Detection of nonlinear waves and their contribution to ocean wave spectra Part II: Observation

This is a Part II of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. As shown in Part I, bound waves in deep sea are detectable by extracting secondorder Doppler spectra from the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio waves scattered from the sea surface. There is a remarkable agreement between the calculated and measured Doppler spectra, considering the noise levels in measured Doppler spectra and the uncertainties in directional properties. The theoretical expression for bound waves is thus verified. Furthermore, the upper limit in calculating the Doppler spectra for the second-order approximation is presented from field observations, although we cannot conclude that it is equivalent to the limitation of the second-order bound wave theory. It is shown that analysis of radio wave scattering by the sea surface is one useful means of understanding the nonlinear properties of ocean waves.     

Detection of ocean waves using satellite altimetry: Application to equatorial Kelvin waves

A new method for wave motion detection from satellite altimetric measurements of sea surface height is presented. The essence of the approach is to construct a two‐dimensional traveling‐wave Fourier series representation of the amplitude field within a prespecified oceanic region. The method employs an iterative, nonlinear least‐squares technique based on the Marquardt‐Levenberg algorithm to solve for model parameters describing characteristic features of the evolving wave system. The Marquardt‐Levenberg Fourier series (MLFS) algorithm was applied to Kelvin waves active during the 1986–1987 El Nino event in the equatorial Pacific ocean using GEOSAT Exact Repeat Mission altimetry data. Characteristics of the wave system were found to be in essential agreement with earlier field measurements and the observations of Cheney and Miller (1987) obtained using time series developed from GEOSAT data. The advantage of the present detection scheme lies in its speed and ability to determine a wave system's dispersion relation over a finite range of wavenumbers, and hence the group velocity of that system.     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves I. Individual wave spectra and similarity structure

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves have been studied by use of a wind-wave tunnel. The individual waves are defined by actual undulations of the water surface at any instant, and are characterized by concentrated shearing stress and strong vorticity at their crests. A conspicuous self-similarity structure is found in the individual wave field. The similarity manifests itself as a simple spectral form, and as the statistical 3/2-power law between nondimensional wave height and wave period, and further as the -1/2-power relationship between nondimensional phase speed and frequency, for waves of the high frequency side. The normalized energy spectrum, specially defined for individual waves, has a form practically equivalent to the traditional spectrum for component waves in the main frequency range from 0.7 to 1.5 in the frequency normalized by the peak frequency, but does not have secondary peaks at harmonics. The phase speed of individual waves also coincides with that of component waves in the main frequency range.     

Marine organisms and their contribution to organic matter in the ocean

The best estimates of marine biomass can be made for the algal component. Estimates of the biomass of small animals and bacteria both in the water column and the sediment remain beset with sampling and enumeration problems and, in the past, the contribution of the microfauna has often been ignored.Marine phytoplankton are the major source of organic matter in the oceans by means of photosynthesis but their contribution is not necessarily related to the size of the organism. In some instances the nanoplankton are the major contributors. Factors affecting distribution and production are discussed.The chemical composition of phytoplankton production and variation within it is less well understood. The amount, nature, variation, and mechanism of extracellular production, of algal spoliation during ingestion by herbivores, of algal autolysis and of herbivore excretory products is not well understood and neither is the relative contribution to the non-living “dissolved” and “particulate” organic carbon pools.     

Marine pipeline dynamic response to waves from directional wave spectra

A methodology has been developed to calculate the dynamic probabilistic movement and resulting stresses for marine pipelines subjected to storm waves. A directional wave spectrum is used with a Fourier series expansion to simulate short-crested waves and calculate their loads on the pipeline. The pipeline displacements resulting from these loads are solutions to the time-dependent beam-column equation which also includes the soil resistance as external loading. The statistics of the displacements for individual waves are combined with the wave statistics for a given period of time, e.g. pipeline lifetime, to generate probabilistic estimates for net pipeline movement. On the basis of displacements for specified probability levels the pipeline configuration is obtained from which pipeline stresses can be estimated using structural considerations, e.g. pipeline stiffness, end restraints, etc.     

