On the general character of coastal flow

It is well-known that some coastal currents such as the Florida Current have a recirculating region on their coastal side, while other currents such as the East Australian Current have no such region. Under the hypothesis that the form drag on a coastal current by an irregular coastal topography reduces the momentum transport of the current to a minimum for the given flow within the current, the hydraulic theory of coastal currents is used to explain this behaviour.     

Challenging assumptions of future coastal habitat development around the UK

One habitat management requirement forced by 21st century relative sea‐level rise (RSLR), will be the need to re‐comprehend the dimensions of long‐term transgressive behaviour of coastal systems being forced by such RSLR. Fresh approaches to the conceptual modelling and subsequent implementation of new coastal and peri‐marine habitats will be required. There is concern that existing approaches to forecasting coastal systems development (and by implication their associated scarce coastal habitats) over the next century depend on a certain premise of orderly spatial succession of habitats. This assumption is shown to be questionable given the possible future rates of RSLR, magnitude of shoreline retreat and the lack of coastal sediment to maintain the protective morphologies to low‐energy coastal habitats. Of these issues, sediment deficiency is regarded as one of the major problem for future habitat development. Examples of contemporary behaviour of UK coasts show evidence of coastal sediment starvation resulting from relatively stable RSLR, anthropogenic sealing of coastal sources, and intercepted coastal sediment pathways, which together force segmentation of coastal systems. From these examples key principles are deduced which may prejudice the existence of future habitats: accelerated future sediment demand due to RSLR may not be met by supply and, if short‐ to medium‐term hold‐the‐line policies predominate, long‐term strategies for managed realignment and habitat enhancement may prove impossible goals. Methods of contemporary sediment husbandry may help sustain some habitats in place but otherwise, instead of integrated coastal organization, managers may need to consider coastal breakdown, segmentation and habitat reduction as the basis of 21st century coastal evolution and planning. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical investigation on the effectiveness of pile row in local sand trapping and beach protection

Ocean Dynamics - As novel coastal structures, pile row structures, such as breakwaters, have received increasing attention owing to their advantages in coastal protection and coastal landscape...     

Global distribution of coastal cliffs

Previous studies have estimated that coastal cliffs exist on about 80% of the global shoreline, but have not been validated on a global scale. This study uses two approaches to capture information on the worldwide existence and erosion of coastal cliffs: a detailed literature survey and imagery search, and a GIS-based global mapping analysis. The literature and imagery review show coastal cliffs exist in 93% of the combined recognized independent coastal states and non-independent coastal regions worldwide (total of 213 geographic units). Additionally, cliff retreat rates have been quantified in at least one location within 33% of independent coastal states and 15% of non-independent regions. The GIS-based mapping used the near-global Shuttle Radar Topography Mission 3 arc second digital elevation model and Arctic Coastal Dynamics Database to obtain near-global backshore coastal elevations at 1 km alongshore intervals comprising about 1,340,000 locations (81% of the world vector shoreline). Backshore coastal elevations were compared with the mapped distribution of European coastal cliffs to produce a model training set, and this relationship was extended globally to map the likelihood of coastal cliff locations. About 21% of the transects (17% of the world vector shoreline) were identified as mangroves and eliminated as potential cliff locations. The results were combined with estimates of cliff percentages for Greenland and Antarctica from the literature, extending the global coverage to estimate cliff occurrence across 89% of the world vector shoreline. The results suggest coastal cliffs likely exist on about 52% of the global shoreline. © 2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Landscapes on the edge: examining the role of climatic interactions in shaping coastal watersheds using a coastal–terrestrial landscape evolution model

