Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.     

The liquefaction and displacement of highly saturated sand under water pressure oscillation

In order to investigate the characteristics of water wave induced liquefaction in highly saturated sand in vertical direction, a one-dimensional model of highly saturated sand to water pressure oscillation is presented based on the two-phase continuous media theory. The development of the effective stresses and the liquefaction thickness are analyzed. It is shown that water pressure oscillating loading affects liquefaction severely and the developing rate of liquefaction increases with the decreasing of the sand strength or the increasing of the loading strength. It is shown also that there is obvious phase lag in the sand column. If the sand permeability is non-uniform, the pore pressure and the strain rise sharply at which the smallest permeability occurs. This solution may explain why the fracture occurs in the sand column in some conditions.     

Pressure characteristics of bubble collapse near a rigid wall in compressible fluid

High speed liquid jet and shockwave can be produced when a bubble collapses near a rigid wall, which may cause severe damage to solid structures. A hybrid algorithm was adopted to simulate bubble motion and associated pressures near a wall combining Level Set-Modified Ghost Fluid-Discontinuous Galerkin (LS-MGF-DG) method and boundary element method (BEM). Numerical results were compared with experimental data to validate the presented algorithm. Jet formation was simulated by BEM and the induced pressure on the wall was calculated with auxiliary function. The pressure at the point on the wall where the jet points to reaches its peak value after the jet penetrates the bubble. Bubble collapse and rebounding were simulated by the LS-MGF-DG method. Shock-wave is induced when the bubble collapse toroidally to a minimum volume and the pressure at wall center reaches the maximum due to shockwave superposition. A third pressure peak is found associated with the bubble rebounds and bubble splitting. In the case studied, a higher pressure was found due to collapse shockwave than bubble jet and affects a larger area of the wall. In addition, the three pressure peaks due to jet impact, collapse impact as well as bubble rebounding and splitting decrease with the increase of the standoff distance.     

Run-up of surface waves on a sea wall built on a convex bottom profile

Wave run-up on a sea wall built on a convex bottom profile is studied in the framework of linear shallow water theory. When the wall is located in “deeper water,” a wave is reflected from the wall without changing its shape and phase, which is fully consistent with classical considerations. If the wall is shifted towards the shore, the shape of the wave changes in a complex way. Note that the wave phase changes to the opposite in the limiting case when the wall is located right on the shore. The role of nonlinear effects is studied by means of numerical simulations using nonlinear shallow water theory. It is shown that the contribution of nonlinear effects and breaking is high on a convex-shaped beach, which makes the structure of the wave field rather complicated.     

The hydrostatic motor: Utilization of hydrostatic pressure differentials in the deep sea

A hydrostatic motor that converts hydrostatic pressure gradients in the deep sea into harnessable mechanical energy has been developed and successfully tested. Controlled equalization between higher ambient hydrostatic pressures at oceanic depths and lower pressures retained from atmospheric or sea-level conditions—sealed within a chamber as part of the motor assembly—produces reciprocating motion of a piston. This motion is utilized for power or work requirements. Our needs have been directed toward oceanographic instrumentation requirements but many other applications are likely.     

深水滑翔机器人耐压壳体结构优化设计

针对深水滑翔机器人耐压壳体在深水中压缩变形和海水密度随水深增大而变化等因素造成驱动浮力变化问题,利用压缩变形和密度变化对驱动浮力影响的互补特性,归纳了载体耐压壳体结构优化设计方法.保证耐压壳体抗压条件和质量最小前提下采用结构优化设计方法,降低耐压壳体压缩变形和海水密度变化对驱动浮力的影响,提高系统能源的利用率.     

