Effects of wave age and air stability on whitecap coverage

The paper considers the effects of wave age and air stability on the whitecap coverage at sea. This is made by using the logarithmic mean wind velocity profile including a stability function as well as adopting a recent wave age dependent sea surface roughness formula. The results are valid for wind waves in local equilibrium with the steady wind. Examples of results demonstrate clear effects of wave age and air stability on the whitecap coverage. Comparisons are also made with field measurements by Sugihara et al. [Sugihara, Y., et al., 2007. Variation of whitecap coverage with wave-field conditions. J. Mar. Syst. 66, 47–60], representing unstable air stability conditions. Although the data basis is limited, the wave age independent Charnock sea roughness based predictions capture the main features of the observed whitecap coverage, suggesting a stronger dependence on air stability than on wave age in the data.     

风浪状态对海面粗糙度影响

风浪状态参数常用于对海面粗糙度的参数化。中等风速条件下考虑风浪状态参数影响的海面粗糙度参数化方案常存在自相关效应,本文通过分析实测数据得到了无量纲粗糙度随波陡变化的参数化方案,该方案能够有效去除自相关效应;高风速下风浪状态对海面粗糙度仍存在影响,文中基于新得出的中等风速下的海面粗糙度参数化方案,考虑海面飞沫悬浮层的影响,建立了适用于高风速条件下的海面粗糙度参数化方案,该海面粗糙度方案同样考虑了波陡的作用,将该方案计算出的理论值与实测数据进行比对,发现随着波陡的变化,理论值基本涉及测量值的覆盖范围,说明新建立的高风速条件下海面粗糙度方案对海面风浪状态具有较好的敏感性,且该方案能够较合理地描述海气界面之间动量传输。将新提出的适用于高风速下的海面粗糙度方案加入到海浪数值模式中,模拟飓风Ivan产生的台风浪,利用浮标数据进行验证,结果显示模拟的有效波高相对模式默认方案具有较高的精度,说明采用本文新建立的适合高风速的海面粗糙度方案能够改进海浪模式的台风浪有效波高模拟结果。     

Wind gust spectrum over waves: Effect of wave age

The effect of wave age on the wind gust spectrum over wind waves is considered by using the Ochi and Shin [1988. Wind turbulent spectra for design considerations of offshore structures. Proceedings of 20th Offshore Technology Conference, Paper No. 5736, Houston, Texas. pp. 461–467] spectrum together with the wave age dependant Volkov [2001. The dependence on wave age. In: Jones, I.S.F., Toba, Y. (Eds.), Wind Stress Over the Ocean. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK, pp. 206–217] sea surface roughness formula. The wave age independent Charnock [1955. Wind stress on a water surface. Quarterly Journal of Royal Meteorological Society 81, 639–640] sea surface roughness is used as a reference. An example of results demonstrates a clear effect of wave age on the wind gust spectrum.     

Modulation of short wind waves by a long surface wave: a mechanism for feedback with an air flow

The paper concentrates on the evolution of a spectrum of short wind waves (SW) along the profile of a long surface wave (LW). Short wave spectral variations are considered in the relaxation approximation. The SW spectrum is modulated by the orbital velocities of long waves and by the variations of wind stress along the LW profile. The latter effect occurs due to wind flux perturbations induced by both the long wave proper and variations of the sea surface roughness induced by the SW modulations. To describe this effect, a feedback mechanism is introduces—the growth of energy of short waves results in the larger roughness of the sea surface, thereby contributing to the local wind stress, which facilitates, in turn, the growth of short waves. With moderate and strong winds being involved, this effect (aerodynamic feedback) is shown to be dominant in the short wave spectrum modulation. The mechanism becomes more efficient with intensification of the wind and decreasing of the long waves' frequency. Results of model calculations are in agreement with the known experimental data. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

太平洋海面粗糙度的计算及波长的提取

海面粗糙度对于海洋工程和海洋军事非常重要,但是海面粗糙度的现场观测资料非常少,波长更难观测。本文利用TOPEX高度计风速资料,实现了对海面粗糙度的反演。给出了一种提取波长的方法,通过验证表明利用该方法得到的波长精度较高。     

