响水近岸海域波浪特性研究

基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料,分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性,研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性,并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间,年平均值为0.56 m;最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间,年平均值为0.93 m;平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s,年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节,波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言,通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面,本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%,且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值,其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右,高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间,分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系,发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性,但受波浪浅水变形影响,各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。     

海口湾海域波浪特征分析

通过在海口湾北部海域布置波浪观测站,对采集到的实测波浪资料进行统计和波谱分析,研究了琼州海峡波浪季节性变化特征。观测期间最大波高为5.6 m,发生在台风"莎莉嘉"经过期间。无台风影响的月份最大波高为3.0 m。年平均十分之一大波波高、年平均有效波高、年平均波高分别为0.5 m、0.4 m、0.3 m,该海域波高总体不大。波周期范围主要在2～7 s区间。研究结果表明:1)观测海区各月基本都受到东北风影响并存在东北向的波浪; 2)发现海区波浪类型主要是风浪为主的混合浪; 3)发现观测海区一直受到南海传入的长周期波影响; 4)海区风向与浪向的一致性在东北季风影响时段明显强于西南季风影响时段,风速与波高的相关性在东北季风影响时段明显强于西南季风影响时段,该现象在台风月份表现得尤其明显。     

A note on a critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes

Wind and wind-generated waves were measured in a wind-wave tank. A clear transition was found in the relation between the wind speed U ₁₀ and the wind friction velocity u _* near u _* = 0.2 m/s, where U ₁₀ is the wind speed at 10 m height extrapolated from the measured wind profile in a logarithmic layer, and u _* = 0.2 m/s corresponds roughly to U ₁₀ = 8 m/s in the present measurement. Quite a similar transition was found in the relation between the spectral density of high frequency wind waves and u _*. These results suggest the existence of the critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes, which was proposed by Munk (J Marine Res 6:203–218, 1947) more than half a century ago. His original idea of the critical wind speed was based on the discontinuities in such phenomena as white caps, wind stress, and evaporation, which commonly appear at a wind speed near 7 m/s. On the basis of the results of our present study and those of earlier studies, we discuss the phenomena which are relevant to the critical wind speed for the air–sea boundary processes. The conclusion is that the critical wind speed exists and it is attributed to the start of wave breaking rather than the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability, but the air–sea boundary processes are not discontinuous at a particular wind speed; because of the stochastic nature of breaking waves, the changes occur over a range of wind speeds. Detailed discussions are presented on the dynamical processes associated with the critical wind speed such as wind-induced change of sea surface roughness and high frequency wave spectrum. Future studies are required, however, to clarify the dynamical processes quantitatively. In particular, there is a need to further examine the gradual change of breaking patterns of wind waves with the increase of wind speed, and the associated change of the structure of the wind over wind waves, such as separation of the airflow at the crest of wind waves, the turbulent stress, and wave-induced stress. Studies on the dynamical structure of the high frequency wave spectrum are also needed.     

Satellite-based RAR performance simulation for measuring directional ocean wave spectrum based on SAR inversion spectrum

Some missions have been carried out to measure wave directional spectrum by synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and airborne real aperture radar (RAR) at a low incidence. Both them have their own advantages and limitations. Scientists hope that SAR and satellite-based RAR can complement each other for the research on wave properties in the future. For this study, the authors aim to simulate the satellite-based RAR system to validate performance for measuring the directional wave spectrum. The principal measurements are introduced and the simulation methods based on the one developed by Hauser are adopted and slightly modified. To enhance the authenticity of input spectrum and the wave spectrum measuring consistency for SAR and satellite-based RAR, the wave height spectrum inversed from Envisat ASAR data by cross spectrum technology is used as the input spectrum of the simulation system. In the process of simulation, the sea surface, backscattering signal, modulation spectrum and the estimated wave height spectrum are simulated in each look direction. Directional wave spectrum are measured based on the simulated observations from 0° to 360°. From the estimated wave spectrum, it has an 180° ambiguity like SAR, but it has no special high wave number cut off in all the direction. Finally, the estimated spectrum is compared with the input one in terms of the dominant wave wavelength, direction and SWH and the results are promising. The simulation shows that satellite-based RAR should be capable of measuring the directional wave properties. Moreover, it indicates satellite-based RAR basically can measure waves that SAR can measure.     

