Elimination of Wind Wave Effects on Sub-Bottom Profiler Record

With the presence of wind waves, the swaying of survey vessel may effect the quality of sub-bottom profiler records and, therefore, it is necessary to correct the distortions induced by wave action. A major issue is to distinguish wind wave effect and real bedforms such as sand waves. In this paper, a bandstop filter is designed according to the frequency features of wind wave effect to treat the distortion of seabed topography by wind waves. The technique is used to correct the sub-bottom profile in order to eliminate the wave-induced distortions for the sub-bottom profile records from the Yangtze Estuary. This study shows that the undulate seabed record is resulted from wave action, rather than the presence of sand waves, and the filtration technique helps to eliminate the wave effect and recover the real morphology of seabed and the sediment sequence underneath. In addition, a method for data processing is proposed for the case that the record indeed represents a combination of wave effects and real bedforms.     

台湾海峡南部海底地形的新发现

我们于1975年对台湾海峡南部进行海底地形和底质调查研究时发现:1.台湾浅滩发育着水下沙丘群。2.陆架地形受现代环境的作用,正经历着冲刷、侵蚀和堆积的再改造过程。3.陆架边缘曾发生了巨大的滑坡。其原因是陆源物质供应严重缺乏,在风浪和各种流系作用下,使沉积物不断进行分异作用,再加上自1938年以来多次发生5—7级海底地震而导致滑坡,滑坡又促使沉积物向深水搬运,加速陆架地形的冲刷。     

Experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action

The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, −0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action.     

A coupled model of submerged vegetation under oscillatory flow using Navier–Stokes equations

This work presents a new model for wave and submerged vegetation which couples the flow motion with the plant deformation. The IH-2VOF model is extended to solve the Reynolds Average Navier–Stokes equations including the presence of a vegetation field by means of a drag force. Turbulence is modeled using a k–ε equation which takes into account the effect of vegetation by an approximation of dispersive fluxes using the drag force produce by the plant. The plant motion is solved accounting for inertia, damping, restoring, gravitational, Froude–Krylov and hydrodynamic mass forces. The resulting model is validated with small and large-scale experiments with a high degree of accuracy for both no swaying and swaying plants. Two new formulations of the drag coefficient are provided extending the range of applicability of existing formulae to lower Reynolds number.     

Experimental study on strong interaction between regular waves and wind waves—I

The interaction between mechanically generated regular waves and wind waves is experimentally investigated in a wind-wave tunnel. It is shown that the growth process of regular waves is divided into the four distinct stages as follows: (1) almost independent coexistence of wind waves and regular waves, (2) attenuation of wind waves with simultaneous growth of regular waves, (3) rapid growth of regular waves after disappearance of wind waves, and (4) transition of regular waves to wind waves after the wave breaking. At the second stage there is an apparent relation between the attenuation of wind waves and the growth of regular waves. This fact suggests that there is some strong nonlinear interactions which transfers energy effectively from wind waves to regular waves.     

风浪流中涡激共振对Spar型浮式风机运动响应的影响

以Spar型浮式风机为研究对象,研究涡激力对于浮式风机系统运动的影响。对多体动力学软件FAST进行二次开发,加入涡激力的计算接口,实现了在平台涡激、波激、空气动力载荷及系泊联合作用下的Spar浮式风机系统的运动响应的计算。计算了在风、浪、流联合作用下,频率锁定现象发生时,Spar基础的运动响应,分析了风浪下Spar风机运动响应的涡激运动特性,并研究了不同的入流角度的影响。结果表明:考虑涡激力后,Spar基础的横荡运动明显增大;风浪流同向时,风浪的存在会抑制流载荷引起的横荡在涡泄频率的运动;在流与风浪垂直时,会激发Spar基础的更大的纵荡运动响应。     

Wave interaction with a submarine pipeline in clayey soil due to random waves

The wave pressure and uplift force due to random waves on a submarine pipeline (resting on bed, partially buried and fully buried) in clayey soil are measured. The influence of various parameters viz., wave period, wave height, water depth, burial depth and consistency index of the soil on wave pressures around and uplift force on the submarine pipeline was investigated. The wave pressures were measured at three locations around the submarine pipeline (each at 120° to the adjacent one). It is found that the wave pressure and uplift force spectrum at high consistency index of the soil is smaller compared to that of low consistency index. Just burying the pipeline (e/D=1.0) in clayey soil reduces the uplift force to less than 60% of the force experienced by a pipeline resting on the seabed (e/D=0.0) for I_c=0.33.     

Prediction of hydrodynamic forces on submarine pipelines using an improved Wake II Model

The hydrodynamic force model for prediction of forces on submarine pipelines as described includes flow history effect (wake effects) and time dependence in the force coefficients. The wake velocity correction is derived by using a closed-form solution to the linearized Navier–Stokes equations for oscillatory flow. This is achieved by assuming that the eddy viscosity in the wake is only time dependent and of a harmonic sinusoidal form. The forces predicted by the new Wake (Wake II) Model have been compared to Exxon Production Research Company Wake Model in terms of time histories (force shape) and magnitudes of peak forces. Overall, the model predictions by the Wake II Model are satisfactory and represent a substantial improvement over the predictions of the conventional models. The conventional force models representing adaptations of Morison's equation with ambient velocity and constant coefficients give predictions that are in poor agreement with the measurements especially for the lift force component. The Wake II Force Model can be used for submarine pipeline on-bottom stability design calculations for regular waves with various pipe diameters.     