海面粗糙度方案的适用性研究

由量纲分析导出海面粗糙度与波龄及海面涌浪的状况有关,并对与波龄和波陡有关的两种海面粗糙度模型方案进行了敏感性测试,得出利用波龄模型方案计算粗糙度的误差比利用波陡模型方案小。基于国际上6个不同水深、风区和海况条件的海气交换试验资料,将其分为两组,一组是纯风海或以风海为主海况条件,另一组是以涌浪为主海况条件,测试波龄、波陡模型海面粗糙度方案在不同试验条件下的适用性。结果得出:在各种海况条件下,波龄模型粗糙度方案比波陡模型具有更好的普适性。在纯风海或以风海为主海况条件下,PS07,DGHQ03方案计算的粗糙度长度与实测资料计算结果最接近,GW06方案次之,O02方案计算结果明显偏高;涌浪为主海况条件下两种模型方案计算的粗糙度长度均偏低,O02方案计算的粗糙度长度误差相对较小,TY01方案误差最大。     

ERS散射计风速资料反演海面粗糙度

本文首先提出了一个利用海面风场计算海面粗糙度(空气动力学粗糙长度)的模式。应用ERS-1/2散射计风速资料,对我国南海海域的海面粗糙度进行了初步的研究。卫星散射计测风具有高精度和高空间分辨率等特点,这对于研究海面粗糙度及波长、周期和波陡等波浪信息研究提供了坚实的数据基础。     

Wave-tide-surge coupled simulation for typhoon Maemi

The main task of this study focuses on studying the effect of wave-current interaction on currents, storm surge and wind wave as well as effects of current induced wave refraction and current on waves by using numerical models which consider the bottom boundary layer and sea surface roughness parameter for shallow and smooth bed area around Korean Peninsula. The coupled system (unstructured-mesh SWAN wave and ADCIRC) run on the same unstructured mesh. This identical and homogeneous mesh allows the physics of wave-circulation interactions to be correctly resolved in both models. The unstructured mesh can be applied to a large domain allowing all energy from deep to shallow waters to be seamlessly followed. There is no nesting or overlapping of structured wave meshes, and no interpolation is required. In response to typhoon Maemi (2003), all model components were validated independently, and shown to provide a faithful representation of the system’s response to this storm. The waves and storm surge were allowed to develop on the continental shelf and interact with the complex nearshore environment. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for prediction of the typhoon surge. The result show that it is important to incorporate the wave-current interaction effect into coastal area in the wave-tide-surge coupled model. At the same time, it should consider effects of depth-induced wave breaking, wind field, currents and sea surface elevation in prediction of waves. Specially, we found that: (1) wave radiation stress enhanced the current and surge elevation otherwise wave enhanced nonlinear bottom boundary layer decreased that, (2) wind wave was significantly controlled by sea surface roughness thus we cautiously took the experimental expression. The resulting modeling system can be used for hindcasting (prediction) the wave-tide-surge coupled environments at complex coastline, shallow water and fine sediment area like areas around Korean Peninsula.     

粗糙度与风浪特征量关系的研究

在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪和风速,研究粗糙度与波面特征量的关系,发现风浪谱宽度增加,粗糙度增大。在窄谱时,粗糙度随谱宽的增加变化不明显,当波陡降低,粗糙度降低;在宽谱时,当谱宽度增加,即使波陡降低,粗糙度仍可增大。这一结果表明,波陡不足以完全决定粗糙度。当风浪波龄增加,粗糙度呈下降趋势,但由于谱宽度对粗糙度的影响,当波龄增加,部分波浪可有较大的粗糙度。由于这一因素,在粗糙度与波龄关系的观测结果中,数据点的散落不完全由观测误差造成。     

蒸发波导条件下风速风向对电磁波传播的影响

海洋蒸发波导是重要的军事敏感要素,严重影响着海上电磁波的传播。风向、风速是决定蒸发波导强弱的重要因素,为精确模拟蒸发波导条件下的电磁波传播,准确评估预报雷达、通信等电子设备的性能,文中利用抛物线方程模型,结合粗糙度参数和蒸发波导条件下大气修正折射指数廓线模型来求解电磁波波动方程,基于电磁波传播的数值模拟结果,重点研究蒸发波导条件下风速和风向对电磁波传播的影响。并得到如下结论:在同一传播距离处,风速越大,海面粗糙度越大,海面电磁波传播损耗就越大;当电磁波传播方向与风向夹角为0°时,其传播路径损耗远远大于在45°或90°条件下,即顺风条件下电磁波传播损耗大于侧风。     