Seasonal variability of the Mindanao Current determined using mooring observations from 2010 to 2014

A mooring was deployed east of Mindanao Island at 8°N, 127°3′E from December 2010 to August 2014 to collect direct measurements of the Mindanao Current (MC). The Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) fixed on the main float shows that the MC is a strong and stable southward flow with a standard deviation less than 21 cm/s in the upper 500 m. The core flows between depths of 50 and 100 m with a maximum mean speed of 78 cm/s at 100 m. The seasonal variability of MC varies interannually and is depth-dependent. Although it takes a double-peak structure in the upper 200 m with two maxima in April and June and one minimum in October, the MC velocity has its maximum during boreal summer (June) and a minimum in autumn (September) when a 100-day low-pass filter is applied to remove intraseasonal signals. The semiannual signals are mainly limited between 200 and 350 m. The Asian monsoon intensifies the wind-driven sea-surface height anomaly (SSHA) east of Mindanao Island, and the resulting sharp slope induces meridional flow with large variability. Rossby waves and the boundary effect weaken the contribution of wind, stabilizing the flow of MC. The MC is determined by the zonal gradient of the SSHA rather than the SSHA itself, suggesting a possible inconsistency in seasonality between the Mindanao Eddy (ME) and MC. The semiannual ME signal plays an important role in the seasonal variability of MC.     

浙江东矶列岛海域实测波要素及典型台风浪特征分析

利用东矶列岛海域一年实测波浪资料,统计分析波要素特征,以台风“利奇马”为例,分析台风浪演变过程。结果表明：研究海域年平均有效波高0.88 m,年平均周期4.3 s,年最大波高8.67 m出现在夏季台风“利奇马”影响时。研究海域以轻浪为主,其次是小浪和中浪;常浪向为ESE,次常浪向为E和SE;强浪向为SSE,次强浪向为SE。波浪平均持续时间和波高之间符合指数衰减关系。台风“利奇马”影响期间,最大谱峰56.20 m²/Hz,台风浪谱型以双峰谱为主,台风浪类型经历了涌浪—混合浪—风浪—混合浪—涌浪这一演变过程。     

On the form of crests in limiting gravity waves

Properties of surface singularities and the form of wave crests of limiting gravity waves in steady-state flows of an ideal liquid are considered by analyzing the kinematic boundary condition. It is shown that, for rotational waves, the angle at the crest can have any value from 0° to 180°, while it has the only value 90° in the case of irrotational waves. Two inferences are made from Bernoulli’s integral and the properties of singularities: (i) the Stokes wave is a rotational wave and (ii) no angular points can appear on the profiles of capillary-gravity and capillary waves.     

Investigation on the Cyclonic Seastate along Southeast Coast of India

The east coast of the Indian Peninsula experiences the effects of a devastating cyclone at least annually. The Thane cyclone of 29–30 December 2011 has been once such event that resulted in significant damages along the coastline of Tamil Nadu on the southeast coast of India (13° 9′ 10′ N and 80° 21′E). Waves as high as 8–12 m in a water depth of 20 m have been measured. Such huge waves, combined with a storm surge of 0.5 m, lead to severe damages to coastal structures during the passage of the cyclone. As a part of an exercise in assessing the sediment transport rates through measurements of the hydrodynamic driving parameters along the coast of major port of Chennai instruments were deployed for the measurement of waves and flow field. The measurement campaign was carried out at a location of about 120 km north of the cyclone made landfall. The ENCEP wind data formed the input for executing the WAM model for the simulation of wave characteristics, which are compared with the measured wave data. The agreement between them is found to be good. The details of the analysis of the results are presented and discussed in this paper.     

Determining the weights of two types of artificial reefs required to resist wave action in different water depths and bottom slopes