深埋海底隧洞内水压力下饱和土的动力特性

将衬砌分别视为多孔柔性材料和弹性介质,在频率域内研究内水压力作用下饱和分数导数黏弹性土-深埋圆形隧洞多孔柔性或弹性衬砌系统的耦合简谐振动。土体的宏观力学特性采用多孔介质理论来模拟。通过引入与土体体积分数相关的应力系数,利用衬砌和土体界面处位移连续,分别得到饱和黏弹性土和衬砌的位移、应力和孔隙水压力等的解析表达式。在此基础上,分析了多孔柔性衬砌和弹性衬砌结构的差异,并考察了应力系数、渗透系数、分数阶导数本构参数等对系统动力响应的影响,结果表明:多孔柔性衬砌材料条件下系统的动力响应明显大于弹性衬砌材料条件下系统的动力响应;随着分数导数阶数和材料参数比的增加,系统共振效应明显减弱;衬砌边界透水和不透水只是反映边界渗透性的两种极限状态。     

Measurements of the wall pressure spectra on a full-scale experimental towed array

Turbulent wall pressure data acquired during tests of a full-scale experimental towed array over a range of tow speeds in straight tows and turns is presented. The experimental towed array contained a linear array of sensors mounted at the fluid–solid interface to measure the spectra of the wall pressure fluctuations due to the cylindrical turbulent boundary layer. The physics are dominated by the growth of a thick, high Reynolds number turbulent boundary layer at arc length Reynolds numbers as high as 9×10⁸. The measured wavenumber-frequency spectra, autospectra, cross-spectral decay and convection velocities are presented. A well-defined convective ridge exists in the wavenumber-frequency spectra obtained during straight tows and turns. Turns give rise to a complicated fluid–structure interaction problem, but do not lead to the separation of the turbulent boundary layer. As the array moves through a turn, flow-induced vibrations of the array are shown to dominate the spectra at low frequencies, with more rapid decay in the measured coherence occurring at higher frequencies. The use of tow speed as a velocity scale is shown to collapse autospectra and convection velocities.     

Finite vertical oscillation of fluid parcel in a heterogeneous,incompressible sea water—Part I

The solutions of vertical oscillation of finite amplitude of a fluid parcel in a heterogeneous, incompressible sea water were obtained, solving rigorously the equation of motion, retaining small terms to the third order of the amplitude non-dimensionized by a vertical reference length. The motion is asymmetric with respect to its equilibrium position and the period of motion is longer than that of infinitesimal Väisälä oscillation. When the vertical velocity of the parcel exceeds certain critical value, oscillation of large amplitude sets in near the outskirts of the thermocline, its period being more than twice larger than that of Väisälä oscillation. The apprehension whether this type of the increased vertical motion might be influenced or denied by the horizontal motion in such a case as in internal waves is also discussed. From some observations which will be appeared in Part II, we found oscillations of large amplitude with the period which is in good agreement with the theoretical result.     

Finite vertical oscillation of fluid parcel in a heterogeneous,incompressible sea water—Part II

Observations of temperature fluctuations and simultaneous observations of temperature and salinity fluctuations conducted in the sea are carefully analyzed on the theoretical basis developed in Part I. Observed remarkable fluctuations of about 10 minutes period are considered to agree with the unstable oscillations obtained from the theory. Actual oscillations observed in the sea are regarded to have small wave length such that they satisfy the condition (F) described in the Section 1 of Part I.     

The calculation of turbulent characteristics in a shallow sea

Turbulent characteristics and current velocity are calculated in the framework of a quasistationary model for a shallow sea, using the equations for Reynolds stress transport and for the rate of dissipation. The paper shows that the ‘negative viscosity’ effect manifests itself in the near-bottom layer, related to energy transfer from pulse motions of turbulent flow to the mean ones. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The average impulse responce of a rough surface and its applications

This paper is concerned with the theoretical model for short pulse scattering from a statistically random planar surface with particular application to current state of the art radar altimetry. A short review of the assumptions inherent in the convolutional model is presented. Simplified expressions are obtained for both the impulse response and the average backscattered power for near normal incidence under the assumptions common to satellite radar altimetry systems. In particular, it is shown that the conventional two-dimensional surface integration can be reduced to a closed form solution. Two applications of these results are presented relative to radar altimetry, namely, radar antenna pointing angle determination and altitude bias correction for pointing angle and surface roughness effects. It is also shown that these results have direct application to the analysis of the two frequency system proposed by Weissman, and a possible combined long pulse altimeter and two frequency system is suggested.     