GNSS-R观测下的海面飓风风速反演

利用全球导航卫星系统在地球表面的反射信号（GNSS-R）进行海面风速反演已经被广泛研究并作为一种重要的遥感手段。目前,该L波段微波信号的相关功率已可以在多普勒频率和时延码片空间进行多普勒时延图像的成像。由于该图像的图像特征与海面粗糙度有较高的相关性,因此能够用来进行海面风场反演。然而,对于该遥感手段而言,其双基雷达前向散射截面（BRCS）理论上与海面粗糙度有更高的相关性,如同目前合成孔径雷达使用后向雷达散射截面而非相关功率。所以,本文通过改进已有的GNSS-R的双基雷达散射截面方程,代替相关功率在多普勒时延空间进行成像,得出了与海面粗糙度相关的双基雷达散射截面图像（BRCS map）。基于该图像,本文提出了三种与其形状特征相关的观测量,通过2005年Dennis飓风GNSS-R机载数据生成的16000多幅图像进行地球物理模式函数建模并与经典的一维时延波形匹配方法得出结果进行对比分析,得出更为精确的风速反演结果。     

利用卫星高度计风速资料研究海面粗糙度

海面粗糙度对于海洋工程和海洋军事都非常重要,但对海面粗糙度的现场观测资料非常少, 这大大制约了对海面粗糙度的认识。利用 TOPEX 高度计风速资料实现了对海面粗糙度的反演,并利用 1993 年和1998 年两年的资料对西北太平洋海域的海面粗糙度进行了研究。     

两参量的海面阻力系数模式的探讨

从风浪的能量平衡方程出发，引进若干风要素与波要素以及波要素之间的定性关系，经演算可导出海面阻力系数（Ｃｐ）或是风速（Ｕ）和波龄（β）或是Ｕ和波高（Ｈ）的函数，然后沿用最小二乘法，终将得出４组１２个回归方程。当β（或β）或Ｈ为某一给定值，惟有Ｕ为唯一参量时，所提各式均可简化为非线性方程：ＣＤ＝ａ＋ｂ，Ｕ＋ｃ．Ｕ＾２；式中ａ，ｂ和ｃ为三个经验系数，就所检验的例子而言，本文的结果与实际的符合前人的为好。     

Simple expressions for correcting wind speed data for elevation

Using the logarithmic wind profile and typical values of dimensionless sea roughness for different sea states, simple power expressions are derived for the wind profile over water. The power expressions are useful for correcting measured wind speed data at a given elevation (up to an elevation of 60 m) to the standard elevation of 10 m commonly used in coastal engineering studies. The analysis shows that the 1/7 power expression (suggested in [U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1984. Shore Protection Manual, Vol. 1. Coastal Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg, USA.] and commonly used today) is a good approximation (<3% error) of the logarithmic profile for various sea states up to an elevation of 20 m. Above this elevation, the 1/7 power expression underestimates the wind speed for moderate to fully developed sea states.     

New Interpretation of Dependence of Wind Stress on Wave State

Based on observations from buoys, it is found that the wave age is well correlated with the nondimensional wave height, and this correlation is best described by a 3/5-power law. This similarity law is valid in the cases of wind waves as well as swells under natural sea states. On the basis of the 3/5-power law combined with the well-known 3/2-power law, it is shown that the wave-induced wind stress increases rapidly with wave age, indicating that the traditional observations or analytic techniques have only given the turbulent Reynolds stress induced by short wind waves, but excluded the long-wave-induced wind stress. The latter constitutes a small fraction to the total wind stress when the wave age is smaller than 1.0. The increase of sea-surface roughness with wave age can be attributed to wave breaking.     

Modeling drift currents in a shallow basin with allowance for variations in tangential stresses induced by wind waves

A coupling model for calculating wind-driven currents and waves in a shallow basin with allowance for current-wave interactions is introduced. The model is constructed on the basis of the three-dimensional σ-coordinate model of currents [3] and the SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) spectral wave model [4]. The effect of waves on currents is taken into account in the coefficients of surface and bottom friction through roughness parameters. Results of combined modeling of stationary fields of currents and waves generated by spatially homogeneous wind are correlated with the corresponding results of separate modeling for a cylindrical basin of constant depth and the water area of Lake Donuzlav (the northwestern coast of the Crimea). The allowance for the effect of waves during calculation of tangential wind stresses in the model of currents is shown to be among major factors intensifying water circulation and forming spatial inhomogeneities of the vortex type. In addition, some cases of local decreases in tangential wind stresses are revealed; they appear when the lake is penetrated from the side of the open sea by relatively long waves, which significantly decrease the roughness of the water surface.     

