关于Boussinesq型水波方程理论和应用研究的综述

Boussinesq型方程是研究水波传播与演化问题的重要工具之一,本文就1967-2018年常用的Boussinesq型水波方程从理论推导和数值应用两个方面进行了回顾,以期推动该类方程在海岸(海洋)工程波浪水动力方向的深入研究和应用。此类方程推导主要从欧拉方程或Laplace方程出发。在一定的非线性和缓坡假设等条件下,国内外学者建立了多个Boussinesq型水波方程,并以Stokes波的相关理论为依据,考察了这些方程在相速度、群速度、线性变浅梯度、二阶非线性、三阶非线性、波幅离散、速度沿水深分布以及和(差)频等多方面性能的精度。将Boussinesq型水波方程分为水平二维和三维两大类,并对主要Boussinesq型水波方程的特性进行了评述。进而又对适合渗透地形和存在流体分层情况下的Boussinesq型水波方程进行了简述与评论。最后对这些方程的应用进行了总结与分析。     

强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值模型检验

采用同位网格有限差分法,建立了强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值计算模型。以稳恒波Fourier近似解给定入射波边界条件,对均匀水深深水和浅水域不同非线性的行进波、缓坡地形上深水至浅水域的浅水变形波、以及缓坡和陡坡地形上的波浪水槽实验进行了数值计算,并将计算结果与解析解、解析数值解以及实验值进行了较为详细的比较,从而检验了模型的色散性、非线性以及不同底坡下非线性波的浅水变形性能。     

新型Boussinesq方程的进一步改善

基于传统的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程,通过速度变换及在方程中加入高阶项的方法,给出了进一步改善线性色散关系及变浅作用系数的方程,其线性色散关系及变浅作用系数的精度均为Ｏ（β８）（β＝ｈ０／Ｌ,Ｌ为特征波长,ｈ０为特征水深）．     

加强的适合复杂地形的水波方程及其一维数值模型验证

在他人给出的方程的基础上,通过在其动量方程中引入含4个参数的公式,推导出了加强的适合复杂地形的水波方程,新方程的色散、变浅作用以及非线性均比原来适合复杂地形的方程有了改善:色散关系式与斯托克斯线性波的Padé(4,4)阶展开式一致;变浅作用在相对水深(波数乘水深)不大于6时与解析解符合较好;非线性在相对水深不大于1.05时保持在5%的误差之内.基于该方程,在非交错网格下建立的时间差分格式为混合4阶Adams-Bashforth-Moulton的一维数值模型,并在数值计算中利用了五对角宽带解法.数值模拟了潜堤上波浪传播变形,并将数值计算结果与实验结果进行了对比,验证了该数值模型是合理的.     

Boussinesq水波方程新型数值解法

为建立高效的Boussinesq类水波数值模型,提出了一种新型的、基于有限差分和有限体积方法的混合数值格式。针对守恒形式的一维控制方程,在等间距矩形控制体内对其进行积分并离散,采用有限体积方法计算界面数值通量,剩余源项采用有限差分方法计算。其中,采用MUSTA格式并结合高精度状态插值方法计算控制体界面数值通量。时间积分则采用具有TVD性质的三阶龙格-库塔多步积分法进行。除验证模型外,重点对MUSTA格式和广泛使用的HLL格式进行了比较。结果表明,MUSTA格式可用于Boussinesq类水波方程数值求解,综合考虑数值精度、计算效率、程序编制和实际应用这几个方面,其较HLL格式更具有优势。     

适合中等水流的Boussinesq方程

推导了含量阶为O(ε1/2)的瞬变非均匀流的Boussinesq水波方程,讨论了该量阶水流对流场速度和压力分布的影响,采用了Crank-Nicolson格式的预估-校正有限差分法对该方程进行了数值求解.把数值结果与无水流情况的实验结果进行了对比,验证了该方程和数值计算方法的有效性,与经典的Boussinesq方程和含量阶为O(1)的瞬变非均匀流的Boussinesq水波方程的计算结果进行了比较,考察了该方程的适用范围.     

缓坡方程与Boussinesq方程特征的分析比较

在对缓坡方程和Boussinesq方程研究的基础上，从方程的基本形式和特征以及频散关系等方面对二者进行了分析和比较，明确了线性缓坡方程在频散性上要好于非线性Boussinesq方程。此外还对Boussinesq型模型与抛物型缓坡方程模型在Berkhoff椭圆地形的计算结果及其精度也进行比较，计算结果与实测数据吻合很好，说明这两种模型都可以用于模拟近岸波浪传播过程所发生的各种变形。但由于各自控制方程对各物理过程的处理不同，因此各有特征。     

关于波浪Boussinesq方程的研究

对有关波浪 Boussinesq方程的研究成果进行了系统的归纳总结和评述 ,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用     

二阶Boussinesq方程的孤立波解

基于同量阶迭代法，在保留同阶面的前提下，对林建国等（1998a)得到的二阶Boussinesq类方程进行了求解，得到了与其量阶相对应的取立波解，并春与Euler方程的二阶孤立波解进行了比较，结果显示，本文解比传统Boussinesq方程的孤立波解有明显的改善，扩大了孤立的适用范围。     

交错网格下的Boussinesq水波数值模型

针对一组近似到二阶完全非线性,四阶色散的Boussinesq方程,在交错网格下建立了数学模型.计算中时间层不交错,模型的求解利用混合四阶Adams-Bashforth-Moulton格式的有限差分法.数值模拟了波浪在潜堤上的演化过程,再现了波浪的浅化、反射以及非线性波能量传递等现象.对数值计算结果采用Friouer变换...     