The sea as a source of atmospheric phosphorus

The geochemical fractionation of phosphorus on the drop produced by bubbles bursting in seawater has been studied using a field sampling system called the Bubble Interfacial Microlayer Sampler (BIMS). The droplets from bursting bubbles were collected on filter samples in Narragansett Bay, Rhode Island during the summer of 1975. Phosphorus was found to be fractionated by the bubble-bursting process. The enrichment factor ranged from 4 to 170. Enrichment was found to increase with decreasing phosphorus concentration at 20 cm depth while it decreases with increasing wind velocity. Enrichment was independent of bubbling depth. Together these facts suggest that the sea-surface microlayer is the source of the phosphorus on the ejected drops. Organic phosphorus on the filter samples was found to be enriched relative to surface-water phosphorus by factors of 100–200, while reactive phosphorus was enriched by factors of only 6–8. This suggests that surface-active organic phosphorus compounds are the source phosphorus in the microlayer.The organic phosphorus content of samples of atmospheric particulates collected over the phosphate-rich upwelling waters near the Peru coast was found to correlate significantly with sea-salt sodium. Enrichments calculated using the average phosphorus concentration of the surface water in this area agree well with the results of the BIMS study. Thus it appears that phosphorus fractionation does occur in nature and may be important in supplying this nutrient to some coastal regions of the world.     

The dynamic behavior of a gas bubble near a wall

In this paper, a numerical model based on the potential flow theory is established to simulate the interaction of a gas bubble with a nearby wall. The time-integration boundary integral method is used to solve the dynamics of a gas bubble. With this method the numerical calculations show an excellent agreement with the experimental data. Employing the numerical code based on the presented algorithm, the dynamics of a gas bubble close to a rigid wall is investigated systematically, especially the relationship between various characteristic parameters and the Bjerknes effect due to the presence of a nearby wall. It is found that Blake's criterion, which is usually used to predict the direction of the bubble jet, has a great degree of accuracy for the bubble relatively far away from the wall and bubble near a wall, there is a significant error, attributed to its simplifications and assumptions. Further studies show that an oblique jet will be formed when a bubble close to an inclined wall collapses, direction and width of which have a close relationship with the characteristic parameters used to characterize the bubble. For the bubble near a horizontal wall, a liquid jet pointing directly to the wall is developed generally when the Bjerknes attraction and buoyancy are in the same direction; and at the same time, if the Bjerknes attraction is in the opposite direction of buoyancy, the direction of the jet will depend on a criterion. Then the interaction of gas bubble between complicated walls of some a submarine is also studied, which shows the most dangerous induced loading condition of structure in water, and the evidently effects of bubble jet on loading. The special phenomena mentioned above have a great significance for the further study on the interaction of the bubble with its boundaries.     

Random wave runup and overtopping a steep sea wall: Shallow-water and Boussinesq modelling with generalised breaking and wall impact algorithms validated against laboratory and field measurements

A semi-implicit shallow-water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves. At a given time breaking is said to occur if the wave height to water depth ratio for each individual wave exceeds a critical value of 0.6 and the Boussinesq terms are simply switched off. The example is presented of waves breaking over an offshore reef and then ceasing to break as they propagate inshore into deeper water and finally break as they run up a slope. This is not possible with the conventional criterion of a single onset of breaking based on rate of change of surface elevation which was also found to be less effective generally. The runup distribution on the slope inshore of the reef was well predicted. The model is tested against field data for overtopping available for Anchorsholme, Blackpool and corresponding 1:15 scale wave flume tests. Reflection of breaking waves impacting a steep sea wall is represented as a partial reversal of momentum flux with an empirically defined coefficient. Offshore to nearshore significant wave height variation was reasonably predicted although nearshore model spectra showed distinct differences from the experiments. The breaking wave shape described by a shape parameter was also not well represented as might be expected for such a simple model. Overtopping agreement between model, field and flume was generally good although repeatability of two nominally identical flume experiments was only within 25%. Different distributions of random phase between spectral components can cause overall overtopping rates to differ by up to a factor of two. Predictions of mean discharge by EurOtop methods were within a factor of two of experimental measurements.     

