Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

Seasonal persistence of a small southern California beach fill

Torrey Pines State Beach, a site with large seasonal fluctuations in sand level, received a small shoreface beach fill (about 160,000 m³) in April 2001. The 600 m-long, flat-topped nourishment pad extended from a highway riprap revetment seaward about 60 m, terminating in a 2 m-tall vertical scarp. A 2.7 km alongshore span, centered on the nourishment region, was monitored prior to the nourishment and biweekly to monthly for the following 2 years. For the first 7 months after the nourishment, through fall 2001, significant wave heights were small, and the elevated beach fill remained in place, with little change near and above Mean Sea Level (MSL). In contrast, the shoreline accreted on nearby control beaches following a seasonal pattern common in southern California, reducing the elevation difference between the nourished and adjacent beaches. During the first winter storm (3 m significant wave height), the shoreline retreated rapidly over the entire 2.7 km survey reach, forming an alongshore-oriented sandbar in 3 to 4 m water depth [Seymour, R.J., Guza, R.T., O'Reilly, W., Elgar, S., 2004. Rapid erosion of a Southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering 52 (2), 151–158.]. We show that the winter sandbar, most pronounced offshore of the nourishment, moved back onto the beach face during summer 2002 (following the usual seasonal pattern) and formed a wider beach above MSL at the site of the original nourishment than on the control beaches. Thus, the April 2001 shoreline nourishment was detectable until late fall 2002, persisting locally over a full seasonal cycle. In an extended 7-year time series, total sand volumes (summed between the back beach and 8 m water depth, over the entire 2.7 km reach) exhibit multi-year fluctuations of unknown origin that are twice as large as the nourishment volume.     

Evaluation of the physical process controlling beach changes adjacent to nearshore dredge pits

Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion.     

Macrofaunal sediment selectivity considerations for beach nourishment programmes

Nowadays, beach nourishment is widely considered as a better alternative compared to the construction of hard structures to protect a sandy coast against detrimental erosive effects, both from an ecological and an engineering perspective. The rare studies conducted on the ecological impact of beach nourishment are short-term, post hoc monitoring investigations of the benthic macrofauna. Little is known of the biological processes during and after nourishment. To allow swift recolonization after nourishment, the characteristics of the nourished beach have to match the habitat demands of the benthic macrofauna. The sediment preference of the key intertidal species Scolelepis squamata, Eurydice pulchra, Bathyporeia pilosa and Bathyporeia sarsi, which dominate many West European sandy beaches, was investigated through laboratory experiments, both in single-species as well as combined-species treatments. While the former aimed at developing guidelines for impact mitigation of beach nourishment, the latter aimed at elucidating the role of biotic interactions in sediment preference. Results of the experiments indicated that B. pilosa and E. pulchra prefer the finest sediment, while B. sarsi had a broader preference and also occurred in medium-coarse sediments. However, the sediment preference of E. pulchra for fine sediments was not confirmed by other field and experimental studies. The polychaete S. squamata had the broadest preference and even showed a high occurrence in coarse sediments that are not naturally occurring on the sandy beaches where the animals were caught for this experiment. However, this polychaete is a cosmopolitan species, not only occurring on fine-grained beaches, but also on coarse-grained beaches worldwide. The preferences imply that beach nourishment with coarse sediment will have a major effect on B. pilosa while effects of coarse sediments on S. squamata will be minor. Finally, interspecific competition with the sympatrically occurring amphipod B. sarsi was found to change the sediment selection of the amphipod B. pilosa towards the coarser sediments where B. sarsi occurred in lower frequencies.     