海浪感应电磁场的理论计算

根据麦克斯韦电磁理论,在地磁场中运动的海水将产生感应电磁场。利用一个简单的数学物理模型对感应电磁场在海水内部的分布进行了计算,结果表明海浪产生的电磁场明显依赖于海浪波动的周期及浪高。在100 m的海水深度内,海浪产生的磁感应强度的大小为纳特数量级,而电场强度的大小为几个微伏每米。在同一海水深度处,磁感应强度随海水波动的周期呈现近线性变化,而电场强度的大小有一个极值,该极值随海水深度的增加向长周期方向移动。海浪产生的电磁场是影响海洋电磁探测数据精度的主要噪声之一。     

Measurement of ocean wave spectra using narrow-beam HE radar

A data interpretation algorithm is developed to extract ocean wave information from HF radar backscatter observed by a narrow-beam antenna system. The basis of this measurement is the inversion of the integral equation representing the second-order radar cross section of the ocean surface. This equation is numerically inverted by approximating it as a matrix equation and pseudoinverting the kernel matrix using a singular value decomposition. As a test of this algorithm, comparisons are made between wave spectrum estimates obtained from a WAVEC buoy and a pair of 25.4-MHz ground wave radars, using data collected during the 1986 Canadian Atlantic Storms Program (CASP). Overall, the results of this experiment have been positive and have demonstrated both the basic feasibility of the inversion algorithm and the wave sensing capability of HF radar. For example, significant wave height estimates deduced by two radars differed from the buoy, in an absolute value sense, by only 0.12 m on average. When using only one radar, the mean difference of this important parameter from the buoy was a reasonable 0.33 m     

Analysis of ocean color spectra (I)

By using the two-flow optical model, the variation in the irradiance reflectance of the ocean just below the surface has been calculated for varying water optical properties, for the interpretation of remotely-sensed ocean color data. The input variables used in our model are the concentration of phytoplankton (chlorophyll-a), the absorption coeffiicient of yellow substance, the particle scattering coefficient, the ratio of the back-scattering coefficient to the total scattering coefficient of particles, and the ratio of the absorption to scattering coefficients for particles.The irradiance reflectance increases monotonically with the ratio of the back-scattering coefficient to the total scattering coefficient. Spectral changes occur in the irradiance reflectance for increases in chlorophyll-a concentration and yellow substance as well as the ratio of the absorption to scattering coefficients.Because slightly different mathematical expressions have been derived by other investigators using the two-flow model, an evaluation of the resulting calculation differences is presented and discussed.     

Measurement of ocean wave spectra using a ship-mounted HF radar

The work describes an inversion algorithm for HF radar measurement of nondirectional wave spectra using an omnidirectional receive/transmit antenna. Such a radar would be suitable for deployment on a stationary ship or drill rig. In this approach, wave information is extracted from the radar observations by numerically inverting the integral equation representing the backscatter return from the ocean. Test results of this technique applied to data collected using a 25.4-MHz radar installed on a ship have been very positive. For the two measurements collected, there is a high degree of correlation between the radar wave estimates and those of a WAVE-TRACK buoy     

Investigation of nonlinear interactions in ocean swell waves usingthe reduced bispectrum

In this paper, a two-dimensional (2-D) reduced bicoherence function which can be calculated via the reduced bispectrum is introduced. The statistical and computational aspects of the 2-D reduced bicoherence function are compared with those of the conventional bicoherence function. It is shown that the proposed technique is less noise-sensitive than the conventional bicoherence estimate. The use of the 2-D reduced bicoherence function to investigate nonlinear interactions in ocean swell waves is also demonstrated. As the 2-D reduced bicoherence can be efficiently calculated, it is proposed to use this novel technique in oceanographic field experiments that require real-time data processing and interpretation     

