Wave field mapping with particle image velocimetry

A number of different methods for the 3D measurement of the water surface in wave fields have been proposed in the literature, based mostly on refraction, photogrammetry and/or reflected light intensity. Although these methods can map the distorted water surface, they appear to be difficult in practical applications in hydraulic engineering laboratories. A novel wave mapping technique using particle image velocimetry to measure surface flow velocities, and linear wave theory to determine wave heights from the measured velocities, has been developed and validated for regular waves. The method allows for the mapping even of complex wave fields with simple means and appears robust enough for application in the laboratory.     

Laboratory observation of boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in surf zone using particle image velocimetry

A boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in a laboratory surf zone with a smooth bottom is investigated using a high resolution particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. By cross-correlating the images, oscillatory velocity profiles within a viscous boundary layer of O(1) mm in thickness are resolved over ten points. Using PIV measurements taken for an earlier study and the present study, flow properties in the wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL) over the laboratory surf zone are obtained, including the mean velocities, turbulence intensity, Reynolds stresses, and intermittency of coherent events. The data are then used to estimate the boundary layer thickness, phase variation, and bottom shear stress. It is found that while the time averaged mass transport inside the WBBL is onshore in the outer surf zone, it changes to offshore in the inner surf zone. The zero Eulerian mass transport occurs at h/h_b ≈ 0.92 in the outer surf zone. The maximum overshoot of the streamwise velocity and boundary layer thickness are not constant across the surf zone. The bottom shear stress is mainly contributed by the viscous stress through mean velocity gradient while the Reynolds stress is small and negligible. The turbulence level is higher in the inner surf zone than that in the outer surf zone, although only a slight increase of turbulent intensity is observed inside the WBBL from the outer surf zone to the inner surf zone. The variation of phase inside and outside the WBBL was examined through the spatial velocity distribution. It is found the phase lead is not constant and its value is significantly smaller than previous thought. By analyzing instantaneous velocity and vorticity fields, a remarkable number of intermittent turbulent eddies are observed to penetrate into the WBBL in the inner surf zone. The size of the observed large eddies is about 0.11 to 0.16 times the local water depth. Its energy spectra follow the − 5/3 slope in the inertial subrange and decay exponentially in the dissipation subrange.     

A numerical study of swash flows generated by bores

The dynamic processes of bore propagation over a uniform slope are studied numerically using a 2-D Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) solver, coupled to a non-linear k − ε turbulence closure and a volume of fluid (VOF) method. The dam-break mechanism is used to generate bores in a constant depth region. Present numerical results for the ensemble-averaged flow field are compared with existing experimental data as well as theoretical and numerical results based on non-linear shallow water (NSW) equations. Reasonable agreement between the present numerical solutions and experimental data is observed. Using the numerical results, small-scale bore behaviors and flow features, such as the bore collapse process near the still-water shoreline, the ‘mini-collapse’ during the runup phase and the ‘back-wash bore’ in the down-rush phase, are described. In the case of a strong bore, the evolution of the averaged turbulence kinetic energy (TKE) over the swash zone consists of two phases: in the region near the still-water shoreline, the production and the dissipation of TKE are roughly in balance; in the region farther landwards of the still-water shoreline, the TKE decay rate is very close to that of homogeneous grid turbulence. On the other hand, in the case of a weak bore, the bore collapse generated turbulence is confined near the bottom boundary layer and the TKE decays at a much slower rate.     

Experimental investigation of the hydrodynamics in pockmarks using particle tracking velocimetry

Water tank experiments were performed in order to investigate the behaviour of currents in pockmarks. A particle-seeded flow was visualised and quantified with the aid of the particle tracking velocimetry technique. The employed analogue pockmark is a 1:100 idealised scale model of a natural pockmark, while the highest Reynolds number in the experiments was one order of magnitude smaller than in nature. Interaction of the flow with the pockmark geometry resulted in an upwelling current downstream of the pockmark centre, along with enhanced water turbulence in the depression. Scaling-up the experimental measurements, it is found that the upwelling would be capable of preventing the settling of particles as large as very fine sand. Furthermore, the increased turbulence would support the suspended fine material, which can thus be transported away before settling. The net effect for a variable-direction near-bed current over long periods of time would be to winnow the settling sediments and reduce the sedimentation rate in pockmarks. These mechanisms may be responsible for the observed lack of sediment infill and the typical presence of relatively coarser sediments inside pockmarks compared to the surrounding bed. In contrast, sediments transported as bedload are likely to be deposited in pockmarks because of the weakening of near-bed currents as well as lateral flow convergence associated with the upwelling. Bedload, however, may not be the dominant mode of sediment transport in areas covered by cohesive sediments, where pockmarks are found.     

