滩为例, 基于2019年台风季节早期、中期及晚期测量获得的海滩地形和沉积物数据, 结合海滩近岸的水动力数据, 分析了砂质海滩和砾石海滩这两种不同类型岬湾海滩的沉积地貌动态变化。结果表明, 朱家尖岛东岸5个海滩在台风季节出现了不同的体积变化, 大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩的单宽体积变化分别为11.93m³·m^-1、-54.41m³·m^-1、-19.75m³·m^-1、2.19m³·m^-1和-1.96m³·m^-1。砾石滩较砂质海滩更为稳定, 无人类活动干扰的砂质海滩在台风季节侵蚀更少、变化更小。台风季节大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩表层沉积物的平均粒径分别为2.47Փ、2.24Փ、2.64Փ、-5.96Փ和-6.03Փ, 粒径粗化和离岸输运是5个海滩表层沉积物在台风季节的主要表现, 砂质海滩的沉积物粒度特征变化比砾石海滩要大。沉积物粒径、台风强度及台风期间的主要波向与海滩走向之间的关系、海岸工程这3种因素都可能对海滩在台风季节的沉积地貌动态变化产生影响。本文研究结果可为台风季节的海滩管理提供参考。     

Application of empirical models to bay-shaped beaches in Portugal

Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic-tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic-tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic-tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment.     

Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics

The Australian coast contains 10,685 beaches which occupy 49% of the 30,000 km coast and average 1.37 km in length. Their relatively short length is largely due to the presence of bedrock, calcarenite and laterite, which form boundaries to many of the beaches, as well as occurring as rocks, reefs and islands along and off the beaches. This geological inheritance plays a major role in Australian beach systems — determining their length and through wave refraction and attenuation influencing beach location, shape, type, morphodynamics and circulation, which in turn influence sediment transport and the backing dune and barrier systems. This paper uses a database covering every Australian beach to review the role of headlands, rocks and reefs on Australian beaches. Major effects are the short average beach length; reduction in breaker height resulting in lower energy beach types; wave refraction resulting in increased beach curvature; the presence of topographic rips on moderate and higher energy beaches and megarips during high wave conditions; and the interruption of and/or trapping of longshore sand transport leading to beach rotation.     

Variations in grain‐size and sorting on two kaikoura beaches

Two exposed, high‐energy beaches on the Kaikoura coast of New Zealand are composed of sand and gravel derived from a greywacke terrain. Both beaches can be classified as mixed beaches although the sediment varies from dominantly gravel at the ends of the beach to dominantly sand at the centre, through transition zones in which sand and gravel are mixed. Sixty‐four surface samples were analysed for grain size; two sediment parameters, mean grain size (M_z) and sorting (σ_I), were calculated.

A striking feature of the cumulative frequency curves is that both unimodai and bimodal distributions include median sizes over the whole range of sampled material, even though bimodal samples display two strong modes in the sand and gravel grades. The general deficiency lof sediment dn the very coarse sand and granule classes (0 to — 2 _F ) noted by numerous authors in many parts of the world is apparent in the poorly‐sorted bimodal samples. However, the best‐sorted samples also occur in these two classes.

Mean grain size of samples ranges from medium sand (1.820) to medium pebbles (—4.7 _F ), and sorting ranges from very well sorted (0.250) to very poorly sorted (2.69 _F ). Mean erain size on the northern beach is significantly greater than on the southern beach, but values of sorting are comparable. The greater mean size on one beach compared with the other is thought to be a function of the grade of material supplied by local rivers; the similarity in sorting presumably reflects the similarity of the processes acting on the two beaches.

Mixed sand‐shingle beaches are relatively rare on a world scale but common in New Zealand. Sediment distributions along the Kaikoura beaches do not reveal a regular decrease in size away from the rivers which supply material to shore at present. Instead, the beaches are differentiated into a number of sediment zones composed of either sand, or mixed sand‐gravel, or gravel. On each beach a gravel zone is located furthest from the river outlets. Sorting generally improves toward the Kaikoura Peninsula. Explanations for these trends are not given. Variations in size and sorting across the two beaches do not show a well developed zonation because of the high level of wave energy which continually mixes the material across the beach.     

海南万宁大花角巨砾石海滩特征与成因

巨砾石是颗粒直径大于256 mm的沉积物。巨砾石海滩(Boulder beach)是一种少见的海岸类型,形成条件特殊,与砾石海滩(2~60 mm)沉积动力特征不同,是具有旅游价值和学术价值的资源。对海南万宁大花角巨砾石海滩的调查研究结果表明,海滩主要是由直径500~1 000 mm、磨圆、光滑的巨砾石排列而成的,剖面平滑,宽40 m,高9 m,海滩坡度13°。与普陀岛的巨砾海滩相比,本海滩更为典型,海滩巨砾石磨圆更好、宽度更大、海滩低潮至高潮之间高度更大,海滩形态也更完好。它的形成与海岸岬湾地形、地质条件、高能波浪等有关。巨砾石磨圆极好、表面光滑,但是粒径比一般鹅卵石大1~2个数量级。巨砾石海滩与砾石滩在沉积特征和动力地貌特征不同,是不同类型的海滩。     