Incised coastal gullies (ICGs) are dynamic features found at the terrestrial‐coastal interface. Their geomorphic evolution is driven by the interactions between processes of fluvial knickpoint migration and coastal cliff erosion. Under scenarios of future climate change the frequency and magnitude of the climatological drivers of both terrestrial (fluvial and hillslope) and coastal (cliff erosion) processes are likely to change, with an adjunct impact on these types of coastal features. Here we explore the response of an incised coastal gully to changes in both terrestrial and coastal climate in order to elucidate the key process interactions which drive ICG evolution. We modify an extant landscape evolution model, CHILD, to incorporate processes of soft‐cliff erosion. This modified version, termed the Coastal‐Terrestrial‐CHILD (CT‐CHILD) model, is then employed to explore the interactions between changing terrestrial and coastal driving forces on the future evolution of an ICG found on the south‐west Isle of Wight, UK. It was found that the magnitude and frequency of storm events will play a key role in determining the future trajectory of ICGs, highlighting a need to understand the role of event sequencing in future projections of landscape evolution. Furthermore, synergistic (positive) and antagonistic (negative) interactions were identified between coastal and terrestrial parameters, such as wave height intensity and precipitation duration, which act to modulate the impact of changes in any one parameter. Of note was the role played by wave height intensity in driving coastal erosion, which was found to play a more important role than sea‐level rise in determining rates of coastal erosion. This highlights the need for a greater focus on wave height in studies of soft‐cliff erosion. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Influence of Seasonal Variations in Sea Level on the Salinity Regime of a Coastal Groundwater–Fed Wetland

Seasonal variations in sea level are often neglected in studies of coastal aquifers; however, they may have important controls on processes such as submarine groundwater discharge, sea water intrusion, and groundwater discharge to coastal springs and wetlands. We investigated seasonal variations in salinity in a groundwater‐fed coastal wetland (the RAMSAR listed Piccaninnie Ponds in South Australia) and found that salinity peaked during winter, coincident with seasonal sea level peaks. Closer examination of salinity variations revealed a relationship between changes in sea level and changes in salinity, indicating that sea level–driven movement of the fresh water‐sea water interface influences the salinity of discharging groundwater in the wetland. Moreover, the seasonal control of sea level on wetland salinity seems to override the influence of seasonal recharge. A two‐dimensional variable density model helped validate this conceptual model of coastal groundwater discharge by showing that fluctuations in groundwater salinity in a coastal aquifer can be driven by a seasonal coastal boundary condition in spite of seasonal recharge/discharge dynamics. Because seasonal variations in sea level and coastal wetlands are ubiquitous throughout the world, these findings have important implications for monitoring and management of coastal groundwater–dependent ecosystems.     

Population Expousure in the High Seismic Hazard AREA of Low-elevation Coastal Zone in China from 1990 to 2015

中国沿海低地人口稠密、经济发达,是包括地震在内的自然灾害频发地区。由于已有研究成果缺乏对地震灾害暴露和风险的研究,本文利用CoastalDEM、Worldpop人口和中国地震动参数区划等数据,分析1990—2015年中国沿海低地地震高危险性地区人口暴露时空变化特征。研究结果表明,中国沿海低地地震高危险性地区面积为15.1×104 km2,约占全国沿海低地总面积的70.6%;1990—2015年,沿海低地地震高危险性地区暴露人口不断增加,2015年暴露人口达16869万人,与此同时,城市人口快速增长,而农村人口大幅下降。     

Drivers of island beach evolution: insights from an island-scale study at Boa Vista (Cabo Verde)

Beach erosion poses significant threat to small island economies which are generally highly dependent on coastal tourism. This work investigates the evolution of the low-lying sandy coast of Boa Vista through an integrated characterization of coastline and shoreline indicators (over the past four decades) based on aerial imagery. It was found that tandem use of the two indicators was important to obtain a reliable perspective of the Boa Vista low-lying coastal evolution across a wide range of coastal environments. Results indicate that between 1968 and 2010 the coast was relatively stable, although some spatial variability was recognized. The largest changes were observed at the tips of embayed beaches and a clear coastal progradation was found at the southern (downwind) coastal sectors. Coastal evolution has been dominated by sediment budget and the results put in evidence the sedimentary connections between the beaches across the island, either through bypass and overpass processes. Findings show that understanding coastal evolution at low-lying islands should be supported on island-scale observations, being the only scale capable to capture the sedimentary connections between beach systems, that often control coastal evolution. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Geologic framework as a factor controlling coastal morphometry and dynamics.Curonian Spit,Lithuania