Structure and distribution of the benthic macrofauna on a Northwest African sandy beach close to a freshwater river discharge

The effects of the freshwater discharge of the Oued Sebou River on the macroinfauna, was studied on the sandy beach of Mehdia through the analysis of the abiotic parameters and of the macrozoobenthos. In autumn 2002 and spring 2003, three beach sites, each with two transects, localized at 50, 3500 and 5720 m from the river mouth respectively, were studied. Positive correlations were recorded for beach slope and pH whereas negative ones were obtained for organic matter content and salinity at increasing distances from the river mouth. Significant differences between beach sites and seasons occurred for median grain size, organic matter content and pH. For each beach site, mean macroinfauna abundance varied between 30 and 100 ind.·m⁻² and in spring there was a significant correlation between this parameter and the increasing distance from the river mouth. No significant correlation was instead found between species richness and the increasing distance, although the farthest beach site from the mouth had the highest number of species during both seasons. The results indicated the importance of organic matter content and salinity for the macrofaunal abundance whereas the diversity indices were more affected by beach slope and grain size. The results showed that there was no clear spatial trend in compound indices of the macrofauna across the sampled sites and the influence of the river discharge of Sebou River did not seem to be significant and consistent on the macrobenthos of this mesotidal shore. Comparison with microtidal shores revealed the influence of the tidal excursion and swell characteristics on the response of the benthic structures of sandy beaches to discharges of freshwater.     

Monitoring and comparison to predictive models of the Perdido Key beach nourishment project, Florida, USA

This paper summarizes the results of over 8 years of data describing the performance of a large beach nourishment project on Perdido Key, immediately adjacent to Pensacola Pass in Escambia County, FL, USA. As a result of a major excavation of the entrance channel to Pensacola Bay, over 7 million m³ of beach-quality sand were placed along the easternmost 7.5 km of Perdido Key, adjoining the entrance channel at Pensacola Pass. The project included the placement of 4.1 million m³ of sand directly upon the shoreline in 1989–1990, followed by the placement of an additional 3 million m³ as an underwater berm just offshore of the beach nourishment project in water depths of roughly 6 m. Monitoring of the performance of the beach nourishment project and the offshore berm has been conducted since 1989, beginning with a pre-construction survey of the project area. Monitoring surveys have been conducted on an annual or biennial basis since that time, with the most recent survey occurring in July/August, 1998. Over 8 years of monitoring data indicate that the beach nourishment project has retained approximately 56% of the original volume placed within the 7.5-km project length. In addition, according to the latest monitoring survey, the dry beach width of the project, initially constructed as 135 m on average, is still 53 m wider than pre-project conditions. Approximately 41% of the originally placed dry planform area remains as of July 1998. The most recent monitoring surveys in 1995, 1997, and 1998 encompass the effects of two major storm systems, Hurricanes Erin (August 1995) and Opal (October 1995). Monitoring of the offshore berm area indicates only a slight landward migration of the berm, accompanied by a minor decrease in volume, over the entire monitoring period. The performance of both the beach nourishment project and the offshore berm appear to be significantly related to the two storm events, particularly Hurricane Opal, and the proximity of the project to the tidal entrance at Pensacola Pass. Comparison of the documented performance of the beach nourishment project to simple existing analytical models of beach-fill evolution have yielded encouraging results in terms of preliminary design aids for future beach nourishment projects in the vicinity of deep tidal entrances.     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙作用研究进展

海滩养护已经成为全球基于自然(nature-based)海岸防护的主要手段,并得到广泛应用。随着全球强风区海岸海滩养护工程数量的增加,海滩养护对海岸风沙过程产生的一系列影响逐渐得到重视。海滩养护工程形成了新的海滩地貌形态,扩大了海滩风区、增加了风沙物源、提高了滩面高程、改变了滩面沉积物,海滩地貌和沉积物组分变化引起了风沙运动过程的变化,与自然海滩风沙过程相比,有其独特的过程和特征,已经成为海岸风沙研究的热点之一。本文从海滩养护影响下的风沙环境变化、风沙活动变化以及养护海滩对沙丘的影响等3个方面梳理了国内外研究进展,提出养护海滩风沙研究存在区域不平衡以及风沙过程的综合性影响和定量化研究不足等问题,并结合我国海滩养护未来的发展趋势,从强风区养护海滩风沙运动规律、养护海滩风沙环境全要素的综合影响和风沙作用变化的模型评估等方面展望了我国养护海滩风沙研究的未来发展方向。     