Prediction of hydrodynamic forces on submarine pipelines using an improved Wake II Model

The hydrodynamic force model for prediction of forces on submarine pipelines as described includes flow history effect (wake effects) and time dependence in the force coefficients. The wake velocity correction is derived by using a closed-form solution to the linearized Navier–Stokes equations for oscillatory flow. This is achieved by assuming that the eddy viscosity in the wake is only time dependent and of a harmonic sinusoidal form. The forces predicted by the new Wake (Wake II) Model have been compared to Exxon Production Research Company Wake Model in terms of time histories (force shape) and magnitudes of peak forces. Overall, the model predictions by the Wake II Model are satisfactory and represent a substantial improvement over the predictions of the conventional models. The conventional force models representing adaptations of Morison's equation with ambient velocity and constant coefficients give predictions that are in poor agreement with the measurements especially for the lift force component. The Wake II Force Model can be used for submarine pipeline on-bottom stability design calculations for regular waves with various pipe diameters.     

Wave forces on submarine pipelines near a plane boundary

Forces induced by regular waves on submarine pipelines resting on as well as near a plane boundary and aligned parallel to wave fronts of the oncoming waves are investigated experimentally. The inline hydrodynamic coefficients of drag and inertia are evaluated through the use of Morison equation and the least squares method. The transverse force is analysed in terms of maximum transverse force and transverse root mean square (r.m.s.) coefficients. The resulting inline and transverse hydrodynamic coefficients are correlated with the period parameter or Keulegan-Carpenter number and relative clearance of the pipeline from the plane boundary. The effect of depth parameter on these coefficients and the correlation between maximum transverse force and transverse r.m.s. coefficients are also reported.     

基于现场实测数据的半潜式平台运动响应分析和极值预测研究

浮式平台承受风浪流等多种海洋环境载荷作用,呈现出复杂的运动学响应状态.通过对"南海挑战号"半潜式平台的实测六自由度响应数据进行分析,采用广义极值分布建立六自由度响应的概率密度和分布模型,并通过K-S(Kolmogorov-Smirnov)检验验证了分布模型的合理性,进而开展了对该平台多年一遇重现期的六自由度响应极值预测研究.通过与平台的初始设计指标进行对比,发现平台的横荡、纵荡等五个自由度表现良好,而垂荡的响应极值超出设计指标,在现场作业中应予以注意研究成果对平台的安全作业具有辅助指导意义,可将预测结果作为极端恶劣海况下,人员提前撤离的辅助决策支持.通过更新平台的监测数据进行极值分析和预测研究可评估平台的性能变化行为.     

Wave-induced uplift force on a submarine pipeline buried in a compressible seabed

A two-dimensional finite-element simulation of the wave-induced hydrodynamic uplift force acting on a submarine pipeline buried in sandy seabed sediments subject to continuous loading of sinusoidal surface waves is presented. Neglecting inertia forces, a linear-elastic stress-strain relationship for the soil and Darcy's law for the flow of pore fluid are assumed. The model takes into account the compressibility of both components (i.e., pore fluid and soil skeleton) of the two-phase medium.The results of numerical analysis are presented and discussed with respect to soil and pore fluid parameters where special attention is paid to the question of soil saturation conditions. The meaning of the results is also related to surface wave conditions. As a general conclusion, the practical, engineering recommendation is given in order to make a realistic, safe and economic estimation of the wave-induced uplift force acting on a buried submarine pipeline.     

基于SWAN模型的南中国海“莫拉菲”台风浪研究

我国的水运工程建设频繁受到台风浪的侵袭。为了对台风浪的防灾减灾提供有益帮助,本文基于第三代海浪模式SWAN建立了南中国海台风浪数值模型,并以“0906”号台风“莫拉菲”为例对模拟结果进行了分析。结果表明,台风风场与波浪场相似,即大小均由中心向外围递减,方向均为逆时针旋转;台风风场呈圆对称分布,而波浪场由于受到海底地形与岸线影响,呈现椭圆对称分布。有效波高等值线亦从中心向外围递减,且形状受地形与岸线影响较大。对台风浪组成机制的探讨结果显示风浪和涌浪均可组成台风浪,且海底地形与岸线(例如岛屿效应)亦对台风浪特性有所影响。     

新型半潜式海上风力机基础水动力特性研究

概念性地设计了一种新型半潜式海上风力机基础,确定了结构的型式和尺寸,对风浪联合作用下不同工况的风力机基础稳性进行了校核.考虑黏性阻尼和二阶波浪力的作用,计算分析了风力机基础的水动力系数、幅频运动以及动力响应特性.结果表明,经过改进的新型风力机基础具有良好的稳性和水动力性能,特别是在垂荡性能上有大幅的提升.波浪入射角度对垂荡的影响不大,但对其他自由度RAOs影响较大.垂荡、横摇和纵摇RAOs均存在一个主峰值和次峰值,但峰值周期均远离波能集中区.此外还发现,不同工况下风浪入射角对风机系统的动力响应和系泊力均有较大影响,相对于工作工况,极端工况下所受风荷载较小,但是系泊力更大.     