The geologic framework is an important factor worth consideration when analyzing the development of seacoasts. The different coastal responses to hydrometeorological and anthropogenic factors depend on the composition and amount of original coast-forming sediments. The impact of sediment composition on morphometric parameters is best observed in areas where sand unrepresentative of the adjacent coastal sectors appears on beaches with a relatively uniform lithological composition. These areas are referred to as lithological anomalies. Large amounts of coarse-grained sand, uncharacteristic of the adjacent coastal sectors of the Curonian spit, accumulated in the area of the strait that existed in the Post-Littorina Late Subboreal(3.7-2.5 ka BP) time south of the Juodkrante settlement. Due to accumulation of coarse sand, the beach in this sector is narrow and has a higher slope, and the ridge is lower and with a smaller volume of sand than in the adjacent coastal sectors. The specific sand composition and morphology of this coastal sector are responsible for different coastal dynamics during storms. During extreme storms, beach erosion in this coastal sector is minimal(sometimes even accretion takes place)compared with other sectors where beach erosion is rather substantial. Meanwhile, during periods of relatively calm weather, i.e. times of expected regeneration of the cross profile, this sector stands out for active erosion processes.     

Upwelling or differential cooling? Analysis of satellite SST images of the Southeastern Baltic Sea

The results of comparative analysis of sea surface temperature variations along horizontal sections in the coastal zone are given. The data used had been taken by MODIS spectroradiometers (Aqua, Terra) in the Southeastern Baltic, in periods of coastal upwelling—in the periods of autumn differential cooling over coastal continental slopes (facilitating water subsidence along these slopes). Studying 135 SST images of coastal upwelling events in May–October 2000–2014 and four cooling events in October–November 2002, 2004, 2005, and 2009 revealed the specific features of the shape of horizontal temperature profiles on sea surface along sections over coastal continental slopes. In addition to the higher differences between water surface temperatures in the deep and coastal parts of the sea (up to 14°C), upwelling features an appreciable distance from the cold-water core to the coast (up to 3–15 km) and a variable shape of horizontal profiles of water temperature on the sea surface along the sections. Conversely, during autumn differential cooling, water temperature difference on the surface is relatively small, the shape of the dependence of surface water temperature on the distance to the shore does not change over time, varies only slightly with the alongshore displacement of the section, and shows low sensitivity to bathymetry and even to wind effect. Thus, the analysis of the shape of the temperature on the sea surface along horizontal sections over coastal continental slopes enables the diagnostics of the regime of vertical water exchange in the coastal zone.     

Mapping water quality and substrate cover in optically complex coastal and reef waters: an integrated approach

Sustainable management of coastal and coral reef environments requires regular collection of accurate information on recognized ecosystem health indicators. Satellite image data and derived maps of water column and substrate biophysical properties provide an opportunity to develop baseline mapping and monitoring programs for coastal and coral reef ecosystem health indicators. A significant challenge for satellite image data in coastal and coral reef water bodies is the mixture of both clear and turbid waters. A new approach is presented in this paper to enable production of water quality and substrate cover type maps, linked to a field based coastal ecosystem health indicator monitoring program, for use in turbid to clear coastal and coral reef waters. An optimized optical domain method was applied to map selected water quality (Secchi depth, Kd PAR, tripton, CDOM) and substrate cover type (seagrass, algae, sand) parameters. The approach is demonstrated using commercially available Landsat 7 Enhanced Thematic Mapper image data over a coastal embayment exhibiting the range of substrate cover types and water quality conditions commonly found in sub-tropical and tropical coastal environments. Spatially extensive and quantitative maps of selected water quality and substrate cover parameters were produced for the study site. These map products were refined by interactions with management agencies to suit the information requirements of their monitoring and management programs.     

