多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟

在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型,综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论,将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后,分别计算各组成波的传播变形,再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解,计算效率高,稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证,数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟,给出了合理的港内波高分布。     

Performance of a numerical short-wave model

A numerical short-wave model system based on the Boussinesq equations is verified against analytical as well as experimental results for shoaling, refraction, diffraction and partial reflection processes. It is shown that engineers can confidently and responsibly apply such a model system to the study of wave disturbance in coastal regions.     

Numerical simulation of wave transformation and runup incorporating porous media wave absorber and turbulence models

A numerical wave tank is first established using the Navier–Stokes equations and the VOF method assuming laminar flow. The standard k–ε, realizable k–ε and RNG k–ε turbulent models are then incorporated to the numerical tank. An effective numerical method for wave absorption utilizing the energy-dissipating property of porous media is also included. To validate the accuracy of the proposed models, the propagation of a solitary wave, where analytical solution is available for comparison, is first simulated. This is followed by the simulation of irregular wave runup on a composite seawall, wave propagation over submerged bars and wave refraction and diffraction over an elliptic shoal, where experimental data are available for comparison. All computed results agree well with either the analytical solution or the experimental data.     

Propagation of solitary waves over a submerged permeable breakwater

We study the interactions between a non-breaking solitary wave and a submerged permeable breakwater experimentally and numerically. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is employed to measure instantaneous free surface displacements and velocity fields in the vicinity of a porous dike. The porous medium, consisting of uniform glass spheres, is mounted on the seafloor. Due to the limited size of each field of view (FOV) for high spatial resolution purposes, four FOVs are set in order to form a continuous flow field around the structure. Quantitative mean properties are obtained by ensemble averaging 30 repeated instantaneous measurements. The Reynolds decomposition method is then adopted to separate the velocity fluctuations for each trial to estimate the turbulent kinetic energy. In addition, a highly accurate two-dimensional model with the volume of fluid interface tracking technique is used to simulate an idealized volume-averaged porous medium. The model is based on the Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations coupled with the non-linear k–ε turbulence closure solver. Comparisons are performed between measurements and numerical results for the time histories of the free surface elevation recorded by wave gauges and the spatial distributions of free surface displacement with the corresponding velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around the permeable object imaged by the PIV system. Fairly good agreements are obtained. It is found that the measured and modeled turbulent intensities on the weather side are much larger than those on the lee side of the object, and that the magnitude of the turbulent intensity increases with increasing wave height of a solitary wave at a constant water depth. The verified numerical model is then used to estimate the energy reflection, transmission and dissipation using the energy integral method by varying the aspect ratio and the grain size of the permeable obstacle.     

基于Boussinesq方程近岸波浪演变的数值研究

首先对目前描述近岸波浪传播变形的数学模型进行了回顾与总结;对不同数学模型的特点、适用范围和发展情况进行了阐述与对比。应用基于Boussinesq方程的Coulwave模式针对几个经典实验地形进行了数值实验,数值结果和实验实测数据吻合较好。此外,分别采用不同的近岸波浪模型模拟了某渔港附近波浪的传播变形,结果表明:当考虑波浪的折射、绕射、反射联合作用时,Coulwave模式计算结果明显较缓坡方程及SWAN模型计算结果更加合理。     

A coupled numerical model of wave interaction with porous medium

A new coupling model of wave interaction with porous medium is established in which the wave field solver is based on the two dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with a kε closure. Incident waves, which could be linear waves, cnoidal waves or solitary waves, are produced by a piston-type wave maker in the computational domain and the free surface is traced through the Piecewise Linear Interface Construction-Volume of Fluid (PLIC-VOF) method. Nonlinear Forchheimer equations are adopted to calculate the flow field within the porous media. By introducing a velocity–pressure correction equation, the wave field and the porous flow field are highly and efficiently coupled. The two fields are solved simultaneously and no boundary condition is needed at the interface of the internal porous flow and the external wave. The newly developed numerical model is used to simulate wave interaction with porous seabed and the numerical results agree well with the experimental data. The additional numerical tests are also conducted to study the effects of seabed thickness, porosity and permeability coefficient on wave damping and the pore water pressure responses.     

Modeling nonlinear wave–wave interactions with the elliptic mild slope equation

An approach is developed to simulate wave–wave interactions using nonlinear elliptic mild-slope equation in domains where wave reflection, refraction, diffraction and breaking effects must also be considered. This involves the construction of an efficient solution procedure including effective boundary treatment, modification of the nonlinear equation to resolve convergence issues, and validation of the overall approach. For solving the second-order boundary-value problem, the Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI) scheme is employed, and the use of approximate boundary conditions is supplemented, for improved accuracy, with internal wave generation method and dissipative sponge layers. The performance of the nonlinear model is investigated for a range of practical wave conditions involving reflection, diffraction and shoaling in the presence of nonlinear wave–wave interactions. In addition, the transformation of a wave spectrum due to nonlinear shoaling and breaking, and nonlinear resonance inside a rectangular harbor are simulated. Numerical calculations are compared with the results from other relevant nonlinear models and experimental data available in literature. Results show that the approach developed here performs reasonably well, and has thus improved the applicability of this class of wave transformation models.     

Wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate

By applying the linear water wave theory and the eigenfunction expansion method, the wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate is investigated in this paper. The numerical results, concerning the effects of the dimensionless plate length, the relative water depth, and the porous effect parameter of the plate on the wave loads on the plate and the wave height near the wall as well as the reflection coefficient, are discussed. It is found that the submerged plate increases the complexity of the phenomenon related to the wave reflection and refraction in the close region of the wall, and leads to the occurrence of the phenomenon of wave trapping. The results indicate that there may exist a process of focusing wave energy near the wall for small dimensionless porous effect parameters, whereas the increase of the dimensionless porous effect parameter decreases gradually the wave height until setdown occurs. The behavior of a larger plate with proper porosity is similar to that of a wave absorber which can significantly suppress not only the wave height above the plate but also the reflection waves. The ability of the porous plate to reduce the wave height on the wall surface is, in general, directly proportional to the dimensionless plate length and may be strongest for a proper value of the dimensionless porous effect parameter. It is also demonstrated that the wave loads on a porous plate are smaller than those on an impermeable plate.     

The numerical study of wave-induced pore water pressure response in highly permeable seabed

The coupling numerical model of wave interaction with porous medium is used to study waveinduced pore water pressure in high permeability seabed.In the model,the wave field solver is based on the two dimensional Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes(RANS) equations with a k-ε closure,and Forchheimer equations are adopted for flow within the porous media.By introducing a Velocity-Pressure Correction equation for the wave flow and porous flow,a highly efficient coupling between the two flows is implemented.The numerical tests are conducted to study the effects of seabed thickness,porosity,particle size and intrinsic permeability coefficient on regular wave and solitary wave-induced pore water pressure response.The results indicate that,as compared with regular wave-induced,solitary wave-induced pore water pressure has larger values and stronger action on seabed with different parameters.The results also clearly show the flow characteristics of pore water flow within seabed and water wave flow on seabed.The maximum pore water flow velocities within seabed under solitary wave action are higher than those under regular wave action.     

A finite difference method for effective treatment of mild-slope wave equation subject to non-reflecting boundary conditions

A numerical model for coastal water wave motion that includes an effective method for treatment of non-reflecting boundaries is presented. The second-order one-way wave equation to approximate the non-reflecting boundary condition is found to be excellent and it ensures a very low level of reflection for waves approaching the boundary at a fairly wide range of the incidence angle. If the Newman approximation is adopted, the resulting boundary condition has a unique property to allow the free propagation of wave components along the boundary. The study is also based on a newly derived mild-slope wave equation system that can be easily made compatible to the one-way wave equation. The equation system is theoretically more accurate than the previous equations in terms of the mild-slope assumption. The finite difference method defined on a staggered grid is employed to solve the basic equations and to implement the non-reflecting boundary condition. For verification, the numerical model is then applied to three coastal water wave problems including the classical problem of plane wave diffraction by a vertical circular cylinder, the problem of combined wave diffraction and refraction over a submerged hump in the open sea, and the wave deformation around a detached breakwater. In all cases, the numerical results are demonstrated to agree very well with the relevant analytical solutions or with experimental data. It is thus concluded that the numerical model proposed in this study is effective and advantageous.     

Forward Scattering From a Rippled Sand/Water Interface: Modeling, Measurements, and Determination of the Plane Wave, Flat Surface Reflection Coefficient

In this paper, modeling results are presented demonstrating that, using an ensemble of forward-scattering measurements from a rippled sand/water interface, it is possible to accurately estimate the plane wave, flat surface reflection coefficient. The modeling effort was carried out in preparation for a sediment acoustics experiment in 2004 (SAX04). Guided by the modeling results, forward-scattering measurements were made during SAX04. The measurement instrumentation and procedure are presented. The plane wave reflection coefficients derived from these measurements are given and compared to reflection coefficients calculated using a fluid model and an approximation to the Biot porous medium model for the sand known as the effective density fluid model (EDFM). The model reflection coefficients were calculated using acoustic parameters determined from environmental measurements carried out by other researchers involved in SAX04. The reflection coefficient data/model comparison indicates that the sand at the SAX04 site is most accurately viewed as a porous medium for acoustic modeling purposes.      