The interaction between waves and artificial reefs (ARs; a hollow cube weighing 8.24 kN (0.84 t) and a water pipe weighing 1.27 kN (0.13 t)) in shallow waters was investigated with respect to variations in design weight, orientation (for cube; 45° and 90° angles, for pipe; 0°, 90°, and 180° angles to flow), depth (1–20 m), and bottom slope (10^?1, 30^?1, and 50^?1). Physics equations and FLUENT software were used to estimate resisting and mobilising forces, and drag coefficients. Drag coefficients for the hollow cube were 0.76 and 0.85 at 45° and 90° angles to the current, respectively, and 0.97, 0.38, and 1.42 for the water pipe at 0°, 90°, and 180° angles to the current, respectively. Deepwater offshore wave conditions at six stations were transformed into shallow nearshore waters representative of the artificial reef site. Waters deeper than 12 and 16 m are safe to deploy blocks with angles of 45° and 90°, respectively. However, water pipes constructed at angles of 90° and 180° to the current were estimated as being unstable for 365 out of 720 cases at all stations (only one station was stable for all cases). Water pipes angled at 0° were found to be stable in all 360 cases. Slope had a significant effect on weight and depth. Results from this study provide an important reference for engineers performing projects aiming to increase the performance and service life of ARs.     

Oceanic Rossby waves induced by the meridional shift of the ITCZ in association with ENSO events

This study investigated the eastern Pacific Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) as an atmospheric forcing to the ocean by using various observed and reanalysis data sets over 29 years. Climatologically, a zonal band of positive wind stress curl (WSC) with a 10° meridional width was exhibited along the ITCZ. A southward shift of the positive WSC band during the El Niño phase induced a negative (positive) WSC anomaly along the northern (southern) portion of the ITCZ, and vice versa during the La Niña phase. This meridional dipole accounted for more than 25 % of interannual variances of the WSC anomalies (WSCAs), based on analysis of the period 1993–2008. The negative (positive) WSCA in the northern portion of the ITCZ during the El Niño (La Niña) phase was collocated with a positive (negative) sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) that propagated westward as a Rossby wave all the way to the western North Pacific. This finding indicates that this off-equatorial Rossby wave is induced by the WSCA around the ITCZ. Our analysis of a 1.5-layer reduced gravity model revealed that the Rossby waves are mostly explained by wind stress forcing, rather than by reflection of an equatorial Kelvin wave on the eastern coastal boundary. The off-equatorial Rossby wave had the same SSHA polarity as the equatorial Kelvin wave, and generation of a phase-preserving Rossby wave without the Kelvin wave reflection was explained by meridional movement of the ITCZ. Thus, the ITCZ acts as an atmospheric bridge that connects the equatorial and off-equatorial oceanic waves.     

强台风“卡努”过境期间的风和海浪特征分析

南海北部海域夏季台风活动频繁,对海上生产活动和人民生命财产安全造成极大威胁,由于台风路径的不确定性,其中心附近区域的风浪观测资料十分稀少。中国气象局(China Meteorological Administration, CMA)热带气旋最佳路径数据显示2017年10月强台风“卡努”中心经过南海北部陆坡的SF301浮标,该浮标完整记录了台风过境的风浪数据。利用浮标观测资料,分析了强台风“卡努”过境期间的风和海浪特征。观测结果表明,“卡努”经过浮标时,中心气压为959.9 hPa,风速随时间呈双峰分布,前、后眼壁区的10 min平均风速分别为30.2 m/s和24.9 m/s, 1 s极大风速分别为44.2和38.6 m/s。海浪以风浪为主,观测有效波高和最大波高最大值分别为10.8和14.3 m,滞后最大风速30 min,波向和风向变化趋势一致。台风过境期间,有效波高与海面10 m风速接近线性关系,非台风期间二者呈二次多项式关系。海浪无因次波高和周期呈幂指数关系,无论是台风期间还是非台风期间二者关系十分接近Toba提出的3/2指数律。     

Possibilities of X-band nautical radars for monitoring of wind waves near the coast

We present the results of development and testing of a coastal X-band radar system for monitoring wind waves and currents at the Black Sea (near Gelendzhik) created on the basis of nautical radars. Radar measurements of wave heights were validated by data from a wave buoy and a moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The conditions for successful radar measurements of waves in the coastal environment have been determined. It was shown that a radar with an aperture 1° could successfully measure wave heights at a distance of 1.2 km from the radar, when waves arrive at an angle of ±31° to the main sensing direction. In this case, for wave height measurements, the correlation coefficient between the radar and independent data is 0.82 and the standard deviation is 0.26 m.     