New fjords,new coasts,new landscapes: The geomorphology of paraglacial coasts formed after recent glacier retreat in Brepollen (Hornsund,southern Svalbard)

Changes in the properties and dynamics of tidewater glacier systems are key indicators of the state of Arctic climate and environment. Calving of tidewater glacier fronts is currently the dominant form of ice mass loss and a major contributor to global sea-level rise. An important yet under-studied aspect of this process is transformation of Arctic landscapes, where new lands and coastal systems are revealed due to the recession of marine-terminating ice masses. The evolution of those freshly exposed paraglacial coastal environments is controlled by nearshore marine, coastal and terrestrial geomorphic processes, which rework glacial-derived sediments to create new coastal paraglacial landforms and landscapes. Here, we present the first study of the paraglacial coasts of Brepollen, one of the youngest bays of Svalbard revealed by ice retreat. We describe and classify coastal systems and the variety of landforms (deltas, cliffs, tidal flats, beaches) developed along the shores of Brepollen during the last 100 years. We further discuss the main modes of sediment supply to the coast in different parts of the new bay, highlighting the fast rate of coastal transformation as a paraglacial response to rapid deglaciation in the Arctic. This study provides an exemplar of likely coastal responses to be anticipated in similar tidewater settings under future climate change. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd     

Wetland conservation and sustainable coastal governance in Japan and England

Coastal wetlands present particular challenges for coastal governance and for the implementation of the Ramsar Convention, not least because coastal areas are focal points of human activity and of governance ambiguity. Through the evaluation of Ramsar delivery at both national and local levels in Japan and England, the relationship between Ramsar implementation and coastal governance was examined. In England, Ramsar status is primarily treated as a nature conservation designation which limits the wider opportunities inherent in the designation. In contrast, in Japan, the Ramsar Convention is used as a policy driver at the national level and as a leverage to encourage citizen engagement, economic benefit, and wetland conservation at the local level. It was concluded that through the implementation of the Ramsar Convention in important coastal wetland areas, significant steps can be taken towards delivering integrated approaches to coastal governance.     

Environmental perverse incentives in coastal monitoring

It can be argued that the intensity of monitoring of coastal marine environments lags behind the equivalent terrestrial environments. This results in a paucity of long-term time series of key environmental parameters such as turbidity. This lack of management information of the sources and sinks, and causes and impacts of stressors to the coastal marine environment, along with a lack of co-ordination of information collection is compromising the ability of environmental impact assessments of major coastal developments to discriminate between local and remote anthropogenic impacts, and natural or background processes. In particular, the quasi outsourcing of the collection of coastal information can lead to a perverse incentive whereby in many cases nobody is actively or consistently monitoring the coastal marine environment effectively. This is particularly the case with regards to the collection of long-term and whole-of-system scale data. This lack of effective monitoring can act to incentivise poor environmental performance.     

Dynamic responses of coastal structures during earthquakes including sediment–sea–structure interaction

The effects of the interaction among sea water, sediment, backfill-soil and coastal structures (embankments) were included in the present study. The formulation is derived from fundamental theories in various fields, including marine hydrodynamics, flow in porous medium, and structural dynamics. The hybrid finite-difference and finite element methods were used in the analysis. The finite-difference method was used to calculate the nonlinear hydrodynamic pressures of sea water as well as the pore water in the sediment acting on the coastal embankment faces by seismic-wave actions. The fluid-filled solid mixture was used to model sediment and back-fill soil and the corresponding dynamic responses were also evaluated by finite difference method. The dynamic response of the coastal structures was calculated by finite element method. The numerical results are presented for various water depths and ground motion intensities. The significant dynamic forces on coastal structures were calculated during earthquakes and the possible sliding of the coastal embankment will occur and the special foundation treatment should be made.     

Estimation of seawater retreat timescales in homogeneous and confined coastal aquifers based on dimensional analysis

Reliable estimation of the timescales of seawater retreat (SWR) in coastal aquifers has significant implications for sustainable groundwater management in coastal areas. Due to the complexity of coastal dynamics, analytical estimates of SWR timescales are limited in number, and numerical models are mainly utilized. Although numerical models allow for accurate analysis of the coastal systems, they concern particular aquifer cases, thus their results are not generally applicable. Here, we perform a dimensional analysis for the depth-integrated freshwater/seawater continuity equations and identify the dimensionless parameters that affect SWR in confined, homogeneous and flux-controlled aquifers. Based on numerical simulations, we gain insight into how these parameters affect SWR, and produce type curves which can be used as a simple tool for estimating SWR timescales in idealized coastal systems, independent of the hydraulic and geometric characteristics of the aquifer. The reliability of our estimates in real-world applications is also discussed.     

