The influence of Stokes drift on oil spills: Sanchi oil spill case

Spilled oil floats and travels across the water’s surface under the influence of wind, currents, and wave action. Wave-induced Stokes drift is an important physical process that can affect surface water particles but that is currently absent from oil spill analyses. In this study, two methods are applied to determine the velocity of Stokes drift, the first calculates velocity from the wind-related formula based upon a one-dimensional frequency spectrum, while the second determines velocity directly from the wave model that was based on a two-dimensional spectrum. The experimental results of numerous models indicated that: (1) oil simulations that include the influence of Stokes drift are more accurate than that those do not; (2) for medium and long-term simulations longer than two days or more, Stokes drift is a significant factor that should not be ignored, and its magnitude can reach about 2% of the wind speed; (3) the velocity of Stokes drift is related to the wind but is not linear. Therefore, Stokes drift cannot simply be replaced or substituted by simply increasing the wind drift factor, which can cause errors in oil spill projections; (4) the Stokes drift velocity obtained from the two-dimensional wave spectrum makes the oil spill simulation more accurate.     

A locally nonlinear interpretation of PUV measurements

A time domain method is presented for analyzing simultaneous measurements of pressure and the horizontal components of velocity obtained beneath irregular multidirectional wave fields. This new method differs from the usual linear directional analyses applied to PUV data in two important aspects. First, the essential nonlinearity of the measured waves is not sacrificed to achieve a solution. Therefore, predictions of sea surface elevation and directional kinematics throughout the water column accurately portray the actual nonlinear character of the waves. Second, the analysis method is `local' in that it can be applied to segments of PUV time series much shorter than an individual wave. The viability of the locally nonlinear methodology developed in this paper is proven by demonstrating agreement with higher-order theoretical steady waves. Predictions of sea surface elevation and wave kinematics are also made using actual measurements from PUV instruments at two ocean sites off the west coast of the United States.     

Mass transport in a two-layer wave boundary layer

The transport of a chemical species under the pure action of surface progressive waves in the benthic boundary layer which is loaded with dense suspended sediments is studied theoretically. The flow structure of the boundary layer is approximated by that of a two-layer Stokes boundary layer with a sharp interface between clear water and a heavy fluid. The simplest model of constant eddy diffusivities is adopted and the exchange of matter with the bed is ignored. For a thin layer of heavy fluid, whose thickness is comparable to the surface wave amplitude and the Stokes boundary layer thickness, effective transport equations are deduced using an averaging technique based on the method of homogenization. The effective advection velocity is found to be equal to the depth-averaged mass transport velocity, while the dispersion coefficient can be shown to be positive definite. Explicit expressions for the transport coefficients are obtained as functions of fluid properties and flow kinematics. Physical discussions on their relations are also presented.     

论狭窄潮汐水道中sigma坐标下的余流

在受波动影响的近岸浅水区域,运用sigma坐标是计算平均水位附近的余流的有效途径。本项研究在理论上分析了在狭窄潮汐水道中sigma坐标下的余流的物理意义,并运用一系列的理想化数值模型对分析结果进行了验证。对于浅水波,sigma层和水体中的波动面相一致,因而斯托克斯速度及其分量可以用sigma坐标上的速度来表达。一个sigma层上的余流（即sigma余流）是位于这一sigma层平均深度上的欧拉余流和斯托克斯速度垂向分量的和,可以被看做是半拉格朗日余流。因为斯托克斯速度的垂向分量比其水平分量小一个量级,sigma余流可看做为欧拉余流的近似。在sigma层上的物质输运余流是sigma余流和斯托克斯速度水平分量的和,在大小和方向上和拉格朗日余流近似。     

层化海洋中二阶多色波对可渗透结构的绕射问题

可渗透结构具有使波浪作用减弱的效应,而海水的层化及水波的非线性使结构的波绕射产生多层复杂机制。将可渗透结构应用于复杂海况条件中,海水的层化性、波浪的非线性及结构的透空性构成了波绕射的一个十分复杂的数学问题。该问题存在理论研究的必要性,而文章则着重探讨其数学分析的可能性。通过引入二层海的层化海模式及Stokes二阶波的非线性波模式,给出了二阶多色波对透空结构的波绕射的定解问题提法,提出了复合形式的二阶多色波辐射条件式及可渗透结构的二阶物面条件式,应用特征函数解法与积分法推导了多色波对结构绕射的一阶势解与二阶作用的耦合积分解式,并讨论了解式所涉及无穷积分的算法。     

高频表面波对定常Ekman流解的影响

基于Jenkins(1989)建立的包含Stokes漂流、风输入和波耗散影响的修正Ekman模型,采用Paskyabi等(2012)使用的推广的Donelan等(1987)中的谱和波耗散函数,并利用Paskyabi等(2012)中修正方法给出的包含高频波的风输入函数,在粘性不依赖于水深及粘性随深度线性变化的条件下,研究了包含高频毛细重力波的随机表面波对Stokes漂流和Song(2009)导出的波浪修正定常Ekman流解的影响。结果表明高频表面波使Stokes漂流在海表面剪切加强,对定常Ekamn流解的影响通常不能忽略,但对Ekman流场的角度偏转影响很小。最后,将考虑高频表面波尾谱影响所估算的定常Ekman流解与已有观测结果以及经典Ekman解进行了比对分析。     

