A novel technique in analyzing non-linear wave-wave interaction

During wave growth non-linear wave–wave interactions cause transfer of some wave energy from lower to higher wave periods as the spectrum grows. Wavelet bicoherence, which is a new technique in the analysis of wind–wave and wave–wave interactions, is used to analyze non-linear wave–wave interactions. A selected record of wind wave that contains the maximum wave height observed during 6 h of wave generation is divided into five segments and wavelet bicoherence is computed for the whole record, and for all divided segments. The study shows that the non-linear wave–wave interaction occurs at different bicoherence levels and these levels are different from one segment to another due to the non-stationarity feature of the examined data set.     

Experimental study of wave–wave nonlinear interactions using the wavelet-based bicoherence

The wavelet-based bicoherence, which is a new and powerful tool in the analysis of nonlinear phase coupling, is used to study the nonlinear wave–wave interactions of breaking and non-breaking gravity waves propagating over a sill. Two cases of mechanically generated random waves based on Jonswap spectra are used for this purpose. Values of relative depth, k_ph (k_p is the wave number of the spectral peak and h is the water depth) for this study range between 0.38 and 1.22. The variations of wavelet-based total bicoherence for the test cases indicate that the degree of quadratic phase coupling increases in the shoaling region consistent with a wave profile that is pitched shoreward, relative to a vertical axis as seen in the experiments, but decreases in the de-shoaling region. For the non-breaking case, the degree of quadratic phase coupling continues to increase until waves reach the top of the sill. Breaking waves, however, achieve their highest level of quadratic phase coupling immediately before incipient breaking and the degree of phase coupling decreases sharply following breaking. In addition the wavelet-based bicoherence spectra provide evidence of the harmonics' growth which is reflected in the energy spectra. The bicoherence spectra also show that quadratic phase coupling between modes within the peak frequency as well as between modes of the peak frequency and its higher harmonics are dominant in the shoaling region, even though there are relatively high levels of quadratic phase coupling occurring between other frequencies. Furthermore, using the temporal resolution property of the wavelet-based bicoherence, we find that the quadratic wave interactions occur more readily during segments of time with large change of wave amplitude, rather than those segments having large wave amplitudes, but small gradients in amplitude.     

Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan

This paper presents an analysis of a set of available freak wave measurements gathered from several periods of continuous wave recordings made in the Sea of Japan during 1986–1990 by the Ship Research Institute of Japan. The analysis provides an ideal opportunity to catch a glimpse of the statistics of freak waves in the ocean. The results show that a well-defined freak wave may occur in the developed wind–wave condition: S(f)∝f⁻⁴, with single-peak directional spectra. The crest and trough amplitude distributions of the observed sea waves including freak waves are different from the Rayleigh distribution, although the wave height distribution tends to agree with the Rayleigh distribution. Freak waves can be readily identified from the wavelet spectrum where a strong energy density occurs in the spectrum, and is instantly surged and seemingly carried over to the high-frequency components at the instant the freak wave occurs.     

Correlation between successive wave heights and periods in mixed sea states

The degree of dependence between successive wave heights and periods is examined for sea states resulting from the combination of a remotely generated wave field and a locally generated wave system, based on simulated wave records. The sea states analysed represent situations that are swell dominated, wind–sea dominated or they have equivalent energy in the wind–sea and swell components. Results of the analysis of the simulated data have been compared with those expected from the theories for the joint distributions of consecutive wave heights and periods and with the results from a Pierson–Moskowitz target spectrum.     

Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Modeling of coupled tide–wave–surge process in the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been developed in this study in order to investigate the effect of the interactions among tides, storm surges, and wind waves. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress, which is generated by interactions between wind and wave, is calculated by using the WAM model directly based on an analytical approximation of the results using the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes in bottom friction are created by the interactions between waves and currents and calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. In consequence, the combined wave–current-induced bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient were increased in the shallow waters during the strong storm conditions.     

A synchronously coupled tide–wave–surge model of the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been established in this study in order to investigate the effect of tides, storm surges, and wind waves interactions during a winter monsoon on November 1983 in the Yellow Sea. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM-Cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress generated by interactions between wind and waves is calculated using the WAM-Cycle 4 directly based on an analytical approximation of the results obtained from the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes of bottom friction factor generated by waves and current interactions are calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. The model simulations showed that bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient induced by combination of wave and current were increased in shallow waters of up to 50 m in the Yellow Sea during the wintertime strong storm conditions.     

