Erosion problems in Alexandroupolis coastline,North-Eastern Greece

This paper deals with the coastal erosion processes and the related problems around the city of Alexandroupolis, NE Aegean Sea, N. Greece. The area is very fast developing, as the city is an important port and a summer resort center in SE Balkans, and will become soon a transportation and energy center, as well. The coastline under study exhibits an east–west orientation and has a length of more than 50 km. The spatial distribution and the characteristics of the changes in the shoreline were studied by comparing old and new air photographs and topographic maps, as well as through repeated series of field observations and local measurements regarding the erosion process. From these studies it was concluded that the greater stretch of the western part of the coast, under consideration, is of moderate to high relief, with a considerable participation of coastal cliffs. It consists of conglomerates of varying granulometry and consistency and is under moderate to severe erosion process. The erosion phenomena in the western part of the coast may be attributed, primarily, to strong S, SW winds, blowing in the area and to trapping of sediments by Alexandroupolis’ port breakwaters; the port stops or/and diverts the sediments to the open sea; and to the east to west longshore sea current, prevailing in the area. The eastern stretch of the coast is a plain area, formed by sandy–silty sediments; being a part of the river Evros’ Delta, it is under deposition and accretes seawards. The majority of the coasts under consideration are classified as coasts of high wave energy potential. Hard structures, as shore protection measures, have been constructed in some places, but they were proved, in rather short time-period, ineffective and suffered extensive failures. Thus, it is argued that for a long-term cost-effective tackling of the various erosion problems on any stretch, priority must be given to soft engineering measures; although, certain hard measures, carefully selected and locally implemented, can contribute to forming a rational combination of protection/mitigation measures. Besides, the development pressures in the coastal zone have to be confronted, in a sustainable way, through new integrated coast management regulations.     

Beach and nearshore morphodynamic changes of the Tabarka coast,Northwest of Tunisia

Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics.     

Lateglacial climate change and coastal evolution in western Jura,Scottish Inner Hebrides

The geomorphic and sedimentological evidence for former sea-level changes in the exposed coastline of western Jura shows a clear coastal response to past changes in climate. In particular the rapid and high-magnitude climate changes associated with the onset and termination of the Younger Dryas appear to have been accompanied by major changes in coastal response. In western Jura, the temperate climate of the Lateglacial Interstadial was associated with beach-ridge deposition, with the earlier part of this period being associated with larger ridges than the latter. By contrast, the cold climate during the Younger Dryas appears to have been dominated by frost processes, sea-ice development and rapid rates of coastal erosion of bedrock. Cold-climate shore erosion of bedrock appears to have ended suddenly at the close of the Younger Dryas.     

An approximation to short-term evolution and sediment transport pathways along the littoral of Cadiz Bay (SW Spain)

This work presents the results of a beach-monitoring program carried out in the Bay of Cadiz (SW Spain), which consists of urban, natural and nourished beaches. In the present study, 24 topographic profiles have been monthly monitored during the 1996–1998 period, in order to draw the morphodynamic behavior of this coast and the general characterization of short-term coastal trends. This way, total volumetric budgets have been calculated for each beach profile in order to group beaches in different erosive/accreting sectors. Studied beaches recorded both erosion and accretion: the greatest accretionary trends have been observed at Aguadulce, La Costilla and Rota beaches, with values ranging from 30 to 70 m³/m. The largest erosion episodes have been recorded in the southernmost end of Valdelagrana spit, with values over 50 m³/m, and in Rota and Vistahermosa, after nourishment works. Main erosion and accretion pathways have been related to the existence of natural and human structures, which blocked the longshore drift suggesting the existence of littoral cells.     