The 26 December 2004 Sumatra tsunami recorded on the coast of West Africa

Analysis of sea-level data obtained from the Atlantic Global Sea Level Observing System (GLOSS) sea-level station at Takoradi, Ghana, West Africa, clearly reveals a tsunami signal associated with the M_w = 9.3 Sumatra earthquake of 26 December 2004 in the Indian Ocean. The tsunami arrived at this location on 27 December 2004 at approximately 01:38 UTC (which is close to the expected tsunami arrival time at that site), after travelling for more than 24 hours. The first wave was negative (trough), in contrast with the South African stations where the first wave was mainly positive (crest). The dominant observed period at Takoradi was about 42 minutes. The maximum trough-to-crest wave height (41cm) was observed on 28 December at 00:15 UTC. There were two distinct tsunami 'bursts', separated in time by about 14 hours, the larger being the second burst. A small residual lowering of the sea level (～15cm) during the tsunami and for several days afterwards, and a delayed (～4.5 days) lowering of seawater temperature (up to ～4.5°C), was observed, possibly indicating the presence of internal waves through the Gulf of Guinea associated with propagating tsunami waves. The prominent tsunami signal found in the Takoradi record suggests that tsunami waves could also be found at other sites off the West African coast.     

多源卫星高度计海浪资料在中国近海的验证及应用

Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height(SWH) have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate characteristics in the offshore areas of China. First, the SWH measurements from 28 buoys located in China's coastal seas were compared with an Ifremer calibrated altimeter SWH dataset. Although the altimeter dataset tended to slightly overestimate SWH, it was in good agreement with the in situ data in general. The correlation coefficient was 0.97 and the root-mean-square(RMS) of differences was 0.30 m. The validation results showed a slight difference in different areas. The correlation coefficient was the maximum(0.97) and the RMS difference was the minimum(0.28 m) in the area from the East China Sea to the north of the South China Sea.The correlation coefficient of approximately 0.95 was relatively low in the seas off the Changjiang(Yangtze River) Estuary. The RMS difference was the maximum(0.32 m) in the seas off the Changjiang Estuary and was0.30 m in the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. Based on the above evidence, it is confirmed that the multialtimeter wave data are reliable in China's offshore areas. Then, the characteristics of the wave field, including the frequency of huge waves and the multi-year return SWH in China's offshore seas were analyzed using the23-year altimeter wave dataset. The 23-year mean SWH generally ranged from 0.6–2.2 m. The greatest SWH appeared in the southeast of the China East Sea, the Taiwan Strait and the northeast of the South China Sea.Obvious seasonal variation of SWH was found in most areas; SWH was greater in winter and autumn than in summer and spring. Extreme waves greater than 4 m in height mainly occurred in the following areas: the southeast of the East China Sea, the south of the Ryukyu Islands, the east of Taiwan-Luzon Island, and the Dongsha Islands extending to the Zhongsha Islands, and the frequency of extreme waves was 3%–6%. Extreme waves occurred most frequently in autumn and rarely in spring. The 100-year return wave height was greatest from the northwest Pacific seas extending to southeast of the Ryukyu Islands(9–12 m), and the northeast of the South China Sea and the East China Sea had the second largest wave heights(7–11 m). For inshore areas, the100-year return wave height was the greatest in the waters off the east coast of Guangdong Province and the south coast of Zhejiang Province(7–8 m), whereas it was at a minimum in the area from the Changjiang Estuary to the Bohai Sea(4–6 m). An investigation of sampling effects indicates that when using the 1°×1°grid dataset, although the combination of nine altimeters obviously enhanced the time and space coverage of sampling, the accuracy of statistical results, particularly extreme values obtained from the dataset, still suffered from undersampling problems because the time sampling percent in each 1°×1°grid cell was always less than33%.     

Microstructure measurements and finescale parameterization assessment of turbulent mixing in the northern South China Sea

Both microscale and finescale measurements were conducted along 20°N and 21°N in the northern South China Sea (SCS) during July 2007. Spatial variability of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rate was examined, and two finescale parameterizations were assessed and compared. TKE dissipation rates along the 21°N section were found to be much higher than those along 20°N; in particular, remarkably high TKE dissipation rates existed near the Luzon Strait and around the Dongsha Plateau, which were likely caused by internal tides and internal solitary waves, respectively. The Gregg–Henyey scaling does not work well in the northern SCS, while the MacKinnon–Gregg scaling with a modified parameter matches the observations in both magnitude and variability. One explanation is that the large-scale/low-mode shear mainly comes from low-frequency internal waves such as internal tides, which are not described well by the Garrett–Munk spectrum.     