Sub-kilometer length scales in coastal waters

Patchiness or spatial variability is ubiquitous in marine systems. With increasing anthropogenic impacts to coastal resources and coastal systems being disproportionately large contributors to ocean productivity, identifying the spatial scales of this patchiness, particularly in coastal waters, is of critical importance to understand coastal ecosystem dynamics. The current work focuses on fine scale structure in three coastal regions. More specifically, we utilize variogram analyses to identify sub-kilometer scales of variability in biological and physical parameters measured by an autonomous underwater vehicle (AUV) in the Mid-Atlantic Bight, Monterey Bay, and in San Luis Obispo Bay between 2001 and 2004. Critical scales of variability in density, turbidity, fluorescence, and bioluminescence are examined as a function of depth and distance offshore. Furthermore, the effects of undersampling are assessed using predictive error analysis. Results indicate the presence of scales of variability ranging from 10s to 100s of meters and provide valuable insight for sampling design and resource allocation for future studies.     

Influence of the residual circulation on the physico-chemical characteristics of water masses and the dynamics of ecosystems in the Belgian coastal zone

Classical models of the residual circulation in the North Sea predict a north-bound residual flow in the Southern Bight. A more refined model, taking into account the mesoscale Reynolds stress exerted in the mean on the residual flow by the non-linear interactions of mesoscale processes (tides, storm surges, etc.), shows on the contrary off the Belgian coast a south-bound coastal current in relation with a residual coastal gyre. Observations of the physico-chemical characteristics of coastal waters confirm the existence of the gyre. The dynamics of coastal ecosystems here are found to be determined by the gyre; successive stages of the pelagic food chain displaying a typical spatial distribution along the deflected plume of the Scheldt estuary around the gyre ‘outerlagoon’.     

Biodiversity and socio-environmental problems of the south-eastern Baltic coastal zone

The diversity of life occurs at several hierarchical levels of biological organisation, including the biotope (habitats) diversity. The knowledge of the coastal habitat diversity and its sensitivity to the anthropogenic impact is one of the most important preconditions for the sustainable use and development of the coastal regions. This paper gives a brief overview of a recent study, which was aimed to classify the Lithuanian coastal zone underwater habitats and identify anthropogenic threats to the area.     

Coastal aquifer response to extreme storm events in Emilia‐Romagna,Italy

With global warming and sea level rise, many coastal systems will experience increased levels of inundation and storm flooding, especially along sandy lowland coastal areas, such as the Northern Adriatic coast (Italy). Understanding how extreme events may directly affect groundwater hydrology in shallow unconfined coastal aquifers is important to assess coastal vulnerability and quantify freshwater resources. This study investigates shallow coastal aquifer response to storm events. The transitory and permanent effects of storm waves are evaluated through the real time monitoring of groundwater and soil parameters, in order to characterize both the saturated and unsaturated portions of the coastal aquifer of Ravenna and Ferrara (southern Po Delta, Italy). Results highlight a general increase in hydraulic head and soil moisture, along with a decrease in groundwater salinity and pore water salinity due to rainfall infiltration during the 2 days storm event. The only exceptions are represented by the observation wells in proximity to the coastline (within 100 m), which recorded a temporary increase in soil and water salinity caused by the exceptional high waves, which persist on top of the dune crest during the storm event. This generates a saline plume that infiltrates through the vadose zone down to the saturated portion of the aquifer causing a temporary disappearance of the freshwater lens generally present, although limited in size, below the coastal dunes. Despite the high hydraulic conductivity, the aquifer system does not quickly recover the pre‐storm equilibrium and the storm effects are evident in groundwater and soil parameters after 10 days past the storm overwash recess.