Classifying inundation limits in SE coast of India: application of GIS

A study on the possible inundation limit in SE coast of India was carried out using various physical, geological and satellite imageries. The coastal inundation hazard map was prepared for this particular region as it was affected by many cyclones, flooding, storm surge and tsunami waves during the last six decades. The results were generated using various satellite data (IRS-P6 LISS3; LANDSAT ETM; LANDSAT-5 ETM; LANDSAT MSS) and digital elevation models (ASTER GLOBAL DEM), and a coastal vulnerability index was generated for the entire coastal stretch of Nagapattinam region in SE coast of India. The coastal area which will be submerged totally due to a 1–5 m rise in water level due to any major natural disaster (tsunami or cyclone) indicates that 56–320 km² will be submerged in this particular region. The results suggest that nearly 7 towns and 69 villages with 667,477 people will be affected and indicate that proper planning needs to be done for future development.     

A comparative study on the style of paleotsunami deposits at two sites on the west coast of India

Based on field documentation, we produce a comparative analysis of soft sediment deformation and other sedimentary signatures indicative of paleotsunami at two beach sites on the west coast of India. Trench profiles from these sites depict major differences in morphology of the structures as a result of greater overpressure from terrigenous backwash deposition at Dive Agar compared to Guhagarh, where the backwash flow escaped through an estuarine outlet. The occurrence of sporadic boulders, wedge-shaped heavy mineral sand layers and capping of the deposit by a pedogenic surface at Guhagarh depicts an older tsunami of larger magnitude compared to Dive Agar. The collective orientation of the characteristic signatures suggests two different sources of tsunami at Dive Agar (from Sunda arc in the SE) and Guhagarh (from Makran in the NW) that are further modeled to suggest the probable paleo-oceanographic conditions. The style of paleotsunami signatures are thus indicative of the coastal response to the arriving tsunami which is further controlled by the direction of source and the morphology of the coast. The study of paleotsunami records therefore provides useful information on the local coastal response to an arriving tsunami which is essential for vulnerability studies and better preparedness.     

Tsunami vulnerability assessment in urban areas using numerical model and GIS

Natural disasters can neither be predicted nor prevented. Urban areas with a high population density coupled with the construction of man-made structures are subjected to greater levels of risk to life and property in the event of natural hazards. One of the major and densely populated urban areas in the east coast of India is the city of Chennai (Madras), which was severely affected by the 2004 Tsunami, and mitigation efforts were severely dampened due to the non-availability of data on the vulnerability on the Chennai coast to tsunami hazard. Chennai is prone to coastal hazards and hence has hazard maps on its earth-quake prone areas, cyclone prone areas and flood prone areas but no information on areas vulnerable to tsunamis. Hence, mapping has to be done of the areas where the tsunami of December 2004 had directly hit and flooded the coastal areas in Chennai in order to develop tsunami vulnerability map for coastal Chennai. The objective of this study is to develop a GIS-based tsunami vulnerability map for Chennai by using a numerical model of tsunami propagation together with documented observations and field measurements of the evidence left behind by the tsunami in December 2004. World-renowned and the second-longest tourist beach in the world “Marina” present in this region witnessed maximum death toll due to its flat topography, resulting in an inundation of about 300 m landward with high flow velocity of the order of 2 m/s.     

Offshore depositional sequence of 2004 tsunami from Chennai, SE coast of India

Offshore sediment characteristics of the 2004 tsunami were identified from a shallow core collected from the Chennai Coast, India. The depositional sequence clearly distinguishes four different processes: mixed facies (post-tsunami): 0–8 cm; tsunami return flow facies (TRFF): 8–20 cm; tsunami landward flow facies: 20–44 cm; and pre-tsunami facies: 44–64 cm, which all took place during and after the tsunami event. The coarse-grained nature and higher carbonate in the TRFF indicate that considerable sediment load was transported from the beach/land area to the offshore region during the return flow of tsunami waves. The relatively greater abundance of benthic foraminiferal species in the core sample suggests that the taxa were transported from deeper regions of the inner shelf regions of Bay of Bengal region. The depositional characteristics in this region can be utilized for future comparative studies from this region as well as in other offshore regions affected by tsunamis with sequence-based studies on local topography.     