赤道大洋驻波异常及其年际变化的理论分析

本文采用赤道β平面近似下的线性化正压扰动方程组,引入约化重力加速度后,得到了赤道驻波异常的解析解,给出了此解的计算结果,并与实际热带太平洋和印度洋流场异常复EOF分析的模态做了比较,得到以下主要结论：赤道驻波异常的模态1,其流场异常在整个大洋为半波,呈一致的纬向流;流场异常在热带大洋中部最大,并向赤道南北两侧迅速衰减,其被限制在赤道两侧约2º的范围内。赤道驻波的模态2,其流场异常在整个大洋为1波,在大洋东、西部纬向流的流动方向相反,流场异常向赤道南北两侧衰减的程度同模态1。赤道驻波异常分别满足南北走向的东、西海岸边条件。决定赤道驻波异常在赤道两侧衰减程度的系数,其仅与约化重力加速度和上层海水标准深度之乘积的平方根值成反比;当该值取得相同时该衰减程度也相同。赤道驻波异常的振荡频率与模态序号及上述平方根值成正比,与热带大洋宽度成反比;模态序号越低,该宽度越大,则该频率越低,相应振荡周期也越长;模态1的振荡周期最长。当取各参数为典型值,并取模态序号为1,再分别取热带太平洋和印度洋的宽度时,对赤道驻波异常计算的结果表明,其与实际相应海洋上层流场异常复EOF分析中得到的第一模态空间分布和年际变化相一致;这意味着此复EOF分析第一模态的本质是赤道驻波异常,这也表明该驻波异常在实际大洋中确实存在,并推断该驻波异常是ENSO和印度洋偶极子的形成机制之一。     

Generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume

A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.     

Low-temperature alteration of oceanic island basalts and their contribution to transition metal circulation of the ocean

The major elements, rare earth elements （REE） and trace elements of four basalt samples from central and western Pacific ferro- manganese crust provinces have been analyzed using chemical methods and ICP - MS, respectively. The results indicate that the samples have been extensively altered and that the contents of their major elements have changed significantly. However, the similarity of REE partition patterns and trace element contents of basalt samples to those of fresh oceanic island basalts （OIB） indicate that the basalt samples originated as OIB. Because of low-temperature alteration, the contents of A1203 , Fe203 , MnO, K20 and P205 increased, while MgO and FeO decreased. Active components, such as magnesium and iron, were leached from OIB resulting in the relative enrichment of SiO2. The leaching of active components can cause the relative enrichment of REE, while the precipitation of LREE-rich ferromanganese oxides in vesicles and fissures not only causes an increase of REE contents, but also induces ＂fractionation＂ of LREE and HREE. Based on the enrichment mechanism of REE contents, the theoretical quantities of precipitated ferromanganese oxides and the depleted quantities of active components are calculated ： the depleted quantities of active components for the unit mass of fresh basalts vary in the range of 0.15 ～ 0. 657, and the precipitated quantities of ferromanganese oxides for the unit mass of fresh basahs vary in the range of 0. 006 ～ 0. 042. Of the major elements, the two most depleted are iron, and magnesium, with 18.28% ～ 70.95% of iron and 44.50% ～ 93.94% of magnesium in the fresh basalts was leached out. Theoretical calculation and geochemistry results both indicate that low-temperature alteration of basalts can supply abundant amount of metals to seawater, and may play an important role in ocean metal circulation.     