Coastal morphology and beach stability along Thiruvananthapuram,south-west coast of India

Shoreline changes are largely dependent on coastal morphology. South-west coast of India is a high energy coast characterised by monsoon high waves, steep beach face and medium-sized beach sand. Waves are generally from west and west south-west during rough monsoon season and from south-west during fair weather season. Shoreline change along this coast is studied with reference to coastal morphological features. Various morphological features, modifications and chronological positions of shoreline are analysed with the information derived from multidated satellite imageries, toposheets and GPS shoreline mapping along with extended field survey. Image processing and GIS techniques have been used for the analysis of data and presentation of results. Sediment accumulation on the leeward side of artificial structures such as harbour breakwaters and groynes is used as a sediment transport indicator. Artificial structures such as seawalls, groynes and harbour breakwaters modify morphology. Shoreline south of headlands/promontories and breakwaters are stable or accreting due to net northerly longshore sediment transport while erosion tendency is observed on the north side. Lateritic cliffs fronting the sea or with seasonal beach undergo slumping and cliff edge retreat as episodic events. Spits adjoining tidal inlets are prone to shoreline variations due to oscillations of inlet mouth. Interventions in the form of inlet stabilization and construction of coastal protection structures trigger erosion along adjoining coasts. Seawalls constructed along highly eroding coasts get damaged, whereas those constructed along monsoon berm crest with frontal beaches for protection against monsoon wave attack are retained. Fishing gaps within seawalls are areas of severe temporary erosion during rough monsoon season. Accretion or erosion accompanies construction of harbour breakwaters in a stable coastal plain. Close dependence of shoreline changes on morphology necessitates detailed understanding of impacts on morphology prior to introducing any intervention in the coastal zone.     

Sea erosion at Ada Foah: assessment of impacts and proposed mitigation measures

Sea erosion is a serious threat to life and property in coastal towns. The coastline of Ada Foah has been facing sea erosion and occasional flooding for several decades. This research investigated the socio-economic and environmental impacts of these geomorphic processes using social survey methods of data collection and shoreline change analysis. The main research tools used include questionnaire survey, interviews and Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) 4.2 software using extracted shorelines of 1926 ground survey sheet and 2008 Landsat ETM+ image to determine shoreline change between the periods. The research identified some environmental and socio-economic impacts of the sea erosion on the coastal community, and these include the destruction of coastal ecosystems and infrastructure such as offices of institutions, school blocks and roads. The ramifications of these problems include homelessness, unemployment and poverty, which compel victims to migrate. Results of shoreline change analysis indicate that, the Ada Foah shoreline has been receding since 1926 to date with a mean change in shoreline of 280.49?m and an average annual rate of 3.46?m/year. To protect the coastline from the battering sea, a sea defence project, comprising sand nourishment and the construction of groynes, is being undertaken.     

A field quantification of coastal dune perennial plants as indicators of surface stability, erosion or deposition

Dune plants both modify the wind field around them and are impacted by various stress factors, among them sand erosion and sand deposition. As coastal dunes are being either stabilized or remobilized, in response to the changes in the rates of sand and dune movement, the vegetation cover and composition are expected to vary reflecting the differences in the sedimentary conditions. In this field study 315 quadrats of 100 m², in which the perennial plant species were sampled, were analysed with respect to annual rates of sand erosion and deposition that were measured using erosion pins. A visual exploratory data analysis was introduced, based on selective filtering of samples according to their vegetation cover. This method, combined with established statistical tools, enabled the authors to uncover the inclination and indicative power of nine perennial dune plants to either a stabilized or a mobile environment, and to establish whether they are more prevalent in places undergoing sand erosion or sand burial. Two species were found to be clear indicators of a stabilized environment, Stipagrostis lanata , and Retama raetam . Of the species indicating a mobile environment, only one may be stated as a clear indicator of sand erosion: Silene succulenta , with Cyperus macrorrhizus coming close to being an indicator of a less mobile erosive environment. The best indicator species for sand burial was found to be, as expected, Ammophila arenaria , with Artemisia monosperma also indicating high rates of sand mobility especially when its relative cover is higher than 80%. Such information can be used to monitor natural processes of dune stabilization or reactivation, or to assess the success of a management plan that aims at stabilizing a dune, or at remobilizing it by removing vegetation.     