Extended Boussinesq equations for rapidly varying topography

We developed a new Boussinesq-type model which extends the equations of Madsen and Sørensen [1992. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2. A slowly varying bathymetry. Coastal Engineering 18, 183-204.] by including both bottom curvature and squared bottom slope terms. Numerical experiments were conducted for wave reflection from the Booij's [1983. A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation. Coastal Engineering 7, 191-203] planar slope with different wave frequencies using several types of Boussinesq equations. Madsen and Sørensen's model results are accurate in the whole slopes in shallow waters, but inaccurate in intermediate water depths. Nwogu's [1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equation for nearshore wave propagation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 119, 618-638] model results are accurate up to 1:1 (V:H) slope, but significantly inaccurate for steep slopes. The present model results are accurate up to the slope of 1:1, but somewhat inaccurate for very steep slopes. Further, numerical experiments were conducted for wave reflections from a ripple patch and also a Gaussian-shaped trench. For the two cases, the results of Nwogu's model and the present model are accurate, because these models include the bottom curvature term which is important for the cases. However, Madsen and Sørensen's model results are inaccurate, because this model neglects the bottom curvature term.     

Comparison between characteristics of mild slope equations and Boussinesq equations

Boussinesq-type equations and mild-slope equations are compared in terms of their basic forms and characteristics. It is concluded that linear mild-slope equations on dispersion relation are better than non-linear Boussinesq equations. In addition, Berkhoffexperiments are computed and compared by the two models, and agreement between model results and available experimental data is found to be quite reasonable, which demonstrates the two models＇ capacity to simulate wave transformation. However they can deal with different physical processes respectively, and they have their own characteristics.     

A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

A note on linear dispersion and shoaling properties in extended Boussinesq equations

A set of optimum parameter α is obtained to evaluate the linear dispersion and shoaling properties in the extended Boussinesq equations of [Madsen and Sorensen, 1992 and Nwogu, 1993], and [Chen and Liu, 1995]. Optimum α values are determined to produce minimal errors in each wave property of phase velocity, group velocity, or shoaling coefficient relative to the analytical one given by the Stokes wave theory. Comparisons are made of the percent errors in phase velocity, group velocity, and shoaling coefficient produced by the Boussinesq equations with a different set of optimum α values. The case with a fixed value of α = −0.4 is also presented in the comparison. The comparisons reveal that the optimum α value tuned for a particular wave property gives in general poor results for other properties. Considering all the properties simultaneously, the fixed value of α = −0.4 may give overall accuracies in phase velocity and shoaling coefficient for all the types of Boussinesq equations selected in this study.     

On the Range of Validity and Accuracy of Boussinesq-Type Models

In this paper the range of validity and comparison of accuracy of three Boussinesq-type models (Madsen and Sφrensen, 1992; Nwogu, 1993; Wei et al., 1995; referred to as MS, NW and WKGS, respectively) are analyzed and discussed. The governing equations are extended to the second-order approximations to keep higher-order nonlinear terms. Two key parameters ε and μ representing wave nonlinear and frequency dispersive properties are used to demarcate the limit of applicability for these three models. The accuracy of predictions by each model is compared by the relative errors with and without hlgher-order nonlinear terms in Boussinesq equations. A numerical model is developed based on one-dimensional Boussinesq equations and applied to the case of waves propagating over a submerged bar. The performance and feasibility of each model are tested against laboratory data.     

高阶Boussinesq类方程数值求解及试验验证

基于二阶非线性与色散的Boussinesq类方程,采用改善的Crank-Nicolson方法对不同情况下淹没潜堤上的波浪传播进行数值模拟。高阶方程与传统、改进型的Boussinesq方程计算结果进行比较,高阶方程的计算结果与实验吻合得更好。表明该高阶Boussinesq方程能够精确预测变水深、强非线性的复杂波况,可用于实际近岸海域波浪问题的计算。     

One-dimensional numerical models of higher-order Boussinesq equations with high dispersion accuracy

Abstract-Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally andnumerically. The applicability of the wave propagation model of higher-order Boussinesq equations de-rived by Zou(2000, Ocean Engneering, 27, 557～575) is investigated. Physical experiments areconducted; three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set-up in the experimentand their effects on the wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of the numerical results withtest data are made and the higher-order Boussinesq equations agree well with the measurements since thedispersion of the model is of high accuracy. The numerical results show that the good results can also beobtained for the steep-slope cases although the mild-slope assumption is employed in the derivation of thehigher-order terms in the higher-order Boussinesq equations.