海啸波作用下岸滩演变与床沙组成变化研究综述

从海啸波作用下岸滩演变、床沙组成变化、建筑物周围淘刷和数值模拟研究4个方面,总结分析了国内外的研究现状和最新进展,指出可控环境下的实验和数值模拟研究相对较少、床沙组成变化缺乏关注、建筑物周围局部冲刷机理认识不足、缺少多尺度数值模拟计算等是当前研究存在的主要不足。在特大型波浪水槽内开展实验研究、发展多尺度混合数学模型、完善海啸波作用下的泥沙输移计算理论等是未来研究取得突破的关键方向。     

海啸波作用下泥沙运动——Ⅰ.岸滩剖面变化分析

在波浪水槽实验的基础上,对海啸波作用下的岸滩剖面演变规律开展研究。实验采用1/10~1/20的组合坡度,考虑3种不同的水深,选取N波作为入射波,同时采用规则波和非规则波进行对比研究。实验对波高、波浪的上爬、回落和水跃过程、每个波作用后的地形进行了测量和记录。研究结果表明,水动力特性的不同造成了N波与规则波和不规则波作用下不同的岸滩剖面演变特点。N波作用下发生了明显的岸滩冲刷和淤积,水流回落时滩肩发生冲刷,高速薄层回流和出渗水流作用是滩肩冲刷的主要原因,离岸区水跃发生水流挟沙力降低,泥沙淤积呈沙坝剖面。     

Run-up and Inundation Pattern Developed During the Indian Ocean Tsunami of December 26, 2004 Along the Coast of Tamilnadu (India)

The tsunami run-up, inundation and damage pattern observed along the coast of Tamilnadu (India) during the deadliest Indian Ocean tsunami of December 26, 2004 is documented in this paper. The tsunami caused severe damage and claimed many victims in the coastal areas of eleven countries, bordering the Indian Ocean. Along the coast of Indian mainland, the damage was caused by the tsunami only. Largest tsunami run-up and inundation was observed along the coast of Nagapattinam district and was about 10–12 m and 3.0 km, respectively. The measured inundation data were strongly scattered in direct relationship to the morphology of the seashore and the tsunami run-up. Lowest tsunami run-up and inundation was measured along the coast of Thanjavur, Puddukkotai and Ramnathpuram districts of Tamilnadu in the Palk Strait. The presence of shadow of Sri Lanka, the interferences of direct/receded waves with the reflected waves from Sri Lanka and Maldive Islands and variation in the width of continental shelf were the main cause of large variation in tsunami run-up along the coast of Tamilnadu.     

Modelling December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami: a coastal study

December 2004 tsunami in the Indian Ocean region has been simulated using MIKE-21 HD model. The vertical displacement of the seabed is incorporated into the numerical simulation by using time-varying bathymetry data. In the open ocean, sea surface height from altimeter observation has been used to validate the model results. To the west of the rupture zone, the crest is observed to precede the trough of the tsunami waves while to the east, trough preceded the crest. The model performance along the coastal region has been validated using de-tided sea levels from tide gauge measurements at Tuticorin, Chennai, Vishakapattanam, and Paradip ports along the east coast of India. Unique coastal characteristics of the tsunami waves, wave height, and wave celerity are reasonably simulated by the numerical model. Spectral analysis of tide gauge observations and corresponding model results has been done, and the distribution of frequency peaks from the analysis of gauge observations and the model results is observed to have a reasonable comparison. Low-frequency waves, contributed from the coastally trapped edge waves, are found to dominate both the tide gauge observations and the model results. The subsequent increase in the tsunami wave height observed at Chennai, Vishakapattanam, and Paradip has been explained on the basis of coastally trapped edge waves. From the validation studies using altimeter data and tide gauge data, it is observed that the model can be used effectively to simulate the tsunami wave height in the offshore as well as in the coastal region with satisfying performance.     

Laboratory study on tsunami erosion and deposition under protection of rigid emergent vegetation

Devastating tsunami waves can change the coastal morphology considerably. The effects of vegetation to coastal morphodynamics have been of primary interest for decades, because of their role in coastal protection and ecological environment. The damping of wave and impact of beach evolution are the two significant contributions on emerged vegetation. However, the laboratory study of tsunami erosion and deposition under protection of coastal vegetation was less understood compared to tsunami run-up and tsunami inundation. A set of laboratory experiments were reported in this study on changes of size-selective sandy beach profile under the protection of rigid emergent vegetation. The total of fifteen experiments was carried out in a wave flume including two initial profiles (with vegetation and none vegetation), three different wave conditions and four forest densities. The experiments show that rigid emergent vegetation changes the depth and location of tsunami deposition and erosion in sandy beach. The dimensionless numbers were derived to characterize the cross-shore beach profile response under the protection of rigid emergent vegetation. These parameters were written as a dimensionless group, and based upon this present experimental datum, the empirical equations were developed. The study reveals the internal connection among tsunami deposition and erosion, wave height and forest density. The findings of this study have the potential to assist the tsunami hazards prevention and mitigation.     