Rapid erosion of a small southern California beach fill

A winter storm eroded a small (160,000 m³) beach fill at Torrey Pines State Beach in southern California. The fill, constructed in April 2001, was a 600-m long flat-topped berm, extending from a highway revetment seaward about 80 m, terminating in a 2-m tall, near-vertical scarp. The size distributions of the preexisting and fill beach sand were similar (median ∼0.2 mm). A total of 56 cross-shore transects were surveyed between the revetment and 8 m water depth biweekly along 2.7 km of the beach centered on the fill area. During summer and fall, the incident significant wave heights measured 1 km offshore of the fill usually were below 1 m, the scarp was not overtopped, and the fill did not change greatly. The beach face alongshore of the fill accreted, consistent with the usual seasonal cycle in southern California. During a storm (3 m significant wave height) in late November, erosion began when wave uprushes overtopped the scarp and reached the relatively flat elevated fill, where the overwash flowed alongshore to initially small depressions that channeled the flow seawards. The offshore flow rapidly deepened and widened the channels, which maintained steep vertical faces and eroded by slumping. Thirty hours after the storm began, the shoreward end of the eroded channels had retreated to the highway revetment, leaving uneroded sand peninsulas protruding seawards ∼50 m from the revetment and elevated ∼1.75 m above the surrounding beach. Erosion of the beach adjacent to the fill was much less variable alongshore than within the fill region. During the next few days, the peninsulas eroded almost completely.     

Multigrain sedimentation/erosion model based on cross-shore equilibrium sediment distribution: Application to nourishment design

In the light of global warming and sea level rise there are many coastal beaches that suffer from erosion. Beach nourishment has become a common practice to maintain the sediment balance on a shore-face. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical model for evaluating long-term impact of beach nourishment projects has been developed. The model addresses the longstanding complex issue of coastal morphology and sediment grain size distribution from an unconventional angle, which exploits the strong links between grain size distribution and the prevailing transport direction of each sediment constituent under ‘average’ wave and storm action. The present model predicts the redistribution of nourished sediment according to the subtle clues implied by equilibrium distribution curves and latest coastal wave transformation theories. After verification against recent field observations in Terschelling, The Netherlands, the model was used to predict long-term effects of different beach nourishment strategies. It was found that: (a) given the source sediment available in Terschelling the tactics of large volume and less frequent implementation are better than otherwise; and (b) from a pure engineering point of view, waterline nourishment outperforms offshore trough nourishment.The model offers an additional tool for coastal engineers to evaluate the feasibility, effectiveness and the optimization of dumping locations for beach nourishment projects. It is also a useful tool for stratigraphic modelling of shallow-marine sedimentation in conjunction with sea level changes.     

The effects of sediment characteristics and wave height on shape-parameter for representing equilibrium beach profiles

The shape parameter helps determining the shape of equilibrium beach profile in terms of offshore distance and water depth. The shape parameter therefore, should represent the effect of all the environmental factors involved in beach profile formation, such as wave climate and sediment properties. However, all the previous studies carried out to define shape parameter only consider the effects of sediment characteristics in their definitions. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate also in the definition of shape parameter. This is achieved by integrating wave energy dissipation rate per unit volume at the surf zone. The result yields equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate that leads to theoretical definition of equilibrium beach profiles involving the effects of both the grain size and the wave climate parameters. It is found that the sediment grain size and the incoming wave height affect the value of shape parameter; whereas, the effects of wave period can be neglected. By means of energy equation, it is also possible to observe in macro scale the strength of wave energy on beach profile for different grain sizes. The findings also bring about the possibility of defining shape parameter such that any two arbitrary beach profiles owning the same sediment grain sizes can have the opportunity to have different beach profile formations. Finally, by adding the effect of wave height in the definition of shape parameter the graphical representation of the parameter, previously given by Moore (1982) is improved herein.     