Radar backscatter from mechanically generated transient breakingwaves. II. Azimuthal and grazing angle dependence

For Pt. I see ibid. vol. 26, pp. 181-200 (2001). This paper describes the results of experimental investigations into the microwave backscatter from mechanically generated transient breaking waves. The investigations were carried out in a 110 m×7.6 m×4 m deep model basin, utilizing chirped wave packets spanning 0.75-1.75 Hz. Backscatter measurements were taken by a K-band continuous wave radar (24.125 GHz) at 40° angle of incidence, and at azimuth angles of 0°, 45°, 90°, 135° and 180° relative to the direction of wave propagation. Grazing measurements were conducted using an X-band (10.525 GHz) FMCW radar at 85° angle of incidence, and azimuth angles of 0° and 180°. Results show that the maximum radar backscatter was obtained in the upwave direction prior to wave breaking and was caused by the specular or near specular presentation of the wave to the radar. After breaking, the backscatter transitioned from a specular or near-specular dominated scattering, primarily seen in the upwave direction, to a small scale roughness dominated scattering, observed at all azimuths. Physical optics solutions were found to correctly predict the backscatter for the specular or near-specular dominated scattering and the small perturbation method was found to accurately model the VV polarization post-break radar backscatter     

机载波谱仪海浪谱反演方法及其验证

为了验证波谱仪反演二维海浪谱的功能,根据海浪波谱仪的信号形成机制,总结了机载波谱仪反演海浪的流程。利用机载波谱仪回波数据,通过自相关和互相关两种功率谱估计方法,反演了二维海浪谱。最后通过与浮标测量的二维海浪谱进行对比,验证了该机载波谱仪探测二维海浪谱的有效性。结果表明,无论采用自相关函数还是互相关函数进行功率谱估计,得到的主波波长和有效波高与实际二维海浪谱基本一致。互相关函数法得到的交叉谱能去除180°模糊现象,其在计算有效波高时相对于自相关函数会稍微偏小。在计算斜率方差时可以采用5°~12°入射角范围的后向散射系数进行公式拟合,因此定标与否并不影响最后的二维海浪谱结果,未来星载波谱仪只有靠多波束联合才能实现。     

“烟花”台风影响下长江口水域波浪分布特征研究

台风往往会带来强风、大浪、风暴潮。强潮大浪给长江口深水航道整治工程的维护带来挑战。构建了覆盖中国海的台风浪—风暴潮耦合数学模型,模拟了台风“烟花”作用下长江口北槽水域波浪的发展过程,分析了长江口北槽水域波浪分布特点和台风强度。研究表明：叠加风场和潮汐模式共同驱动的台风浪―风暴潮耦合模型,可以准确模拟台风期间长江口水域波浪的生成和发展过程;“烟花”台风期间,外海大浪以东方向浪为主,长江口北槽南挡沙堤沿线有效波高最大值介于1.61~5.22 m之间,自东向西逐渐衰减;台风过程中,长江口北槽水域有效波高在台风二次登录时刻达到最大,口门处有5. 0 m以上大浪;依据台风过程中长江口风速及外海波高、周期与参考规范值对比分析得出,“烟花”台风过程波浪强度约为50年一遇。     

Probability distribution of wave heights attenuated by salt marsh vegetation during tropical cyclone

Zero-crossing wave heights, obtained from the field measurement of random waves propagating through salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) during a tropical storm, were analyzed to examine their probability distribution. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were collected over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using three pressure transducers sampling at 10 Hz. Wave height distribution was observed to deviate from the Rayleigh distribution. The observed probability densities of the larger wave heights were reduced significantly by vegetation, producing wave heights lower than those predicted by the Rayleigh distribution. Assuming Rayleigh distributed wave heights for the incident waves to the vegetation patch, existing vegetation-induced wave attenuation formulations are used to derive a special form of two-parameter Weibull distribution for wave heights in the inundated wetland. The scale parameter of the distribution is theoretically shown to be a function of the shape parameter, which agrees with the measurements, effectively reducing the proposed distribution to a one-parameter type. The derived distribution depends on the local parameters only and fits well to the observed distribution of wave heights attenuated by vegetation. Empirical relationships are developed to estimate the shape parameter from the local wave parameters.