Determination of suspended sediments particle size distribution using image capturing method

Suspended sediments deposition at estuary affects marine life in coastal ecosystem. Particle size distribution (PSD) is used to find settling velocity of suspended sediments. In this study, a new image capturing system for size analysis (ICS4S) method using digital camera-based image capturing technique for determining PSD is proposed and validated. Image of suspended sediments is acquired using a low-cost setup developed, and ImageJ software is used for image processing. The PSD results obtained using ICS4S method is well correlated with hydrometer test and the Shen method. The proposed ICS4S method is easy to understand and implement both in laboratory and field.     

Prediction of swash motion and run-up including the effects of swash interaction

Modifications to a model describing swash motion based on solutions to the non-linear shallow water equations were made to account for interaction between up-rush and back-wash at the still water shoreline and within the swash zone. Inputs to the model are wave heights and arrival times at the still water shoreline. The model was tested against wave groups representing idealized vessel-generated wave trains run in a small wave tank experiment. Accounting for swash interaction markedly improved results with respect to the maximum run-up length for cases with rather gentle foreshore slopes (tanβ=0.07). For the case with a steep foreshore slope (tanβ=0.20) there was very little improvement compared to model results if swash interaction was not accounted for. In addition, an equation was developed to predict the onset and degree of swash interaction including the effects of bed friction.     

Measurements of the time-varying free-surface profile across the swash zone obtained using an industrial LIDAR

The use of an industrial LIDAR instrument to measure time-varying water-surface elevations within the swash zone is investigated. The propagation of the swash lens across the beach face was measured simultaneously by a LIDAR instrument and a network of precision ultrasonic altimeters at a sandy beach. Comparison of the two datasets indicates that the time-varying swash free-surface profile obtained using a LIDAR compare favourably with point measurements obtained using ultrasonic altimeters. Significantly, the use of a continuously scanning laser beam enables a single LIDAR instrument to obtain measurements of free-surface elevation near-synchronously at several hundred points throughout the swash zone. This high spatial resolution permits small-scale flow features such as the swash-front gradient and the presence of secondary bores to be detailed, and negates the need for the deployment of a large, multi-sensor array.     

基于图像测速的波浪破碎两相速度场测量方案探讨

针对波浪破碎试验中气泡区速度与水体速度无法同时测量的难题,基于实验室条件,搭建了粒子图像测速（PIV）和气泡图像测速（BIV）系统,采用声学多普勒测速仪（ADV）对PIV测量精度和不同场景下BIV测量精度进行了细致的验证,并设计多种试验方案以期实现BIV与PIV的同步耦合测量。试验结果表明,7W激光+后置灯的优化照明方案,其耦合测量的气泡区速度代表参数与标准BIV照明方案的结果误差小于5%,且耦合测量的气泡区下方水质点的速度曲线与标准PIV测量结果吻合,表明该改进方案满足PIV与BIV耦合测量的条件。本文实现的PIV与BIV耦合测量有利于优化测量和分析工作,减小破碎波浪重复生成的影响,有利于提高测量精度,为大范围波浪破碎速度场的快速测量提供了新的方案。     

Empirical parameterization of setup,swash, and runup

Using shoreline water-level time series collected during 10 dynamically diverse field experiments, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions. Runup, the height of discrete water-level maxima, depends on two dynamically different processes; time-averaged wave setup and total swash excursion, each of which is parameterized separately. Setup at the shoreline was best parameterized using a dimensional form of the more common Iribarren-based setup expression that includes foreshore beach slope, offshore wave height, and deep-water wavelength. Significant swash can be decomposed into the incident and infragravity frequency bands. Incident swash is also best parameterized using a dimensional form of the Iribarren-based expression. Infragravity swash is best modeled dimensionally using offshore wave height and wavelength and shows no statistically significant linear dependence on either foreshore or surf-zone slope. On infragravity-dominated dissipative beaches, the magnitudes of both setup and swash, modeling both incident and infragravity frequency components together, are dependent only on offshore wave height and wavelength. Statistics of predicted runup averaged over all sites indicate a − 17 cm bias and an rms error of 38 cm: the mean observed runup elevation for all experiments was 144 cm. On intermediate and reflective beaches with complex foreshore topography, the use of an alongshore-averaged beach slope in practical applications of the runup parameterization may result in a relative runup error equal to 51% of the fractional variability between the measured and the averaged slope.     

