东海黑潮强度与东亚冬季风关系的分析研究

利用卫星高度计资料和再分析资料,本文分析研究了东海黑潮强度与东亚冬季风的关系,并初步探讨了二者相互作用的可能机制。结果表明,位置相近的断面,其流强变化具有相似的特征;在年际尺度上,冬季风与东海黑潮存在相互作用。当冬季风偏强,将削弱次年2-4月SC、SD断面的流强,弱冬季风年的情况相反。冬季风对流强影响的动力过程主要通过改变Ekman输送来实现;热力过程则表现为强（弱）冬季风增大（减少）了黑潮向大气释放的热通量,从而削弱（增强）流强,这一过程主要为冬季风对黑潮的影响。当冬季风偏强时,次年10-12月黑潮中下游流强偏弱,弱冬季风年的情况相反。这一过程与2-4月情况不同,其热力过程主要表现为黑潮对冬季风的影响。强冬季风通过准两年振荡对次年冬季的黑潮流强产生影响,由此构成了一个包含海洋和大气耦合过程的正反馈机制。黑潮流域的海气相互作用过程可能受冬季风和黑潮流强相对强弱的调制,海洋过程和大气过程主导一方的转换中存在一个“临界值”。     

围填海工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响

为了深入了解围填海工程对波浪场特别是风浪场的影响,针对10 a 围填海工程对渤海湾地形岸线的改变,将 SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)海浪数值模式应用到渤海湾,讨论了人类大工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响.采用欧洲气象中心每天4次的风场资料作为驱动,模拟渤海湾2000年和2010年的风浪场,着重分析岸线变化显著的3个港口工程(曹妃甸、天津港和黄骅港)附近海域的波浪要素变化.研究结果表明,工程建筑物存在后,有效波高呈减小趋势,港池和潮汐通道内的有效波高减小幅度较大.港口地理位置和海底地形也与岸线变化共同影响着港口附近海域的波浪场分布.围填海工程对波浪有效波高及周期影响的程度不大,有效波高减小值在0.2 m 以下,周期几乎不变.     

北太平洋风应力场变异规律及其与黑潮大弯曲和El—Nino的联系

利用COADS资料,计算北太平洋(包括赤道海区)1949—1979年海表面风应力,对其距平场进行矢量场的EOF分解,得到几个主要的距平风应力模态(EOF1—3)。分析了各自的时空分布特征,分析发现,风应力距平场的EOF1和EOF2模态分别对黑潮大弯曲和E1—Nino事件有重要影响,并讨论了其影响过程,为黑潮大弯曲预报的可能性提供了依据。     

海洋混合层深度时空分布及其与风、浪参数的相关性分析

本文应用一个经验证的全球尺度FVCOM海浪模型,模拟了2012年全球海洋海浪场的分布和演变,分析了海表面风场、海浪场与混合层深度的全球尺度分布及相关性。综合观测资料和模型结果显示,海表面10 m风速、有效波高与混合层深度的全球尺度分布随季节发生显著的变化,并且其分布态势存在明显的相似性。从相关系数的全球分布来看,海表面10 m风速在印度洋低纬度海区（纬度0°~20°）与混合层深度间有较强的相关性,相关系数大于0.5;有效波高与混合层深度间相关系数大于0.5的网格分布在北半球高纬度海区和印度洋北部。谱峰周期与混合层深度间在部分海区存在负相关关系,这些网格主要分布在低纬度海区（纬度0°~30°）。统计结果显示,有效波高、海表面10 m风速和谱峰周期与混合层深度间的平均相关系数分别为0.31、0.25和0.12。综合以上结果表明,有效波高较谱峰周期能更有效地表征波浪能对海洋上层混合的影响;相比于海表面风速,有效波高与混合层深度间存在更强的相关关系,其变化对海洋上层混合有更显著的影响。     

海浪的特征波陡

在现有的海浪要素统计分布的理论框架下具体地推导了二维海浪波良与波长的联合统计分布,波长统计分布以及波陡的统计分布,在此基础上对上特征波陡的定义及期 承风要素的变化规律做了较为细致的讨论。     

Statistical properties of successive wave heights and successive wave periods

Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations.     