Numerical Modeling of Wave and Current Interaction in the Tidal Inlet Area

This paper investigates the phenomena of wave refraction and diffraction in the slowly varying topography, as well as the current deflection due to wave actions. A numerical model is developed based on depth integrated mean continuity equation and momentum equations, and a 3rd-order wave equation which governs the wave diffraction, refraction and interaction with current. Examples to examine the above model are given comparing with the laboratory data or the numerical results of other researchers. An example simulating the inlet area shows the interesting velocity field which may be used as a pioneer to further study on the nearshore hydrodynamics and sedimentation.     

浅水环境下多次反射折射波条带范围的研究

浅水地震资料中,直达波上方会出现一个明显的“扫帚状”的条带,确定其地震波成份有利于对地震传播规律的认识,可为海上实际作业建立合适的观测系统提供参考依据,同时也可为后期资料处理提供理论依据。本文在陆地多次反射折射波传播路径分析的基础上,通过对简单模型的数值模拟结果分析,确定了浅水环境中位于直达波上方的“扫帚状”条带为海底表层介质产生的多次反射折射波的整体反映。定量分析了多次反射折射波的“扫帚状”条带的范围及其影响因素,并结合实际地震资料进行了验证。     

Wave reflection from vertical breakwater with porous structure

This paper presents numerical solutions for the wave reflection from submerged porous structures in front of the impermeable vertical breakwater. A new time-dependent mild-slope equation involves the parameters of the porous medium including the porosity, the friction factor and the inertia coefficient, etc. is derived for solving the boundary value problem. A comprehensive comparison between the present model and the existing analytical solution for the case of simple rectangular geometries of the submerged structure is performed first. Then, more complicated cases such as the inclined and trapezoidal submerged porous structures in front of the vertical breakwater with sloping bottom are considered. This study also examines the effects of the permeable properties and the geometric configurations of the porous structure to the wave reflection. It is found that the submerged porous structure with trapezoidal shape has more efficiency to reduce the wave reflection than that of triangular shape. The numerical results show that the minimum wave reflection is occurred when the breakwater is located at the intermediate water depth.     

A numerical model of coastline deformation for sandy beach at downstream of a jetty

A reformed numerical model based on the “one-line theory” for beach deformation is presented. In this model, the change of beach slope during coastline procession is considered.A wave numerical model combined with wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is used to simulate wave climate to increase numerical accuracy.The results show that the numerical model has a good precision based on the adequate field data. The results can be applied to practical engineering.     

减少航道外波浪集聚对策研究

进港航道开挖引起波能重新分布 ,导致航道外近区域波能聚集 ,波高增大 ,从而影响防波堤稳定及港内泊稳条件。文章介绍了 Boussinesq方程的推导过程和发展过程 ,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系 ,建立了波浪数学模型。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。并提出了减少波能聚集、降低堤前波高的多种措施。结合大窑湾港实际工程 ,经过多方面的数物模比选 ,利用数学模型优化出一种可行的喇叭口航道开挖方案并付诸实施 ,降低了防波堤的堤前波高 ,满足了预期的设计要求。     

砂质海岸突堤式建筑物下游岸线变形数学模型

提出了一种改进的砂质海岸岸滩演变的“一线理论”数学模型.该模型中考虑了岸滩演变过程中岸滩坡度变化的影响,并采用波浪折射、绕射和反射联合计算数学模型模拟掩护区的波浪场,提高了波浪计算的精度.实例计算表明,在验证资料比较充分的条件下,该数学模型计算结果的可靠度较高,可供实际工程规划和设计时参考使用.     

结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟.     

波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的耦合数学模型

建立了波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的耦合数学模型,波浪域的控制方程为雷诺时均方程和k-ε紊流模型。对于计算域的入射波采用推板式造波,它可以是线性波、椭圆余弦波和孤立波。采用PLIC-VOF法追踪波浪自由表面。对于多孔介质内的孔隙流场采用非线性Forchheimer方程,两区域共享连续方程,最后导出的波浪域与孔隙流域的压力修正方程具有完全相同的形式,利用这个方程能够同时而不是分别求解波浪场和孔隙流场,避免了在内部边界上给定匹配条件,实现了波浪场与孔隙流场的同步耦合。波浪与粗颗粒海床、平底床面上抛石潜堤及斜坡上抛石潜堤相互作用的验证计算结果表明该模型可用于研究波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的问题。     

An Extended Mild-Slope Equation

On the assumption that the vortex and the vertical velocity component of the current aresmall,a mild-slope equation for wave propagation on non-uniform flows is deduced from the basichydrodynamic equations,with the terms of (V_hh)~2 and (V_h~2)h included in the equation.The terms of bot-tom friction,wind energy input and wave nonlinearity are also introduced into the equation.The wind en-ergy input functions for wind waves and swells are separately considered by adopting Wen′s(1989)empiri-cal formula for wind waves and Snyder′s observation results for swells.Thus,an extended mild-slope equa-tion is obtained,in which the effects of refraction,diffraction,reflection,current,bottom friction,wind en-ergy input and wave nonlinearity are considered synthetically.