不同补沙方案对海滩剖面影响的数值模拟对比分析

大量工程实践表明,海滩养护是当前抵御海岸侵蚀的常见措施。通过人为地向海滩补充沙源,以达到海岸防护、修复沙滩等目的。本文建立了XBeach一维海滩剖面演变数值模型,并与物理模型试验结果进行对比验证;计算常浪条件下不同方案补沙后海滩剖面达到平衡状态的速率;通过对比补沙工况与未补沙工况的风暴后剖面,分析风暴作用下的防护效果。结果发现,补沙量较大时,沙坝向海侧位置补沙在常浪条件下补沙效率高于滩肩补沙,在风暴条件下防护效果优于滩肩补沙。此次研究对于在实际海滩养护过程中节约施工成本、提高施工效率有着重要意义,同时对于评估沙滩养护工程效果有一定的参考价值。     

Community and Population Responses of the Macroinfauna to Physical Factors over a Range of Exposed Sandy Beaches in South-central Chile

Ten exposed sandy sites covering a range from reflective to dissipative beaches were sampled in south-central Chile to evaluate: (1) spatial changes in species richness, abundance and biomass of the intertidal macroinfauna in response to changes in mean grain size, beach face slope and beach type, and (2) spatial changes in abundance, biomass and body sizes of the most abundant species in response to changes in the physical factors. The number of species, abundance and biomass per beach in general decreased with increasing particle size and beach face slope (steeper beaches) and increased from reflective to dissipative conditions. The best fit for number of species was with Dean's parameter, a measure of beach type, whereas for abundance and biomass the best fits were found with particle size. The isopod Excirolana braziliensis and the anomuran Emerita analoga increased in abundance and biomass towards dissipative conditions, whereas Excirolana hirsuticauda showed the opposite trend in biomass and was significantly larger in beaches with steeper profiles. It is concluded that responses to changes in beach type are more pronounced at community level than within species populations.     

The effects of beach nourishment on the sandy-beach amphipod Exoediceros fossor: impact and recovery in Botany Bay, New South Wales, Australia

Beach nourishment is increasingly being implemented to address problems of erosion. However, the ecological consequences of nourishment are poorly understood, especially in Australia. In Botany Bay, sand was piped from an intertidal borrow area at Elephant's Trunk to nourish the nearby eroding beach at Towra Point. The effects on an intertidal exoedicerotid amphipod, Exoediceros fossor (Stimpson, 1856), were examined using a beyond-BACI (Before–After, Control–Impact) sampling design. Sampling was conducted before and after engineering operations at sites within the borrow and nourishment locations and multiple control locations. Hypotheses concerning impact and recovery were tested using asymmetrical ANOVAs and two-tailed F-tests. These examined the effects on abundance and spatial variability, respectively. The impact of the engineering operations on abundance was very large at both borrow and nourishment locations. However, recovery started within several weeks and, using space × time interactions as a criterion, appeared to be complete within a year. This conclusion is made cautiously because of low statistical power and because other criteria for recovery suggest that it was not complete at some sites. As beach erosion is likely to increase in severity with rising sea levels and greater storm surges associated with climate change, management authorities will need a better understanding of the ecological effects of beach nourishment.     

海滩修复养护技术发展趋势与前景

海岸侵蚀是沿海各国面临的共同问题,海滩养护是当前砂质海岸保护的最佳手段,在全球范围内得到广泛应用。本文回顾了海滩养护技术的发展历程,总结了世界范围的海滩养护实践,分析各国海滩养护理念上存在的差异。以研究文献为基础,总结归纳了平面和横向剖面的补砂方式、辅助工程技术和海滩模型预测等方面的海滩养护技术研究进展,并在此基础上提出了海滩养护的未来发展趋势:①针对复杂海岸的海滩养护应用拓展;②基于沉积物管理的海滩养护修复;③从地貌系统到生态系统全面考虑的海滩养护技术;④全球砂源赤字条件下的海滩保护和修复思路。     