The vertical impact of a wedge on a fluid

Von Kármán first proposed a method of calculating the force on a vertically impacting wedge in 1929. Starting with Wagner (1931, 1932), quite a number of authors have suggested “improvements” to the theory. One purpose of this present note in to suggest that many of the proposed changes are actually incorrect and that the original theory is superior to most of its successors. The other purpose is to suggest a way in which the rigor of the Von Kármán theory can be improved and how the maximum pressure away from the keel can be calculated. Where comparison is possible, both the keel pressure and the maximum pressure predictions agree well with measurements by Chuang (1966).     

The discovery of a natural whale fall in the Antarctic deep sea

Large cetacean carcasses at the deep-sea floor, known as ‘whale falls’, provide a resource for generalist-scavenging species, chemosynthetic fauna related to those from hydrothermal vents and cold seeps, and remarkable bone-specialist species such as Osedax worms. Here we report the serendipitous discovery of a late-stage natural whale fall at a depth of 1444 m in the South Sandwich Arc. This discovery represents the first natural whale fall to be encountered in the Southern Ocean, where cetaceans are abundant. The skeleton was situated within a seafloor caldera, in close proximity (<250 m) to active hydrothermal vents. We used a DNA barcoding approach to identify the skeleton as that of an Antarctic minke whale (Balaenoptera bonaerensis). The carcass was in an advanced state of decomposition, and its exposed bones were occupied by a diverse assemblage of fauna including nine undescribed species. These bone fauna included an undescribed species of Lepetodrilus limpet that was also present at the nearby hydrothermal vents, suggesting the use of whale-fall habitats as stepping stones between chemosynthetic ecosystems. Using Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) videography, we have quantified the composition and abundance of fauna on the whale bones, and tested a hypothesis that varying concentrations of lipids in the bones of whales may influence the microdistribution of sulfophilic whale-fall fauna. Our data supported the hypothesis that more lipid-rich bones support a greater abundance of sulfophilic bacterial mats, which are also correlated with the abundance of grazing limpets (Pyropelta sp.). The abundance of Osedax sp. on bones however, showed a negative correlation with the bacterial-mat percentage cover, and hence greatest abundance on bones predicted to have lowest lipid content.     

上海近海一次低压控制下春季海雾空间差异分析

根据海上浮标实测数据和再分析数据,发现2016年4月20—23日长江口航道附近南北海雾存在的显著空间差异主要受到水汽以及风场的影响。分析表明:(1)本次海雾过程高空受低压槽控制近地面处低压过境,切变线东移导致低空风向的迅速转变,此后受到暖锋影响,导致短时小雨过程的发生;(2)此次海雾过程受风场的影响较大,盛行南风时水汽充足,湿度较大,容易产生海雾,受西北风主导时,则容易出现海雾消散的情况;(3)长江口外北部站点和南部站点存在显著空间差异性,北部站点能见度明显好于南部站点,并且在此次海雾过程中北部站点先于南部站点出现一次能见度好转的情况,这是由于低压过境导致风向骤变,北部未获得充分的水汽供给所致。此次低压槽天气过程在长江口南北产生区域差异显著的海雾,对这种典型风向骤变过程分析有助于为航运密集的长江口海雾预报提供参考。     

基于海杂波随机游走模型的多重分形谱分析

海杂波具有非线性、非平稳和时变特性,多重分形测度分析是对物理系统局部奇异性的一个完整描述。本文根据海杂波电磁散射的经典模型——随机游走模型,利用随机微分理论对海杂波的物理特性进行了系统地建模分析。建立了描述海杂波电磁散射时变特性的随机微分方程,利用Itô公式得到了海杂波散射信号幅度和相位的扩散过程模型,并利用多重分形谱分析了该模型的奇异性。为了验证其准确性,与加拿大McMaster大学IPIX雷达实测海杂波数据的多重分形谱进行对比,实验结果表明两者完全一致,从而表明基于随机游走的随机微分模型是描述海杂波动力学机理的有效算法。