Winds and Waves in the Yellow and East China Seas: A Comparison of Spaceborne Altimeter Measurements and Model Results

Wind speed and wave height measured by satellite altimeters represent a good data source to the study of global and regional wind and wave conditions. In this paper, the TOPEX altimeter wind and wave measurements in the Yellow and East China Seas are analyzed. The results provide a glimpse on the statistical properties and the spatial distributions of the regional wind and wave conditions. These data are excellent for use in the validation and verification of numerical simulations on global and regional scales. The altimeter measurements are compared with model output of temporal statistics and spatial distributions. The results show that the model simulations are in good agreement with TOPEX measurements in terms of the local mean and standard deviation of the variables (wave height and wind speed). For the comparison of spatial distributions, the quality of agreement between numerical simulations and altimeter measurements varies significantly from cycle to cycle of altimeter passes. In many cases, trends in the spatial distributions of wave heights and wind speeds between simulations and measurements are opposite. The statistics of biases, rms differences, linear regression coefficients and correlation coefficients are presented. A rather large percentage (∼50%) of cases show poor agreement based on a combination of low correlation, large rms difference or bias, and poor regression coefficient. There are indications that wave age is a factor affecting the performance of wave modeling skills. Generally speaking, the error statistics in the wave field is correlated to the corresponding error statistics in the wind field under the condition of active wind-wave generation. The error statistics between the wave field and the wind field become less correlated for large wave ages. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

宁波北仑海域风浪统计性质研究

根据宁波北仑海域的连续3a的实测风浪资料,讨论了在不同风速条件下波高分布和周期分布,以及两者的联合分布;通过与理论结果的比较,得出波高分布与Rayleigh分布基本符合,但有一些差异,周期分布与孙孚的理论周期分布较符合,而波高与周期的联合分布除了图形的形状以及大波对应的无因次周期的值与孙孚的理论值有差异外,两者吻合较好。     

Wave height forecasting in Dayyer, the Persian Gulf

Forecasting of wave parameters is necessary for many marine and coastal operations. Different forecasting methodologies have been developed using the wind and wave characteristics. In this paper, artificial neural network (ANN) as a robust data learning method is used to forecast the wave height for the next 3, 6, 12 and 24 h in the Persian Gulf. To determine the effective parameters, different models with various combinations of input parameters were considered. Parameters such as wind speed, direction and wave height of the previous 3 h, were found to be the best inputs. Furthermore, using the difference between wave and wind directions showed better performance. The results also indicated that if only the wind parameters are used as model inputs the accuracy of the forecasting increases as the time horizon increases up to 6 h. This can be due to the lower influence of previous wave heights on larger lead time forecasting and the existing lag between the wind and wave growth. It was also found that in short lead times, the forecasted wave heights primarily depend on the previous wave heights, while in larger lead times there is a greater dependence on previous wind speeds.     

吕宋冷涡的年际变化及影响机制分析

基于吕宋岛附近海域1985-2020年的海表温度、风应力和海面高度等卫星资料,分析吕宋冷涡(Luzon Cold Eddy,LCE)强度及中心位置的年际及长期变化趋势,探讨风场和黑潮入侵在LCE变化过程中的作用.结果 表明:35 a来,LCE整体呈现减弱趋势,其中心位置最大概率出现在(117°54′E,18°06′N)...     

涌浪作用下港内波况试验研究

基于秘鲁钱凯港的防波堤三维整体模型试验结果,研究了涌浪绕射、透射联合作用对港内波况的影响.分析了不同波向、不同谱峰周期的入射波条件下港内不同功能区的波况分布规律,并对比分析了具有不同周期的入射波对港内不同区域波高的影响,兼顾分析了波向的影响.结果表明,在涌浪作用下,受透射、绕射影响,不同入射波条件下港内比波高分布规律相...     