基于MISR多角度光学遥感影像的海面风速估算实验

太阳耀光是来自粗糙海面的直接太阳反射光,其强度与海面粗糙度密切相关,而海面粗糙度主要受海面风场影响。因此,包含太阳耀光信息的光学遥感影像在海洋动力过程和海面风速探测中具有积极意义。本文利用2016年2月到2017年3月期间成像的25幅Terra卫星MISR(Multi-angle Imaging Spectro Radiometer)传感器的多角度遥感影像,分别提取了太阳的高度角和方位角、正视和后视影像的卫星观测角、方位角等信息,校正获得正视和后视影像的太阳耀光辐射强度,进一步反演海表面粗糙度信息,进而计算海面风速。最后利用ECMWF(European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts)的模式风速数据与反演获得的风速结果进行对比验证。结果表明,两者的相关系数较高(R=0.745),均方根误差和平均绝对偏差值分别为1.514 m·s^-1和1.319 m·s^-1。初步实验结果表明,利用MISR多角度光学遥感影像估算海表面风速是可行性的。     

Entropy of sea wave height field and its annual variation in Northwest Pacific Ocean

ＥｎｔｒｏｐｙｏｆｓｅａｗａｖｅｈｅｉｇｈｔｆｉｅｌｄａｎｄｉｔｓａｎｎｕａｌｖａｒｉａｔｉｏｎｉｎＮｏｒｔｈｗｅｓｔＰａｃｉｆｉｃＯｃｅａｎＳｕｎＦｕａｎｄＧｕｏＰｅｉｆａｎｇ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ６，１９９５；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＯｃｔｏｂ...     

用陆地卫星─5近红外图像观测胶州湾海况

对海洋上空卫星测得的近红外波段辐射所反映的信息进行理论分析，表明卫星近红外波段图像上反映的是海况信息。1986年11月5日陆地卫星TM6图像显示胶州湾海表温度的波状分布，TM2，TM3，TM4波段彩色合成图显示胶州湾的悬浮泥沙含量分布和泥沙运动。TM4图像显示在海洋波动和风力作用下的海况，并用实测潮汐资料、气象信息解译胶州湾海况。在胶州湾中、西部，悬浮泥沙含量较高，而TM4波段辐射值较低，图像阴暗，较高的泥沙含量并没有提高TM4波段的辐射值。胶州湾东部，悬浮泥沙含量较低，而TM4波段辐射值较高，图像明亮。TM4波段辐射值并不反映泥沙含量和海底深度，它们仅提供海洋表面粗糙度或海况信息。     

Water-temperature effect on the spectral density of wind gravity waves and on sea-surface roughness

The results of hourly measurements of sea roughness and hydrometeorological parameters, which were automatically taken from special buoys over a long period of time, were used. These buoys were located in the open regions of both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans in different climatic zones; the mean water-surface temperature around the buoys varies from 1–3°C to 26–28°C. In addition to measurement results, the tables contain data on the spectral density of sea roughness for a wide range of frequencies. An analysis of these data, which was made for a short-wave region of the wind-wave spectrum, for the first time revealed a noticeable watertemperature dependence of the spectral density of wind waves within the frequency range 0.30–0.40 Hz, which corresponds to wave lengths of 9-4 m. The presence of such dependence is explained by a rapid temperature change in kinematic sea-water viscosity. Earlier, we indicated the temperature dependence of only very short spectral components that relate to a centimetric wavelength range. The statistical significance of the watertemperature effect on the spectral density of waves of the indicated frequency is supported by the results of a variance analysis. Temperature variations in the parameter of sea-surface roughness, which is determined, first of all, by the energy of the spectral shortwave region, are estimated. Altimetry is the basic method which is used in remotely determining the velocity of near-water wind. This method allows one to obtain records of deviations of the sea surface from the geoid surface and to calculate (on the basis of these records) the spectral density of wave components of almost any frequency. It is known that the wave-spectrum components in the region of low frequencies are almost always affected by ripple. Consequently, the energy of these components is determined not only by wind forcing, and only the components in the range of frequencies exceeding approximately 0.3 Hz are purely windy. Therefore, using the results of sea-surface altimetry in order to determine the velocity of near-water wind, one should use the spectral densities of wave components in this frequency region. The water-temperature dependence of the spectral density of short wind waves is manifested only in a certain frequency interval, which supports this recommendation.