Sedimentological and 14C dating studies of past tsunami events in Southern Sri Lanka

After the 2004 Sumatra?CAndaman tsunamigenic earthquake, waters from the ocean moved upstream along rivers, bays, harbors, and lagoons and inundated many coastal and inland locations in the southern, eastern, and northern parts of Sri Lanka. The tsunami waters were observed to move upwards inland and then recede downwards to the ocean after varying inundation periods in different coastal areas. Subsequent massive tsunami waves came with the wave height varying from 3 to 8?m inland with speed of about 30?C40?kmph. The oceanic waves carrying heterogeneous sediments with water deposited them in coastal as well as inland locations about 1?km from the present coastline. Given the chaotic nature of tsunami oceanic waves, pre-tsunami deposits, such as beach sands, debris from coral reefs and buildings, parts of vehicles and ships, and tree trunks are found incorporated in authentic tsunami sediments. Thus, the texture, structure, and composition of sediments deposited by tsunami waters differed from one location to another. Therefore, in identifying paleo-tsunami sediments, care was taken to compare them with diagnostic unmixed uncontaminated recent tsunami sediments having characteristic textures and marine microfossil assemblages, such as foraminifera, radiolarians, and diatoms where preserved in coastal depressions. The radiocarbon ages of the carbonate and the organic fractions of these sediments are stratigraphically inconsistent, indicating mixing of sediments by the tsunami waves. The concentrations of organic carbon and nitrogen and their isotopic signatures confirm marine origin of these sediments.     

An extreme wave event in eastern Yucatán,Mexico: Evidence of a palaeotsunami event during the Mayan times

The Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico, has typically been considered a tectonically stable region with little significant seismic activity. The region though, is one that is regularly affected by hurricanes. A detailed survey of ca 100 km of the eastern Yucatán and Cozumel coast identified the presence of ridges containing individual boulders measuring >1 m in length. The boulder ridges reach 5 m in height and their origin is associated with extreme wave event activity. Previously modelled tsunami waves from known seismically active zones in the region (Muertos Thrust Belt and South Caribbean Deformed Belt) are not of sufficient scale in the area of the Yucatán Peninsula to have produced the boulder ridges recorded in this study. The occurrence of hurricanes in this region is more common, but two of the most destructive (Hurricane Gilbert 1988 and Hurricane Wilma 2005) produced coastal waves too small to have created the ridges recorded here. In this paper, a new tsunami model with a source area located on the Motagua/Swan Island Fault System has been generated that indicates a tsunami event may have caused the extreme wave events that resulted in the deposition of the boulder ridges.     

Environmental geochemistry of core sediments from Serthalaikkadu creek,East coast of India

The Serthalaikkadu creek in Muthupet mangroves region is the only E–W trending coastal strip in the SE coast of India and it also acts as a barrier to natural disasters. Natural, anthropogenic signals and accumulation of elements were studied by collecting sediments from two cores. Textural parameters were studied in detail and carbonates (CaCO₃), organic carbon (OC), major (Si, Al, Fe, Na, K, Ca, Mg, P) and trace elements (Mn, Cr, Cu, Ni, Co, Pb, Zn) were determined. Textural parameters, CaCO₃, OC and Al-normalized pattern of elements indicate depositional events in core samples that can be directly related to natural events during the last decade. The calculated enrichment, anthropogenic factors and comparison of data indicate that the observed trace metals (especially Pb, Co) are enriched mainly due to the anthropogenic activities in the land as well as in the coastal zone (Palk Strait).     

Discovery of possible mega-thrust earthquake along the Seram Trough from records of 1629 tsunami in eastern Indonesian region