Rapid erosion of the coast of Sagar island, West Bengal - India

The coastal zone of the Sagar island has been studied. The island has been subjected to erosion by natural processes and to a little extent by anthropogenic activities over a long period. Major landforms identified in the coastal area of the Sagar island are the mud flats/salt marshes, sandy beaches/dunes and mangroves. The foreshore sediments are characterized by silty, slightly sandy mud, slightly silty sand and silty sand. Samples 500 m inland from high waterline are silty slightly sandy mud, and by clayey slightly sandy mud. The extent of coastline changes are made by comparing the topographic maps of 1967 and satellite imageries of 1996, 1998 and 1999. Between 1967 and 1999 about 29.8 km² of the island has been eroded and the accreted area is only 6.03 km². Between 1996 and 1998 the area underwent erosion of 13.64 km² while accretion was 0.48 km². From 1998 to 1999, 3.26 km² additional area was eroded with meager accretion. Erosion from 1997 to 1999 was estimated at 0.74 km² /year; however, from 1996 to 1999, the erosion rate was calculated as 5.47 km²/year. The areas severely affected by erosion are the northeastern, southwestern and southeastern faces of the island. As a consequence of coastal erosion, the mud flats/salt marshes, sandy beaches/dunes and mangroves have been eroded considerably. Deposition is experienced mainly on the western and southern part of the island. The island is built primarily by silt and clay, which can more easily be eroded by the waves, tides and cyclonic activities than a sandy coast. Historic sea level rises accompanied by land subsidence lead to differing rates of erosion at several pockets, thus periodically establishing new erosion planes.     

Short and medium-term coastal evolution of Necochea Municipality, Buenos Aires province, Argentina

The short and medium-term coastal evolution of Necochea Municipality, Buenos Aires province (Argentina) was studied. The medium-term evolution study was based on aerial photographs from 1967 and 1984, and satellite images from 2004, using the dune or cliff toe as coastline indicator. The short-term evolution was studied from February 2006 to December 2009 by means of seasonal beach profiles and sediment sampling. Results showed that in the medium-term at Necochea, the coastline has remained stable or has advanced. Whereas in the short-term, the analysis has evidenced incipient erosion processes. On the other hand, at Quequén the retreat of the coastline and the negative sedimentary balances (medium and short-term) are clearly indicating an accentuated erosion process. The different degrees of coastal erosion are related in part to beach vulnerability to wave storms but mainly to anthropogenic actions, which have affected the beach sediment supply. These results evidence the necessity to develop a coastal management programme.     

Coastal processes and environmental hazards: the Buenos Aires (Argentina) and Venetian (Italy) littorals

The Buenos Aires (Argentina) and Venice (Italy) coastlands have experienced significant saltwater contamination of the phreatic aquifer, coastal erosion, hydrodynamic changes and relative sea level rise processes due to natural and man-induced factors. These factors expose coastal areas to morpho-hydro-geological hazards, such as soil desertification, frequency and degree of flooding, littoral erosion, and the silting of river mouths and channels. Man-made interventions and actions, such as beach mining, construction of coastal structures and exploitation of aquifers without an adequate knowledge of the hydrology setting and an adequate management program, worsen these natural hazards. Uncontrolled human activity induces environmental damage to the overall coastal plains. The coastal plains play an important role in the social/economic development of the two regions based on land use, such as agriculture, horticulture, breeding, and tourism, as well as industry. Results of investigations on saltwater contamination, sea level rise and morphological changes recently performed in these two coastal areas are presented here.     

Environmental impacts of Baltim and Ras El Bar shore-parallel breakwater systems on the Nile delta littoral zone,Egypt

This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems.     