Measurement of wave-by-wave bed-levels in the swash zone

A technique is described to observe and quantify wave-by-wave bed-level changes in the swash zone. The ultrasonic instrument system is non-contact with the beach face surface being measured and the sensors remain outside of the fluid flows causing sediment movement. Sensor resolution combined with the electronic noise inherent within a digital network data-logging system results in a (conservative) measurement accuracy of ± 1 mm, equating to a couple of sand grain diameters in height. Illustrative field results demonstrate the practical use of the instrumentation, and a simple data pre-processing method to separate swashes and intervening bed-level ‘events’ is discussed. These example data reveal rather complex fluctuations of the bed observed over time periods of minutes to hours. Rather strikingly, gross bed-level changes per wave are revealed to be up to many orders of magnitude larger than the observed net rate of beach face evolution. It is outlined how observations of successive bed-level changes at multiple locations within a dense grid, combined with a consideration of sediment continuity, will now enable the total net sediment transported per uprush–backwash to be quantified.     

Numerical experiments of swash oscillations on steep and gentle beaches

A weakly non-linear Boussinesq model with a slot-type shoreline boundary is used to simulate swash oscillations on beaches. Numerical simulations of swash were compared with laboratory measurements and in general good agreement found (less than 15% root-mean-square error of surface elevation except in regular waves). A series of numerical experiments on shoreline movement were then performed for a range of beach slopes and incident wave conditions. The resulting swash characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and spectral properties. On steep slopes, both individual bores and infragravity waves are equally significant in driving the swash while infragravity waves alone drive them on mild slopes. Swash excursions on any given slope are found to be highest when individual bores from a partially saturated surf zone ride on top of low-frequency waves. This is confirmed by the relationship found between swash excursion and wave groupiness in the surf zone. Swash excursions increase with increasing incident wave energy, even in fully saturated surf zones. However, a poor correlation is found between swash excursion and the surf similarity parameter due to the involvement of infragravity wave energy in the swash.     

The influence of seaward boundary conditions on swash zone hydrodynamics

The influence of the seaward boundary condition on the internal swash hydrodynamics is investigated. New numerical solutions of the characteristics form of the nonlinear shallow-water equations are presented and applied to describe the swash hydrodynamics forced by breaking wave run-up on a plane beach. The solutions depend on the specification of characteristic variables on the seaward boundary of the swash zone, equivalent to prescribing the flow depth or the flow velocity. It is shown that the analytical solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. J. Fluid Mech. 16, 113–125] is a special case of the many possible solutions that can describe the swash flow, but one that does not appear appropriate for practical application for real waves. The physical significance of the boundary conditions is shown by writing the volume and momentum fluxes in terms of the characteristic variables. Results are presented that illustrate the dependence of internal flow depth and velocity on the boundary condition. This implies that the internal swash hydrodynamics depend on the shape and wavelength of the incident bore, which differs from the hydrodynamic similarity inherent in the analytical solution. A solution appropriate for long bores is compared to laboratory data to illustrate the difference from the analytical solution. The results are important in terms of determining overwash flows, flow forces and sediment dynamics in the run-up zone.     

Laboratory and numerical study of dambreak-generated swash on impermeable slopes

New laboratory experiments have produced detailed measurements of hydrodynamics within swash generated by bore collapse on a steep beach. The experiments are based on a dambreak rig producing a highly repeatable, large-scale swash event, enabling detailed measurements of depths and velocities at a number of locations across the swash zone. Experiments were conducted on two beaches, differentiated by roughness. Results are presented for uprush shoreline motion, flow depths, depth-averaged velocity, velocity profiles and turbulence intensity. Estimates of the time- and spatially-varying bed shear stress are obtained via log-law fitting to the velocity profiles and are compared with the shear plate measurements of Barnes et al. (2009) for similar experimental conditions. Experimental results are compared with model predictions based on a NLSWE model with momentum loss parameterised using the simple quadratic stress law in terms of the depth-averaged velocity. Predicted and measured flow depths and depth-averaged velocities agree reasonably well for much of the swash period, but agreement is not good at the time of bore arrival and towards the end of the backwash. The parameterisation of total momentum loss via the quadratic stress law cannot adequately model the swash bed shear stress at these critical times.     