Arthur Wichmann’s “Earthquakes of the Indian Archipelago” documents several large earthquakes and tsunami throughout the Banda Arc region that can be interpreted as mega-thrust events. However, the source regions of these events are not known. One of the largest and well-documented events in the catalog is the great earthquake and tsunami affecting the Banda Islands on August 1, 1629. It caused severe damage from a 15-m tsunami that arrived at the Banda Islands about a half hour after violent shaking stopped. The earthquake was also recorded 230 km away in Ambon, but no tsunami is mentioned. This event was followed by at least 9 years of uncommonly frequent seismic activity in the region that tapered off with time, which can be interpreted as aftershocks. The combination of these observations indicates that the earthquake was most likely a mega-thrust event. We use an inverse modeling approach to numerically reconstruct the tsunami, which constrains the likely location and magnitude of the 1629 earthquake. Only, linear numerical models are applied due to the low resolution of bathymetry in the Banda Islands and Ambon. Therefore, we apply various wave amplification factors (1.5–4) derived from simulations of recent, well-constrained tsunami to bracket the upper and lower limits of earthquake moment magnitudes for the event. The closest major earthquake sources to the Banda Islands are the Tanimbar and Seram Troughs of the Banda subduction/collision zone. Other source regions are too far away for such a short arrival time of the tsunami after shaking. Moment magnitudes predicted by the models in order to produce a 15-m tsunami are M_w of 9.8–9.2 on the Tanimbar Trough and M_w 8.8–8.2 on the Seram Trough. The arrival times of these waves are 58 min for Tanimbar Trough and 30 min for Seram Trough. The model also predicts 5-m run-up for Ambon from a Tanimbar Trough source, which is inconsistent with the historical records. Ambon is mostly shielded from a wave generated by a Seram Trough source. We conclude that the most likely source of the 1629 mega-thrust earthquake is the Seram Trough. Only one earthquake >M_w 8.0 is recorded instrumentally from the eastern Indonesia region although high rates of strain (50–80 mm/a) are measured across the Seram section of the Banda subduction zone. Enough strain has already accumulated since the last major historical event to produce an earthquake of similar size to the 1629 event. Due to the rapid population growth in coastal areas in this region, it is imperative that the most vulnerable coastal areas prepare accordingly.     

Depositional features in tourist beaches of Chennai Metropolis,SE coast of India: Inferences from grain size studies

The present study was undertaken to examine the depositional and transportation pattern in the tourist beaches of Chennai in SE coast of India. Twenty four samples were analyzed for textural parameters, Linear discriminate function (LDF), C-M plots and heavy/light minerals from beach, berm and dune regions. Results of textural parameters indicate that they are coarse grained in the three regions. Majority of the samples indicate that they are moderately well sorted, symmetrically skewed and leptokurtic. The LDF analysis allowed in identifying areas that are characterized by: (1) beach, (2) shallow agitated environment and (3) fluvial deposits. C-M plots indicate that the sediments in the beaches were deposited from the near shore environment. Heavy mineral analysis suggests that the heavy and light minerals were in the range of 0.5 to 16.9% and 82.08 to 98.14% and the light/dark layers are controlled by the prevailing tidal conditions in the coastal region. It is observed that sand is accumulating from the shallow agitated environment, while the transportation and deposition of sediments is mainly due to the interaction of tidal activities at the same time. C-M plots suggest that the sediments fall in the graded suspension and the saltation activities in the region also facilitate to understand the hydrodynamics of the region suggesting that they are deposited by high-energy activities.     

Application of Species Distribution Models to Identify Estuarine Hot Spots for Juvenile Nekton

Modeling the distribution and habitat capacities of key estuarine species can be used to identify hot spots, areas where species density is significantly higher than surrounding areas. This approach would be useful for establishing a baseline for evaluating future environmental scenarios across a landscape. We developed species distribution models for early juvenile life stages of brown shrimp (Farfantepenaeus aztecus), white shrimp (Litopenaeus setiferus), blue crab (Callinectes sapidus), and spotted seatrout (Cynoscion nebulosus) in order to delineate the current coastal hot spots that provide the highest quality habitat conditions for these estuarine-dependent species in Louisiana. Response curves were developed from existing long-term fisheries-independent monitoring data to identify habitat suitability for fragmented marsh landscapes. Response curves were then integrated with spatially explicit input data to generate species distribution models for the coastal region of Louisiana. Using spatial autocorrelation metrics, we detected clusters of suitable habitat across the Louisiana coast, but only 1% of the areas were identified as true hot spots with the highest habitat quality for nekton. The regions identified as hot spots were productive fringing marsh habitats that are considered the most vulnerable to natural and anthropogenic impacts. The species distribution models identify the coastal habitats which currently provide the greatest capacity for key estuarine species and will be used in the Louisiana coastal planning process to evaluate how species distributions may change under various environmental and restoration scenarios.     