Coastal hazard mapping in the Cuddalore region, South India

It is estimated that nearly one-third of India’s population lives on the coast and is dependent on its resources. Shoreline erosion, storm surges and extreme events have resulted in severe loss of human life, damage to ecosystems and to property along the coast of India. Studies carried out in the Cuddalore region of South India reveal that this low-lying coastal zone, which suffered significant erosion during the last century, has been severely affected by the tsunami of 2004, storm floods and cyclones. In response to these impacts, a variety of coastal defense measures and adaptation strategies have been implemented in the region, although with only limited success. In order to inform future coastal planning in this region, the work reported here identifies a composite hazard line, seaward of which coastal flooding events will have a return interval of less than 1 in 100 years. The area landward of the coastal hazard line will be unaffected by 100 years of coastal erosion at present day rates. The study directly supports the Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) Plan of the Tamil Nadu State through the identification and assessment of coastal hazards and the overall vulnerability to coastal flooding and erosion. The key results from this pilot study will be used directly by the State of Tamil Nadu in the protection of the coastal livelihoods, better conservation measures and sustainable development along the coast. This study is a step toward mapping the hazard line for the entire coast of India that helps protect human lives and property.     

Early stages of till genesis: an example from Fanore, County Clare, Ireland

Traditional views of glacigenic processes focus on erosion of hard bedrock and deposition of unconsolidated till. In the 1960s and 1970s attention was directed towards the glacier debris cascade, which linked these two end members. A limited understanding of the relationship between bedrock character, the supposed processes of erosion, debris comminution and texture emerged. In the 1980s researchers began to appreciate the important role which glaciotectonism plays in the spectrum of glacigenic processes, although little attention has been paid to the interface between glacial erosion, glaciotectonism and the early stages of the debris cascade system. A coastal section at Fanore, County Clare, Ireland affords a unique opportunity to examine a range of glacial deposits which represent a series in the erosion, tectonism and comminution stages of till genesis. Major elements of the site are bedrock rafts, glaciotectonic breecias, immature till and mature till. In all cases > 98% of the elements comprise Carboniferous limestone. Research at Fanore has focused on textural properties. Analysis of bulk samples of the sediments demonstrates a continuum of textural development from the glaciotectonism of the bedrock (breecia production and bedrock raft comminution) to a homogenized but immature till and to a more mature matrix-dominated deposit.     

河北省海岸侵蚀动态及成因机制研究

河北省沙质岸滩存在海岸侵蚀现象,对沙滩旅游、海滩工程建设造成严重威胁,制约河北省海洋经济社会发展。海岸侵蚀监测结果显示,区域海滩滩面受波浪、潮流影响较大,时冲时淤,摆动频繁,沙质岸滩整体处于侵蚀状态,各区段蚀淤情况有所差异,高潮线以上有所淤高,海滩坡度开始变陡,呈下蚀状态。海岸侵蚀灾害已引起沙滩沙质粗化、滩肩变窄、滩坡变陡及基岩裸露比率增多等问题。针对这一突出问题,通过定点测量与遥感监测相结合的方式,研究了河北省海岸线动态演变特征,经计算,河北省各侵蚀岸段海岸侵蚀速率达1.0~4.0m/a,单宽体积侵蚀量-1.42~-19.08m~3/m·a。综合分析显示,人类海岸工程建设、区域海洋水文条件及输砂量减少,是河北省发生海岸侵蚀发生的主要原因。     

Vulnerability and fate of a coastal sand dune complex,Rosetta-Idku,northwestern Nile Delta,Egypt

Types, distribution, and origin of recent sand dunes between Rosetta and Idku, in the western sector of the Nile Delta, Egypt were investigated. Sand samples from the dunes, beach, and seafloor were studied for grain size distribution and mineralogical composition. It has been found that most of the dunes in the study area have been subjected to deterioration and removal due to the construction of buildings and the International Coastal Highway. The remnant constitutes a damaged belt of foredunes that extends from El Bouseily village to the west of Idku town. The dune’s origin is interpreted to be the result of coastal drifting and the subsequent transport of sediments of the former Canopic Nile branch eastward by the predominant longshore current and by aeolian processes. The blown sand grains accumulated to form a belt of coastal sand dunes of original longitudinal and crescentic forms. Urbanization of the coast has severely altered the landscape. The study area is considered vulnerable to the impacts of climate change and the expected rise in sea level. The outcome of potential sea level rise is serious; erosion problems are expected to be exacerbated and vast areas from land and property would be lost. Thus, protection and preservation the remaining dunes in the study area are vital requirements for shore protection.     