Irrotational,progressive surface gravity waves near the limiting height

Numerical solutions of irrotational, progressive surface gravity waves in water of a constant depth are obtained by means of an iterative method. Our results suggest that waves with the surface slope angle greater than/6 may exist. The calculated phase velocity of deep water waves near the wave steepness 0.14 is significantly smaller than the value given by the Stokes' fourth approximation.In order to check our method, we apply it to the problem proposed byDavies (1951), which is hypothetical but similar to the present problem, and for which the exact solution is known. In this case our results show good agreement with the exact solution.     

Applicability of numerical models to nonlinear dispersive waves

The applicability of three different wave-propagation models in nonlinear dispersive wave fields has been investigated. The numerical models tested here are based on three different wave theories: a fully nonlinear potential theory, a Stokes second-order theory, and a Boussinesq-type theory with an improved dispersion relation. Physical experiments and computations were conducted for wave evolutions during passage over a submerged shelf under various wave conditions. As expected, the fully nonlinear solutions agree better with the measurements than do the other solutions. Although the second-order solution has sufficient accuracy for smaller-amplitude wave cases, the truncation after the third harmonics causes significant discrepancies in wave form for larger waves. In addition, the second-order model markedly overestimates the first- and second-harmonic amplitudes in transmitted waves. The Boussinesq model provides excellent predictions of wave profile over the shelf even in larger wave cases. However, this model also overestimates the magnitudes of several higher harmonics in transmitted waves. These facts may indicate that energy transfer from bound components into free waves in these higher harmonics cannot be accurately evaluated by the Boussinesq-type equations.     

Application of hermite polynomial to wave and wave force statistics

This paper discusses the use of Hermite polynomial in the derivation of statistical properties of waves, wave field kinematics and dynamics and wave forces under various conditions. Specifically, covariance functions and approximate spectra are obtained for (1) wave force on vertical cylinder according to Morison's formula, (2) horizontal fluid particle velocity considering the effects of free surface fluctuations, and (3) elevation of breaking waves.     

An extension of the Airy theory for linear waves into shallow water

As a fully developed (Airy) wave propagates from deep into shallow water, its crest becomes more peaked while the trough flattens out. The median crest diameter MCD, defined as the distance between the wave flanks under the crest at a level halfway between the crest and trough, therefore decreases relative to the similarly defined median trough diameter MTD, which remains constant up to the breaking point. The MCD is directly related to other wave characteristics, which enables water particle velocities to be calculated for any water depth without having to recur to more complex, higher-order Stokes, cnoidal or Fenton theories. Over a nearly horizontal bottom, most fully developed wave characteristics can be expressed as functions of the wave period T_w. It is shown that the horizontal particle velocity at the bottom under the breaker crest is at least 9 times faster than under the breaker trough, which explains why sediment is transported landward under fair weather conditions. The proposed equations also shed new light on the formation of spilling, plunging and surging/collapsing breakers.     

Simplified Method and Improved Solution for Deriving Fifth Order Stokes Wave

As the solution of the two equations for determining the existing fifth order Stokes wave de-rived by Skjelbreia is complex and tedious,the two equations are simplified into one equation for deter-mining d/L,i.e.,f(H,T,d/L)=0.According to this simplified method,three cases of the solution forthe Skjelbreia equations have been found:one accurate solution;more than one accurate solution and noaccurate solution(but there exists the optimum approximate solution in the area of satisfying Skjelbreiaequations).As to the case of more than one accurate solution,the reasonable solution can be judged fromthe method of variational principle,by means of which an optimum solution improved from the solutionof Skjelbreia equations in the area of satisfying the original mathematical equations of non-vortex andnonlinear wave theory,i.e.,the optimum fifth order Stokes wave,is given.     

Calculation of the added mass of circular cylinders in shallow water

The added mass of hull section shapes must be known, in order to carry out any studies of ship motions, which may be associated with either seakeeping or manoeuvring. Determination of the added mass in deep water can involve conformal mapping or surface singularity distributions. However, in shallow water the problem of determining the added mass is made more difficult by the proximity of the seabed. In this paper, three approaches to the problem of finding the added mass of semi-circular sections are explored. Although there is no known exact solution to this problem, the relationships given by the three methods are compared and the approximate nature of the solutions is examined. The first method is a series solution, which is taken here to include more terms than are normally given in the existing literature. The other two solutions are considered to be new, and so are given in some mathematical detail.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary layers

The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.     