The relationship between the amplitudinal characteristics of the high-frequency spectral components of wind-generated waves and the wind velocity over the sea

The relationship between the RMS amplitudes of the wind wave spectral components and the wind speed has been studied at ten frequencies in the band of 0.65–23 Hz. To measure the parameters of the high-frequenci waves, a resistance elevation wave gauge was operated, which was deployed in the Black See on an oceanographic platform near Katsively. The correlation between the wave amplitudes and the wind velocity at high frequencies of 5–23 Hz, corresponding to gravitation-capillary ripples, was found to reach a value of 0.8. At lower frequencies of 0.65–4.3 Hz, corresponding to short gravity waves, it dropped to 0.5–0.7. The response of spectral components to the wind speed variations in the gravity-capillary range is higher than in the range of short gravity waves. The results obtained differ from Phillips' idea about a saturated range for the frequency form of the spectrum of high-frequency gravity waves, since a linear dependence of the spectral amplitudes on the wind speed is established at a wind of force 1–8.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Coupling winds to ocean surface currents over the global ocean

A Wind stress–Current Coupled System (WCCS) consisting of the HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM) and an improved wind stress algorithm based on Donelan et al. [Donelan, W.M., Drennan, Katsaros, K.B., 1997. The air–sea momentum flux in mixed wind sea and swell conditions. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 27, 2087–2099] is developed by using the Earth System Modeling Framework (ESMF). The WCCS is applied to the global ocean to study the interactions between the wind stress and the ocean surface currents. In this study, the ocean surface current velocity is taken into consideration in the wind stress calculation and air–sea heat flux calculation. The wind stress that contains the effect of ocean surface current velocity will be used to force the HYCOM. The results indicate that the ocean surface velocity exerts an important influence on the wind stress, which, in turn, significantly affects the global ocean surface currents, air–sea heat fluxes, and the thickness of ocean surface boundary layer. Comparison with the TOGA TAO buoy data, the sea surface temperature from the wind–current coupled simulation showed noticeable improvement over the stand-alone HYCOM simulation.     

Wave grouping characteristics in nearshore Great Lakes II

This is a sequel with extensive new data to Liu's (Liu, 2000a. Wave grouping characteristics in nearshore Great Lakes. Ocean Engineering 27, 1221–1230) exploratory study on wave grouping characteristics in the nearshore Great Lakes. We analyze recent GLERL time-series measurements recorded by pressure sensors deployed at four nearshore stations in southern Lake Michigan during 1998–1999. With the advantage of continued application of time-frequency wavelet spectrum analysis, the extensive new measurements substantially confirmed the effectiveness of the empirical characterization of wave grouping parameters defined in Liu. We show that a wave group is really the basic element for a detailed understanding of wave processes, in contrast to the conventional approach of using a frequency spectrum as the basic element, which depends on the recording length and requires the data to be stationary. While studying wave time-series alone does not really alleviate the vast intricacies of the wind wave processes, the embodiment of wave grouping as the predominant feature in the wind wave processes clearly represents a significant step forward toward sound conceptual advancement.     

A note on nearshore wave features: Implications for wave generation

This paper analyses 10 years of wave data from the Mediterranean Spanish (Catalan) coast considering the mean wave climate and storm events from the standpoint of wind-wave momentum transfer and wave prediction. The data, registered by a buoy at about 12 km from the coastline, revealed two main groups of wave storms, with NW and E directions. NW storms correspond to a fetch-limited situation since the intense wind blows from land. Low-pressure centres located over the Mediterranean Sea produce easterly storms. Near the coast the eastern winds from the sea are replaced by NW winds coming from meteorological patterns over northern Spain and south-western France. Wave storms are classified and studied to obtain their main features (including spectral width, wave length, wave age and bimodality) and discussed in terms of wind-wave momentum transfer for operational wave predictions. Observations show a complex coastal wave climate. Fetch-limited storms presented smaller spectral widths while varying wind situations presented larger widths due to the presence of bimodal spectra. These wave features are highly relevant for wind–ocean momentum transfer and, thus, for current and wave predictions. The spectral width proved to be a good indicator of sea complexity and is thus applicable for improved wind drag estimations. A new drag coefficient formulation is proposed, based on existing wind dependent drag expressions, but including also spectral wave properties (a spectral width parameter) that highlights the characteristics of wind-wave generation under pre-existing swell. Such a formulation, once properly validated with field observations, is expected to improve wind-wave predictions.     

The mixing and spreading phases of MEDOC. I

The processes which produce bottom water in the Mediterranean are studied. Observations show three phases. The first, called ‘preconditioning’, is not studied. The second ‘violent mixing’ phase occurs when the cold Mistral begins. Cooling at the surface leads to intense vertical mixing in a narrow chimney-like region. When the wind stops, the ‘sinking and spreading’ phase begins. Interleaving of water masses occurs; horizontal eddying on scales of 15 km is observed; and 600 m columns of water can be lifted up to 500 m.A two-dimensional model is used to explain the mixing phase. Non-penetrative vertical convection explains the observations well. Advection of water from outside the column is small, and slows down the descent of the outer parts of the column as observed. The column does not break up even when it reaches the bottom, or if the strong winds cease.The most efficient mechanism for the spreading phase is baroclinic instability. In conditions of vertical overturning there is a large amount of potential energy available to drive the instability. For an eddy viscosity of 50 m² s⁻¹, after 10 days sinking the growth time is 3–4 days and the eddies are mainly concentrated at the surface with a major axis length of about 15 km. These tend to stabilize the top few hundred meters of the column. Later, finite amplitude effects will produce slower perturbations in the rest of the column.     