Short contribution: Marine erosion and archaeological landscapes: A case study of stone forts at cliff‐top locations in the Aran Islands,Ireland

Two massively constructed stone forts exist on the edge of vertical coastal cliffs on the Aran Islands, Ireland. One of these, Dun Aonghusa, contains evidence of occupation that predates the main construction phases of the walls and broadly spans a time interval of 3300–2800 yr B.P. The other fort, Dun Duchathair, has been termed a promontory fort because its remaining wall crosses the neck of a small promontory marginal to the cliffs. Estimates of past rates of marine erosion in this part of Ireland may be made both by analogy with studies in other areas and comparison with present day rates of marine erosion. A working model for erosion rates of approximately 0.4 m of coastal recession per annum is suggested. By applying this rate to the cliffs of the Aran Islands, it can be shown that, assuming a construction date of approximately 2500 yr B.P. for these forts, they were originally built at a considerable distance from the coastline. Thus Dun Duchathair was not a promontory fort. The earliest recorded habitation at Dun Aonghusa, dated to the middle of the Bronze Age, was, therefore, at some distance inland and not on an exposed 70 m high cliff on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. © 2004 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.     

Effects of the Santa Cruz harbor on coastal processes of northern Monterey Bay,California

An average of 230,000 cubic meters of sand is provided to the beaches of northern Monterey Bay each year by littoral transport from upcoast and from local river input. Two jetties constructed as part of a small craft harbor interrupted the littoral flow of sand and significantly altered the area's natural coastal processes. A wide protective beach immediately formed upcoast against a formerly retreating beach cliff. Sand now filling the harbor mouth each winter has led to expensive yearly dredging as well as seasonally or permanently depleted downcoast beaches. Seacliff retreat, always a problem in the area, is caused primarily by surf attack of weaker stratigraphic units and erosion along joint sets and faults, causing collapse of the bluffs. The seasonal loss of protective beaches has led to a two- to three-fold increase in the rate of downcoast cliff retreat following harbor construction except where protective rip-rap has been emplaced by property owners.     

Vulnerability assessment of a retreating coast in SW Spain

The present study assesses coastal vulnerability to erosion processes along a 23-km-long coastal sector that presents different morphological features and grades of human occupation. Seven photogrammetric flights, at different scales, were used for reconstructing the coastal evolution from 1956 to 2001. Several sources were compiled to assess human activities and land uses in the coastal zones that were mapped and divided into four different types. As a further step, coastal vulnerability to erosion was assessed combining the potential coastal retreat with land-use type. More than one third of the studied coast presents a very high–medium risk level and many human structures and activities at Sanlúcar village and La Ballena beach will be threatened by erosional processes in the near future.     

胶州湾滨海湿地的景观格局变化及环境效应

在湿地景观类型分类基础上,利用RS及GIS技术提取了1986、1995和2010年胶州湾滨海湿地的Landsat卫星假彩色合成影像的空间属性数据,利用斑块动态度、斑块密度指数、景观多样性指数、斑块破碎化指数研究了胶州湾滨海湿地的景观格局变化及累积环境效应。结果表明,1986～2010年胶州湾滨海湿地总面积减少,河流与河口湿地面积稍有增大,潮间带滩涂和潮上带湿地面积和斑块数减小;养殖池面积增大、斑块数增多,盐田面积减小、斑块数基本未变,增加了湿地公园这种新的人工湿地景观类型。期间,湿地的景观斑块密度指数、多样性指数和景观斑块破碎化指数增大了。上述湿地面积和景观格局变化是由围垦、城市化、港口和道路建设、河流径流量和输沙量减少、海岸侵蚀、海水入侵、全球变暖、海面上升等因素引起的,并导致湿地生物多样化水平下降、有害植物入侵、环境净化功能降低、污染和赤潮灾害加重、植被退化演替、渔业资源衰退和湿地生态系统服务价值降低等累积环境效应。为减轻这些不利的累积环境效应,应采取建设湿地自然保护区、控制养殖池和盐田规模、发展工业循环经济和生态农业等措施保护胶州湾滨海湿地。