Comparison of experimental irregular water wave elevation and kinematic data with new hybrid wave model predictions

Surface water wave elevations and kinematics from four unidirectional irregular wave trains, with a Pierson and Moskowitz or JONSWAP random wave spectrum, were measured in the laboratory using resistance wave probes and a laser Doppler anemometer. The wave elevation data, velocity time series, extreme (largest) wave horizontal velocity profiles and extreme wave acceleration fields are compared with the predictions of a new wave kinematics model, named the hybrid wave model. Irregular waves are commonly viewed as the summation of many linear wave components of different frequencies, but more accurate predictions of downstream surface elevations (wave evolution) and wave kinematics are attained by considering the non-linear interactions among wave components. The hybrid wave model incorporates these non-linear wave component interactions, and its wave evolution predictions and kinematics estimates are compared with laboratory measurements in this study. Linear random wave theory, Wheeler stretching and linear extrapolation wave kinematic prediction techniques are also compared. Comparisons between measurements and hybrid wave model estimates demonstrate its improved capability to predict velocity and acceleration fields and wave evolution in two-dimensional irregular waves.     

Irregular wave kinematics from a kinematic boundary condition fit (KBCF)

Calculation of the kinematics of random waves above the mean water line presents great difficulties. The kinematic boundary condition fit (KBCF) method approximates the solution through the numerical calculation of a potential function which fits the kinematic boundary condition on a specified surface. Comparisons with a high order regular wave show that the method converges to the true solution when the surface is accurately specified. Tests of the method for irregular waves were made with measurements from a laser-Doppler current meter in the Delft wave tank. These tests showed good agreement between theory and measurement when the surface evolution was calculated correct to second order. Stretched linear theory was also compared to the measurements. The stretched velocities were reasonably good when the phases of the component wavelets were measured but somewhat low when the phases were selected from a uniform distribution.     

A new approximate analytic solution for water wave scattering by a submerged horizontal porous disk

This study gives a new approximate analytic solution for water wave scattering by a submerged horizontal porous disk in the context of the linear potential theory. The solution is based on the domain decomposition method. The velocity potentials are determined by two different approaches. One approach is to adopt decompositions for velocity potentials, and the other is to expand the vertical derivative of the velocity potential on the porous disk along the radial direction. Hence the velocity potentials are determined by the matched eigenfunction expansions. Differing from previous solutions with respect to the porous disk, the present solution needs no complex dispersion relations. Thus the new solution is easier for numerical implementation. According to numerical examples, the convergence of the present solution is satisfactory. In addition, the present predictions of the wave surface elevation and the vertical wave force on the disk agree very well with previous results by different approaches. The present solution can also be extended to other structures involving disks, such as a fish cage, a porous disk with finite thickness, and a submerged elastic disk.     

重力式网箱数值模拟时波浪理论选择

针对重力式网箱数值模拟中波浪理论选择问题进行了专门的分析与讨论。在数值模型中分别采用线性波浪理论和斯托克斯五阶波浪理论,对重力式网箱的主要部件浮架系统和网衣系统进行模拟。通过将模拟结果与试验结果比较分析选取两种不同波浪理论对模拟结果的影响。分析结果认为在相对水深大于0.18情况下,应用线性波浪理论基本可以准确地模拟重力式网箱波浪作用下的运动和受力。     

Explicit wave-averaged primitive equations using a generalized Lagrangian mean

The generalized Langrangian mean theory provides exact equations for general wave–turbulence–mean flow interactions in three dimensions. For practical applications, these equations must be closed by specifying the wave forcing terms. Here an approximate closure is obtained under the hypotheses of small surface slope, weak horizontal gradients of the water depth and mean current, and weak curvature of the mean current profile. These assumptions yield analytical expressions for the mean momentum and pressure forcing terms that can be expressed in terms of the wave spectrum. A vertical change of coordinate is then applied to obtain glm2z-RANS equations with non-divergent mass transport in cartesian coordinates. To lowest order, agreement is found with Eulerian mean theories, and the present approximation provides an explicit extension of known wave-averaged equations to short-scale variations of the wave field, and vertically varying currents only limited to weak or localized profile curvatures. Further, the underlying exact equations provide a natural framework for extensions to finite wave amplitudes and any realistic situation. The accuracy of the approximations is discussed using comparisons with exact numerical solutions for linear waves over arbitrary bottom slopes, for which the equations are still exact when properly accounting for partial standing waves. For finite amplitude waves it is found that the approximate solutions are probably accurate for ocean mixed layer modelling and shoaling waves, provided that an adequate turbulent closure is designed. However, for surf zone applications the approximations are expected to give only qualitative results due to the large influence of wave nonlinearity on the vertical profiles of wave forcing terms.     

Finite element analysis of two-dimensional non-linear transient water waves

The two-dimensional nonlinear time domain free surface flow problem is analyzed by the finite element method. Two approaches are used. One is based on the velocity potential which is approximated by means of shape functions. The solution is obtained through use of a variational statement, and the velocity is obtained subsequently by the Galerkin method. The other approach is to write both potential and velocity in terms of the shape functions at the same time. Their solutions are derived from the same equation by using another variational statement. Numerical results are given for the vertical wave maker problem and for a transient wave in a rectangular container. They are compared with analytical solutions, and very good agreement is found.