New Zealand wave climate from satellite observations

Wave data derived from radar altimeters carried on four satellite missions are combined into a wave climatology for New Zealand waters. These data provide extensive observations of wave conditions around New Zealand, where the paucity of measurements has previously hindered definition of the wave climate. The data span the period 1985 to the present with the exception of a 2‐year gap in 1989–91. The spatial distribution of the long‐term mean of significant wave heights (SWH) indicates a strong latitudinal variation in the south‐west Pacific, with values of over 4 m at latitudes of 50–60°S and under 2.5 m towards the tropics. The shadowing of New Zealand is quite marked; a result of the dominant contribution of south‐westerly wave events. The annual range of the mean SWH also varies over the region; within 0.6 m in the north and 1.3 m in the south. A principal component analysis of the monthly anomalies in mean SWH identifies spatial patterns of variation. Some components vary with the local wind more than others suggesting that some anomalies are associated with wind sea and some with swell. Some patterns also appear to vary with the Southern Oscillation Index and can be related to the wind anomalies associated with El Nino events. Frequency distributions of SWH are also determined, and it is noted that in the north of the region the spatial pattern of the high waves differs considerably from the means.     

Numerical simulation of non-gaussian process of wind waves

In this paper further mathematical analysis on "correlation transfer technique" by Polge el al. is carried out, the tenable conditions and the extent of suitability for the said method are proved as well. In consideration of the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on spectral shape, a "quasi-correlation transfer techique" is developed by the modification of the simulated target spectrum. Meanwhile, the numerical simulation of the non-Gaussian process of wind waves is carried out in view of the two conditions of the surface elevation probability distribution and the spectrum. By using its simulated results, the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on two parameters in the distribution of wave heights (which had been fitted by using the Weibull distribution) is analysed. The "quasi- correlation tranfer technique" is verified and compared with the selection wave data observed in the Jiaozhou Bay in the period of 1980 to 1981. Results make clear (hat, as far as the statistical d     

Calibration and verification of a spectral wind–wave model for Lake Okeechobee

A spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulation WAves Nearshore) that represents the generation, propagation and dissipation of waves was applied to Lake Okeechobee. This model includes the effects of refraction, shoaling, and blocking in wave propagation. It accounts for wave dissipation by whitecapping, bottom friction, and depth-induced wave breaking. The wave–wave interaction effect also is included in this model. Measurements of wind and wave heights were made at different stations and different time periods in Lake Okeechobee. Significant wave height values were computed from the recorded data. The correlation between wind stress and significant wave height also was analyzed. A 6-day simulation using 1989 data was conducted for model calibration. Another 6-day simulation using 1996 data was conducted for model verification. The simulated significant wave heights were found to agree reasonably well with measured significant wave heights for calibration and verification periods. Agreement between observed and simulated values was based on graphical comparisons, mean, absolute and root mean square errors, and correlation coefficient. Comparisons showed that the model reproduced both general observed trends and short term fluctuations.     

Wave run-up on cylindrical and cone shaped foundations for offshore wind turbines

During the last decade, several offshore wind-farms were built and offshore wind energy promises to be a suitable alternative to provide green energy. However, there are still some engineering challenges in placing the foundations of offshore wind turbines. For example, wave run-up and wave impacts cause unexpected damage to boat landing facilities and platforms. To assess the forces due to wave run-up, the distribution of run-up around the pile and the maximum run-up height need to be known. This article describes a physical model study of the run-up heights and run-up distribution on two shapes of foundations for offshore wind turbines, including both regular and irregular waves. The influence of wave steepness, wave height and water depth on run-up is investigated. The measured run-up values are compared with applicable theories and previous experimental studies predicting run-up on a circular pile.     

Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper

The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.     

海流流速计算的研究

由于大范围同步连续观测海流流速很困难,这才产生建立一定的理论及方法认真计算海流流速的要求.可是,过去沿用至今的动力计算[1],方法虽简便,但只能计算因密度分布所生的梯度流(或地转流),且存在着既不考虑风力,又不顾及湍流摩擦力,再加无运动面难以确定,即令设法作出浅海订正,其结果又往往与事实不符等根本性缺陷;而如籍Ekman漂流理论计算海流,又仅能计算因风所生的漂流,且还存在着既不考虑海水密度分布,又视海面无倾斜,再加湍流动力粘滞系量难以确定等与实际相差较远的理论依据.近代兴起的一些海流数值计算,又往往都局限于全流或深度平均流速的计算.因此,建立一种既考虑到海洋内部海水分布,又考虑到海面风力外加海面大气压力作用,顾及到海洋中湍流摩擦力,又体现流速随深度变化,而更重要的是应用起来简易的计算海流流速的理论及方法,便成为很需要解决的问题了.     

风浪波高间相关性和在波群中波高累积概率

通过分析实验室风浪资料,研究风浪波高间的相关性以及波群中波高累积概率问题,发现风浪波高间相关性虽然主要发生在相邻波之间,但在隔1个波和隔2个波的波高间仍存在一定的相关性。谱宽度对波高间的相关性产生影响,但在相邻波、隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对波高间的相关性的影响方式不同。在相邻波情形下,谱宽度主要影响较大波高间的相关性,对各种高度波高间的总体相关性影响很小。而在隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对各种高度波高间的总体相关性有明显影响。根据实验结果提出含有波高相关因子的波群中多个波波高累积概率分布。     

Evolution of waves and currents over a submerged laboratory shoal

The vertically-integrated effect of interaction between waves and wave-induced currents on wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal was investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction- diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269–284.]. The numerical simulations were performed using two numerical wave-current model systems: one, a combination of the wave model SWAN and the current model SHORECIRC, and the other, a combination of the wave model REF/DIF and the same current model. A time-dependent, phase-resolving wave and current model, FUNWAVE, was also utilized to simulate the experiment. In the simulations, the developed wave-induced currents defocused waves behind the shoal and brought on a wave shadow zone that showed relatively low wave height distributions. For the breaking case of monochromatic waves, the wave heights computed using FUNWAVE showed good agreement with the measurements and the resulting wave-induced currents showed a jet-like velocity distribution in transverse direction. And the computed results of the two model combinations agreed better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction. However, it was found that for the case in which transverse interference pattern caused by refracted waves was strong, REF/DIF-SHORECIRC did not correctly evaluate radiation stresses, the gradients of which generate wave-induced currents. SWAN-SHORECIRC, which cannot deal with the interference patterns, predicted a jet-like wave-induced current. For breaking random wave cases, the computed results of the two model combinations and FUNWAVE agreed well with the measurements. The agreements indicate that it is necessary to take into account the effect of wave-induced current on wave refraction when wave breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.     

Estimation of Design Wave Heights for Coastal Sea Areas

Based on historical wind fields in the Bohai Sea,a sequence of annual extremal wave heightsis produced with numerical wave models for deep-water and shallow water.The design wave heights withdifferent return periods for the nearest deep-water point and for the shallow water point are estimated onthe basis of P-Ⅲ type,Weibull distribution,and Gumbel distribution;and the corresponding values for theshallow water point are also estimated based on the HISWA model with the input of design wave heightsfor the nearest deep-water point.Comparisons between design wave heights for the shallow water point es-timated on the basis of both distribution functions are HISWA model show that the results from differentdistribution functions scatter considerably,and influenced strongly by return periods;however,the resultsfrom the HISWA model are convergent,that is,the influence of the design wave heights estimated with dif-ferent distribution functions for deep water is weakened,and the estimated values decrease for long