Mapping beach morphodynamics remotely: A novel application tested on South African sandy shores

Sandy beaches have been identified as threatened ecosystems but despite the need to conserve them, they have been generally overlooked. Systematic conservation planning (SCP) has emerged as an efficient method of selecting areas for conservation priority. However, SCP analyses require digital shapefiles of habitat and species diversity. Mapping these attributes for beaches from field data can take years and requires exhaustive resources. This study thus sought to derive a methodology to classify and map beach morphodynamic types from satellite imagery. Since beach morphodynamics is a strong predictor of macrofauna diversity, they could be considered a good surrogate for mapping beach biodiversity. A dataset was generated for 45 microtidal beaches (of known morphodynamic type) by measuring or coding for several physical characteristics from imagery acquired from Google Earth. Conditional inference trees revealed beach width to be the only factor that significantly predicted beach morphodynamic type, giving four categories: dissipative, dissipative-intermediate, intermediate and reflective. The derived model was tested by using it to predict the morphodynamic type of 28 other beaches of known classification. Model performance was good (75% prediction accuracy) but misclassifications occurred at the three breaks between the four categories. For beaches around these breaks, consideration of surf zone characteristics in addition to beach width ameliorated the misclassifications. The final methodology yielded a 93% prediction accuracy of beach morphodynamic type. Overlaying other considerations on this classification scheme could provide additional value to the layer, such that it also describes species’ spatial patterns. These could include: biogeographic regions, estuarine versus sandy beaches and short versus long beaches. The classification scheme was applied to the South African shoreline as a case study. The distribution of the beach morphodynamic types was partly influenced by geography. Most of the long, dissipative beaches are found along the west coast of the country, the south coast beaches are mostly dissipative-intermediate, and the east coast beaches range from short, estuarine pocket and embayed beaches in the former Transkei (south east), to longer intermediate and reflective beaches in KwaZulu-Natal (in the north east). Once combined with the three biogeographic regions, and distinguishing between estuarine and sandy shores, the South African coast comprised 24 different beach types. Representing shorelines in this form opens up potential for numerous spatial analyses that can not only further our understanding of sandy beach ecology at large spatial scales but also aid in deriving conservation strategies for this threatened ecosystem.     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩沉积与地貌动态变化

砂质海滩是浙江沿海的稀缺资源,以朱家尖岛东沙海滩为例,开展海滩沉积与地貌演变研究,可进一步了解浙江岬湾型海滩发育的区域特性。通过2010-2012年4次地形重复测量对比和沉积物采样分析,结果表明,东沙岸滩沉积地貌相带分布变化明显,沉积物自岸向海分别为砾石、中砂、细砂、粉砂、黏土质粉砂,海滩地貌呈现季节性调整,冬季为滩脊-沟槽地貌,夏季为平坦缓坡地貌,水下岸坡表现为冬淤夏冲。水动力(波浪、潮汐)、沉积物来源和人类活动是影响东沙海滩发育演变的主要因素。崩破波方式和较大的潮差,使东沙海滩呈现为无沙坝发育的消散性状态。丰富的长江入海悬浮泥沙来源,导致东沙海滩粗颗粒砂质沉积物分布范围变小,砂泥分界线向岸靠近。采砂、海塘修筑等人为活动减少和阻断了沿岸粗颗粒沉积物来源,造成海滩侵蚀明显。     

The biomass of macro- and interstitial fauna on clean and wrack-covered beaches in Western Australia

The benthic faunal spectrum including bacteria, protozoans, meiofauna, wrack epifauna and macrofauna, was quantitatively surveyed on two modally reflective, moderate energy, Western Australian beaches. The more exposed beach had coarser sand, no intertidal macrofauna and a poor interstitial fauna. The less exposed beach had a large deposit of wrack totalling 161 kg m^?1 dry mass concentrated on the lower shore. The amphipod Allorchestes compressa was abundant in the fresh wrack comprising most of the macrofauna. There were also fairly abundant small epifauna on the wrack. Dry biomass of macrofauna, epifauna, meiofauna, protozoans and bacteria was 0, 0, 15, 4 and 180 g m^?1 on the more exposed beach and 160, 3, 112, 9 and 901 g m^?1 on the less exposed beach with wrack. On the latter beach there was an inverse correlation between meiofaunal densities and the densities of protozoans and bacteria, suggesting grazing by the former on the latter. On both beaches meiofauna was concentrated in the mid- to upper beach, protozoans near the surface and bacteria in the mid- to lower beach. It is estimated that bacteria are responsible for most of the secondary production on both beaches.     