Simulation and prediction of swash oscillations on a steep beach

This paper presents numerical simulations and analytical predictions of key aspects of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Simulations of the shoreline displacement based on bore run-up theory are found to give excellent agreement with recent experimental data for regular waves, wave groups and random waves. The theory is used to derive parameters that predict the onset of swash saturation and the spectral characteristics of the saturated shoreline motion. These parameters are again in good agreement with the measured laboratory data and are also consistent with previous experimental data. Simulation of irregular wave run-up using a series of overlapping monochromatic swash events is found to reproduce typical features of swash oscillations and can accurately describe both the low and high frequency spectral characteristics of the swash zone. In particular, the low frequency components of the run-up can be modelled directly using a sequence of incident short wave bores, with no direct long wave input to the numerical simulations. This suggests that wave groupiness must be accounted for when modelling shoreline oscillations.     

Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones

Under the action of marine currents, non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load, by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry. Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment...     

Suspended sediment transport in the swash zone of a dissipative beach

Simultaneous high frequency field measurements of water depth, flow velocity and suspended sediment concentration were made at three fixed locations across the high tide swash and inner surf zones of a dissipative beach. The dominant period of the swash motion was 30–50 s and the results are representative of infragravity swash motion. Suspended sediment concentrations, loads and transport rates in the swash zone were almost one order of magnitude greater than in the inner surf zone. The vertical velocity gradient near the bed and the resulting bed shear stress at the start of the uprush was significantly larger than that at the end of the backwash, despite similar flow velocities. This suggests that the bed friction during the uprush was approximately twice that during the backwash.The suspended sediment profile in the swash zone can be described reasonably well by an exponential shape with a mixing length scale of 0.02–0.03 m. The suspended sediment transport flux measured in the swash zone was related to the bed shear stress through the Shields parameter. If the bed shear stress is derived from the vertical velocity gradient, the proportionality coefficient between shear stress and sediment transport rate is similar for the uprush and the backwash. If the bed shear stress is estimated using the free-stream flow velocity and a constant friction factor, the proportionality factor for the uprush is approximately twice that of the backwash. It is suggested that the uprush is a more efficient transporter of sediment than the backwash, because the larger friction factor during the uprush causes larger bed shear stresses for a given free-stream velocity. This increased transport competency of the uprush is necessary for maintaining the beach, otherwise the comparable strength and greater duration of the backwash would progressively remove sediment from the beach.     

液气共存的耗散粒子动力学模拟

传统的耗散粒子动力学方法(DPD)由于采用了纯排斥的守恒力相互作用,从而不能适应液气共存或者带有自由面流体的模拟.这里研究了DPD方法中新近提出的一种短程排斥、长程吸引相互作用,探索了这种改进势能对于DPD方法模拟液气共存的能力.模拟了这种新势能所形成的液气过渡界面,计算了过渡界面区的应力分布,发现应力分布与多体DPD方法所得结果一致.进一步对表面张力进行了研究,验证了这种势能所形成的界面满足Laplace定律,而通过理论公式与Laplace定律分别所得到的表面张力也彼此相符.     

The motion of cobbles in the swash zone on an impermeable slope

The purpose of this communication is to present the results of a series of laboratory experiments aimed at better understanding the dynamics of the motion of large bottom particles (cobbles) in a swash zone. In this region, a thin sheet of water that results from the collapse of a turbulent bore, runs up the beach and can induce the transport of relatively large solid objects in the on-shore direction. The aims of the study were to: (i) mimic this process in laboratory experiments and identify the associated physical processes involved; and (ii) to develop a suitable theoretical model to describe the motion of cobbles. The experiments employed a solid impermeable bottom and were conducted in a long tank of rectangular cross-section. An impulsive hydraulic bore, produced by a dam-break mechanism at one end of the tank, was used to simulate the water motion in the swash zone. Solid objects of simple discoid shape were used to model the cobbles. The results of the laboratory observations were compared with model predictions. In the range of external parameters used for the experiments (size and density of cobbles, propagation velocity and height of the water front, slope and friction at the bottom), a reasonable agreement between the measured and calculated values of the cobble displacement as a function of time was obtained.     

In-situ estimates of net sediment flux per swash: Reply to discussion by TE Baldock of “Measurement of wave-by-wave bed-levels in the swash zone”

This paper replies to TE Baldock's discussion [Coastal Eng. 56 (2009) 380–381] of ‘Measurement of wave-by-wave bed-levels in the swash zone’ by Turner et al. [Coastal Eng. 55 (2008) 1237–1242]. We address and extend the comparison and discussion of ultrasonic bed-level sensors and buried pressure transducers to obtain estimates of the beach face elevation within the swash zone. We demonstrate the use of the former method to obtain many and continuous (every time the beach face is exposed) in-situ estimates of net sediment flux per swash.