Estimation of the bispectra and phase distribution of storm sea states with abnormal waves

This work deals with the estimation of the bispectrum of wind waves during severe storms containing abnormal or freak waves. It presents the basic definitions of higher-order spectra and of the bispectra in particular and further suggests how to interpret some of the results to identify non-linearity in the wave time series. Different estimation methods are used and compared so as to identify the differences in the estimated bispectra that results from the estimation procedure and the ones that result from the physics of the sea states. It is found that as a result of the second-order self-coupling the phase distribution of the wind wave during the severe storms differs from the uniform one and is well approximated by the distribution proposed by Tayfun and Lo [1989. Envelope, phase and narrow-band models of sea waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coast and Ocean Engineering 115(5), 594–613.].     

Higher-harmonic focused-wave forces on a vertical cylinder

This paper considers higher-harmonic forces due to wave focusing on a vertical circular cylinder. A series of experiments has been conducted in a wave flume. The first six-harmonic components of the measured wave forces are analyzed using the scale-averaged wavelet spectrum. It is noted that due to the transient nature of focused (freak) waves, Fourier analysis would not provide equivalent information to that gleaned from the analyses used herein. The results for the experiments with very steep wave crests show significant amplitudes at the fourth and fifth harmonics. These harmonics exhibit amplitudes that are the same order as the second harmonic, but much larger than those of the third harmonic. The wavelet-based bicoherence is used to detect the quadratic nonlinearity of the measured forces. And the bicoherence spectra reveal the primary mathematical reason for the existence of the striking amplitudes of the fourth and fifth harmonics: the interaction between the lower-harmonic components couple more strongly with the fourth and fifth harmonics, thus the fourth and fifth harmonics glean more energy than those of the third-harmonic components. However, the physical explanation for this remains elusive.     

Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.     

On the variability of the high-frequency part of the spectrum of wind-forced sea waves

Data on the temporal variability of sea wave spectral components in the frequency range 1–8 Hz, collected by a drifting vessel in the Pacific ocean (wind speed 1–10 m/s), are discussed in this paper. For the frequency range 3–6 Hz (wind speed 5–8 m/s), a weak variability of the ripples is observed, synchronous with long waves; in the remaining part of the spectral range studied the fluctuations are fortuitous. It is concluded that the wind plays a crucial role in forming the ripples' fluctuation characteristics in the high-frequency part of the spectrum.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Investigation of the Energy Balance in the Water–Air Boundary Layer under the Conditions of Developing Wind Waves

We present the results of the analysis of the energy balance in a wind–water system under the conditions of developing waves. Our investigation is based on the use of the experimental data obtained in a water channel and taken from the literature. We propose an expression for the energy balance between the air flow and wavy water surface based on the data of simultaneous measurements of the vertical wind profiles and drift currents and the parameters of waves for various fetches and indifferent density stratification.     

A submarine-launched wave measuring buoy

A wave buoy, the Submarine Deployed Sea State Sensor (SUDSS), was developed to directly measure surface waves from a submerged moving submarine. The SUDSS is adapted from the Submarine Launched Expendable Bathythermograph (SSXBT) by replacing its temperature probe with a vertical sensing accelerometer. The SUDSS, launched from the aft signal ejector, utilizes the SSXBT cylinder, its lifting body, and filament wire spool-out mechanisms. Upon surfacing it oscillates vertically in phase with waves of frequencies below 0.5 Hz producing a voltage signal that is conducted via the filament wire back to the submarine and processed to produce a 10–12 minute wave record. On-board data analysis determines spectra, sea state, and the partial variance of spectral energy which between 0.2–0.5 Hz estimates the local wind speed.An accelerometer calibrator for wave frequencies was assembled consisting of a computer-controlled motor-driven swing arm which rotates an accelerometer as a simple harmonic oscillator; different rotation rates providing a variety of frequencies. Absolute accelerations are determined from the arm radius and its angular velocity. Wilcoxen accelerometers were chosen, providing a linear output of 1 v/g₀ (sensitivity) for simulated waves from 0.09–0.25 Hz (4–11 s periods).The SUDSS fitted with a buoyant tether signal cable, can be deployed from a surface ship for rapid wave/sea state measurements.