Detailing the impact of the Storegga Tsunami at Montrose,Scotland

The Storegga tsunami, dated in Norway to 8150±30 cal. years BP, hit many countries bordering the North Sea. Run-ups of >30 m occurred and 1000s of kilometres of coast were impacted. Whilst recent modelling successfully generated a tsunami wave train, the wave heights and velocities, it under-estimated wave run-ups. Work presented here used luminescence to directly date the Storegga tsunami deposits at the type site of Maryton, Aberdeenshire in Scotland. It also undertook sedimentological characterization to establish provenance, and number and relative power of the tsunami waves. Tsunami model refinement used this to better understand coastal inundation. Luminescence ages successfully date Scottish Storegga tsunami deposits to 8100±250 years. Sedimentology showed that at Montrose, three tsunami waves came from the northeast or east, over-ran pre-existing marine sands and weathered igneous bedrock on the coastal plain. Incorporation of an inundation model predicts well a tsunami impacting on the Montrose Basin in terms of replicate direction and sediment size. However, under-estimation of run-up persisted requiring further consideration of palaeotopography and palaeo-near-shore bathymetry for it to agree with sedimentary evidence. Future model evolution incorporating this will be better able to inform on the hazard risk and potential impacts for future high-magnitude submarine generated tsunami events.     

Geological characteristics of 2011 Japan tsunami sediments deposited along the coast of southwestern Mexico

The tsunami of 11th March 2011 was originated at the east coast of Japan and deposited ca.1 cm thick sediment layer along the coast of southwestern Mexico up to a maximum distance of 320 m from the beach. The sedimentological, mineralogical and geochemical characteristics of the sediments deposited during the tsunami (JT) are compared with the pre-tsunami sediments (PRT). JT sediments consist of dominant coarser fractions (>54% of medium to coarse sand), whereas PRT deposits comprise abundant finer fractions (>58% of fine sand). Assemblage of mafic and heavy minerals suggests similar provenance for both. The higher abundance and variation of heavy minerals along with higher concentrations of bromine (Br) and sodium (Na) in the JT deposits reveal the influence of high energy sea waves in transportation of heavy mineral rich coarse sediments onto the coastal lowlands.     

Mapping of seawater inundation along Nagapattinam based on field observations

Nagapattinam, in the east coast of India, was severely affected during the deadliest Indian Ocean tsunami of December 26, 2004. The tsunami caused heavy damage to life and property, and the death toll was about 3,378 in Nagapattinam taluk. Certain villages along the coast witnessed large inundation while adjacent villages were protected from the fury of the tsunami waves. This study was carried out to examine the underlying causes for the vulnerability along Nagapattinam coast with the help of field observations, remote sensing, and geographical information system as tools. Coastal areas with high sand dunes have been protected from tsunami, and areas adjacent to backwaters were inundated. Realtime Kinematic Global Positioning System and high-resolution satellite data were used to map the topographic information and maximum extent of inundation. Thematic maps on land use, land cover, and coastal geomorphology were generated using remote sensing and field data. Using field data as the primary source of information, tsunami hazard maps have been generated for Nagapattinam.     

波浪作用下砂质滩坝的沉积过程与沉积模式

受波浪及沿岸流影响,在滨岸地区形成的滩坝砂体是滨海（湖）带发育的主要砂体类型。目前国内外学者对滩坝沉积砂体的认识多来自于现代沉积和油气地质特征,对滩坝砂体的沉积机制和内部结构研究相对较弱。基于沉积水槽实验,采用规则波浪对沙质斜坡滨岸带进行模拟实验,观测波浪作用下滨岸带滩坝形成过程和波浪运动特征,记录波浪作用下滨岸带沙质滩坝在不同浪带平面时空演化规律。实验结果显示:波浪是改造湖岸原有沉积物的关键驱动力,波浪作用下沙质岸滩床面泥砂将发生输移运动,而滩坝是陆湖（海）泥沙在水动力驱动下搬运沉积的结果,水动力的强弱及水流结构引起泥沙在空间上的不均匀输运和分布,进而塑造不同的滩坝形态。与强波浪相关的高水位可以加速滩坝系统的形成并最终形成大规模的滩坝砂;相比之下,与较弱波浪相关的低水位只能略微改变初始沉积物形态。根据不同的沉积物特征可将实验中的滩坝系统分为三类:冲浪带和碎浪带滩坝系统近端部分的大规模厚层坝砂,破浪带和升浪带滩坝系统中部分布广泛的薄滩砂,以及位于滩坝系统中远端的弧形或平行排列的脊状、砂纹坝砂。建立了水槽实验模式下滩坝沉积模式,可用于指导油气勘探开发。