波浪作用下孤立砂球稳定性条件研究

波浪作用下大块石稳定性条件的研究,不仅是泥沙运动力学急待发展的内容之一,也是抛石工程合理化设计的重要问题。在收集大量国内外有关研究资料的基础上,分析了在波浪作用下大块石的受力状况,得出当大块石处于失稳临界状态时,其所受失稳应力与其自身有效容重和其当量直径乘积的比值是雷诺数、斯特鲁哈尔数及块石水下休止角的函数。为排除块石形状和块石间相互支撑形式不规则等干扰因素的影响,采用固定钢圈支撑孤立水泥砂球,在波浪槽中进行试验研究。根据试验资料,在斯特鲁哈尔数大于10的条件下,验证了当沙粒雷诺数达到105以后Shields曲线出现跳跃的事实。     

On the intensification of decimeter-range wind waves in film slicks

The physical influence of the intensification of decimeter waves on a water surface covered by a surfactant film is proposed. The damping of a long wave caused by the loss of its energy on the modulation of short (centimeter) wind waves is analyzed. The damping coefficient of waves of decimeter-meter lengths is calculated, and this coefficient is shown to decrease in the presence of a surfactant film. The strong suppression of the spectrum of centimeter wind waves in a film slick is the physical factor responsible for such a decrease. Due to a decrease in the damping coefficient of decimeter-meter waves, their intensity in the slick increases. Within the framework of a model of the spectrally local energy balance of wind waves, the results of calculations satisfactorily agree with the experiment.     

山东一次春季冷空气10级大风的天气成因

2020年3月18日中午至夜间,山西、河北、北京、天津和山东等地先后出现阵风10级及以上强风天气。利用风廓线雷达、国家级地面气象观测站和欧洲中期天气预报中心(European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts,ECMWF)第五代大气再分析数据(ECMWF Reanalysis v5,ERA5)等资料,对强风过程的天气学成因进行了分析。结果表明：强风发生在低空暖脊异常发展的热力环境条件下,冷锋自黄土高原下到华北平原,中层锋消,垂直方向上发生“断裂”,低层冷锋先行侵入热低压,在锋生过程中发生。强风具有显著的非地转瞬变特征,低层强冷平流是强变压梯度产生的主要因素,变压风叠加在快速移动的冷锋系统中诱发大风,变压风是重要组成部分;低空动量下传效应引起低层风速波动,但不足以直接诱发强风。     

Numerical Modeling of Tropical Cyclone-Induced Storm Surge in the Gulf of Oman Using a Storm Surge–Wave–Tide Coupled Model

Ocean Science Journal - A storm surge is a complex phenomenon in which current, tide, and waves interact with each other. Even if the wind is the main force of driving the surge, waves and tide are...     

基于ADCP反演渤海湾悬浮体浓度年变化

基于座底ADCP实测回波强度信号,结合短期实测悬浮体质量浓度,反演长时间序列悬浮体质量浓度,定量分析了渤海湾近一年悬浮体质量浓度变化特征及其影响因素。结果表明:受风浪影响,该区悬浮体质量浓度具有明显季节性变化特征,风浪作用强烈的季节其悬浮体浓度表现为相对高值。悬浮体净输运同样具明显季节性变化,秋冬强风浪作用下,悬浮体的净输运量明显增加;而在不同季节,月净输运方向具有不同的主输运方向。悬浮体质量浓度日变化受潮流控制明显,长周期变化则主要与风场的变化有关。潮流涨急过程与风致大浪过程均可引起沉积物再悬浮,导致悬浮体浓度明显增高。     

地形对陆架拦截波性质及机制的影响

陆架波的性质如频散关系、形成机制等受地形影响。研究地形对陆架波的性质影响具有重要意义。基于陆架拦截波理论,数值计算了分段线性地形下不同宽度陆架上陆架拦截波的频散关系、长波假设下波动的相速度、阻尼情况下的波动耗散率以及强迫波的外力影响因子。分析了陆架宽度及坡度对自由及强迫陆架拦截波性质的影响。陆架宽度影响陆架拦截波的频散关系。陆架变宽,使得长波频散曲线的斜率增大。陆架宽度的增加使第一模态陆架拦截波有明显的性质变化:相速度增大,波动受辐散影响的程度变大,摩擦衰减距离增大,且风应力旋度在波动的生成机制中起到的作用渐强。在宽的陆架上,研究陆架拦截波的生成及强迫波的振幅时,应充分考虑风应力旋度的作用。第二、三模态波动的相速度受陆架坡度的影响较大,但摩擦衰减距离基本都在200km左右,几乎不随陆架宽度改变,属于局地波。