Offshore sand sources for beach replenishment: Potential borrows on the continental shelf of the Eastern Gulf of Mexico

Erosion of sandy beaches is a worldwide problem that elicits innovative geoengineer‐ing techniques to reduce adverse impacts of shoreline retreat. Beach replenishment has emerged as the “soft”; shore‐stabilization technique of choice for mitigating beach erosion. This method of shore protection involves the addition of sand to the littoral sediment budget for sacrificial purposes. Because inland sand sources are often uneconomical or impractical to use, and known nearshore sources are limited, finding adequate quantities of suitable sand on the inner continental shelf is often vital to beach replenishment projects. The technical studies of survey and materials analysis that identify and delineate usable sand sources are sometimes almost as expensive as small‐project dredging, pumping, and placing the sand on the beach as fill. Inadequate quantity or substandard quality of shelf sand, as well as often‐prohibitive overhead expenses, thus compel shoreline managers to seek suitable sand sources offshore.

In the study area off the central‐west coast of Florida, offshore potential borrow areas (PBAs) were identified on the basis of studies conducted in reconnoitory and detailed phases. Sophisticated state‐of‐the‐art equipment used in this investigation provided more detailed subbottom mapping information than is normally obtained with conventional seismic equipment. An example of sand exploration studies was incorporated in a 215‐km² survey of offshore areas by conducting bathymetric surveys and subbottom seismic profiling, collecting jet probes, grab samples, and vibrocores, and analyzing sediment grading in subsamples from vibrocores. These combined analyses indicated that at least 8.8 ×10⁶ m³ of sand is available in potential borrow areas from 7.0 to 12 km offshore in water depths of 8.0 to 11.5 m. In the PBAs, mean grain size of sand falls into the range 0.13–0.53 mm, sorting averages 0.65–1.31ø, and the overall silt content varies from 3.9–8.5%. High silt contents (13–19%) mapped in some areas make these sedimentary deposits unsuitable as fill for artificial beach renourishment.     

Stability of an artificially nourished beach,Balaena Bay,Wellington Harbour,New Zealand

Balaena Bay, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand, has a small pocket beach that was covered originally by pebbles and cobbles. In February and October 1982, the beach was nourished with sandy granular gravel, the stability of which was monitored until February 1984. Although isolated from oceanic swell, the new beach readily responded to locally generated wind waves which induced both northwards and southwards longshore drift. The net effect was erosion of the southern beach, aggradation over the central beach, and minor fluctuations at the northern end. Yet despite this mobility nearly all the nourishment sediment was retained in the littoral zone. Beach volumes, calculated for each survey, varied little and sediment distribution patterns revealed negligable transport of nourishment sediment to adjacent beaches and offshore areas. Stability is further confirmed by compositional data which record no preferential loss of the sandstone, argillite, and quartz components. The only compositional changes were the incorporation into the new beach of small (< 10%) quantities of sediment derived from the old beach surface and from biogenic productivity.     

近岸人工沙坝保滩促淤的试验研究

借助正态波浪模型,对北戴河海滩某横断面有、无沙坝布置进行了3种水位的极限波高入射试验,测取了坝内外波高过程线及稳定后的断面地形。试验资料及理论分析显示:有无沙坝时沿岸流及波浪的挟沙能力之比与水下沙坝的波浪透射系数的平方成正比,按试验最大透射系数计算的挟沙能力亦可降50%左右,且有沙坝上涌带破波回流对岸滩的冲刷水深可以维持在平均海平面以下1 m内,说明人工沙坝的填筑很大程度促使水体挟带泥沙于掩护区域落淤有效的阻止了泥沙的离岸亏损。试验将为保滩促淤工程设计与实施提供科学依据。     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

大鹏湾岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征及原因分析——以官湖海滩为例

随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。