静态平衡岬湾海岸理论中抛物线方程在海滩养护中的应用

岬湾海岸是全球重要的海岸地形,约占全球岸线的51%。岬间海滩又是岬湾海岸地形中最重要的组成部分。20世纪40年代以来,海洋地质学家和海岸工程师们对岬湾海岸做了大量的研究。尤其在20世纪80年代,有关抛物线形状海湾方程的成果发表和后来相关计算机软件的开发,都对判断岬湾岸线稳定性和预测岬头下游海岸的静态平衡起到至关重要的作用。详细介绍了静态平衡岬湾的概念,并且通过在由动态平衡向静态平衡转化、以岸外坝群保护平直沙岸、提高单岬或丁坝下游的稳定性等方面的具体应用,验证了方程的有效性。通过适当的人工构筑物,配合人工养滩,创造静态平衡的海滩,对海岸带的开发和保护具有重要意义。     

Community and Population Responses of the Macroinfauna to Physical Factors over a Range of Exposed Sandy Beaches in South-central Chile

Ten exposed sandy sites covering a range from reflective to dissipative beaches were sampled in south-central Chile to evaluate: (1) spatial changes in species richness, abundance and biomass of the intertidal macroinfauna in response to changes in mean grain size, beach face slope and beach type, and (2) spatial changes in abundance, biomass and body sizes of the most abundant species in response to changes in the physical factors. The number of species, abundance and biomass per beach in general decreased with increasing particle size and beach face slope (steeper beaches) and increased from reflective to dissipative conditions. The best fit for number of species was with Dean's parameter, a measure of beach type, whereas for abundance and biomass the best fits were found with particle size. The isopod Excirolana braziliensis and the anomuran Emerita analoga increased in abundance and biomass towards dissipative conditions, whereas Excirolana hirsuticauda showed the opposite trend in biomass and was significantly larger in beaches with steeper profiles. It is concluded that responses to changes in beach type are more pronounced at community level than within species populations.     

Relationships between bioturbation by Tylos spinulosus (Crustacea, Isopoda) and its distribution on sandy beaches of north-central Chile

The semi-terrestrial isopod, Tylos spinulosus Dana, is a common inhabitant of the upper shore levels of sandy beaches of north-central Chile (ca. 26–30°S). During daylight hours, this isopod remains buried in the sand, while during the night emerges for feeding on stranded organic detritus, leaving exit holes on the beach surface. After feeding, isopods return to dig in their burrowing zones leaving surface irregularities such as cone-shaped mounds of sand. The burrowing preference of T. spinulosus was studied in the field, by: (i) releasing 30 isopods on artificially prepared sand circles (2 m diameter) having exit holes and mounds similar to those left by the isopods and on circles without holes and mounds, and (ii) counting active and buried isopods 15 min after their release in the experimental arenas. The circles had two densities of holes and mounds: treatments 1 and 2 had 100 and 200 holes, respectively, while treatments 3 and 4 had 100 and 200 mounds, respectively. Other 30 isopods were released on sand circles without these holes and mounds (treatment 5). A significantly higher number of isopods buried in circles with holes and mounds (either inside or outside them), compared with experimental arenas without such structures. These results show that the beach surface heterogeneity resulting from holes and mounds would be one of the processes explaining the patchiness of T. spinulosus and thus, its zonation on the intertidal zones of sandy beaches of north-central Chile.     

Abundance,Tidal Movement,Population Structure and Burrowing Rate of Emerita analoga (Anomura,Hippidae) at a Dissipative and a Reflective Sandy Beach in South Central Chile

Abstract. To evaluate the effects of beach morphodynamics upon the abundance, tidal movement, population structure and burrowing rate of the crab Emerita analoga (Stimpson) (Anomura, Hippidae) we sampled two beaches in south central Chile (ca. 42° S), Mar Brava and Ahui with dissipative and reflective characteristics, res­pectively. The swash zone at the dissipative beach was 5 – 6 times wider than that of the reflective beach. A at the dissipative beach, upwash speeds were higher and the number of effluent line crossings were lower by more than an order of magnitude. To examine the tidal movement of E. analoga, we collected crabs from 5 to 6 tidal levels of each beach every 2 h across 12 h of the tidal cycle. The intertidal distribution of crabs differed between beaches; i. e., at the dissipative beach they were primarily located at the swash zone, while at the reflective beach they were mostly located at the low tide level and shallow subtidal. The change in position of crabs was pronounced across the tidal cycle at the dissipative beach (Mar Brava), with most of the animals remaining in the active swash zone. Body size data were used to construct size frequency distributions for each population. Crabs from the dissipative beach reached larger sizes than those at the reflective beach. Sediments were coarser at the latter versus the former beach. Crabs burrowed at similar rates in the sand from both beaches, a result which supports the idea that E. analoga is a “sediment generalist” capable of burrowing successfully in a wide range of sediment types. This characteristic is likely a key to the broad success of this species on the full range of beach morphodynamic types along the coasts of South and North America.     

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure,data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project “Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches”, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions.The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols.     

Abrasion of Coast Composed of Loose Material

Oceanology - Abrasion of coasts is considered, the destruction of which is accompanied by extraction of sediments capable of forming a beach (sand, gravel, pebble). The behavior of such a type of...