大洋岛屿玄武岩低温蚀变作用及其对大洋过渡金属循环的贡献

用化学方法和ICP-MS方法分别对中、西太平洋海山富钴铁锰结壳产出区玄武岩的主元素、微量元素和稀土元素(REE)含量进行了测定,结果表明,研究区玄武岩经受了强烈的洋底低温蚀变作用,主元素成分发生了明显的变化,失去了原岩的特征.样品与新鲜大洋岛屿玄武岩(OIB)极为相似的稀土元素配分模式和微量元素含量特征表明,所研究的岩石属典型的大洋板内玄武岩.受洋底低温蚀变作用的影响,样品的Al₂O₃,Fe₂O₃,MnO、K₂O,P₂O₅含量增加,MgO,FeO的含量降低.蚀变作用使大洋岛屿玄武岩中的镁、铁等活动组分大量流失,从而表现出相对富SiO₂的特征(标准矿物计算结果中出现石英).由于蚀变作用,活动组分的流失使样品的REE相对富集,而富REE铁锰氧化物在玄武岩气孔和裂隙中的沉淀不仅使样品的REE含量增大,而且引起轻稀土元素(LREE)与重稀土元素(HREE)分馏,表现为∑c(Ce)/∑c(Yb)值增大.以REE富集机制为基础,对样品中铁锰氧化物的沉淀量和单位质量新鲜玄武岩中活动组分的流失量进行了理论计算,结果表明,因低温蚀变作用所引起的新鲜玄武岩的单位质量亏损为0.150~0.657,而单位质量新鲜玄武岩中铁锰氧化物的沉淀量为0.006~0.042.主元素中以铁、镁的流失亏损最为明显,新鲜玄武岩中铁、镁的流失比例分别为18.28%~70.95%和44.50%~93.94%,超过了岩石总量的流失亏损比例(15.0%~65.7%),因而样品相对贫铁、镁.其他元素的流失量和流失比例都很好地印证了地球化学研究的结果.样品中铝、钾、磷负的流失量是由于沸石在岩石气孔中的充填和岩石的磷酸盐化.理论计算结果和地球化学研究都表明,大洋岛屿玄武岩的低温蚀变向海水提供了大量金属,这是大洋海水中金属循环的重要环节.     

Nolinear waves and their barotropic stability in the tropical ocean and atmosphere

In this paper, the nonlinear waves and their barotropic stability in the tropical ocean and atmosphere are studied with the qualitative theory of the ordinary differential equation. The relationship is derived between the stability of nonlinear waves with different frequencies and the basic currents and their horizontal shear in the tropical ocean and atmosphere.     

星载雷达波谱仪反演海浪谱的精度研究

介绍了星载雷达波谱仪的观测原理及误差分析模型,并在Hauser等提出的SWI M(sea wave investigation and monitoring by satellite)的基础上分析了波谱仪反演海浪谱的波长分辨率和角度分辨率。为了减小反演调制谱的波动,在数据处理过程中时域和波数域相邻单元的平均个数分别为10和8个。系统在不同的模式下工作,为了获取20°的角度分辨率,对调制谱平均次数分别取3次(模式1)、7次(模式2)、10次(模式3)。使用解析法和仿真法分析了SWI M工作在模式2时海浪谱观测的能量误差,两种方法的结果一致。对于给定的海浪条件,能量误差小于20%。     

Linear and nonlinear irregular waves and forces in a numerical wave tank

A time-domain higher-order boundary element scheme was utilized to simulate the linear and nonlinear irregular waves and diffractions due to a structure. Upon the second-order irregular waves with four Airy wave components being fed through the inflow boundary, the fully nonlinear boundary problem was solved in a time-marching scheme. The open boundary was modeled by combining an absorbing beach and the stretching technique. The proposed numerical scheme was verified by simulating the linear regular and irregular waves. The scheme was further applied to compute the linear and nonlinear irregular wave diffraction forces acting on a vertical truncated circular cylinder. The nonlinear results were also verified by checking the accuracy of the nonlinear simulation.     

Continental shelf waves off the fukushima coast Part I: Observations

Current records obtained in the inshore region along the Fukushima coast are analyzed. The existence of periodical current fluctuations whose period is about 100 hours and whose amplitude is as large as 15–25cm s^–1 is recognized. Auto-spectral analyses are made also for sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind records. Each spectrum has significant peaks at the similar period to the current spectrum. The wind spectrum has a broad peak compared with the current. The periodical current fluctuations propagate southward with speed of 3–5 km h^–1. These propagation speeds seem to correspond to those of the second-and third-mode shelf waves.